An old fashioned quill and ink
Laser cutting inspiration:
My love for writing is deep enough to make me think of dreaming to own a quill and simple ink to write with people in the past that originally wrote multitudes of novels I still didn't even read more than two or three books.
Instead of making myself a real quill, I decided to laser cut a chosen design to alter and turn into a bookmark.
This bookmark will be used to only read classic novels, because I sort my bookmarks into genres and types of books or novels.
I've always wanted to own a squirrel since I was nearly seven, and I don't remember why. Maybe it was because of some fictional cartoon I was watching. Growing older I can still call a squirrel my ultimately favourite animal.
If I can't own a real squirrel, why can't I have a 3D- printed one?
Laser cutting:
The software used is RDWorksV8. Plywood of 3mm "4 layers" (First picture on the right for plywood with the software icon).
The used machine is a proudly made in Egypt laser cutting machine El Malky ML149 Laser Cutter which operates by CO2 fumes that ionize into the laser beam.
3D printing:
The software should've been Cura's latest version, but because my laptop is a bit outdated, so I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1. PLA (Polylactic Acid) filaments are used in Prusa MK3 3D Printer.
Swipe for the used machines, materials and softwares
Laser cutting
Title of Media
Step one:
I downloaded the design via 3axis, and I needed to convert the file format from cdr to dxf as RDWorks supports only files with the extension dxf (Drawing Exchange Format)
Step two:
I only kept the design I wanted by selecting and deleting the other unnecessary designs. There aren't any extra lines to be deleted. I didn't change the dimensions, because they seemed suitable for a bookmark. Moving the design right close to the origin point is crucial, because I'm not ready to waste the tiniest bit of wood as much as I can.
Step three:
I changed the parameters somehow to suit the functions that I need the laser to do (cut and scan), and they're illustrated through the two pictures below.
The first picture is for the cutting parameters, and the other one is for the engraving parameters.
Step four:
I hope I'm risking that decision, but I think this is what I need to do through this Diploma - To be bolder and more fearless when it comes to trying something new. I decided to change the design in the picture and not to cut the parts within the design, because that will waste wooden parts and I didn't like that, neither I liked it with that much of spaces. I wanted to change it a bit and make those parts more dimensional (I guess this is 2.5 D I'm not sure)
This is risky indeed, because I applied what I imagined, and I'll try to attach a drawing whenever I can.
Step five:
Here, I hesitated to speed-cut the parts within or to double engrave the whole figure, for multiple reasons: 1) I haven't used a laser printer before, so if I'm taking the risk I need to think well. 2) In the past session, they mentioned a rule of double engraving to have some sort of protrusions and higher parts.
After what lasted longer than half an hour, I decided to double-engrave the design (left).
Step six:
Facing another problem, I tried to find a way to scan it all without losing the outline to cut it all out of the plywood sheet. Copying the outline, I tried to re-size it to provide another one for cutting it.
Step seven:
Finally, the last confusing decision I needed to take was how to fit the outline around the design itself without much spaces and without overlapping lines.
3D Printing
Step one
After downloading the file, it was somehow easier to modify than the laser-cutting file. I changed the scale to 75% first, with an infill of 20% and a layer height of 0.2mm. Then, I struggled somehow to decide if the design needed support or not. Also, I needed less grams and time.
Step two:
I tried to change the design's orientation, but it needed more support, as it would've been floating over the printer's bed. I tired to set only a brim (adhesion), but I was 20% sure it would work. I didn't like that orientation, because it required unnecessary support and more filaments.
Step three
Finally, I decided that I would downscale the size to 65% with less infill (10- 15%) and with only a brim without support because I thought first to add support for the tail, but I felt like the brim would hold it enough to be balanced, and it will use less time and materials.
Laser cutting:
Through the computer connected to the laser-cutting machine, I imported the file, checked that the speed and the power parameters were compatible with what I wanted and it only took about 1 minute to implement.
3D printing:
I replaced the original file I prepared with another file of a 3D bacteriophage, because the squirrel design had an issue, and thinking of a bacteriophage was also interesting as it relates to my profession. I scaled the size to 50%, the layer height was 0.2 mm, and the infill percentage was the default 20%.
Replacing the filament which was a different color with a silver one, preheating, and inserting the file didn't take more than 5 minutes, then, I made sure that the g-code was mine on the SD card, with the correct file name:
Waching the first layer of the brim, made it safer for me to leave the printer and check on it every 10 minutes.
This fabrication process took one hour and 15 minutes, less than the estimated fabrication time on Cura by a couple of minutes.
(The fabrication time of the bacteriophage alone was, but I was challenged to fabricate this with the 3D fabricated part for the assignment of week 2)
Honestly, what helped me the most was using my instructors' journals when they were students at Maker's Diploma. I took a quick scan of all the alumni's journals, and my own instructor's journal (Hala Gamal) helped so much to arrange the outline journaling - it's very neat Allahuma Barek.
Also, the journal of the other instructor of U4 team (Yahia Elariny), saved me when it came to setting up the parameters of both laser cutting and 3D printing, as he shared detailed parameters of every single step.
Through implementation, I faced an issue of changing the rld file into dxf to let the computer operate the process, and that wasn't possible, so I had to repeat everything I had done all over again inside the lab, which was frustrating.
The simple solution to that is that you shall always export your dxf file after using it through RDWorks to ai format so that any computer or laser cutting software can be able to export it to the laser cutting machine.
My final project will never be done without learning how to use 3D printers and laser-cutting machines. This week's knowledge is more than a first step into my final project.
Printing this teeny tiny dinosaur held my very first moment of enthusiasm infront of the 3D printer.