Inspiration
This week, I decided to design aviator glasses — because they’re the coolest thing ever. 😎
Why? Because they’ve always been cool. Tom Cruise flew jets in them. Brad Pitt basically lives in them. Jim Carrey made them weird (in the best possible way). And Johnny Bravo? He’s the legend of MBC3 — no explanation needed😂
Fusion 360
For 3D Modeling
Software Used: Fusion 360
I designed the model using Fusion 360, applying a parametric approach to define key dimensions and features. The solid modeling tools were used to create and modify the geometry with precision and flexibility.
For 3D Printing
Software Used: Ultimaker Cura
Printer Model: Prusa i3 Mk3/Mk3s
Material Used: PLA filament
I sliced the model using Ultimaker Cura, then uploaded the G-code to a Prusa i3 Mk3/Mk3s for printing, using PLA filament as the material.
Prusa i3 Mk3/Mk3s
El Malky ML149 CO₂ Laser Cutter
For Laser Cutting
Software Used: RDWorks
Printer Model: El Malky ML149 CO₂ Laser Cutter
Material Used: 3mm Plywood
I used RDWorks for design, the El Malky ML149 CO₂ Laser Cutter for cutting, and 3mm plywood as the material—it’s sturdy, clean to cut, and perfect for detailed designs.
Glasses Frame
First, I used Fusion 360 to create the 3D model. I began by sketching the design using lines, arcs, and other shapes, and made sure to define everything with accurate dimensions. Once the sketch was complete, I extruded it by 3mm, since we’ll be using 3mm wooden sheets for the frame.
I also kept in mind that the frame would be connected to the arms using an M3 bolt, so I added a 3mm hole for it. I made sure the placement wouldn’t distort the overall look of the glasses or make them visually awkward — just a clean, functional spot that keeps everything in place without ruining the vibe. 😎
Glasses Arm
For the arms of the glasses, I started by drawing two squares with different dimensions and used the Loft feature to connect them. The square near the frame is larger because it needs to hold the nut that connects the arms to the frame with the M3 bolt.
I also added a 2mm tolerance in both width and height for the nut space — just to be safe. Sometimes, due to printing errors, layer shifts, or support material, the nut might not fit perfectly, so I made sure to leave enough room.
The second square (the one at the end of the arm) is smaller since it goes behind the ears — and let’s be honest, no one wants giant, uncomfortable ear pieces. To make the design smoother and more wearable, I added 2mm fillets to remove any sharp edges.
I also kept standard dimensions in mind to make sure it fits well, and of course, I made sure the overall shape is appealing and cooool. 😎
Glasses Assembly
After modeling the parts, I created a separate assembly file to make sure everything was properly aligned. This helped me check that there would be no shifting or fitting issues when assembling the glasses in real life.
Once I confirmed the alignment, I added material textures to give it a realistic look — then finished it off with a nice render to bring the design to life.
For 3D Printing Preparation
I exported the model as an STL file, then used Ultimaker Cura to prepare it for printing with the following settings:
Layer Height: 0.2 mm
Infill: 10%
Adhesion: Enabled
Support: Normal – Everywhere
Estimated Weight: 9g
Estimated Print Time: 59 minutes
I also adjusted the heat settings based on the lab instructor’s recommendations.
Once everything was ready, I exported the .gcode file and copied it to the printer’s SD card — and it was ready to go!
For Laser Cutting Preparation
After exporting the glasses frame sketch as DXF format, I imported the file into RDWorks. I set the appropriate parameters for each line and adjusted the cutting settings to 25.0 for speed and 45 for power. Finally, I exported the design as a .PLT file and sent it to the El Malky ML149 CO₂ Laser Cutter for fabrication.
For Laser Cutting:
To implement the laser cutting part of the assignment, we first downloaded the design file to the laser machine and selected it from the interface. Before starting the cut, we made sure to attach the stabilizer and carefully adjust the distance between the laser head and the board—a small detail that makes a big difference in the final result.
Once everything was set up, we started the cutting process, and the machine followed the design precisely. After the piece was cut, I used brown spray paint to give it a more polished and finished look.
For 3D printing:
To start the implementation, we first exported the G-code for our design and copied it to the 3D printer’s SD card. After inserting the card into the printer, we selected the correct file from the menu.
Before hitting start, we made sure the printer bed was clean and clear of any debris. Once everything was set, we pressed Start, and the printer began working—building the design layer by layer based on the G-code instructions. In the end, we were able to see our digital model turned into a real, physical object.
It was a simple but satisfying process, especially seeing the final result take shape in front of us.
Final Product
One mistake I didn’t notice at first was that the glasses arm wasn’t touching the ground in the slicer view. This happened because of the way I used the Loft feature in the design — it created a slight gap underneath.
To fix this, I added Normal – Everywhere support so the arm would print properly and the layers wouldn’t collapse or misalign during printing. That small adjustment made a big difference in the final print quality.