Started By searching for the Scope Logo
My idea was simply a some kind like sniper glasses which half of it is a logo scope and other half is black glasses or eye cover
inspired by the challenge to design creative-looking glasses. I imagined a unique concept: one side styled like a closed eye, inspired by Nick Fury, and the other as a high-tech scope, similar to those seen in sci-fi movies or worn by characters like Deadshot.
Taking ideas of black glasses Styles for the design
After settling on the idea, I decided to split the design into two halves: one side would be a sleek, black eyeglass style, while the other would feature a sci-fi-inspired scope
I used paint as draft to note my measurements and hand-sketch my drawing to make it easier to make the model
I used Fusion 360 to model my design and to and make it at the final shape for exportation
after I exported the DXF files I used Laserwork to prepare the file for the laser cutting machine
after exporting STL files from fusion I used Ultimaker Cura to prepare files for 3D Printing making the slicing for the file
After preparing files as RLD extension I used the Laser Cutter to cut the sheets into the desired shape
I used the 3D printer for making arms of the glasses
The materials used to generate the glasses face
PLA is way too suitable for 3D printer and settings used for making arms model
I started with grafting the main circles
Then I used spline to make a curvature-detailed glasses
After exporting our Design as DXF we head to Laser Work to prepare it for fabrication
We orient it to the edges to the origin
I give colours too areas I want to cut , scan & Speed cut
I change parameter for black colour to sit at 80 Watt for cutting as lower than that cause the sheet not to be cut well
I set speed for black colour as 20
I set speed for red colour which is for scanning as 200
I set it's power as 65 as I want it Dark graving
I said it's value for can to make sure that it is for graving
For the blue colour I set it for Speed cut
I also set its power as 65
Now with all set I head to the file saving
If I want to see the results I click on simulation preview
By following the simulation to the end I see how the machine is going to cut the sheet
Then after connecting my laptop to the laser cutter machine I download the file on the machine by clicking on download
Now after all is ready and set for cutting I can head to fabrication process on the sheet
For the arms of the glasses, after exporting them as mesh STL format we head to Ultimaker Cura to slice them prepare them for 3D printing
We import files in STL format to slice
After importing we adjust the orientation and files position printing
We use the feature of move and port to adjust their location and orientation
We adjust both arms location and angle
After adjusting the suitable position we click on slice
For me as I as I wanted the less time I could get I change it the standard settings to the low quality settings
As an advice I took the two millimeter thickness of the arm would have no issue with 0 % filament
After sitting all the settings I head to preview
I check layers preview and get my slice result as 36 minutes
Finally I head to the file saving to save it LG code then copying it on the memory card and head for printing
Now after file is on Gcode format and we load it on memory card we head to printer to plug the card and start printing
For Laser Cutting
I connect Laptop to the machine via usb cable
I click on "download" on laser work after connecting laptop to machine
I click on Udisk+ using buttons
I copy my file to the machine memory by clicking "copy to mem"
I click on file button and click on my file using arrow buttons
Last i click "Run" and close the lid and watch my job getting done. like taken videos and photos below
Here my job finally getting fabricated by laser beam cutting 3mm wood sheets
to product the wooden front cut of the modeled glasses
After machine finishes scanning it proceeds the process of speed cut and after that the process of separating cut
For 3D Printer
I attach the memory card to the machine carrying the Gcode file
By rotating and clicking the main button i choose print when this screen appear
I choose my file from files screen by the main switching button
Then I follow and watch my job getting done and printed and in anticipation if thing happens
Watching the arm being printing by adding additional adhesion layer to the ground to avoid the last time printing mistake (The arm was unsticked during the print)
After a period of time we see that arm is half completed and supports start to show up
The arm is nearly done and adhesion and support are stuck to the arm to give the arm additional strength to avoid falses
After facing some problems on printing the 2 Arms were successfully printed Left one unsticked During printing so it was reprinted individually
And now we remove supports and adhesion layer and excess parts to get the part in its final shape and a good finish
And here comes the final shape of arms after printed
During excess areas removal
And here comes the final shape of Glasses
Yes , I asked Ahmed FabLab specialist for fastest settings I could set for getting printed results .I got very good time which was nearly 13 minutes for each arm after it was 50 minutes both.
also I asked Ahmed FabLab specialist for the most suitable power for machine to cut as it didn't cut at 65 watt, and I got the answer for making it 80 watt which was suitable .
I asked on How I could make dark grave as I wanted to make the grave in glasses more darker than usual and i wanted the suitable value without risking the file to burn , I got help form Ahmed FabLab specialist and I sat the value as 65 instead of 30 .
First wooden sheet couldn't get cut and the job made was still in the sheet , without being able to come out.
The technical solution was to set power as 80 as 75 and 65 were not enough for cutting
This was the advice Ahmed gave me when I was stuck and needed solution
Second Left arm separated from the bed while being printed and its print missed up
The technical solution was to add adhesion to make a thin part like arm maintain on printing bed till end
But before trying this solution me and Ahmed tried to fix the print by tape on its position many times as it was only few minutes for the print to finish but after these trails it didn't work and solution was adhesion layer on print settings
I learned how to use M3 screws to connect wooden parts with 3D-printed parts, and how to model the screw holes in both the wood and the print.
I found out that the adhesion layer reduces the final surface finish quality but also increases the bond strength between the print and the bed — so the choice depends on the print’s purpose and the desired finish quality.
I learned that 65 watts produces a very dark engraving.
I discovered that when designing screw holes for 3D printing, it’s important to slightly oversize them to compensate for shrinkage after cooling — for example, drawing a 3.3 mm hole if the final needed diameter is 3 mm.
All of this can be considerd in final project
The coolest thing this week was an extra session where we made origami and talked about documentation. It was a really fun and cool session , we folded an origami frog out of paper, and I also made an extra rocket.
It was a really really realllly enjoyable & funny session I really had fun in
Origami
In the hands-on session, we were tasked with making a reading bookmark shaped like a robot , with its head 3D-printed and its body laser-cut. We built it successfully, with the condition that the head could be attached to the body using M3 screws, and we made it work.
The whole robot was designed using fusion360 . Head was modeled then saved as STL mesh . and Body was 2D Sketched then exported as DXF.
Fabricating robot body on laser cutter
And to the final result and collapsing and joining the robot pieces
And to the Final Result after finishing joining and fixing parts