When it comes to ideas I usually prefer to imagine than just search for one, So I thought that it would be cool to make am elliptic shaped sun glasses, So I just opened the skitch and started to draw.
So, here is the story.
Software and Material used:
This week was a great learning phase, for a long time I thought it takes big effort and time to learn a modeling tool but this week just broke this idea, Fusion360 is a very useful/easy to learn tool.
I have never thought that the result will be that fast. here are the designs I make through the first session.
The material used in 3D fabrication is the PLA filament
And for the laser cutting a 3mm thickness Plywood.
Design and Preparations:
As I said I came with a random design I just imagined a shape and start working on fusion.
First things first when I opened fusion 360 I saved the project and set a defined name "cool glasses front" and make sure it is at the correct folder.Â
Note: this step is common with all projects.
Then I create a new skitch where I will draw the first shapes of the design, I must choose which plane I will start on.
By choosing the plane everything is ready to draw the shapes I want.
I designed the front part with "arc" and "ellipse" cause I wonted to avoid strait lines and avoid the headache of redefining all part after apply "trim", I started with the left side and applied "mirror" on a vertical line to get the right side, and simply connect them together.
Talking about dimensions I worked on averages as following:
lens width =39.5m
bridge width = 30mm "which a little bit longer than standards but I think it is a cool modification.
frame width = 133mm
The terminal part is very important, because it will be attached to the arms, So it is important to keep in mind the other part fit with the terminal, and make sure that the surrounds of the screw hole is thick enough so it wont break.
After making sure that every skitch part is fully defined it is time to use extrude feature to add 3mm thickness to the design to visualize it in a good way.
It is good to set the appearance of this part with right click on the Body icon then select "appearance".
With drag and drop the wooden material to the body it ended up like this:
Now it is time to export the design as ".dxf" to complete the preparation on RDWorks.
The next step is to import the DXF file in RDworks, to set up the parameters for the laser cut.
and these parameters are:
cut: speed= 40mm/s & power=60
speed cut :speed=350mm/s & power=13
scan: speed=300mm/s & power=20
Following the exact same steps of saving the file, create new skitch and choose a plane to start on, then here we go:
Starting with a rectangle and an arc as shown, I found that this is a good approach to the arms shape.
Dimensions set to the average:
total length =130mm
and a curvature of 40mm radius and 30mm normal length.
A 4mm extrude is applied to the rectangle to make the main body of the arm.
and all the way along the arc a sweep is giving a good shape to that part, now the main body is shown and its time for the real work.
By create a new skitch and select the front face of the arm as plane. "the one that attached to the front part of the glasses."
At the middle of the tip the exact arc of the terminal part of the front we designed before is sketched to make sure that both of them will fit together.
By applying "revolve" to the drown half, and make sure to choose the correct angle amount and direction(-180), and choose join to make it one part with the rest of the arm.
On the same skitch a (3.3mm) circle is drawn for the screw as exact the same position if the hole on the front side, and applying "extrude" to it will make a good hole if we set the correct parameters, make the cut at one side, and select "all" instead of "Distance" because the other side is not a flat surface.
By looking at the side view we notice that it is not the best fit for nut to be driven on a curved surface, so we need to make a suitable base for it, so we choose from "construct" menu " offset plane" and set a distance from another reference plane as shown.Â
3mm offset seems to be enough for the screw to hold.
On the new plane we create a new skitch and at the same center of the screw hole another 6.6mm hole is created, by drawing a circle of that skitch and apply "extrude" as done before, except setting a distance of the cut.
By this step the arm will function with no issues, but its good to add some edge elimination to make the design looks better.
Use "pipe" along the lower edge with 1.5mm diameter can make the edge more smooth.
I found it cool to just write my name on the arm side and this is done by adding new skitch the choose the plane and add a text.
To make the text readable, an 0.5mm extrude cut is applied to the text.
To make the other arm simply apply mirror and choose the body and the plane, and here is my second arm.
Pull the new arm next to the other and it is done.
It is good to set the appearance of these parts by with right click on the Body icon then select "appearance".
After choosing the right one "plastic" just drag and drop it to the part to make it look more realistic.
The design is ready to export, at STL format. all we need is to right click on the design body and select "save as mesh" then choose 'stl' format, and repeat for the second arm.
Open the 2 parts on "Cura" software and set parameters as learned before:
resolution =0.15mm
infill =40% to make it stronger but will check it with the Fablab specialist.
it will take 57mins and 2 grams of PLA.
For 3D part by click on "save to disk" and select the wanted path with a descriptive name like "yahya glasses 57min-6g" to the printer SD card.
In Prusa i3 MK3 UI all I need is to select the file and the machine will do the work.
the result was very satisfying.
For 2.5D part I imported the saved files to "RDworks" and make sure the cut, speed cut and scan lines are selected as desired then click on download and wait till it is done.
cut(speed= 40mm/s & power=60)
speed cut (speed=350mm/s & power=13)
scan(speed=300mm/s & power=20)
Now at the Elmalki laser cutter UI I select the file and set the origin and make sure the frame is in the sheet area then start the cut.
By connecting the parts with M3 screw & nuts the cool glasses is now ready.
The main challenge was the wrong approximation for the 2.5D parts dimensions, which caused it to break as shown.
With trial &error I found it better to scale the width up ta make it wearable.
As my graduation project consist of multiple part the knowledge of this concept is very useful.