The idea is a coin eater like the one mentioned in the examples but using a different michanizm. It is the first project with electric items so it so exciting.
In the reference video, When the coin touch the coin place it connects the circuit and runs a servo motor that is connected to the coin lid. My idea is to to the same methodology but using a DC motor and without arduino.
I used TinkerCad Circut to design the electronic circuit.
The material is MDF wood (2 mm thickness) as the main material for the enclosure as it will be more rigid than the cardboard and can hold the components properly.
Used a mini table saw to cut the sheet. and a drill to make the holes, some files, and a sanding page.
I did a simple sketch using pencil and paper and started with the enclosure.
Then prepared the place of the components, started to measure each component to make sure it will fit within the box.
I decided to use a 5V adapter as a power supply as I will light 2 LEDs that operate on 3.3V max. and one motor (up to 9V) but I will not use full force and speed of the motor so the 5V will be more than enough.
On TinkerCad added a 5V 2A power supply, 2 LEDs with different resistors - 1Kohm for the Red LED and 220 ohms for the yellow LED.
Added a switch and a touch button (instead of the coin button).
And finally tested the functionality by simulating the circuit as shown in the video.
TinkerCard simulation video.
Used a mini table saw to cut the MDF to the following pieces (12 cm x 8 cm) x 4 and (8 cm x 8 cm) x 2.
Used square pieces of pine wood to act as supporters for the assembly of the faces.
Added super glue to put the pieces together.
Made a precise cut for both the switch and the adapter.
Used the pieces of pinewood and pieces of metal to fix the female adapter jack to be tight and rigid and also to have the option to get it out of the project without damaging it. So that's why I didn't use hot glue or super glue.
Added the motor an elevated level using a piece of wood. also made an arm for the motor to hold the strip that will drive the flap.
Made the flap using a hinge and a rubber band to return the flab to the origin position. Connected the two female 2 male jumpers to paper clip to act as a switch when touched by the coin.
This is the top view of the box with the coin connector.
I did soldiered the resistor to the positive leg of LED directly and used jumpers and masking tap for easy connections.
Added the breadboard wiring and added the two LEDs in place.
Handling the wiring and all components positions.
And this was the output after assembly and, but wait :D it didn't work as expected...
The enclosure was so tiny for the inside mechanizm so the motor is getting jammed with the coin flap while in motion. So I had to extend the enclosure to get the task done in time :D and here it comes the ugly final version :|
Maker Diploma 22W - Dish Party
I did help "Katkout" Team during the RC battle by lending them, my controller :)
I asked my Instructor Amany about the differences between the colors of the LEDs and why I got my red LED to burn out. She told me that the Red needs higher resistance and the other colors work great with the 220 ohms.
We managed to play team-building activities during the Dish Party. It was amazing we helped the rest of the students to get to know each other and communicate in an efficient way.
I got stuck more than once this week, especially for liting the 7 sigmas or the RGB LED especially since I need a resistor for each LED and I did google the datasheet to know how it works.
I loved Tinkercad but I got stuck when my simulation was running and I did the same in real-life but I got a burned-out LED. So my instructor told us that TinkerCad is so idealistic so that's why there are some minor differences in the output.
During the assignment, I had to change the enclosure size after I have added everything so I managed to extend the enclosure using ice-cream sticks and cardboard.
Build it fast, build it to last.
I have learned that we have to work in a quick rhythm as we used to see things done in front of us and we think it is easy we can do it. but in real life, it takes much much longer than expected and you'll discover a problem that was not planned. So I will make use of that when building the final project.
I have learned about the H bridge method to reverse the motor direction and it was amazing as I didn't know that it is possible without a special board or IC.
We had our first makathon and RC fight during our end-of-week session and it was just awesome.
Hammer Head Team on duty.