Landing at Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino (FCO) Airport with more excitement than exhaustion, I grabbed an e-SIM near baggage claim and split a taxi with the other students for 50€ to our university accommodations. The Navona Queen Rooftop Hotel, situated beside the Biblioteca Vallicelliana, is a stone's throw away from the major tourist attractions like Piazza Navona but far enough that the streets around the hotel are quiet. Since we were early for check-in, we grabbed our first espresso across the street. As a coffee fiend, I was eagerly anticipating the chance to dive headfirst into the local coffee culture and try what the Romans call a shot of espresso, "caffè." It was Sunday, so some of us decided to hit the local flea markets, our first stop was the Porta Portese Market. It was gray and rainy as we strolled along the Tiber River and the landscape was doing its best impression of a moody Italian film. We got lost walking through Trastevere’s quiet streets; getting lost is somewhat of a personal tradition when I'm exploring a new city. It always reminds me of Michel de Certeau's essay, "Walking in the City." We got to Porta Portese just before it closed, doing a quick tour before it shuttered for the day. It started raining pretty badly on our way to Borghetto Flaminio Market. In a big raincoat and boots, the rain was deliciously refreshing for me. Borghetto Flaminio was smaller and had an entrance fee, but it felt more curated than Porta Portese. In search of warmth, we stumbled into Sensorio Coffee Lab for an aperitivo, drying off, and exchanging stories. Eventually, we circled back to the hotel for official check-in and I sneaked in a quick nap before the welcome dinner. We had dinner at Pizzeria Da Baffetto. After dinner, we went to Two Sizes for their infamous tiramisu, then walked towards Castel Sant'Angelo with Professor Pattuelli. Due to the early sunset in March, the sky was pitch-black and the castle was glowing like a enormous sun against the Italian night.

Our morning began with breakfast on the hotel's rooftop, offering a vista of sun-drenched terracotta colored buildings stacked on top of each other, while tall Italian trees loomed over the landscape, resembling little verdant clouds. In hindsight, a stronger coffee might have been a better choice to combat the jet lag, rather than a single cappuccino. Our first site visit was to MAXXI, the National Museum of XXI Century Arts in northern Rome. Although the museum was closed, we were treated to an insightful presentation by Dr. Giulia Pedace, Head of the MAXXI Art and Documentation Archives. I was particularly struck by the exhibitions they curated through the archive wall, which I think underscores the significance of archives in forging connections with the public. Post-lunch, wanting to walk off the pasta, Hannah and I chose to take the scenic route to the Spanish Steps from MAXXI, bypassing the van. Our afternoon passeggiata unfolded with an attempting to enter the private courtyard of the Roman Philharmonic, a stop at a record store specializing in House music, and sipping warm tea at Canova Tadolini amidst the sculptures - which eerily reminded me of the Weeping Angels from Doctor Who. My tea, named Belle Epoque, was warm and fruity. Curious, Hannah inquired about our waiter's favorite sculpture and he guided us to a majestic pair of wings on the second floor. Visiting the Keats-Shelley House was a highlight for me as a writer, truly inspiring. Capping off a day full of discovery and wandering, we strolled back to our hotel to prepare for dinner. Our dinner venue, Osteria da Fortunata, proved to be a great choice. We watching a woman skillfully roll dough and craft strands of pasta next to us which added a special touch to the meal. I savored my Amatriciana pasta dish and the day's activities. 

For our second site visit, we congregated in the lobby before setting off to the National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art (GNAM). We did a quick scan of the first floor galleries, punctuated by Cy Twombly's Second Voyage to Italy and my much-needed espresso break at the museum's coffee cart. We were privileged to meet Director of Archives Dr. Susanne Meuer and Archivist Dr. Tina Conte who provided an enlightening show-and-tell session on the treasures within their collections, followed by a brief tour of their reference library. The highlight was a love letter written by Italian actress Eleonora Duse to Italian poet Gabriele d’Annunzio. Lunch was a tramezzini on the museum steps, overlooking the serene Villa Borghese. It was finally a sunny day so Hannah, Grace, and I ventured into the park where we attempted 20 minutes of awkward rowing in the lake of the Tempio di Esculapio. We then meandered through the park, soaking in early spring. Our visit to MAXXI, had featured a video of an art show held in the parking lot of Villa Borghese, Parcheggio Saba Piazza di Spagna. Although we could only catch glimpses through the closed gates, the experience was memorable. I was very excited for the evening as I was able to convince everyone to go see an opera. We dined at Antica Bohéme, near the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, and were joined by other students who regaled us with tales of their day. Our night culminated at St. Paul's Within the Walls church, where we were treated to a performance of La Traviata. The rendition of "Brindisi", also known as "The Drinking Song", was particularly moving as it echoed in the stunning Anglican church. Opting to leave a tad early, we wandered through Rome's moody streets, eventually stumbling upon the Pantheon. Rome by night is my absolute favorite.

After breakfast on the hotel roof, we made our way to the Central Institute for Catalog and Documentation (ICCD) in the eclectic Trastevere neighborhood. We toured their exhibition space on the ground floor. During the ICCD presentation led by Head of Contemporary Photography Dr. Francesca Fabiani, the institute's artist residency program caught my particular interest, embodying the kinds of initiative I hope to work on in my career. I believe it's a creative way to invigorate the archives with fresh and diverse interpretations while supporting the next generation of artists. I found it particularly insightful that the residency culminates in the creation of an artist's book rather than a traditional catalogue. This approach seems to be far more stimulating for the artist and gives them an end goal in a project that otherwise has no guidelines. Post-visit, we explored Trastevere and paused at a local bakery for some Italian pastries including sfogliatella and zeppola. We drifted into Il Mangiadischi Roma Records and Radiation Records in pursuit of 70s Italian classics like from icon Dalida and stopped by a bookstore where I purchased an early 20th century edition of the complete works of Percy B. Shelley with a bookplate reading "School Library: English Ladies, Roma" and Miss Helen Campbell inscribed on the frontispiece. This neighborhood quickly claimed the title of my favorite neighborhood in Rome with its chill and bohemian atmosphere. Following an aperitivo at Bar San Calisto, we made our way toward the Roman Forum where we watched the sunset on the Piazza del Campidoglio. We stopped by a vintage shop and I purchased a pair of art deco earrings. That evening, we decided on a light dinner to balance out all the pasta we'd eaten.

Following our traditional breakfast routine, we embarked on a visit to the Franco Angeli Archive. We were welcomed by his daughter and President of Franco Angeli Foundation, Maria Angeli, and archivist Sibilla Panerai. The encounter was both enlightening and intimate, offering a personal glimpse into Maria Angeli's attempt to clean the art market of fakes and preserve her father's legacy. Post-visit, a small group of us ventured to Piazza Navona, where we dined at Camillo dal 1890. This meal, arguably my favorite meal of our trip, featured a great view of the popular piazza, perfect for people-watching in the warm weather. The cacio e pepe that I enjoyed was incredible. After a long lunch, we continued to Vatican City where we dedicated the next couple of hours to exploring the Vatican Museums. Though the vast collections made it impossible to see everything, I concentrated on the School of Athens and the Sistine Chapel. The experience was profound; amidst the silence imposed to preserve the sanctity of the Sistine Chapel, and despite the crowds - including some noisy French high school students - it was amazing to see such a well known art work to scale. I was really excited to see the School of Athens. During undergrad, when I was deep into philosophy, I developed a fascination with how the artwork paid homage to numerous pivotal thinkers and makers. I attempted it draw it at 20 years old and now, at 28, I got a chance to compare my subpar work with the real thing. We ended the day in Trastevere to watch a football match between Roma and Bristol at Birreria Trilussa. I love immersing myself in the local football culture, even though Bristol won. 

Our last day of the trip coincided with the Ides of March. Our group shared one last breakfast before embarking on our final site visit to the Elisabetta Catalano archive to meet Archive Director Dr. Aldo Enrico Ponis. This experience unexpectedly became the highlight of all the site visits because I was completely unfamiliar with Elisabetta Catalano. However, I was captivated by her extraordinary path as a photographer from film sets to performance art to high fashion and as a result the energy captured in her photographic work, specifically because of her incorporation of Italian modernist architecture, art, and sculpture in high fashion commercial photography. The introduction to the archive and their use of a custom-made FileMaker provided by her husband and two dedicated archivists was very insightful. Following the visit, we explored the historic Jewish neighborhood, pausing to indulge in pastries from a local bakery. The day culminated with our visit to the Largo di Torre Argentina, the very site of Julius Caesar's assassination. We were their to witness a scheduled reenactment of his assassination which happens every year on the Ides of March. Hannah and I continued the day with some leisurely shopping, where I found the perfect peach chiffon scarf for my mother and fell madly in love with a strand of jade green pearls - my favorite treasure from the trip. The evening brought us to Trastevere for a final aperitivo, complete with a DJ set at a local record store that had people gathered and mingled in the streets. For our farewell dinner, we each shared the story of our favorite souvenir from the trip. Before bed, I quickly packed my suitcase. While many of the students were making their way home or continuing their travels to other European cities, I decided to schedule an extra day for myself. 

I awoke early, prepared my bags for checkout, and ascended to the rooftop for a cappuccino. The tranquility of the once-bustling hotel and roof was striking. As the last guest remaining, the contrast to the usual morning flurry of activity was comical to me. I enjoyed my coffee taking in Rome's morning skyline for the last time and then took an Uber to my final accommodation in Rome. I should say, my love for travel is intertwined with a romantic passion for historic and boutique hotels, especially those with artistic or literary significance. In my quick search, I discovered Hotel Locarno, nestled by the Piazza del Popolo, which echoed the allure of the 1920s (my favorite decade). There are many stories about the hotel that convinced me to book a room for a night. Alberto Moravia, Elsa Morante, Federico Fellini and other artists were regulars at the bar, while Roberto Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman allegedly met at the hotel during the filming of Stromboli. After I dropped off my luggage, I made my way to the Cimitero Acattolico to visit Keats' grave, listening Massimo Ranieri's "Perdere l'Amore" in my headphones as I walked along the Tiber. I stopping at Tram Depot for a takeaway espresso before entering the serene and leafy cemetery. I can spend hours wandering in rural garden style cemeteries like Highgate in London, Greenwood in Brooklyn, and Père Lachaise in Paris. Later, I picked up souvenirs for friends and enjoyed one final aperitivo at the storied Antico Caffè Greco, taking the time to reflect and journal. After returning to the hotel for some packing, I dined in the hotel bar and garden, writing until just past midnight, savoring my last moments in Rome.