Surf Forecasting Lab

The following 6 pieces of data are required to make an accurate surf forecast:

Wind Speed – Distance covered by the wind per unit of time

Duration (wind) – Time over which wind blows

Fetch – Distance over which the wind blows

Wave Decay – The amount of decrease in the size of swells as they move away from the storm center

Refraction – Bending of waves as they travel over an uneven ocean floor

Shoaling – Increase in wave height as the wave encounters shallower bottom

Weather Map January 24, 1998

Weather Map January 25, 1998

Weather Map January 26, 1998

Weather Map January 27, 1998

Buoy 51001 Data January 25-31, 1998

Surf Forecasting Glossary