Investigating Gem Cutting Apparatus Advancement in the Modern Era

Introduction

From ancient Greek and Roman cameo carving to Beyoncé’s Papillon ring, gemstones and jewelry have been used to convey a variety of messages over millennia. These pieces, which provide a window into the values of a people, would not have been possible without lapidaries’ craftsmanship. Human fascination with precious stones dates back thousands of years before the common era and endures today. A number of academic works analyze the use of precious stones and their attributed mystical qualities as are recorded in medieval texts and imagery. Fewer works focus on the different ways these precious stones were morphed into their recognizably human-altered shapes (e.g. Buettner, 2022). During a 2-week study abroad trip to London, England in January 2025, I studied examples of well-known gems and jewelry, didactic text instructions, and archived pictorial representations recording the basis of gem cutting practice. This research was conducted through consulting printed and archival material at the British Library, Wellcome Collection, London School of Economics, and British Museum. Additionally, by visiting museum artifacts on display at the British Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, Natural History Museum, and Ashmolean Museum. Considered together, the images and descriptions of lapidary machines from the mid sixteenth century to eighty years ago tell of devices utilizing all the same basic methods. Foot pedals, hand cranks, and eventually electronic motors power essentially the same spinning disc machine. Displays at the Victoria and Albert Museum and Ashmolean Museum showed increasingly complex gemstone designs which were achieved by advancing technology through the centuries. By studying the history of technological advancements in a particular trade, we can see how one machine has changed over time by incorporating inventions born of technological breakthroughs. While the foundations of this ancient craft remained relatively consistent over hundreds of years, the impact of major industrial revolutions is evident in the evolution of gem cutting apparatuses.   

Objectives and Methods

Objectives

To gain experience into archival research techniques

To investigate how technological advancements are seen in progressing gem cutting apparatuses

To connect finished lapidary products to the machinery likely used to create them

To spark appreciation for the interconnectedness of human history in the evolution of technology

Methods

Study Abroad in London, England from January 5-17th, 2025

Consulted printed and archival material at the British Library, Wellcome Collection, London School of Economics, and British Museum

Visited museum displays at the British Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, Natural History Museum, and Ashmolean Museum

Conclusions and Discussion

By studying the history of technological advancements in a particular trade, we can see how one machine has changed over time by incorporating inventions born of technological breakthroughs

While the foundations of this ancient craft remained relatively consistent over hundreds of years, the impact of major industrial revolutions is evident in the evolution of gem cutting apparatuses.    

Considering the history of this technology which produces time-honored relics, artifacts, and heirlooms allows us to further appreciate the far-reaching accomplishments of innovation and scientific interconnectedness.

Further Directions

Investigating the technological advancements that allowed for greater artistic expression may reveal societal and personal values of the past.

Regionally characteristic jewelry styles and methods may be used to trace historic and prehistoric trade routes.

NACE Competencies

Career and Self-Development

Display curiosity; seek out opportunities to learn.

Seek and embrace development opportunities.

Critical Thinking

Identify and respond to needs based upon an understanding of situational context and logical analysis of relevant information. 

Gather and analyze information from a diverse set of sources and individuals to fully understand a problem.

Technology

Understand and leverage technologies ethically to enhance efficiencies, complete tasks, and accomplish goals.

Navigate change and be open to learning new technologies.

Works Cited and Acknowledgements

Works Cited

Buettner, Brigitte. The Mineral and the Visual: Precious Stones in Medieval Secular Culture. The Pennsylvania State University Press, 2022 

Kitching, Joseph. Coronet and Case. Victoria & Albert Museum, Jewellry. M.20:1, 2-2017 

necklace. ca. 3rd century CE. British Museum, Greek and Roman. 1917,0601.2749

Necklace. ca. 1850. Victoria & Albert Museum, Jewellry. M. 89-1951 

Spiro, Glenn. Papillon. 2014. Victoria & Albert Museum, Jewellry. M.1-2018

Acknowledgements

Precious gems were by nature only afforded and collected by the affluent who could pay for lapidary work likely done by a specialist

The preserved and curated artifacts presented here are not an exhaustive list of lapidary methods and styles.

I would like to thank Dr. Kimberly Hamlin for her guidance and support throughout this two-week research trip.