Availability refers to production and accessibility, and this page will focus on the two major sectors: makeup and hair. One, brands need to produce products with inclusivity and of a good quality for people with darker skin tones and/or Type 4 hair. Two, these products need to be equally accessible to African-Americans as products are to people of lighter skin and/or with straighter hair.
The following list is a list of terms one needs to be familiar with in order to understand the relationship between colorism and the availability of makeup products.
Foundation: A pigmented product applied to the entire face. There are different shades of foundation produced based on one’s skin tone and different amounts of coverage. Foundation can come in several different forms, including liquid, powder, stick, and tinted moisturizer.
Concealer: A pigmented product with different shades based on one’s skin tone that is only applied to areas of the face that the person wants to cover up, such as dark circles.
Blush: A product with different shades of red and pink that is added to the cheeks.
Lipstick: A pigmented product applied to the lips that comes in a range of colors.
Undertone: Skin tone beneath visible color of skin. There are three undertones: cool, neutral, and warm. Undertones never change and are important to having the correct shade of makeup.
Historically and even today, brands focus on the ideal of white beauty and believe that by focusing on people of color, such as African-Americans, business will decline. As recent as the last few decades of the 20th century, there has not been enough shades for dark-skinned people. Many have had to combine multiple foundations in order to match their skin tone. For fashion shows and photo shoots, makeup for models with darker skin tones was provided by the models themselves. There has also been the idea of brands that when deeper shades are created, they are not purchased as much compared to lighter shades, which is false. In 2017, Rihanna, a famous singer, created her own beauty company called Fenty. The company acquired the motto "Beauty for All" and developed the Pro Filt'r Foundation with 40 shades. The first shades to be purchased the most were the deepest shades.
The diverse shade range targeted women of color, as the largest consumers of Fenty’s product became African-American and Latina females. Also, one albino woman stated that she appreciated being able to find a shade that fit her skin tone and undertone.
Rihanna started a domino effect called the Fenty Effect. The minimum amount of shades expected from any beauty brand became 40. High-end and drugstore brands are now following this expectation, and some brands are making even more than 40. Fenty is not the first beauty company with a wide range of shades, as in the 1990s there were businesses developed such as Iman Cosmetics (created by the famous supermodel Iman) and MAC. However, Fenty has been one of the first brands to have an immense impact on the makeup industry. In the modeling industry, there has been more improvement in regards to providing women of color with products for their skin tones, but many are still faced with having to provide products and stylists who are unaware of how to style their makeup or hair.
One challenge African-Americans face is brands not creating deeper shades. Despite the Fenty Effect and recent change in the makeup industry in 2017, many brands have and still continue to create more lighter shades and target lighter-skinned consumers. For instance in 2018, Tarte’s Shape Tape Foundation had ⅕ out of 15 total shades be deep shades, with 10 shades being created for online shopping only after criticism.
The formulas of all products in a foundation line are the same with the amount of each pigment, iron oxide yellow, iron oxide black, titanium dioxide (white), and iron oxide red, being different for each shade produced, yet brands are still not creating deeper shades. Also, when brands do create shades for darker skin tones, they are not formulating the shades well, for they do not pay the same amount of attention to undertones compared to lighter-skinned individuals. For instance, if the undertone is not correct the foundation can create an orange appearance of the skin, when there is more than needed of iron oxide red or yellow. Products with an apparent range of shades, including foundations and concealers, have been the focus of brands when trying to tackle colorism.
There are other makeup products that are not focused on, such as blush. There are less blush colors with attention to undertones. Lipstick is another product, as heavier colored lipsticks are required for people of color.
The second major challenge is having accessibility in stores to these makeup products created for darker skin tones. In smaller towns and rural areas, there is less accessibility to beauty products due to there being less stores, especially of beauty-specific and high-end stores. Not only are drugstores less difficult to find than a beauty store, the products they sell do not cost as much. But in drugstores there is less availability of these products than high-end retail stores. Drugstores display more of the shades for lighter-skinned than darker-skinned individuals, reducing the ability of African-Americans to be able to find their makeup in stores and can cause them to buy makeup online. Purchasing online makes it harder to find the correct shade and depending on the store, spend money to have it delivered. In Walgreens, for example, the types of products provided are at the discretion of the manager for each store, with the policy that they provide products using the population of the location and maximize the total space available for beauty products. However, it is difficult to monitor that all managers are following through with this policy.
Hair has always been an important part of African-American culture, but the use of products such as relaxers and the pursuit of straighter hair has harmed many African-Americans’ perception of hair. During the Civil Rights Movement, many women and men began showcasing their afro-textured hair to reclaim Black power, such as Angela Davis, giving birth to the natural hair movement. The natural hair movement started again in 2007 with a focus towards embracing the beauty of one’s self as opposed to the previous larger focus on politics. Refer to slides 4 and 5 on the "History and Psychology" webpage for more information about the natural hair movement!
Recently, there has been a shift towards increasing availability and focusing on all hair types, including Type 4 hair, within major brands such as Amika. Amika has started to promote their new slogan “All Hair is Welcome” by using a group of models with various hair types/styles and videos involving these models using their products. Along with Amika having more products for Type 3 and Type 4 hair and supporting stylists who are African-American, Suave has started their own eight product natural hair care line, and Dove has started one as well called Amplified Textures. Major companies are also trying to modify products or even buy Black hair care businesses. The change towards more diversity is small compared to the change in the makeup industry. The challenges of availability and the major issues of texturism and favoritism towards straighter hair are still prevalent within the hair care industry, but it is a stepping stone on the right path.
Though the recent natural hair movement has been helpful in helping Black people embrace their hair, one issue the movement has perpetuated is texturism. There is still favoritism towards having Type 3 hair and looser curls as opposed to Type 4 hair, and this favoritism is present in the general public and when products are advertised using models that do not have Type 4 hair. A 2017 study observed that “Black women still perceive a level of social stigma against textured hair” (Perception Institute). Many women with Type 4b and 4c hair are not able to achieve Type 3 hair, which they are perceiving as more beautiful and wanting instead, when they use the products models with Type 3 hair are advertising. People with Type 4 hair also try going to salons, such as the Red by Ruby Red Roots Salon in South Orange, New Jersey. A hairstylist at this salon noticed that women with Type 4 hair generally wanted either a blowout, twist-outs, or other styling methods to achieve looser curls.
This was the value of the Black hair care industry in 2018, and compared to other groups of people Black women spend nine times the amount in hair care. Why is the Black hair care industry valued at more than two billion dollars? The need for more products to maintain their hair, including oils, conditioning treatments, and more, along with the option of having several different hair styles that require their own maintenance, such as wigs and braids, are two of the causes.
Though the Black hair care industry is enormous, the deep-rooted prejudice in the beauty industry against Black hair types, especially Type 4 hair, still results in a lack of availability of products to the Black community. One challenge is hair care products are not as easily found in drugstores or at an affordable price compared to products for other hair types, as there are several products not formulated for hair of the Black community. A study conducted in 2017 observed that “one in four black women have difficulty finding products for their hair—more than half have not been able to find products for their hair” (Perception Institute). Not being provided with products causes many to have to try different products and spend more money before finding the right ones, along with look for products that will restore their hair from the harm the wrong products inflicted on it. The formulation of products is also a challenge. Black hair care products developed by companies have proven to be more harmful than the products developed for white women, for "a study conducted by analytics company Elsevier showed hair products marketed towards Black women contain higher percentages of endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs)” (Mamona).
Expansion of shade ranges and creation of products for natural hair are all to promote the true intentions of brands: equality, acceptance, and stopping colorism and texturism, or is it? There have been instances where companies have created more diverse beauty products due to trends at the time, so many are concerned about the authenticity of brands now. They are afraid that diversity is solely to expand business, make money, and not face criticism in public. It is not enough to change the marketing or be part of the Fenty Effect. African-Americans yearn to experience a change that will not stop and be based out of true intentions. The Black community and people of color are championing together to fight against colorism by supporting brands such as Fenty who are breaking the barriers of colorism in the beauty industry.
One aspect of authenticity is having a diverse workforce. There are workers, such as makeup artists, hair stylists and store workers, who lack the knowledge to help African-American women who have darker skin tones or natural hair with finding products or receiving services. Most of all Black people and people of color, in general, in leadership positions allow companies to recognize how to fulfill to the needs of darker skinned individuals and individuals with Type 4 hair. The demographics of leadership positions and the workforce was disclosed by the companies themselves due to the #PullUpOrShutUp campaign. After the death of George Floyd, there were several protests during the spring of 2020 against police brutality as a part of the Black Lives Matter movement. Sharon Cutter, creator of Uoma Beauty, shared an Instagram post at the time of these protests. Underneath are posts of companies in response.