An old cathedral in rural Ghana.
“Religion is a tool of the colonizer.” This was a line I regularly used on my Mom in my attempts to get out of Sunday mass. It never worked.
But lately, this line comes to the front of my mind when I think back to the Fortresses of Death. It’s been three months since our trip and I still find it inconceivable that chapels were built above the dungeons. What were the logistics of worship? Did the colonizers still wear their Sunday best, perhaps with hats and fans to beat the heat? Did they sing their hymns as loud as they could, not to send praise to the heavens but to drown out the screams coming from the dungeons? Did they pause campaigns of sexual violence to read aloud from the Bible?
I’m not a religious person, but I don’t know how anyone could possibly practice their faith as murder, rape, and enslavement were happening right below their feet. The disconnect seems impossible to me. How do you divorce yourself from violence happening in the same building?
I know colonial powers strived to dehumanize the people they enslaved, and perhaps this is how they were able to worship. Or maybe they built the chapel in the fortress as a tool for absolution, intentionally creating a short walk from the dungeons to the altar. When it comes to asking for forgiveness, expediency has got to bring you one step closer to salvation, right?
Although they followed (very) long days, I didn’t mind the nightly debriefs. I enjoyed hearing how my fellow travellers experienced the trip in ways different from me. But there was one night where I was too drained by the conversation to really focus. It was when the discussion shifted to educating the public on the transatlantic slave trade.
I’ve been out of academia for almost five years now, and I think about racism in a very literal way. You have no choice when you’re confronted by cases of white supremacy in the justice sector on a daily basis. And while I am a big proponent of education, I wholeheartedly disagree that this is the silver bullet needed to combat racism. Working within the system has made me realize that awareness does not matter. Not even slightly.
In my opinion, education and training that raises awareness about racism is often a check-the-box activity that the lords in the boardrooms can put on an annual report or a commercial or, as I have frequently seen, a performance plan to justify their bonus.
I have seen people in a training session moved to tears as they learned about the horrors of colonial violence. Weeks later, I saw some of the same people questioning the calibre of educational institutions in the Global South as they advocated against hiring internationally trained employees.
At the end of the day, awareness is just awareness. It does not mean change.
Obviously the first step to dismantling systems of white supremacy is to name and understand the problem. But even if the whole world knew (and fully understood) the history of slavery and colonial violence, nothing will change unless there is a shift in power. Because racism is not built on ignorance. If it were, we could just plop folks down in a classroom and educate white supremacy out of the next generation.
Racism is built on power, and for it to end, that power needs to be redistributed. Wouldn’t it be great if that was built into performance plans?
Fortress of Death
Soaked in sweat and emotionally exhausted, I walked out of the Cape Coast Fortress of Death* feeling numb. I’ve always been overwhelmed by forts, but I suppose that’s the point. Large, imposing structures meant to intimidate potential invaders with cannons and strategically placed towers.
I left the site feeling sad and angry, unnerved by the stillness of a place with such a painful history of violence and displacement. But there was another feeling that I couldn't quite place.
It took me a few days to realize this feeling was guilt.
I realized why on my first day back at work as I looked up at my office, a large, imposing government building, and thought about the power it represents. As a public sector employee that works in the justice sector, I know that white supremacy is deeply entrenched within our society. This system allows for the criminalization of poverty, police violence, mass incarceration of Black, Indigenous and racialized bodies, and many others facets of racism. I understand systemic oppression and have trained people on the importance of equity in the workplace. I do this work hoping to influence the law makers and change the way people approach legislative changes, litigation, and policy making. The first step to dismantling the system is training, right? And at the end of the day, I work to serve the public.
But so did the governors, magistrates, and everyone else walking the upper levels of the fortress. They were working to bring wealth and comfort to the European public. While these elites may not have been in the dungeons holding chains or marching enslaved people onto ships, they allowed the system to flourish.
So where does that leave me in 2020? Is the fortress just an office tower now? Did those colonial powers offer prayers in the chapels in the same way that I preach the merits of bias awareness in boardrooms? Perhaps, but I doubt their litanies were punctuated by guilt.
* I know these structures are referred to as Slave Castles, but the word castle evokes romantic imagery from fairy tails for me. These spaces were incredibly violent, so I call them Fortresses of Death.
Sankofa Wall at the Diaspora African Forum Headquarters.
There was something so incredibly profound about the Sankofa Wall at the Diaspora African Forum Headquarters.
At its core, it was a memorial where people paid to have the names of their deceased relatives engraved on marble and placed on the wall. But it was so much more than just a commemoration of life. This was a way to honour your loved ones who were not able to return to Africa and feel the land of their ancestors. This was a way to bring them home.
Having traveled to Sri Lanka with my parents, I know how meaningful these moments can be when you experience them as a family. Having the opportunity to see and experience the land of my ancestors while learning about my own roots and history was overwhelming and beautiful. But I was heartbroken for my relatives that never made it back, and fearful that others would pass away before they had the chance to see their home one more time. That said, my family left just one generation ago, so belonging in their homeland was memory, not an abstract hope. There weren’t 400 years of displacement and violence.
The names on the Sankofa Wall represent all the people who were never able to experience the power of a homecoming after their ancestors were violently displaced. And while this loss seems so tragic, there’s beauty (and perhaps solace) in the future generations returning to their roots to memorialize these loved ones on African soil forever.
Charlestina Beach Resort.
This trip was always just a vacation for me. I didn’t go for academic credit, nor I was longing for a powerful homecoming experience. It was just a cool trip that checked off all my vacation must-haves: heat, food, and beach. Throw in museum visits, trips to historical sites, and hikes in a national park and it seemed like a no-brainer. Or so I thought.
With very few exceptions, most people thought I was going to Africa (the country, obviously) to do mission work like some type of Brown white saviour. When I said I was just going for vacation, the follow up question was always Why Ghana? Literally always. And for some reason, sharing my vacation must-haves of heat, food, and beach never quite sated people’s curiosity like it did when I shared why I was traveling to Cuba or Thailand.
Even after I came back and shared how amazing this trip was, people were still in disbelief. It was as though folks couldn’t comprehend how Ghana could possibly have air-conditioned hotel rooms, gated communities, and private schools. Perceptions of dry, dusty land were challenged by my descriptions of Kakum National Park and Aburi Botanical Gardens. Ideas of rural villages were countered by photos of our group in front of the I <3 Accra sign. Expectations of extreme and rampant poverty were undermined by stories of the Asante Palace, the multiple academic institutions we visited, and the malls and grocery stores we saw.
And that’s the cool thing about travel. It challenges stereotypes and forces us to confront expectations that are grounded in ignorance and racism. And while all the folks I talked to will not make the trip to experience these things for themselves, I’m hoping that sharing my stories will stop them from ever asking Why Ghana? again.
Charlestina Beach Resort.
Charlestina Beach Resort, Cape Coast, Ghana.
If you look closely, it's actually Charles (white) & Tina's (Black) Beach Resort, Elmina, Cape Coast, Ghana.
See how clever it is that they put the two names together to make one? Brilliant. Just like the couple they are.
Right off the bat, I'll admit that I really liked this place.
A lot.
From the individual 'cottages,' to the well-maintained grounds, to the food (shout out to the hibiscus juice at breakfast), to the beach access, to the fact that the resort was pretty-well brand new, I liked it.
A lot.
And highly recommend this family-run business to folks looking for a spot to stay in Cape Coast, Ghana.
But, I will admit that my adherence to euro-centric/white ideals of privilege is showing.
One reason I wanted us to stay in these 'higher-end' accommodations, was to impress our group and show them that 'Africa' had it all in terms of a luxurious all-inclusive beach vacation that rivals the (exploited) beaches of Cuba and the Dominican Republic.
Yes, I said it.
I wanted to 'show-off'' that Ghana has it too. And then some.
Do I feel guilty that I succumbed to the expectations of (relatively wealthy) tourists?
Hell no.
Do I feel guilty that I fed in to the global tourism phenomenon of taking money out of local and national economies to fill the coffers of MNCs?
Hell no.
FYI: Even though Charles is white, he and Tina have employed most of their (Black) family and folks looking for work in the surrounding area. And yes, I don't actually know where the money goes at the end of the day.
I wanted folks to see a different side of 'Africa' - one that rarely gets shown on our news cycles or social media feeds.
And if that meant I had to shower in a little bit of brown water?
So be it.
Getting on the Uprise Travel tour bus.
Written on April 9th, 2020.
I am writing this entry in early April 2020 and posted a photo from February 17, 2020.
If and when we look back at this photo in a few years, the dates might seem quite insignificant.
However, it is very important that I timestamp this entry.
Why?
I'm writing it at the height (beginning? middle?) of a global pandemic.
A pandemic where terms like "social distancing," "flatten the curve," "N95," and "speaking moistly" are entrenched in our daily (Canadian) vernacular.
So why this photo?
A key purpose of this trip was for us (i.e. the white folk on the trip) to understand our positionality and whiteness within white supremacist systems of oppression (or racist power through racist policies). We (I in particular) had some tense conversations about 'non-Blacks' engaging in 'Black' topics/history/discourses.
I wanted whites to not only understand their (white) privilege, but to feel it.
But how can I reposition (reimagine) this photo in the context of my own privilege?
There is a growing conversation (and rightfully so) on the dispropotionate impacts of this pandemic on Black people in the United States. And a growing conversation on the lack of information on the impacts of Blacks in Canada.
But what about all those folks that we met in Accra, Cape Coast, and Kumasi? Those whose livelihoods depend on a tourism industry that is practically non-existent?
What about the owner (and my friend) of the company that exceeded our wildest dreams, who is smiling in this photo? What about our driver who did a phenonemal job navigating the traffic-jammed streets of Accra so we could take a photo?
This is where I have to pause. And bring forward an intersectional mea culpa of my privilege as a member of the intelligentsia.
Yes, I am Black.
Yes, folks that look like me are dying at much higher rates due to this virus.
Yes, folks that look like me are risking their lives providing 'essential' services, so I can order groceries online and be 'safe.'
Yes, folks that look like me in Canada, and across the globe, are losing their jobs and livelihoods due to the economic fall-out of this pandemic.
But, like the (white) folks on this trip, I must sit with the fact that I'm living (and writing this post) in relative security.
I have a job (in two industries that typically weather the impacts of an economic downturn).
I can distance socially.
I can afford (literally and figuratively) to withstand a recession.
I am Black.
But...
...I will be okay.
I can't say the same for the happiest person in this photo.
Adinkara symbols on the palace gates in Kumasi.
"Except God."
"Supremacy of God."
Supremacy.
If you ever have a chance to go to Ghana, you will see this Adinkra Symbol pretty much on anything and everything.
A lot of Black folk in the Americas, might be familiar with the Sankofa symbol, which I personally use as a symbol to how I live my personal, professional, and academic lives (yes, plural, they are distinct).
There are many different interpretations, but for me Sankofa represents me using the past to inform/guide my present and future (what I defined as 'diachronic realites').
I learned about it the first time I was in Ghana in April 2019. Since then it's been at the forefront of my holistic (mind - body - soul) well-being.
But Gye Nyame never really hit me the same way.
As I've already written, I was never in a space that 'God' was something (someone?) that factored in my day-to-day moves.
That was until we went to the Manhyia Palace Museum in Kumasi.
It was here that I really got to learn the significance of the symbols and the Asante Kingdom.
It was here that I truly got to see, understand, and feel, pre-colonial (and Afro-centric) Black Power and Strength:
Blackness that wasn't inhibited by enslavement, colonization, or the negative codification of race and racism.
I fundamentally believe that Adinka Symbol teachings should be at the core of any and all curricula for Black kids in the Atlantic.
And no, I don't think it should go through the Ministry of Education - that will only pacify its power to fit white supremacist discourses.
It was here that I understood (and interpreted) Gye Nyame. An interpretation, I believe, should be one of the first things to be taught to all Black kids - and adults - in the Americas:
Unlike what we've been taught in schools, media, and throughout generations of white supremacist narratives, no human being/race is above us.
Pit stop
I think what typically happens when someone goes on a 'big trip,' they only want to remember/photo/document/describe/share all the 'cool' and exciting things that happened.
Which is dope.
No one wants to see photos of you at your all-inclusive hotel sitting on a toilet from food poisoning or putting aloes on your sunburn.
Well, maybe some people might get some kicks out of that, but for the rest of us? Not so much.
And ya, we see all the breathtaking landscape photos. The cool IGable poses. The 'I-took-10-tries-to-get-the-exact-selfie-I-wanted' photo.
But for me, I think the candid photos that are representative of the 'mundane' travels are the best.
And this photo sums up our trip to a T.
On the side of the road. On the way out of Kumasi. Eatng lunch.
Not so exciting, eh?
Mind you, this photo was taken about 20 minutes after some folks on the trip had a first time experience of peeing in a concrete hole in the ground/wall, but it sums up how we built our communitas.
It was a long bus ride (much longer than anyone expected). It was hot. Bellies were rumbling. Nerves were fraying.
But we all managed to chill out and have a nice lunch of quasi-lethal bone-in chicken kebabs, fried fish, and fried casava.
What makes this even more impactful? Especially as of May 2020?
How what we can think as mundane and take for granted - sharing food with a group of people - can shift in a matter of weeks.
For a very long time I always equated 'spiritual as religious' and 'religous as spiritual.'
I thought they were one and the same.
I grew up in a Christian (Anglican) home. I'm baptized, confirmed, and did the whole Sunday School life.
As I got older (and more informed/educated about the role of the Church in the enslavement of my ancestors), I drifted away from organized religion.
Well to be honest, I really demonized organized religion (the institution of the Christian Church, and its anti-Black ideologies, to be clear).
I began to emancipate myself from mental slavery.
Or so I thought.
It really came to a head when I first visited the Cape Coast Castle in April 2019.
Standing in the dungeon for enslaved men, right under the church that was built deliberately for my ancestors to 'seek' salvation in the white prayers above, my angst/anger washed over me like the tide of the Atlantic.
I was done.
But something interesting happened in that very moment. Something that I've been trying to articulate for the past year.
Something that again, came to a head in February 2020 at the Assin Manso Ancestral Slave River Site.
Something that I'm still trying to articulate.
Is that something, spirituality?
****
This was my first time visiting the site and I had no idea what to expect.
I thought it would be a quick stop on the way to Kumasi, take a few photos, bathroom break, and back on the bus.
I didn't realize this would be the morning that my life, one not bound by the years my physical body has existed in this world, would come full circle.
In this fleeting moment on the banks of a nearly dried river bed in Ghana, my mind, body, and soul - emphasis on soul - would be complete.
Almost complete.
After a fantastic and informative introduction to the site, our guide lead us on the very same path my ancestors walked for their baptism to years of phenotypic terrorism and generations of dehumanization.
He instructed that we now had the opportunity to wash ourselves (face and all) in the 'river' of last bath (pictured) followed by the river of 'return.'
I'll keep it real, the 'river' was the definition of infectious standing water. I looked in and thought, man, if I put any part of my body in it, I'm 100% getting sick. Not to mention I had a cut on my foot, so an infection was in quick order.
But something (spirituality? spirits?) swept my consciousness and said I must do it.
And after washing my face in the river of return, watching the gold flakes settle at the bottom of the current-less river, a calmness wrapped over decades of angst.
A (temporary) peace descended on my soul.
My spirit came full circle.
Almost.
Visiting a computer lab at SOS-Hermann Gmeiner International College, Tema
Since we had a number of educators (K-12 and post-secondary) on the trip, it was very important that we visited a school.
Mind you, I had my reservations of it being perceived as an exercise of colonial missionary work, so we treaded carefully.
Respectfully.
A Ghanaian student of mine at the University of Waterloo, an alumnus of SOS - Hermann Gmeiner International College, was kind enough to connect me with the administration.
I wasn't sure what to expect with this visit.
I figured the handful of teachers would come off the bus, chat with the school's Emotional Counsellor, Dr. Carol Mathias-O'chez, for a few minutes, and we would be back on the bus making our way out of Tema.
Oh, how I miscalculated this experience.
We had teachers chatting in French like long lost amis.
We had students sharing ideas on projects like it was a Tuesday afternoon lab in Waterloo.
And then got a chance to see the AppleLab.
While I understand that this International College is a (very) well-funded (quasi-private) institution, I thought it was very important for us to reimagine what we thought about all 'African' schools.
Ghana, particularly the Cape Coast, is the bastion of (colonial) education.
While this school, and lab, may not be representative of all educational institutions in the country, nor does this dismiss or discount the Afro-centric knowledge keeping that is woven within the fabric of West African society, it was very important that this one visit challenged the general view that we have of 'non-Western' (i.e. white) educational facilities.
And the students they produce.
Ones that can succeed and excel in Canadian institutions.
Cyriline Taylor on the beach near Charlestina Beach Resort.
On a clear, tropical day, we set out for the Charlestina Beach Resort.
It was a smooth ride along the main road. However, our final metres were on a bumpy, ‘under repairs’, roadway.
The entrance to the resort featured a variety of tropical plants. Gorgeous bougainvilleas, in a variety of colours, arched gracefully around the front entrance.
We were greeted by friendly,courteous attendants at the front office. Guests at the Charlestina were housed in semi detached villas, surrounded by tropical plants and shrubs. The coconut trees were an added touch.
Our rooms were well laid out with modern facilities and equipment. I was impressed with the layout of the main building, the upper and lower dining halls both looked out on to a long stretch of the Atlantic Ocean. A beach, great for swimming and sun-bathing ran parallel to the main building The landscaping was beautiful and the grounds were well kept. This setting was a taste of ‘African’ luxury.
It is interesting to note that the owners were a Black and white couple. Most of the workers on the compound were locals, many of whom were members of the same family.
No doubt, the villagers benefited economically from the resort.
Shopping for cloth.
Shopping experiences in the markets in Ghana were accompanied by constant haggling.
What a frenetic experience!
On every occasion, I felt bombarded and pressured. However, under the direction and support of our tour guides, we were able to obtain the purchases that were needed at prices that were reduced.
It was interesting to note that clothing and accessories were made from kente - always promoting the African culture.
Why were the vendors able to reduce the cost of their merchandise?
In some cases the reductions were substantial.
Since our group included educators at the primary, secondary and post-secondary levels of learning, it was appropriate to visit an educational institution.
We were greeted at the college by Dr. Carol Mathias-O’Chez, who was an emotional counsellor. We saw students at work in an Apple computer lab. There was also a well-equipped Art Room, where we were able to watch a student at work.
This school was equipped with ‘modern’ technology and all the amenities that help to secure a well-rounded education. These students would be well prepared for success in a western setting.
The visit to the school demonstrated that in Accra there was an opportunity to obtain a top class education.
Visiting a computer lab at SOS-Hermann Gmeiner International College, Tema
Getting on the Uprise Travel tour bus.
My visit to the Assin Manso Ancestral River Site was an emotional part of the trip.
Our guide Kwome Azuma, took us through a vivid walk to the river site. I was amazed to think that the enslaved people who had experienced such a long, harrowing journey still had strength and energy when they arrived at that spot.
It would have been interesting to know if the original captors accompanied these enslaved people all the way, or if there was a plan to hand them over to others at specific points on their journey.
I felt a sense of closeness when I touched the water. As I left the river through “the gate of return,” there was a feeling of hope.
Seeing the burial place of the enslaved African-American and the enslaved Jamaican really connected with me. I felt even more connected when Kwome Azuma informed us that the burial place under construction would hold the remains of an enslaved person from Barbados.
Cyriline Taylor at Cape Coast Castle, Ghana.
I approached the Cape Coast with a feeling of heightened anticipation and some fear.
Would it really be like what I had read about and what I had seen in movies?
Well it was and more.
On reflection, I wondered how the European countries could participate in such atrocities for four hundred years. No doubt, these masterminds of the Slave Trade were jockeying among themselves for economic and political supremacy.
With regard to the local slave captors: were they only thinking about their own gains as they rounded up their own people to sell them into captivity?
I believe that this enslaving of human beings would rank as one of the greatest crimes to persons in the African diaspora.
The view from the bedrooms of Cape Coast Castle.
Traveling to Ghana was a different experience of return for me.
Watching my fellow travelers and new friends return to Ghana as the ancestors of enslaved Africans, while I myself am an ancestor of their oppressors, afforded me the opportunity to confront my identity and history in a way that simply cannot be done in Canada. It also caused me to acknowledge a pain and discomfort I have been living with for a long time, one for which I previously had no outlet.
My paternal grandmother was born in Liverpool before WWII. She was descended from a man named Samuel Robinson, who spent his youth working on a slave vessel that operated out of the Gold Coast (Ghana). I have his memoirs, in which he recounts traveling to the very places I visited in February of this year, 220 years later. On my grandmother’s Danish side, she is related to the Heitman family, who owned sugar plantations in St. Croix. Going to Ghana, for my sister and I, meant seeing the consequence of our family’s survival and not being able to look away, as the generations before us have done.
When our guide said to the Black folk on the trip, “your ancestors survived so you could return,” for me, it meant, “your ancestors raped, murdered, and exploited, and you are still here.” To me, it was incredibly important to stand there and face that. Often in my mind, I am still standing there and facing that.
I left Cape Coast and Elmina wondering how many white travellers like myself and my sister allow themselves to feel any sort of connection to those dungeons. Do they simply brush it off as an interesting historical experience, the same way as going to a battlefield or a war memorial? I also wondered how I could process that experience without monopolizing the grief of that day. Those are still questions I am trying to answer.
Visiting Ghana was not a return trip for me, was not a return trip about me or my heritage. And yet, it still felt that by being there with my sister, the first of our family in 220 years, something significant was put into motion.
The Tree of Life
You will find depictions of the tree of life symbol in art galleries, photo shops, craft fairs and design stores but the authentic tree of life stands in the Aburi Botanical Gardens we visited in Accra, Ghana. This majestic tree takes pride of place in an open space in the gardens while most of the other species are organized in plotted gardens. The area surrounding this sculptured tree is, appropriately, open space for visitors to stop and rest, enjoy picnics, and allow children to run and play. Also sitting in this recreational space is a downed aircraft, decaying with age, but that’s a topic for another blog post. Hopefully, visitors relaxing in this area spend some time contemplating the wood carvings taking over the frame of this tree.
For me, the detailed carvings, rising from the ground, moving up to the sky, speak to the struggle by the African people to rise up, to survive, to overcome all the obstacles experienced throughout four centuries of cultural, economic and personal oppression. Look at their faces, see the legs straining to lift their bodies higher, one person reaching down to offer a hand to someone below. See the giraffe, the alligator, the iguana, the monkeys. All wildlife coexisting in the same space.
According to the information posted about this structure, the artist is unknown, so it is impossible to confirm their interpretation of this piece, but according to the saying, “art is in the eyes of the beholder and everyone will have their own interpretation”, this is what I see looking at this piece.
The acres of the Aburi Botanical Gardens exhibit hundreds of varied species, some native to Africa and some planted by visiting dignitaries, but if the garden contained only this tree of life it’s still worth the visit.
Our small talk in the bright, open, and white-walled Accra International Airport was to the sound of live jazz--“I’m Emma, I’m in the second year of my Bachelor of Arts undergrad, I’m majoring in Anthropology and minoring in History.” But why was I in Ghana? Well, because my interests and values brought me there. My values as my guiding force, and my interests piqued by aspects of my identity shaping my experiences, this felt like a big conversation for a group who just travelled for thirty hours. Not too big for here, however.
The more technical answer is that I was in Ghana for quasi anthropological fieldwork. It was an opportunity for me to practice core anthropological theory and method, such as ethnographic research, which catered to mine and my professor, Dr. Jennifer Long’s, interests in racism and whiteness. We would partake in guided Heritage Slave Trade Tourism (in anthropology we call this “participant observation”) and write about our experiences in a personal tale afterward (aka this blog).
In Anthropology we call a personal tale something a little different: an autoethnography. Autoethnographies are qualitative, focusing on first person writing to explore personal experiences in relation to greater social, cultural, and political meanings.
Welcome to my autoethnography, the subject? Me, a white Canadian woman analysing her relationship to spaces in the country of Ghana. The purpose? To critically analyse white identity in spaces with racial context through my experiences with physical and emotional feeling to what I hear, see, taste, smell, and touch.
After weeks of planning and reading in Critical Race Theory (CRT), Black Feminist Thought (BFT), and a little in Critical Whiteness Studies (CWS), we had arrived. The sticky Ghanaian heat which had my clothes clinging to my body the moment we walked off the plane reminded me of back home, in Edmonton, Alberta, about a week before.
I was in my local gym, nude and wrapped in a towel, sweating in a small steam room shared by another white woman. Our small talk was about the books we each were reading, mine being Homegoing by Yaa Gyasi provoking the conversation of my oncoming travels to Ghana. “Why are you going to Ghana?” she asked, shortly followed by “is it for volunteerism?” You see, this question served as a signal of this woman’s conceptualizations of the world. In order for you to understand what I mean, I must take you back in time and explain a bit of myself.
Stick around and you will learn about how I locate myself in this autoethnographic work, and why it is important to do so.
When you think of rural Alberta, what do you imagine? One word that comes to mind for me is homogeneity. I grew up in a rural Albertan town, population 7000. It was mostly white and Christian folks, and there was wealth from the oil and gas industry. My family was not wealthy, but we weren’t broke, either. I did start working at age 12 (How was this legal?), and it’s likely because being home wasn’t ideal. My parent’s marriage was on the outs, and my parents had struggles of their own. Oh yeah, and alcoholism and substance abuse runs in our family. But I fit in with the community. I was white, able-bodied, straight, gender conforming, and at least appeared as middle-class, of which most folks were. Despite the struggles at home, I could always leave them there because such visible aspects of my identity allowed me to blend in.
However, it is likely that because of my home-life and personal struggles, I was more inclined to see life outside of the norm, and to wonder at the validity of those norms. When my sibling came out of the closet when I was 14, my eyes opened to how one’s identity may have an impact on experiences. At the basis of who she was, I knew she belonged outside of the straight norm, and would be noticed for it. I knew that my experiences in that small-town would be much different for simply existing as straight woman than they would be for my gay sister. I began exploring feminism, I told my friends that using “gay” to describe something bad was inherently homophobic, and I rejected slut-shaming as an unfair double standard.
Still, up until I was twenty years old, I had no awareness of my whiteness. I may have seen identity on the basis of sexuality or gender, but my white privilege prevented me from seeing how one’s race shaped their experiences. I believed we lived in the best economic system, capitalism, because it allowed for individuals to work hard and reap the rewards. Our success was based on our merit. Racism existed, but racism was an act of blatant discrimination or violence that existed outside of my reality.
So had you asked me five years ago, and I would have assumed a white person travelling to Africa would be to volunteer there, too. I would have asked the same question as that woman in the steam room, not realizing that it indicated a racialized understanding of the world, a white understanding.
Fortunately, at the core of my developing worldview, no matter how exclusive at the time, was a belief in equality and inherent human rights. But was that enough? What I have learned since then is that my white worldview inevitably led to a clash of morals. My belief in equality and inherent human rights could not comfortably coexist with my white worldview. Without acknowledging how race matters, and has always mattered in the settler-state that is North America and in the rest of the world, my understanding of equality and inherent human rights would remain limited. A white worldview does not allow one to acknowledge that being white aids in your life chances and success, and thus access to equality and human rights.
I could tout gender equality all I wanted, but if I wasn’t willing to acknowledge how white woman earn more than their Black, Indigenous or Woman of Color (BIPOC) female counterparts, then I didn’t really believe in true gender equality, did I?
I would have to be actively anti-racist in all aspects of my life. But was that enough? In these posts, I will argue that it is not.
What is missing from this conversation are aspects of myself and anthropology which I believe were key to bringing me to a place where I was comfortable to be critical of my worldview, in order to help it grow and develop into one more inclusive: a deep desire to improve my mental health and emotional intelligence, and wellbeing.
Tune in to future blog posts to learn about the exciting ways in which trauma has helped develop my anti-racism. Ultimately, my interest in my emotional and psychological healing, in combination with my anti-racism efforts, came to a head in Ghana, and that’s what this autoethnography is REALLY about.
Pre-trip preparation is always a fun time. For all of January, Jenn and I debated what clothes to pack for our travels throughout Ghana. It wasn’t just the heat and mosquitos we were worried about, but how to NOT look like problematic white people in Africa. You might be surprised how quickly your wardrobe starts to resemble the exterminator from Jumanji (1995) when trying to find comfortable, cool and inconspicuous clothing for the heat and coverage. We knew we would stand out for being white, but we didn’t want to draw any more attention to ourselves with our clothing.
For me, a part of this deep concern for how my white identity might be perceived or impact harm on others can be drawn back to my desire for personal psychological improvement, and the first years in which I learned about anti-racism, which was namely through social media. For the purposes of this blog, I will refer to my online learning as “Mainstream Anti-Racism” or MAR for short. While learning MAR, I also began to learn about CRT, BFT, and CWS through school, which, it is my understanding that is theory of which much of MAR is drawn from. However, what I consider as the key difference, is the platform. I found MAR on social media, specifically Instagram. I read of theory from strangers online, essentially.
Before getting to the psychological, I want to tell a bit of my MAR learning journey.
I first encountered intersectional feminism for the first time on Instagram, which lead me to MAR, where I would learn of systematic and systemic racial inequality, and eventually white supremacy. White supremacy, as defined by anti-racist educator Layla F. Saad (2020), is:
“a racist ideology that is based upon the belief that white people are superior in many ways to people of other races and that therefore, white people should be dominant over other races. White supremacy is not just an attitude or a way of thinking. It also extends to how systems and institutions are structured to uphold this white dominance. (p. 12)”
Later and through anthropology at MacEwan University I learned that “race” as a concept was not biologically real. There is no scientific evidence to support the notion that within the human race there are sub-races. In fact, scientific evidence indicates that despite how different we may appear, our biological makeup is nearly exactly the same.
What I would later learn in my studies of history and anthropology, is that white supremacist ideology was at the foundation of much nation-building, and as such it still remains in place all over the world today. I could not believe it! Not only was the world structured by white supremacist ideas, but white supremacist ideas that were based on false science that everyone believed in without even realizing they believed in it. And that there were subdisciplines organized around the dismantling of white supremacy from academia and law (CRT, BFT, and CWs), surprised me even more.
My shock indicated my privilege. I had gone twenty years of my life not thinking about how my white skin shaped my experiences, yet pulling on racial stereotypes to understand BIPOC experiences. For folks who are racialized, that is, assumed a certain race based on their physical features or “identity markers,” they experience daily ways in which their race matters, and moreover is the reason for their being harmed.
After that, I didn’t just want to make myself a better person, then, but a better white person. I began to value self-awareness and self-criticism more and more.
My realization of my white privilege in academic work also marked a shift. The culmination of my knowledge both inside and outside of academia resulted in an epiphany moment: who I was didn’t just shape my experiences, it shaped how I accessed and retained knowledge. My education had been so white up until the moment social media allowed me access to the vastly diverse and complex marginalized voices, that I didn’t even realize there was a problem. Thankfully, Black, Indigenous and People of Colour (BIPOC) told me all about such problems.
What did it mean, if at the very basis of my knowledge, was my whiteness? Where else was my whiteness shaping me, without my knowing? Where else were other privileges shaping me, saving me, protecting me, helping me without my even knowing? I would have to be aware, all the time, and it would take practice but ultimately lead to good things.
This is why I grew to love anthropology, its basic component being self-reflexivity. Researchers in the discipline aim to first, display how their social interests brought them to their academic niche, and second, acknowledge how their social position and identity influence their findings (Hartigan, 2015, p. 198). As I learned about self-reflexivity I felt a sense of pride. I thought that this is something I had been trying to do for a long time, but on and psychological and personal level.
What I did not yet realize is how MAR and my self-improvement efforts would shape me in ways I only know through retrospection, of which the following posts will attempt to grapple with.
I do not want to undermine the valuable information which I learned through "Mainstream Anti-Racism" or MAR for short. I am who I am, and where I am, today because of it. I am so thankful that I had access to knowledge and perspectives white academia would have otherwise ignored. I was inspired by the strength and resilience, and diversity, of those I learned from online. I was willing to take a Race and Racism introductory course because of it, which led me to the anthropological discipline, and eventually to traveling to Ghana in hopes to better understand whiteness and contribute to a growing awareness and study of white identity, while being critical of ourselves and positionality in the work. However, looking back, I now see the MAR online space as unsafe, and thus unfit for genuine learning and growth.
What I saw through MAR online spaces was a lot of what they call “performative allyship.” This is where white people perform anti-racism online, whether through posts or stories, but display the same socialized white supremacist thought simultaneously. I saw the call-out of these white people, which often snow-balled into their pubic shaming, humiliation, and harassment.
Truthfully, this made me scared shitless. I resorted to silently observing and learning, while seeing how a white privileged mistake (albeit sometimes violent and rightly criticized) could turn into a solidification of a white person’s white supremacist thought, trapped by emotions or denial in perpetuating it in the first place.
As such, throughout my online learning, I fed the guilt and shame which had been festering since my youth. I was terrified of taking any course of action in case I turned out guilty, yet felt shamed by my inaction, understanding it as complicit white silence (Saad, 2020, p. 53). I had the knowledge of oppressive systems, but didn’t challenge other white folks who didn’t. I took this as a reminder that I might not ever be right. That as a white person in anti-racism spaces, I really needed to just shut up. Which is mostly true, we need to listen and learn. But in ignoring how I felt (which was unsafe) I allowed for my already present guilt and shame to metastasize. This is how my identity, as it came to my emotionality, shaped my experiences in Ghana in ways unexpected.
What follows is a hope to relay my experiences in Ghanaian spaces, sometimes historically meaningful, and sometimes public and open. I seek to draw my behaviour in said spaces back to MAR narratives, but also to criticize the ways in which my emotions lead to their misuse. I seek to look self-reflexively.
I write for other white folks who may be experiencing the same struggles in anti-racism work, but at the end of the day want to become better allies. I seek to be as genuine, self-aware, critical and compassionate toward myself and whiteness as possible. Nevertheless, it is my very whiteness that may inhibit me from noting my imbedded white supremacist thought as I write it, as even I am not immune to the powerful ways in which ideologies are socialized into us by greater forces. If you are not white, you may find this triggering or upsetting, so please take this as a content warning
In case you missed it, the end of my last blog wrapped up with a content warning. As the purpose of these posts are to dissect my whiteness, they could be triggering or infuriating to a Black, Indigenous or Person of Colour (BIPOC).
I wrote extensively about my experiences in Ghanaian spaces while centring my whiteness in relation to the space. I even wrote about the plane ride from Amsterdam to Accra, and how it was my first time being a minority on a flight. Was it a coincidence that on a mostly black occupied flight, that a white, Jesus-looking bearded fellow preached Christianity from the plane pulpit (I mean the open space next to the bathrooms)? I don’t think so.
I wondered deeply about how my whiteness shaped how I felt and interacted in said spaces, and I questioned every discomfort I felt or assumption I made without thinking. There was so much to dissect, and what I found was this repetitive thought process in which I identified a racist behaviour, classified it under MAR’s (Mainstream Anti-Racism's) racist typology, criticized myself for doing it despite knowing better, inheriting the shame and guilt associated with that, then moving on to the next racist behaviour. This loop was present from our first day in Ghana.
It was the first night we had sat together as a group after a day of touring. I had experienced black brilliance all that day, having visited W.E.B. Du Bois’ former home and now museum, the Diaspora African Forum, and an international elementary school. In learning of the Pan-African movement, and in Du Bois’ renouncing his US citizenship to return to Ghana, I felt inspired.
One of the members of our group had worn a shirt during our travel days which read something like “I am my ancestors wildest dreams,” of which a similar quote was printed on the cement wall, where members of the black diaspora had their names plaqued to mark their return home. It felt symbolic. The resilience and resistance was awe inspiring. But my thoughts had been spiralling: how much brilliance I, as a white person, was allowed to celebrate. There had to be a balance, right? I needed to also acknowledge my European ancestors efforts to stifle any resistance, to perpetuate violent white supremacy.
I did my best to be present that day despite my thoughts. I tried to feel the rooms where Du Bois once sat. I thought about my whiteness there, and what it meant. Did it mark a societal shift that Du Bois may have hoped for, where white people came to explore and acknowledge our shared history, while also acknowledging the truth of our role in that shared history?
Instead of bringing up this question, instead what I found myself doing that evening with our group was expressing the guilt I had carried that day, for the violence of the past and present. It wasn’t long before other BIPOC group members were saying that white folks should not feel guilty for the actions of their ancestors. This is an occurrence I had heard all about in online MAR spaces called white guilt. This is where a white person (me) expresses guilt in order to receive forgiveness from BIPOC, which requires some form of emotional labour on their end. I had watched many a white woman be shamed and ostracized in online spaces for this behaviour.
The thing is that, I felt I needed to say this, despite knowing exactly what I was doing. Why? Perhaps, more so for myself. I had never allowed myself to acknowledge this guilt I carried because I was taught that in expressing it I was a bad ally. But I had always felt it, and in ignoring it, it grew.
I think I felt safe there, with our mixed group, to finally say this and be heard. I was heard and met with compassion, of which I am grateful. While online, I had watched white folks be shamed ruthlessly for expressing their guilt, despite having no understanding of how their behaviour was problematic and harmful. Was I more violent for doing it with awareness? Possibly. I left the group discussion feeling shame for having asked it.
The truth was, and is, that I have always carried guilt and shame. Even before my involvement in MAR, guilt and shame had presented themselves in my life. I learned such emotions as natural responses to my existence as a kid. They have been the main forces which shape my behaviour. They are, in a sense, part of my identity. However, this is not something I had quite realized yet, and wouldn’t until a counselling session in early April.
Thus, what I didn’t recognize then was the small steps I was taking in the direction of my healing, however, at the expense of the BIPOC folks on our trip. I was acknowledging my feelings. This is something that going forward I know better than to do again in a space with BIPOC. But I had, in a sense, finally relieved myself from the guilt which had been effectively inhibiting my participation in meaningful and tangible anti-racism work.
I wrote about this in my journal, and as I had learned to do as a child, I found new guilt to carry. Instead of recognizing the opportunity to heal, I found shame in the expression of my guilt. Shame on me, I shouldn’t have involved BIPOC like that, indirectly requiring their forgiveness. I should have expressed it and found support in the white folks who may or may not have been feeling the same. This brought guilt, though I knew I shouldn’t be feeling it, because it was an unproductive emotion. Jenn and I had beat this dead horse in the past, guilt was not productive. But I felt it! And felt more guilt for feeling guilt in the first place!
This was despite having spent four years learning, being self-critical and aware to the best of my ability, and having Jenn by my side to hold me accountable. I had exactly what I needed to be a better ally, and yet there I was struggling.
The cycle of the conceptualization of my whiteness in Ghanaian spaces persisted throughout the week and presented itself in different ways.
It was the day of the “slave castles.” I felt a knot in the pit of my stomach that morning as our group sat together to share breakfast, anticipating the day’s events. Jenn had pulled all the white folks in the group aside before to let us know the plan: we would remain behind the black folks throughout our tours of the castles in effort to give them as much space as we could while still being present. Essentially, we wanted to take up as little space as possible, whether physically or otherwise, while being present in our learning and cognitive of our white relation to that space. This was in line with Jenn’s idea of seeking a “white adjacent space” where white folks could learn about racism and white supremacy alongside but also separate from BIPOC, hoping to decrease the chances of requiring BIPOC’s emotional labour or infringing on their homegoing.
Here’s a bit of what I wrote about my experiences at Cape Coast and Elmina Castle:
“I think in general, whether in the dungeons or by the point of no return, there was a certain numbness I felt throughout. In my head I was consciously trying to feel the space as it might have felt hundreds of years ago… I’m not sure that this was the best approach, as it was obviously impossible. Hearing the stories of the treatment is upsetting, but it’s also like I am climatized to it. I mostly was hyper aware of my taking up space as a white person, so much so that on top of being meditative I was unintentionally doing the opposite and worrying about where I was standing or walking in relation to the black people in the space.”
And then I posed the question:
“Is [the numbness] a limitation of whiteness, a passed down inability to relate to ancestral suffering of such a degree?”
The dungeons themselves felt claustrophobic, dense, and suffocating. The day was 35 degrees, and down in the dark between the black brick walls even hotter. As I listened to our guide I felt sweat drip from my ass to my ankle and the weight of the thick air on my skin. I thought of the people there who knew details of their ancestral lineage in relation to the history. There was emotion there for them because of it. Where was mine? Of course I knew what I should be feeling, but instead it was the tickle of my sweat that I noticed most.
After those moments and in discussion with the group later that night, I posed the question out loud to everyone. I had been thinking about it all day. I know nothing of my family heritage, of who my grandparents were, or their parents or grandparents. I have no connection to my past. Was it white people’s lack of knowing their heritage that creates an apathy toward the heritage of marginalized communities? Or was it a general apathy toward history, and disbelief that history is connected to our present? There was evidence of this in my upbringing, with the folks who wondered bravely aloud at “why Indigenous communities kept using the past as an excuse for their failures?” Was it a sort of intergenerational numbness, where my ancestors learned to numb themselves in order to commit their horrific acts? I tried to take a step back, to see my views from an anti-racism perspective.
MAR (Mainstream Anti-Racism) and academia had taught me that attributing racism to an inherent part of being white not only excused white folks for their learned racism, but undermined the long history of white supremacy as an intellectual idea (social Darwinism), to its fruition in global structures and institutions (capitalism), to its adoption in our culture as an underlying ideology. Was that not what I was doing? Attributing my numbness in such emotional spaces to something I had inherited held a level of ignorance and violence.
This idea proved more fragile when acknowledging that my, and our, privileges allow us to ignore historical truths even when presented to us on a platter. Coming home to poor over some CRT, where “thinking whitely” (Zimmerman and Guida 97) is explained as the “psychological evasiveness of whiteness, deeply rooted in a desire to maintain white racial superiority and dominance” I saw this as exactly what I was doing, whether intentional or not.
Perhaps there are ways we don’t understand human psychology, but the question as to whether I inherited numbness from my ancestors didn’t stand well against critical thought.
I believe it was Dr. Taylor who responded to my initial question, pointing out that my lack of connection to my heritage may be more personal to me than a universal white experience. Thus, the possibility of this idea holding any merit was confirmed as a me problem, and moreover as my problem with my racism.
His words triggered another thought, one that has stuck with me since and been and the basis of my writing and reflection. My personal issue, that is, a lack of family history, heritage, tradition, custom, all of which leaving me feeling a certain identity crisis, had influenced my experience as a white person in that space.
I connected this to the first day, where the guilt and shame already present in myself had projected into the relatively positive touring we did that day. It was another personal issue I had always grappled with presenting in my experiences. And yet, it somehow surpassed my effort to self-locate and describe my identity!
Despite the cyclical and seemingly unproductive thought processes I was experiencing, there was still much opportunity to learn and grow in other ways. Our travels every day did just this, and Jenn and I would fill some of our longer bus rides with chats about our whiteness as we had noticed it presenting in our relatedness to space.
While in and around Kumasi, a city located in central Ghana and home to the Asante people, I learned of their culture and history.
I wondered at how much Ghanaian cultures had been adapted for the white gaze in a tourist economy, and how much of their history was made more palatable to our Western worldview so that we would spend money. The same can be said for tourism around the world, where culture is performed and sold as part of a capitalist economy.
In the context of Ghana, where European’s came and then enslaved and sold the black body for profit hundreds of years ago, how did the meaning of a tourist economy change to reflect such a history? Ethnic groups who sell their culture often do so for livelihood, so the relationship between buyer and seller is at its core a power imbalance. The buyer, white or not, is exploiting a person and their economized culture for material gain. What if a buyer is a white European?
Add in there a globalized white supremacist societal framework undergirded by the ideology, and the power imbalance will increase. Groups or communities who sell their culture for the tourist economy may do so out of a desire to share, but how much more likely is it that they resorted to such a livelihood as a result of their countries economic ruin post-colonialism? And what does my participation in that economy mean? Can it be ethical?
This feeling felt further confirmed on one bus ride, where our tour guide, Mussah, told us about how the highly marketed and successful DNA testing for your genetic or ancestral makeup helped the tourist economy in Ghana. He said that many people on his tours did the test, found a percentage of their ancestral lineage Ghanaian, and made the choice to “return home.” I asked if this included white people, and he said most.
How villainously ironic is it that European’s colonized West Africa, enslaved black bodies to sell in the slave economy, earned massive amounts of wealth off of such while destroying the communities left behind, and when they no longer could reap the same profits, left the often devastated nations to fend for themselves, only for European descendants to return hundreds of years later on the premise of “getting in touch with their heritage” as per pseudoscience through buying African culture from an economy built on said ruins?
There is so much room for white shame and guilt in these conversations. Well, there was for me, and I wonder about other white people’s experiences. Perhaps it was because of my lack of cultural connection, that the first time I heard of my European ancestry was in their participation of a slave economy, in creating social Darwinism, in building Western knowledge which centred the white experience and excluded others, in building an economy that exploited land and people and women and children. I wasn’t proud, I was ashamed and sad. And such feelings only exasperated my guilt and shame further.
The truth is that despite all of my learning and efforts to continue such, I will not be able to approach anti-racism work productively and without harming the BIPOC involved without first prioritizing myself, and more importantly my healing. In a sense, emotions such and shame and guilt were shaping my relation to spaces and people, and to societal and historical knowledge.
I believe this became evident, and eventually unignorable in my experiences in Ghana. My knowledge allowed me to identify any harmful behavior I exhibited, but my guilt in perpetuating harmful, or at least unproductive, behaviors toward issues of racism and white supremacy prevented my forward moving. Instead, I nearly obsessed over the details of my actions, putting them on repeat in my brain.
I was constantly hyperaware of how much space I took up, so much so that I felt undeserving of taking up any. I missed important information in my concern for how I both physically and verbally existed.
I sought temporary relief in the expression of my guilt.
I sought concrete answers for the source of white racism, coming in the form of questions like “did white people inherit the numbness from a lineage of ancestors who had not yet acknowledged the reality of racism and white supremacist violence?”
I was stuck in an endless cycle of which I was the only one to blame. I thought I must have missed the part in Mainstream Anti-Racism (MAR) where they teach you how to surpass this cycle.
I came home and thought I would dedicate my time to more MAR, that there I would find the answers. Then, I went to counselling.
The truth was that I need to centre myself in order to properly heal. Not in anti-racism work, but personally. If I had any emotional issues, I would not be able to do MAR tools to dismantle or dissect my racist behaviors and make change. I had to acknowledge and work through my problems, and essentially centre myself, in order to come back to anti-racism work with headspace in which I could set emotional boundaries with the harsh and heavy realities of white supremacy, in order to remain productive and effective.
I have grown to believe that many Mainstream Anti-Racism (MAR) online spaces can be toxic and ineffective in helping white people deal with their racism. This is not to say that Black, Indigenous and People of Colour’s reactions to white racism are unfounded. However, when white people who are called-out and publicly shamed for being racist, what if they suffer from mental health issues? I can’t imagine how they would possibly and magically see through their racism, overcome it, and become a better person through such a dynamic. What I can imagine is their doubling down on their white supremacist ideology.
It is important to acknowledge the reality of online anti-racism as a space of learning. Social media has proven a revolutionary tool for marginalized voices to be empowered and heard. This means that more and more white people are being confronted with a narrative which challenges their colour blind existence, where race has never mattered. What happens when white folks go into MAR online spaces with the baggage of their mental health issues? Read the comment sections and you will know.
I wonder how this fits in with Jenn’s idea of a “white adjacent space.” Perhaps this is the space where white folks can centre their emotional relation to their anti-racism work. They can learn about issues of race, racism, and white supremacy at societal levels somewhere that holds space for their individual emotions of which such learning provokes. By separating ourselves, we avoid harming the BIPOC, who understandably should not be asked to hold the capacity, patience, or strength to make space for white emotions of their racism. In remaining adjacent, we avoid falling back into a white worldview.
I see now that in every turn I took, my mental health issues were right there and ready to greet me. How would I miss this in a discipline and area of knowledge which centres identity epistemologically? My guilt and shame, very individual emotions, were interacting with my understandings of societal, or collective, workings.
Critical Race Theory, BFT, Critical Whiteness Studies, and MAR all tell us to locate ourselves in the work. We are asked to identify how our physical identity shapes our lives, whether through our skin colour, gender, ability, eye shape, hair texture, or dress influence others perceptions and relations to us, and in our relation to them and the spaces we are in. We are asked to identify our identity in relation to our history and the present, in our home, at work, at school, and in public spaces, and in greater society.
But not once do we think to ask how we might need to help ourselves, first. How many people do you know who cross your boundaries? Who don’t establish their own boundaries? Who don’t understand boundaries? Who let people cross their boundaries every day? How many people do you know who can’t talk about their feelings without getting angry? Who can’t foster emotional connections? Who run from commitment? Who project their insecurities through the judgement of others? Who are unwilling to listen to criticism? Who are stubborn? Who are scared? Who are unwilling to be themselves?
Everyone knows someone, and everyone is someone.
How can we ask white people to be introspective and acknowledging of their racism, without acknowledging the personal work required to create a head space where we can think critically of ourselves and of society? Without doing so, is it possible that we will somehow project our personal struggles into our anti-racism efforts in a way that will lead to harming BIPOC? Is that what has already been happening?
I think that as white women we must be willing to change and grow if we’re going create tangible anti-racism change. We must be open to introspection, reflection, and criticism. And most of all, we must be compassionate toward ourselves and others. Without compassion, the weight of our struggles and mistakes can become too much to bear, and shift into devious forms like guilt or shame, and believe me, those emotions won’t get you anywhere. And we cannot expect BIPOC to hold compassion for us. If we are willing to acknowledge our emotional relationality to anti-racism, then we must acknowledge how those on the receiving end of racism might experience white people in anti-racism spaces.
Going forward, I look forward to exploring how anthropological knowledge regarding social relations might be incorporated with the emotional response of guilt and shame.
If anyone is familiar with any overlap between anthropology and psychology, I would be very interested to hear more!
But I heed Jenn’s warning, and hope others would do the same. Psychology as a discipline is that of Western science, carrying with it the weight of colonial, patriarchal, and capitalist thought
This trip was a surprise to me. That is, in mid-2019, I did not expect or dream of going to Ghana. I was unaware that 2019 was the Year of Return (and homecoming) to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the arrival of the first recorded enslaved Africans to the United States.
You see, I had already 'gone home'. While I currently reside in Treaty 6 - Amiskwaciwâskahikan (ᐊᒥᐢᑲᐧᒋᐋᐧᐢᑲᐦᐃᑲᐣ ) - aka. Edmonton, I had previously travelled to the Netherlands - my ancestral home - to conduct my doctoral research on the role of Islamophobia in crafting narratives of national belonging. While in the Netherlands, I read about their (that is, my) colonial heritage. It was not surprising to learn about this colonial history because I had read about the exploits of the Dutch West India Company before. I had already I learned that the Dutch were one of the last European countries to abolish slavery (link). And yet, I still distanced myself from the horrific project of enslavement, and instead, chose to compartmentalize and blur its significance as part of 'the evils of history'. This aligns with Dr. Artwell Cain's description of white Dutch folks who are ignorant of their colonial past, and who lack of willingness to learn about it (HIA, 2014).
I took a similar approach to understanding colonialism in Canada. As a white woman settler, living in Canadian, colonialism was something that up until that point, I thought about abstractly or explored in theory. If and when I visited its contemporary legacy, I did so with a comfortable distance from my own daily practice and self-reflection (see framing posts on our home page for more information here).
There are so many privileges in these last two paragraphs. And while I feel shame, guilt, and embarrassment - I have also come to better understand the role of whiteness in shaping me and Canadian institutions; for example, how whiteness is ignored/left unacknowledged in Canada that results in a collective forgetting of the legacy of white settler colonialism.
At the outset of this trip, I understood that I could only learn about the experiences of racism and colonialism through the labour and at the emotional expense of other racialized travelers - particularly burdening Black travelers.
Nobody wants to feel this way. I don't want to think of this transformative, life-changing (I'm not exaggerating) experience in such parasitic terms, but it is the truth. Regardless of my intent to learn, to change, to act differently, the impact of my learning came at the expense and generosity of others.
There were so many spaces and conversations where I did not feel comfortable on this trip. And why should I feel comfortable? Learning about enslavement (and slavery heritage) in Ghana allowed me to explore my heritage and to relate to my colonizing ancestors, which was a whole other kind of uncomfortable experience.
In hindsight, Ghana gifted me a mirror in which I can explore my privileged position and connection to the contemporary legacy of colonialism. As part of a larger group, I am so very thankful to the racialized members of this travelling group, for their willingness to teach me. In this work, I still failed. And I listened. And I learned. We all learned. Unsurprisingly, we didn't all learn the same lessons.
The concept of communitas - which anthropologist Victor Turner described as a loosely structured community that comes together in a 'liminal' or transitory space (link), which Olaveson (2001) describes as "a modality of human interrelatedness" where individuals communicate "just as they are" (p.104) - fits the transient nature of this trip, and as a white traveler, I have come out the other side with so much more knowledge. My next task, is to be accountable to the knowledge I've been gifted.
Although I had not previously thought very much about Ghana, it had thought of me. And now I think and dream of Ghana.
Autoethnographic writing focuses on an epiphany moment, is written in first-person, and is supposed to prompt individual reflexivity in thinking through your own experiences (Rowe, Rudnick and White 2019). Calafell (2013) argues that reflexivity is a tool for “intersectional critique, an illumination of power, and acknowledging one’s relationality” to power (p. 7). Calafell appreciates the use of autoethnography to “resist master narratives” by acknowledging multiple voices and experiences of shared moments, activities, and places (2013, 11).
For this trip, I developed an autoethnographic guide which had three kinds of available prompts:
1. General ethnographic prompts for writing or thinking
2. Prompts related to specific activities or sites that we will visit throughout our trip
3. Summative prompts for writing and thinking nearer to the end of your trip (or once at home)
The goal of these autoethnographic prompts was to help travelers process what they’d experience and to seed potential blog or vlog posts about their experiences on this trip.
I've included some sample questions below:
Makola Market was described as ‘frenetic’ by our travel guide company. Take a moment and conduct a phenomenological assessment of this space using your five senses: how did it sound, look, feel, taste (did you eat/drink anything, a taste in the air?), or smell?
St. George’s Castle in Elmina is significant because of its colonial history as the ‘point of no return’ (it is the last place where many enslaved people set foot in Africa before they stepped onto the boats to the New World). If you feel comfortable, please put into words or record a video about how you’re feeling in this space. How, if at all, do you see your connection to this context?
Describe your experiences of the Palace of the Ashantihene. What, if any, symbols resonated for you? How is power shown here? Discuss the role of ‘power’ as you’ve seen it throughout your travels this week.
Did you take any pictures or videos today? What were these pictures of videos of? Why were these spaces significant (or not) for you?
When taking pictures, how, if at all, did you feel as though you were intruding on their private lives for your own consumption? Did you feel someone else’s ‘gaze’? Did you watch someone in that space? If so, why? If not, why not?
Door of Return.
So here we are.
February 18, 2020.
Ghana.
We are a group of eleven. Our count includes five Black folks; five whites; and one individual of South Asian descent.
We all stand at this Door for different reasons:
For some, it's an intellectual exercise of engaging with public history and a UNESCO heritage site.
For others, it's a stop along the way to our beach-side accommodations.
And for a handful of us, we were the physical mediums for spiritual reconciliation; we were the carriers of centuries of pain, torture, death, but also hope and resilience.
I had 'returned' through this door a little under a year earlier. It was my first experience walking through the historical stench of this factory of death. The screams and cries of history muffled by the laughter of tourists taking selfies on the unmarked graves of my ancestors.
It was an experience like no other.
And this time around, it was time for me to take a step back and observe how others (of different ages, races, experiences in life, interests) navigated these spaces associated with the Transatlantic Slave Trade.
I was both excited, and nervous, for the days ahead.
As I stood at this 'Door of Return,' at the beginning of the emotional and psychologically draining (and most meaningful) phase of our trip, I thought of a shirt that I saw Chris Ashley wear almost a year ago in one of my classes: "I am my ancestors' wildest dreams."
No truer words have been said.