Rat Care

Getting a new pet can be exciting, nerve wracking, and fun all at the same time. I got my first rat at the age of 10 years old, her name was Nicolee. At age 11, I had no pet experience and even less knowledge on how to own a rat. My mom gave her to me in a 10 gallon fish tank with Aspen Pine bedding. Looking back I cringe with the thought of how little I knew when I took on one of the best pets I ever owned.

Rats are incredibly smart, sweet, and playful. I remember coming home from school every day taking her out of her cage and letting her run around my room while I did my homework. She would scurry around and just have a grand time. I would frequently take her out to the little playground at my apartment complex. She loved walking on the brick wall that enclosed the park, as well as going down the slide.

At age 10, I did not have any knowledge on how to train a dog, let alone a rat. But just creating a bond with Nicolee showed me what she needed from me and how much I could trust her. Do I recommend you going home right now and allowing your new pet rat to run around openly in your home - NO! But with time and understanding, rats can learn boundaries and have time outside of their kennel.

Any experienced rat owner can tell you that rats and dogs can be similarly seen in regards to training and companionship.

I have owned many more rats since Nicolee, each one different from the next. Some I created a bond just like I did with my first rat, others not so much. I loved them all the same, and did my best to learn and grow.

Socialization:

Rats are extremely social animals, so it is highly recommended to keep more than one. I would recommend planning on at least 2 hours a day minimum, more if you only have one rat. If you only have one rat it is required to have as much interaction outside of their kennel as possible to avoid depression. The more time you spend with your rat(s) the stronger your bond will be. This is as simple as allowing them to be out of their cage while you watch TV.

Typically rats should be adopted together to ensure that they get along. If your rat(s) have not been adopted together it is important to do a slow introduction with supervision. Rats are just like people in regards to having different personalities and having similar conflicts that will not allow them to be housed together. A slow introduction requires two cages and a neutral area. A neutral area could be a bathroom, bathtub, or a cage that neither has stayed in without it being cleaned. When you introduce them, you may want some toys or obstacles to distract them from each other.

Slowly increase the amount of time the rats spend together in the neutral area. You will be able to tell if they are getting along or not. Rats will chase each other, snack with each other, and cuddle together if they get along. Rats that do not like each other will often fight or “box” each other.

Boxing is a common fighting term used when the rats stand on their hind legs and fight each other. This is to determine hierarchy. This may appear and sound bad when this behavior occurs, but as long as no blood is drawn, leave them be. If the rats box each other every time they are together, that is a good indication that they do not get along very well and are continuing to fight for dominance.

Cage Requirements:

The minimum floor space needed for one rat is two square feet. For each additional rat, you need another square foot of space. This means for two rats you need at least three square feet of floor space. Rats also enjoy climbing, so a multi-level cage is highly recommended.

Rewind when I told you that I housed my first rat in a 10 gallon fish tank. Super bad! In my many years, I have learned that cages that allow air flow and have multiple levels are by far the best option! When a rat is housed in an enclosed kennel, like a fish tank, the ammonium in their urine builds up and they will quickly get an upper respiratory infection. The more air that is able to flow through the kennel, the better.

To no surprise, rats also love to chew…on everything. It is important that the kennel you are housing them in is metal to avoid any breakouts.

The cage should have many toys, tunnels, obstacles and mini huts for your pet to hide and sleep in. Rats are smart animals and they require lots of stimulation to keep them from getting bored. Toys that the rats can chew on or push around are always a particular joy.

If you are going to use bedding in the kennel please avoid pine, aspin, or any other wood shavings. I recommend Carefresh or a similar paper product.

Food:

Rats are like humans, they will typically eat what tastes best and not necessarily what is the most nutritional. This means that the mixed bags of food that have the seeds and grains in them will be shifted through and you will constantly be refilling a bowl that is not fully consumed. It is recommended to feed your rat a diet of pellet or kibbles to ensure that they are getting all the nutrition that they need. This kibble should make up a minimum of 75-80%% of your rats diet.

Fresh fruit and veggies are highly recommended to make up the other 20-25% of the diet. It is important to remember that any fresh vegetables and fruits that are given need to be discarded from the cage after 24 hours to avoid eating spoiled food.

What to expect at first:

When you first bring your rats home, they will most likely be anxious. You will want to leave them in their cage to explore their surroundings and get used to the sights, sounds, and smells of the new environment. They may run and be scared when you enter the kennel. If you force yourself on them during this time, it may make bonding with them much harder.

I recommend spending time with the door open, talking to them in a soft calm voice. You can rest your hand in the kennel and offer treats.

Once they see that you are not there to yank them out into a scary place, they will begin to trust you. Taking treats from you, approaching you, climbing on you, and cleaning (licking) you are all great signs that a bond is being formed. From here they should not be stressed to have you handle them, and you may start to allow them to explore areas outside of the kennel.

Let your rat(s) approach you, this is a sure way to create a bond.

Veterinary Care:

Most people may not think that pocket pets are in need of veterinary care, but they can get sick like any other living creature. It is important to monitor them for any signs of not being well. The most common sickness seen in rats are Upper Respiratory Infections (URIs). This is like a common cold. You may notice your rat sneezing, or seems congested with decreased energy, and/or discharge from the eyes or nose. A friendly tidbit, rats have red mucous. So if you notice red around their eyes or nose, this is most likely the first sign of a URI and you should seek care and can be easily treated if caught soon enough.

Another common issue seen in rats are masses. Many times they can live their lives without interference, but if the mass continues to grow and begins to impede their movement it is imperative that you seek veterinary care.

I encourage you to continue learning about rats by doing your own research. If you have any questions please reach out to Little Critter Arena.