The chemise was the most basic foundational garment. Worn closest to the body, it was a light, loose, easy-to-wash shift (straight dress with no waist). The chemise protected the outer layers of the garment from sweat and body oils. It also kept the corset from rubbing against the wearer’s skin.

This chemise and the drawers (pants worn as underwear) below were part of Caroline Sutherland’s 1854 wedding trousseau (clothes and household linens collected by a bride for her marriage). After she died in childbirth, they were packed away for more than a century.

Early drawers were split (open between the legs) to make it easier to use the toilet. Drawers came into use in the 1830s among the upper classes, but did not become commonplace among women until the 1850s. Even then, drawers were considered optional, as the chemise and petticoats gave enough coverage. Drawers were more likely to be worn by style-conscious urban women than those living in rural areas or the west.

Caroline Sutherland marked her name on the waistband of her drawers to keep track of them in the laundry. After her death, her sister-in-law, Mary Hoag Sutherland, crossed out Caroline’s initials and wrote in her own.

Stockings were long, knitted or sewn hosiery that reached above the knee (not to be confused with socks, which were shorter). They could be machine- or hand-knit in a variety of fibers and thicknesses. Fine knit silk stockings were luxury items generally used for special occasions, while cotton or wool stockings were typically for everyday use.

Lucinda Meacham wore these hand-knit stockings when she married Wellington Huffaker on August 11, 1853.

When a woman was dressing, it was often easier to put on her shoes before her corset, which could limit her ability to bend over.

Leather ankle boots with elastic sides were known as “Chelsea boots” or “Congress gaiters”. They were popular with both women and men for walking and riding in the mid-1800s.

Kid leather or cloth slippers were more suited to evening social gatherings. Embroidery and decoration became popular on footwear in the 1850s and 1860s.

The corset cover was an optional layer worn over the corset. This cover might be used to protect the outer garment from the corset hardware or to hide the corset under a sheer dress. It could also provide extra warmth during cold seasons.

The under petticoat (also called a “modesty” petticoat) was worn under the cage crinoline (hoop) to provide cover for the legs if the hoops should tip up.

Flannel or woolen under petticoats such as this one provided warmth in the winter.

The cage crinoline (also known as the hoop skirt) was developed in 1856. Before this, women had to wear multiple starched petticoats to achieve the popular, bell-shaped skirt. Although hoops appear awkward, most women found them more convenient, affordable, and comfortable than wearing many layers of petticoats.

The use of hoops quickly spread to all social classes. However, women who did manual labor or worked in factories or on farms probably went without hoops while working.

The over petticoat was worn over the cage crinoline (hoop skirt) to soften and hide the lines of the hoop. It often featured an elaborately embroidered decorative hem, which might be exposed while the wearer was walking.

While many 19th century dresses had pockets sewn into the seams, they were not standard in women’s clothing. If her dress had no pockets, a woman might carry small items, such as her handkerchief, in a pocket such as this under her skirt. It was tied around the waist and accessed through slits in the outer garment.

Collars and undersleeves or cuffs were both practical and decorative parts of women’s clothing. They protected the dress from wear and dirt at the places where it was the most vulnerable. Collars and cuffs were usually made of white cotton or linen. They were freshly washed and starched, then lightly sewn on before wear and snipped off for the laundry.

A gay dress, or finery of any sort, when in a boat, stage, or car, lays a woman open to the most severe misconstruction – The Ladies’ Book of Etiquette and Manual of Politeness,1860

In the mid-1800s, women were expected to wear plain dresses with quiet colors when traveling or walking. Behavior guides, like the one quoted above, warned that women who wore fancy traveling clothes were thought to be of low moral character.

Sponsored by Sue Massie

Just like today, the 19th century woman added jewelry to her outfit based on what she could afford and the type of occasion she was dressing for. Pocket watches, in particular, were considered an important symbol of respectability.

Jewelry of this time was often sentimental and inspired by the past. Bonds of love and affection were sometimes declared with jewelry made of loved one’s hair, as with this necklace. Sometimes jewelry displayed the loved one’s image, as with this brooch. These cameo earrings reflect a 19th century fascination with ancient cultures. They were carved from the volcanic rock of Mt. Vesuvius that buried the Roman city of Pompeii in 79AD.

Ladies were advised not to leave the house without wearing gloves, preferably of kid (soft leather made from the skin of a young goat). White gloves were for evening dress, while day gloves often matched the wearer’s outfit.

Women were also expected to wear a hat or bonnet while outdoors. When going indoors on a social call or for church, women (unlike men) were not expected to remove their headwear.

Shawls came in a wide variety of patterns and materials. A muted shawl was recommended for travelling, as it would provide warmth without being considered gaudy.