Whose Past?
An Exploration of Imported Patterned Silks in Medieval Britain
Embedded Files
This project relies on small fragments of imported silk to reveal the global nature of material culture in medieval Britain. We identify surviving patterned imported silks from medieval British contexts – including burials, archives, and church treasuries – a task that has not previously been undertaken. We then bring into play a variety of methods, including iconography, weave, and materials analysis (dye and metal thread), to determine each textile fragment’s original place and date of manufacture. Using this data, we map the number of fragments made in different regions, creating, for the first time, a visual representation of medieval Britain’s connection to the rest of the globe, through its use of patterned silks.
Our study characterizes specific collections, delineates the composition of the entire body of silks held in Britain, and helps to build a new, scientific understanding of medieval textiles across the globe. Deliverables include a conference in summer 2028, formal publication in book form, and public-facing interpretations of findings to be made available through physical and digital arenas.
Photo at top of page: Painted photograph copy of Canterbury Cathedral Seal Bag No. 18. Victoria & Albert Museum, London, 821-1893.
Our study characterizes specific collections, delineates the composition of the entire body of silks held in Britain, and helps to build a new, scientific understanding of medieval textiles across the globe. Deliverables include a conference in summer 2028, formal publication in book form, and public-facing interpretations of findings to be made available through physical and digital arenas.
Photo at top of page: Painted photograph copy of Canterbury Cathedral Seal Bag No. 18. Victoria & Albert Museum, London, 821-1893.
Team
Team
Lead investigator: Amanda Luyster, Associate Professor, College of the Holy Cross, Worcester MA USA
Co-investigators at The National Archives, UK:
Dr. Paul Dryburgh, Principal Record Specialist
Dr. Marc Vermeulen, Head of Heritage Science and Conservation Research
Contributors to the Project
Dr. Moira Bertasa, The National Archives, UK
Mallorie Francis, The National Archives, UK
Ana Cabrera Lafuente, Ministry of Industry, Commerce and Tourism, Spain
Dr. Pedro Máximo Rocha, The National Archives, UK
Sílvia Saladrigas, Textile Museum and Documentation Centre, Terrassa, Spain (Centre de Documentació i Museu Tèxtil de Terrassa)
Cristina Scibè, PhD candidate, Art and Heritage, International Doctoral School, University of Seville (Spain), and external collaborator, Scientific Laboratory of the Opificio delle Pietre Dure, Florence (Italy)
Dr. Caroline Solazzo, Independent Researcher, France, formerly of the Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute
Dr. Ina Vanden Berghe, Head Textiles Lab, The Royal Institute for Cultural Heritage (KIK-IRPA), Belgium
Dr. Elizabeth Dospěl Williams, Penny Vinik Chair of Fashion, Textiles, and Jewelry, The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, USA
Student Assistants
Yasmeen Alam, Rebecca Buckley '26, Fiona Greaney '29, Caroline Heinze '28, Kelly Lombardo '26, Vedanth Natarajan '27, Karen Phan '25, Yonglong Ren '26, Jason Yang
News
News
Seal bag, The National Archives E 40/15679.
Bottom right image is from the inside of the silk seal bag.
Photo credit: Katerina Williams, The National Archives
Bottom right image is from the inside of the silk seal bag.
Photo credit: Katerina Williams, The National Archives
Where are the silks?
Where are the silks?
We have identified relevant silks at the following institutions.
We have identified relevant silks at the following institutions.
Cambridge, King's College
Canterbury Cathedral
Durham Cathedral
Dunfermline Abbey
East Sussex and Brighton and Hove Record Office (ESBHRO)
Kew, The National Archives
London, British Library
London, British Museum
London, London Museum
London, London Archives
London, Victoria and Albert Museum
London, Westminster Abbey
Oxford, Bodleian Library
Oxford, Brasenose College
Oxford, Magdalen College
Oxford, Merton College
Perth, Perth Museum
Stamford, Burghley House
York, Archaeological Trust
Photo at left: Detail of Durham Cathedral DURCL: 6.9.25; Nature Goddess/Earth and Ocean Silk Fragment. Photo by Amanda Luyster.
We welcome questions and suggestions for new material.
We welcome questions and suggestions for new material.
Contact aluyster@holycross.edu
Page updated
Report abuse