"I want to spread the appeal of this region to the next generation and hope they treasure such traditions." - Kazuko
@Photo by Miwa Sakamoto
© Enjoy WATARI. All Rights Reserved.
A rice bowl topped with salmon meat and salmon roe (harako). Miyagi Prefecture is the largest producer of coho salmon in Japan.
Originating in the Arahama district of Watari town, Harako-meshi is a local specialty of Miyagi Prefecture.
From September to November, salmon swim upstream in the local rivers. During this season, harako-meshi is widely served both at home and in many restaurants across Miyagi Prefecture. It is also a popular dish at autumn festivals.
© Sendai Tourism, Convention and International Association. All Rights Reserved.
Miyagi Prefecture has many rivers, and in the Watari area, near the mouth of the Abukuma River, salmon have long been abundant in autumn. Because of this, harako-meshi has been eaten since the Edo period as a kind of “fisherman’s meal (Ryoshi-meshi)” by local fishermen.
According to legend, Lode Date Masamune helped the local food to spread. In the early Edo period, as Date traveled to Watari to inspect the construction of the Teizan Canal in Arahama, harako-meshi was served to him. Impressed by the taste, he later boasted about it to his retainers.
Since then, harako-meshi is remembered as one of the most famous local cuisines in Miyagi.
Harako-meshi differs from the salmon & salmon roe bowl (鮭いくら丼). Harako-meshi is made by simmering slices of salmon and placing them on top of rice, rather than using raw salmon sashimi.
Regional variations: A distinctive feature of the Watari's harako-meshi is its brown-colored rice, which is cooked in a flavorful salmon broth. However, in northern Miyagi, as well as in parts of Iwate and Niigata, the dish is sometimes made with plain white rice instead of broth-cooked rice.
Today, the elements of the dish—simmered salmon, rice cooked in salmon stock, and salmon roe marinated in soy sauce —are typically served separately, whereas in the past all the ingredients were mixed together.
Harako-meshi literally means “salmon child rice.”
"Harako" is a local term for salmon roe. In Japanese, salmon roe is also called ikura, but in the Watari areas, it is known as "harako". Meshi is a casual word for rice or a meal in Japanese.
October 8th is "Harako-meshi Day."
To spread the delicious Harako-meshi outside the local area, October 8th was designated as Harako-meshi Day.
@All Photos by Miwa Sakamoto
<Ingredients> (Serves 4)
Rice...3 cups
Raw salmon (fillet)...2 pieces (approx. 200g)
Soy-sauce marinated salmon roe (harako)
【Seasonings】
・Soy sauce...4 tablespoons
・Sake...4 tablespoons
・Sugar...1 tablespoon
* Optional: Chopped nori, mitsuba, shiso leaves, green onions
<Directions>
<Step 1> Get raw salmon fillets at a supermarket
<Step 2> Rinse the rice and soak it for about 30 minutes
<Step 3> Prepare the ingredients
① Remove the bones and skin from the salmon, then slice it into bite-sized pieces
② Add the seasonings to the pot and bring to a boil
③ Once boiling, add the salmon and cook until it changes color
Tip: To lock in the umami flavor, avoid overcooking
④ Separate the broth from the meat
<Step 4> Add water and broth to the rice cooker, then add water up to the mark and mix well. Then, turn on the rice cooker
Tip: Let the broth cool before adding it to the rice
<Step 5> Plating
① Gently mix the freshly cooked rice
② Serve the rice into a bowl, then neatly arrange the simmered salmon and salmon roe (harako) on top, garnished with chopped nori
Ekiben (railway bento) is a special lunch box sold at train stations for railway passengers. Ekiben often features local specialties. Harako-meshi ekiben are sold at Sendai Station and Morioka Station.
Ekiben-ya (Ekiben shop) at Sendai Stn.
Two kinds of Harako-meshi were found!
@All Photos by Miwa Sakamoto
Harako-meshi recipe movie uploaded by MAFF (Japanese only)
Watari city and Harako-meshi (English subtitle)
Harako-meshi cooking video (English available)
Buratto-Watari website (Japanese only) provides useful information about restaurants in the Watari area where you can enjoy authentic harako-meshi.
“Our Regional Cuisines - Beloved tastes and flavors we want to pass on to the next generation” website (English available) is the online database of MAFF on Japanese food cultures. You can check information on the origin, history, and recipes of harako-meshi here.
As a high school home economics teacher, my grandmother devoted herself to promoting harako-meshi in the field of education in Miyagi. She shared with me her thoughts on keeping the traditional dish alive for future generations.
I believe it is important to cherish and preserve the food culture. Our ancestors have effectively utilized locally caught fish. Local food culture reflects the wisdom of ancestors.
Although people's values change over time, I want to pass on not just the dishes, but also the wisdom of those who came before us. I want to spread the appeal of this region to the next generation and hope they treasure such traditions. – Kazuko
Enjoy WATARI. (n.d.). About Watari. https://www.enjoywatari.com/english/about-watari/ (English available)
Enjoy WATARI. (n.d.). Harakomeshi. https://www.enjoywatari.com/english/food-drink/harakomeshi/ (English available)
Japan Calender.(2012). Watari, Miyagi Salmon Specialty: Harako-Meshi. [Video]. YouTube. https://youtu.be/F97j36sMPq0?si=ujXxcszeZE23MFXm (English subtitle)
MAFF. (n.d.). Harakomeshi | Our Regional Cuisines. https://www.maff.go.jp/e/policies/market/k_ryouri/search_menu/1144/index.html (English available)
MAFF channel. (2021). Uchi no kyōdo ryōri 〜 tsugi sedai ni tsutaetai taisetsu na aji 〜 Miyagi-ken ‘Harako-meshi’ reshipi mūbī.[Our Local Cuisine – A Treasured Flavor We Want to Pass to the Next Generation – Miyagi Prefecture ‘Harako-meshi’ Recipe Video]. [Video]. YouTube. https://youtu.be/yc9btOqNtEo?si=I3w4lnraKcwNOJr4 (Japanese)
Sendai Tourism, Convention and International Association. (n.d.). The Site of Sendai Castle (Date Masamune official promenade image). https://www.sentabi.jp/guidebook/attractions/78/ (English available)
Tsuriyaka-meshi. (2020). I tried making "harako rice" recommended by a viewer! [Video]. YouTube. https://youtu.be/C4B5lhofgKM?si=g6Hu7G18NFA6m_GA (English available)
Watari Town. (n.d.). 10-gatsu 8-ka wa ‘Harakomeshi no hi’ [October 8th is ‘Harakomeshi Day’]. https://www.town.watari.miyagi.jp/tourism/detail.php?content=93 (Japanese only)