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Marketplace
Marketplace
The journey of preparing a meal starts at the marketplace, a place equally important for socializing as it it for trade. Through this webpage we will guide you through images from the Technique that depict the elements of the process of making food. By thinking about the creation of a dish as a process, we can reflect on practices in our own culture and compare across nations and time periods.
The Marketplace, Chợ
The Marketplace, Chợ
The Marketplace, Chợ
The Marketplace, Chợ
Going to / Returning from market
Going to / Returning from market
What do you bring to the market to hold your goods? A basket, reusable shopping bags? The people on the left (3) are returning from the market with products wrapped in cloth and some sort of jar with a handle.
Trade and commerce is an important part of all cultures as it shows what kinds of products are being produced and what is in demand from the customers.
According to Trịnh Khắc Mạnh, Vietnamese markets before the modern period were either managed by the local administration, or by a local temple. Profits from market management would thus go back either to local communities or to the temple (Trịnh Khắc Mạnh 2015: 7).
Who manages the markets you shop at? Do the profits go back to your community?
Photo number 8 shows a person carrying an animal from the marketplace in a woven cage on a stick.
Who do you usually see at the grocery store? In these photos the people were often described as peasants and servants
How do ingredients get transported to the store?
Video of Cart delivering coconut milk to street vendor selling dessert:
Dry goods store, Cửa hiệu tạp hóa.
Western accounts of Markets in Vietnam in the 1820's
Western accounts of Markets in Vietnam in the 1820's
George Finlayson, a surgeon and naturalist attached to the Crawfurd diplomatic Mission to Siam and Vietnam to establish trading relationships between Britain and South East Asia, in 1821-1822, gave an account of the principal market in Huế, which he visited on 3rd October 1822, as follows:
“It consists of a spacious street about a mile in length, with shops on either side of the whole of its length. Many of the shops are mere paltry huts, made of palm leaves; the rest are more substantial houses, constructed chiefly of wood, and have tile or thatched roofs. Here also, the poverty of the shops was particularly striking. A very large proportion contained nothing but shreds of gilt and coloured paper used in religious ceremonies and at funerals. Chinese porcelain, of a coarse description; fans, lacquered boxes, Chinese fans, silks, and crapes, the two latter in small quantity; medicines without number, coarse clothes made up, large hats made of palm-leaf, and a sort of jacket of the same material; rice, pulse, and fruit; sago … were the common articles exposed for sale. There were but few, and those very coarse articles of manufactured iron, as nails, hatches, and chisels, which bore a high price …” (George Finlayson 1826: 371-2).
Saleswoman (or woman selling) was described 62 times in the Technique versus 3 described as just "seller" (Gender Neutral)
Saleswoman (or woman selling) was described 62 times in the Technique versus 3 described as just "seller" (Gender Neutral)
Why are there so many more women selling in the market? During the colonial occupation of Vietnam, there was a widespread urban relocation that brought Vietnamese people from villages across the country into the main cities. There was also a shift away from Confucius practices where
All four of the saleswomen shown on the left are selling candy. Clockwise from top left: selling molasses, Keo candy, candy, and sugar cakes
Video of Malt candy vendor (commentary on her hours and how she cycles around to sell)
https://youtu.be/1ZdDHy_MIPo?si=GirdrpYKX1FCETCm&t=1133
Do the majority of the sweets you eat come prepackaged? Do you make them yourself or buy them from someone who is known for their confectionary skills?
In your family, who is in charge of baking sweets for holidays and celebrations?
Meat & Connection to animal
Meat & Connection to animal
Do you know where the animals you eat come from? What about who raised them, who slaughtered them?
Video clip about where Bahn Mi vendor gets her fish in Hanoi
How is the meat displayed in the market you shop at?
How do they communicate how fresh the product is?
Image 8 shows how meat is hung at the market and demonstrates how the customer would request a certain cut from the butcher. This is still a common practice in markets around the world.
Image 7 shows two butchers slaughtering a pig tied up with bamboo and cord. The way that the animal is killed and processed is an important ritual in many cultures, for example halal meat has to be in good health, blessed, and drained of blood.
Link to information about halal meat:
https://www.thekitchn.com/good-question-what-is-halal-me-60979
The instruments used to slaughter and butcher animal products are also shown in the images from the Technique. (image 7,8,9,10)
Link to article about Pig Slaughtering practices and recent zoonotic disease issues in Vietnamese markets:
https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fsufs.2023.1101282/full
Cooking Tools
Cooking Tools
Butcher. Dao băm thịt.
Implement to pound meat. Dụng cụ để giã thịt.
Kitchen Knife. Dao dùng ở bếp.
Copper Kettle. Ấm đun nước bằng đồng.
Mats used to pound steamed rice. Mảnh chiếu rơm để giã bánh giày.
Spoon made from coconut shell. Muôi làm bằng miếng sọ dừa.
Stove. Lò đun.
Frying Pan. Chảo rán.
Kettle decorated with ribs. Ấm đun nước bằng đồng được trang trí đường vân nổi.
Earthenware pot. Nồi đất.
Rice steamer. Nồi đất để đồ xôi.
Wooden container for cooked rice. Âu gỗ đựng cơm.
Kitchen crockery. Bát đĩa trong bếp.
Traditional Vietnamese cooking tools were made from a variety of materials such as copper, bamboo, earthenware, and coconut shells. While traditional kitchenware like clay pots, wooden utensils, and bamboo steamers were still commonly used during the French colonial period, a variety of French cooking tools and utensils were also introduced during this time.
Vietnamese cooks started using French-style pots and pans made from metals like copper or aluminum, commonly used for making French-influenced dishes like soups, stews and sauces.
Traditional Vietnamese knives made of bamboo or bone were gradually replaced by European-style knives made of metal. These knives were better suited for slicing and dicing ingredients in the manner of French cuisine.
Cheese graters became more common in Vietnamese kitchens during this period as well, due to the introduction of of French cheese and dishes that required grated cheese as an ingredient.
As French pastries and baked goods became increasingly popular in Vietnam, so did the use of baking tools such as rolling pins, pastry cutters and tart molds.
The French also introduced coffee cultivation to Vietnam, leading to the use of coffee filters and presses to brew coffee in Vietnamese households. Coffee became an integral part of Vietnamese culture.
With the introduction of French wines and liquors, tools such as corkscrews, wine decanters and cocktail shakers also found their way into Vietnamese kitchens and bars.
While these French-influenced cooking tools became more common during the colonial period, traditional Vietnamese cooking methods and tools continued to be used alongside them, resulting in a blend of culinary influences in Vietnamese cuisine.
Preparing Dish
Preparing Dish
woman cooking. Người phụ nữ đang nấu ăn. Femme préparant la cuisine.
cooking fish. Nướng cá. Préparation des poissons.
Chinese pastry maker. Thợ Tàu làm bánh ngọt. Pâtissier chinois.
sausage maker. Làm dồi lợn. Fabricant de boudins.
making blocks of tea. Đóng chè bánh. Fabrication des pavés de thé.
cooking peanuts. Rang lạc. Cuisson des arachides.
rice winnowing. Sảy gạo. Vannage du riz.
castration of a pig. Hoạn lợn. Castration d’un porc.
pounding steamed rice. Giã bánh giày. Pilonnage du riz cuit à l’étuvée.
preparing corn on the cob. Bóc vỏ ngô. Préparation des épis de maïs.
How is food prepared?
Most of the images in the Technique feature most of the cooking process occuring in a squatting position. Elevated cooking surfaces are uncommon, and most of the process is done on the floor. In what ways do you think this could contribute to the process of preparing a meal?
Prior to French colonialism, both Vietnam and China had strong influences on the other's cuisine due to historical contact. This is exemplified in many images found in the Technique, like image (3) above and the images to the right. Image (3) shows a Chinese pastry maker and the two images exhibit the making of rice cakes and bánh oản cakes. These types of cakes and pastries show similarities between certain Vietnamese foods and cooking methods with Chinese ones.
Another major similarity between Vietnamese and Chinese culinary setting prior to colonialism is the large significance of tea. Image (5) above depicts two workers making blocks of tea. While tea was once largely consumed in Vietnam as it is in China, coffee became more popularized when the French brought brewed coffee to Vietnam. Today, Vietnamese coffee is one of the most popular drinks in Vietnamese cuisine.
What other similar dishes or cooking methods can you identify between Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine?
Similarly to selling in the marketplace, the images of women cooking significantly outnumbered men cooking. For instace, image (1) was one of dozens in the Technique with the label "woman cooking." Images of women grilling, searing, and boiling foods is prominent in the data. However, the depiction of women doing other task in the process are scarce. For instance, image (8) shows two men castrating a pig and image (9) shows 4 men pounding steamed rice. Why do you think that these different tasks within the realm of preparing food are typically done by either men or women? Does this exemplify larger cultural norms or standards?
Preparing the eating space
Preparing the eating space
Where does prepared food go?
What does the table look like?
What does the table look like?
After cooking a meal, now it is time to set the table.
The Technique images does not have many images of the dining table for a typical family meal. In fact, many images that reference tables are often about religious or spiritual offerings. The images of the offering tables tend to feature what appears to be a wide variety of food ranging from fruit, tea, and entrees.
What similarities do you notice about the following altars?
This brings up the question: Why was there more of a focus on documenting the religious and spiritual practices as opposed to family life?
Setting up/cleaning up the dining table
Setting up/cleaning up the dining table
Image number 1 features a host preparing tea for the guest. Image number 2 features a host cleaning up after meal. Image number 3 is described as Instruments de cuisine, (Kitchen implements, Dụng cụ làm bếp). The description vaguely describes the image as kitchen implements with no description on what is occurring in the image. Just looking at the image we see an individual scooping an unknown beverage or soup into a bowl/cup. What is in the big container? Why did this specific image have such a vague description.
Another missing piece of information is who sets up the table?
Setting up the table
Setting up the table
What usually resides on the table during meal time?
Image number 7 features a Tea tray (Khay đựng chén uống trà, Plateau à thé). In what context is the tea tray used? Is it only brought out when guest are over? Or when there is a special occasion? This important information is missing in the Technique, which seems to be more focused on labeling the object, ignoring its complexity in purpose.
Kieu Thi, a company that specializes in selling Vietnamese tea, explores the complex purpose and meaning behind tea culture. They emphasize the importance of tea time as it was "a practice of upright individuals and was a comfortable way to relax, bringing spiritual nourishment." She then includes a deep analysis of the different components of a set of tea. Her in depth analysis of the tea set, contrasts the vague and generalizing descriptions seen in the technique.
See their analysis below:
https://www.kieuthi.com/en/tea-culture/
Image Key
Preparing tea for guests. Pha trà mời khách. La préparation du thé pour les invités..
Post-meal cleanliness care, Vệ sinh sạch sẽ sau bữa ăn, Les soins de propreté après le repas.
Kitchen implements, Dụng cụ làm bếp, Instruments de cuisine.
Dish rack, Gác bếp để bát đĩa., Soupente à vaisselle.
Teapot with folding handle, Ấm pha trà có quai xách., Théière à anse mobile.
Soup bowl, Bát đựng canh., Bol à potage.
Tea tray., Khay đựng chén uống trà, Plateau à thé.
Chopstick holder., Giá gác đũa ăn., Support des baguettes à manger.
Earthenware bowls, Bát bằng đất nung. Vases en terre cuite.
Bowl., Cái bát tô., Vase.
Tea ladle.Gáo múc nước trà., Louche à thé.
Earthenware bowls., Bát bằng đất nung., Vases en terre cuite.
Faience tea pot, Ấm chè bằng sứ, Théière en faïence.
Worker’s tea kettle, Ấm pha trà bình dân., Théière populaire.
Offering table of home altar.Bàn để đồ lễ ở ban thờ gia đình.Tables d’offrandes de l’autel domestique.
Tray of ritual offerings.,Mâm đồ thờ.,Plateau d’offrandes rituelles.
The offerings table., Ban thờ để đồ lễ.,La table aux offrandes.
Fly protector for food., Lồng bàn đậy thức ăn., “Protège-mouche” pour les aliments.
Mealtime
Mealtime
Where do you get food?
Where do you get food?
Food could be cooked at home or obtained from outside restaurants. These restaurants can range from restaurants similar to the ones we have now (image 1) to street vendors who sell their dishes on the street (image 4).
How do you get food outside of the home?
While the methods of obtaining food might not have been dissimilar to the French colonialists creating this dataset, the food might have been. A common theme in this collection of images is the focus on the actual food dishes, such as the bún (image 2) or the rice-cakes (image 4).
Do you have any cultural dishes that are common in your country?
Family eating
Family eating
Community was a large part of the food culture, as evidenced by all these images. In fact, it was rare to find an image depicting someone eating alone. People enjoyed their meals in groups, either with family (image 5) or with friends (image 7).
Who do you eat your meals with?
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