About The Great Allegheny Passage Trail
Completed in the summer of 2013, the GAP is 150 miles of rail trail through rural Pennsylvania and Maryland open to hikers and bikers. The trail extends from downtown Pittsburgh, PA to Cumberland, Maryland, following the path of four former railways. The trail passes directly past numerous historic sites, through tunnels, over trestles and bridges, and within a few thousand feet (as the crow flies) of Frank Lloyd Wright’s famous Fallingwater home, though actually connecting to it by bike is a longer, hilly ride. The trail has a hard packed surface that rolls well, with good drainage and modest slope inclines.
About the C&O Towpath
The C&O Towpath, once a thoroughfare for commercial goods on barges that were towed by horses and mules, was saved from becoming yet another highway in 1954 by Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas, who organized an 8-day hike up the path to publicize his worthy cause. The trail today is 184.5 miles of dirt path following the north bank of the Potomac River from Cumberland, Maryland to downtown Washington, DC. Hikers and bikers enjoying the trail can expect to see deer, blue herons, and turtles in epic numbers many times of the year. Trail conditions are softer and less well-drained than the GAP, making travel during rains slower and messy, though still quite possible.
MUD
The C&O Towpath is mostly a “two rut” trail with two tire tracks separated by a grassy center, which tend to collect rainwater and create mud in wet conditions. The textured riding surface, mostly clay and crushed stone, will also test your saddle comfort more than perfectly smooth asphalt, making test runs on your bike before any big trip here very important.
What can you do? FENDERS! Seriously, don't worry about weight. You need fenders. Mudflaps, courtesy of Velo Orange would also be smart. This is also why it's helpful to ride with crocs or spray off shoes as you don't want funky feet. All these pictures were taken at the end of the day (and we had fenders). We got smart on the second day at put our daughter in her rain overalls.
Tunnels
While some tunnels are lit, some are not and are long! Make sure to bring bright lights or a headlamp. One of the most memorable moments on the trip was the Paw Paw tunnel. A spandex clad gentleman who was coming out of the tunnel as we entered, made sure to warn us to walk our bikes and turn on our lights. Seeing this as a challenge, we attempted to bike the whole way with our generator lights and made it (photo above: Megan proving the guy wrong)! Now, had we seen all the millipedes (Temple of Doom, anyone?) clinging to the tunnel walls, we might have walked.
Uneven Trail
Some of the C&O Towpath has amazing biking conditions (Big Slackwater's cement "riverwalk"), but most is uneven and can be taxing on you physically and emotionally. Because the puddled water tends to obscure the trail surface, you have to bike like every puddle has a rut or you'll take a spill. This causes you to clench everytime you go through a puddle and after 30 puddles, you'll start to shout obscenities when you hit one with a rut that kills your hands and arse.
What can you do? Wear biking gloves, shorts, ride a bike with a more upright position, ride slowly and try to relax
Animals
You'll see a lot of wildlife on the C&O Towpath, the less traveled sibling of the Great Allegheny Passage Trail. We saw herons, snakes, turtles, rabbit, deer, weasel (carrying a snake in his mouth), owls and even a fox (carrying a rabbit)!
Bike Shops
GAP Mile 113 - West Newton, PA West Newton Bicycle Shop - full service bike shop with restaurant above.
GAP Mile 88 - Connellsville, PA - Bikes Unlimited - full service bike shop
GAP Mile 62 - Confluence, PA - Confluence Cyclery - full service bike shop
GAP Mile 0 - Cumberland, MD - Cumberland Trail Connection - full service bike shop
C&O Mile 125 - Hancock MD - C&O Bicycle - full service bike shop, bunkhouse and general store.
C&O Mile 73 - Shepherdstown, WV - Sheperdstown Pedal & Paddle - full service bike shop
C&O Mile 61 - Harper's Ferry - Mobile Bike Repair - mobile bike repair, 703-431-7938
TRAIN
Capitol Limited - $20 for carry-on bike service at the stations below
GAP Mile 150 - Pittsburgh, PA
GAP Mile 88 - Connellsville, PA
GAP Mile 0 - Cumberland, MD
C&O Mile 73 - Martinsburg, WV
C&O Mile 61 - Harpers Ferry, WV
C&O Mile 0 - Washington, DC
Great Allegheny Passage Trail
A. POINT STATE PARK
GAP MILE 150- 36 acres of state park in downtown Pittsburgh at the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers as they form the Ohio River, this park also serves as the trailhead for the Great Allegheny Passage Trail.
B. THREE RIVERS HERITAGE TRAIL
GAP MILE 150- 25 miles worth of rail trail on the riverfront in Pittsburgh, offering world class views of downtown and stress-free biking throughout the waterfront.
C. HOT METAL BRIDGE
GAP MILE 146- Originally two rail bridges from 1887 and 1900, later both were converted for car use. In 2007 the downstream side was converted to bike and walking only, offering an amazing car-free experience.
D. CARRIE FURNACES
GAP MILE 140- Rare surviving examples of pre-WWII iron-making technology, blast furnaces 6 and 7 still tower 92 feet over the Monongahela River reminding visitors of what it took to support early 20th century American industry.
E. FALLINGWATER www.fallingwater.org | 1491 Mill Run Road, Mill Run, PA | 724-329-8501
GAP MILE 71- Frank Lloyd Wright’s masterpiece, designed for the Kaufmann family and built in 1935 partially cantilevered out over a small waterfall in quiet woods. It is physically close to the GAP Trail, but only reachable by biking a more circuitous route over some serious hills. The payoff is worth it.
F. OHIOPYLE FALLS
GAP MILE 71- A 20 foot waterfall section spanning the Youghiogheny River in Ohiopyle, PA, with a large grassy park on the banks and a full-service general store near by serving sandwiches and ice cream.
G. PINKERTON HIGH/LOW BRIDGES & TUNNEL
GAP MILE 52- A bridge / tunnel (849 ft) / bridge combo in Somerset County, PA, that follows the Pinkerton Gap in Somerset County, PA.
H. SALISBURY VIADUCT
GAP MILE 34- 1,908 feet long, built in 1912 as a railroad bridge, and converted in 1998 for its new role in giving cyclists and hikers spectacular views of the mountains next to Meyersdale, PA.
I. BOLLMAN BRIDGE
GAP MILE 31- The first widely-adopted all-metal railroad bridge design, in use since 1852, and still being used by cyclists and hikers on the GAP. The Bollman is 160 feet long, and constructed beautifully of both wrought and cast iron.
J. KEYSTONE VIADUCT
GAP MILE 30- A 910 foot concrete surfaced steel span with sweeping views over a rail line, located near the Mason-Dixon Line.
K. EASTERN CONTINENTAL DIVIDE
GAP MILE 24- A very short tunnel along the GAP denotes the high point between two watersheds. Everything to the west of that tunnel drains eventually to the Gulf of Mexico. To the east of it, everything drains to the Atlantic Ocean.
L. BIG SAVAGE TUNNEL
GAP MILE 22- The longest tunnel of the GAP and C&O at 3,295 feet, located 9 miles southeast of Meyersdale, Pennsylvania. The tunnel closes between roughly December 15 and April 10 every winter to protect against ice damage.
M. MASON DIXON LINE
GAP MILE 21- Dating to a colonial border dispute between Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Delaware, and still used as the defining line between the North and South regions of the US. Today the line is denoted as it crosses the GAP by a thick metal line bordered with paving bricks and a plaque.
N. BRUSH TUNNEL
GAP MILE 6- 914 foot long tunnel located a mile west of Corriganville, MD that was originally dug for 2 train tracks, but used today by only one. The second line was converted to a lit biking and hiking path, though one should attempt not to be in the tunnel simultaneously with the scenic train if possible.
O. CUMBERLAND NARROWS
GAP MILE 2- A naturally-occurring narrow valley carved by a river through the Wills Mountain Anticline, used today by several rail lines and roads to access Cumberland, Maryland.
A. PAW PAW TUNNEL
C&O MILE 156- 3,118 feet of canal tunnel near Paw Paw, WV, built to bypass 5 giant swooping bends in the river. It is very long, totally unlit, cool, uneven, and damp, so plan to have good lighting and a jacket.
B. WESTERN MARYLAND RAIL TRAIL
C&O MILE 136-114- A 22.5 mile long paved rail trail from Fort Frederick to Pearre Station, MD, whose smooth, fast surface might prove a welcome respite during wetter weather along the C&O.
C. BIG SLACKWATER
C&O MILE 84-89- A formerly washed-out stretch of the C&O that forced a 5-mile detour, repaired and reopened in 2012 as a beautifully paved stretch of path between cliffs and the river.
D. HARPERS FERRY
C&O MILE 61- Historic, quaint town at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, reachable from the trail only by climbing spiral stairs up to the railroad bridge.
E. WINCHESTER & POTOMAC RAILROAD BRIDGE
C&O MILE 61- A sweeping 4-span railroad bridge over the Potomac at Harper’s Ferry, VA, dating to 1834. Either lock your bike to the nearby rack off the C&O or carry it up the spiral staircase to the pedestrian bridge to Harper's Ferry.
F. WHITE’S FERRY Website | 24801 Whites Ferry Rd Dickerson, MD
C&O MILE 36- Located in Dickerson, Maryland, the only cable ferry service across the Potomac, carrying cars, people, and bikes. 7 days, 5am-11pm. $2 / Bicycle
G. GREAT FALLS PARK
C&O MILE 14- 800 acres of National Park in Virginia alongside the C&O Towpath, overlooking the Great Falls of the Potomac, a spectacular rushing series of waterfalls and islands easily viewed from a series of walkways and bridges.
H. CAPITAL CRESCENT TRAIL
C&O MILE 3- 11 miles of rail trail connecting the Georgetown neighborhood of Washington to Silver Springs, MD. The trail runs alongside the C&O Towpath and the Potomac River for its final approach into DC.
I. NATIONAL MALL
C&O MILE 0- Park space running about 18 blocks from the Lincoln Memorial at one end, past the Washington Monument, to the US Capitol Building, and bordered by the various Smithsonian Museums. Highly recommend riding this at night to see the monument's lit up and to avoid the crowds.
J. PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE
C&O MILE 0- Penn Ave now has a grand cycle track down its center with the Capitol and White House as bookends.
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Flight Arrival: Depart: Friday May 15 LAX @ 8:25 AM Arrival IAD (Dullas @ 4:25 PM)
UA 2268 Confirmation Number FROP11
Chuck's condo: 2939 Van Ness St NW #302, Washington, DC 20008
Start location: 2913 Normanstone Lane, NW, Washington, DC 20008
Tour Start Monday - May 18, 2026
Monday, May 18 - Harper's Ferry: Quality Inn, 25 Union Street, Harper's Ferry, WV 25425; 304-521-4710, 3 singles and 1 double
https://www.qualityinnharpersferry.com/
3 singles ($124.42 incl tax each) and 1 double ($129.63 incl tax). Held on Frank's Visa card. Pay at hotel.
confirmation #20826458
Tuesday, May 19 - Hancock: "Jackson's Ballard", 5 beds in 4 bedroom apartment, 2nd floor of 51 West Main Street, Hancock, MD,
Jackie's Trail Rentals, 443-622-3022, jackie@jackiedaley.com
95% prepaid ($369.28 of $388.72. so $19.44 due)
https://jackiestrailrentals.com/en/jacksons-ballad
Wednesday, May 20 - Frostburg: Allegheny Trail House B&B, 156 East Main Street, Frostburg, 240-580-9795, alleghenytrailhouse@gmail.com;
https://www.alleghenytrailhouse.com/
1 double (Depot Room with two queen beds) and 2 singles (Dixon and Old Main Rooms, where an inflatable mattress will be placed in one to make it a double)
Bike repair shop on the premises
50% prepaid ($237.69 of $475.38)
Thursday, May 21 - Connellsville: Connellsville B&B, 316 West Crawford Avenue, Connellsville, PA 15425; 724-603-2533; lucille.p.king@gmail.com
https://www.connellsvillebedbreakfast.com/
2 doubles (Italian Room $166.50 incl tax and German Room $205.35 incl tax) and 2 singles (Irish Room $166.50 incl tax and Slovak Room $166.50 incl tax), total of $704.85 incl tax, $20 deposit paid and rest due on arrival
Friday, May 22 - Frostburg: Tunnel Hotel (former Trail Inn), 20 Depot Street, Frostburg, MD 21532; 301-349-3699
https://www.frostburgtrailinn.com/
2 singles (Queen Room w/pullout 1 & 2, $178.80 incl tax each) and 2 doubles (Bunk Room $202.80 incl tax, and Family Bunk Room $214.80 incl tax); Total of $775.20 all prepaid, free cancel with 24 hour notice
Booking #334756639, 334756644, 334755824, 334754907
Saturday, May 23 - Hancock: "Jackson's Ballard", 5 beds plus one air mattress in 4 bedroom apartment, 2nd floor of 51 West Main Street, Hancock, MD,
Jackie's Trail Rentals, 443-622-3022, jackie@jackiedaley.com
reserved for six, $309.17 prepaid of $452.00 total, so further $142.83 is due
https://jackiestrailrentals.com/en/jacksons-ballad
Sunday, May 24 - Harper's Ferry: Quality Inn, 25 Union Street, Harper's Ferry, WV 25425; 304-521-4710, 2 singles and 2 doubles
https://www.qualityinnharpersferry.com/
2 singles ($117.39 incl tax each) and 2 doubles ($122.60 incl tax each). Held on Frank's Visa card. Pay at hotel.
confirmation #2081436
Monday, May 25 - Washington, DC: Hilton Garden Inn Washington DC/Georgetown Area, 2201 M Street NW, Washington, DC 20037, USA, Confirmation number - 3443252214, Phone number: 202-974-6010
post ride arrangements:
Return May 26: American Arilines (DCA (Washington Reagan) AA 880, 5:16 PM / arrive LAX 7:55 PM)
On the reservations:
a) Harper's Ferry: I tried to find a B&B, and checked more than a dozen, but they are all too small and/or already booked. So I made the reservations in the Quality Inn. We stayed there before on the previous Pittsburgh to DC ride, and it was OK. A bit out of town, but the closest of any of the larger hotels to the historic area of the town.
b) Hancock: I tried first to reserve rooms in the 1828 Trail Inn B&B, where we had stayed before. It was a nice place. But their website name was "available" for sale to anyone, which was not a good sign. They did have a Facebook page, however, with a note from October 2025 saying they were closing "for the season" and would reopen in 2026. They did not say when. I called a phone number I found, but could only leave a message. But it looked like they might be away for the winter and would reopen in the spring.
The owner called me some days later and said that they did not know when they would reopen in 2026 as they were doing a major remodeling. And they were not taking any reservations as it might not be until the Fall. In terms of other places, he recommended the 1878 River Run Inn (which I knew was already booked) or Jackson's Ballard of Jackie's Trail Rentals. I booked us at the latter (see above) and spoke to her a few days later (she was on a trip) to confirm whether we could have an additional mattress for the return stay on May 23. And as you know, I contacted everyone to see whether staying as a group of five on the way west and six on the return would be OK. All agreed.
Jackson's Ballard is a full apartment, with a kitchen as well as washer and dryer in case anyone wants to do laundry (either on the way out or on the way back). But there is only one bathroom, with what appears to be a reasonably large shower and two sinks.
She also has a large garage space in a building somewhere close where she says bikes can be safely stored overnight.
The only alternative on May 23 would be to book one or more rooms in the Potomac River Motel. It is a highway motel built in the 1950s or 60s (with a parking space in front of each room) and looks it. But it gets mostly good reviews, although with a few complaining that their room were not clean.
c) Frostburg: Frostburg has only a few good options. The Allegheny Trail House B&B gets very good reviews and is bike-oriented (with a bike shop at the same address). I called them first, and they could fit is in on May 20, but only by adding an air mattress for one of us in one of their singles (where they said there would be plenty of room). I took this. For Friday, May 22, however, they were already fully booked. The next best alternative was the Gunter Hotel nearby (a very old hotel, built in the 1890s I think, with mixed reviews), but it was also fully booked. One person said there might be a music festival in town that weekend, and a second said it might be graduation weekend at the local college. It is also Memorial Day weekend. There are a couple of standard motels outside of town on the far side from the trail, but they did not look too good as options. I also looked at the possibility of going on to Cumberland on the trail (a further 16 miles: while basically all downhill on a gentle grade, it would still be a 90-mile day). But a well-rated B&B there had recently closed, another was full, and the hotels there got poor reviews.
So I made the reservations in the Tunnel Hotel, which was formerly named the Trail Inn. It may be under new management now. We were there before and it was not great, but there was little other choice. But I spread us out over four rooms (two singles and two doubles). Last time we were all five in one room built for five. This time the singles are in rooms with queen beds and what they call a "pull-out" (which sounds like a sofa bed). The doubles are in one room that has four bunk beds and the other the "Family Bunk Room) that has a queen bed and two bunk beds.
Some of you will recall that the Trail Inn (now Tunnel Hotel) is halfway up a very steep hill from the bike trail. That is an advantage. The other places are all the way up that hill.
d) Connellsville: We stayed at this B&B before, and it was nice with a pleasant owner. I called this one first and rooms were available for us. We will basically have the whole inn. There is one other room, but it appears to be either in a separate building or has a separate entrance.
The (rather tiny) Amtrak train station in Connellsville is less than 2,000 feet away from our B&B. We could walk over. If on time, the train arrives at 9:39 pm on May 21 (it leaves DC at 3:57 pm).
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This is to follow up on my earlier email with the hotel reservations (copied below) to suggest where we could plan for our mid-day stop for lunch and snacks. There are places, but limited in number as the trails are often pretty remote from any roads.
They are listed below in order of our riding days from DC to Connellsville, with the distances shown in that direction. We can stop in the same places on the return. I am also listing here the addresses for where we will be staying. The distances are all to the places where we will be staying and are from Google Maps. While I believe they are correct, Google Maps is not always accurate on this (as it likes to quietly insert shortcuts onto roads and away from the trails - but I think I have caught all of these).
1) DC to Harper's Ferry: 2913 Normanstone Lane, NW, DC, to Quality Inn, 25 Union Street, Harper's Ferry, WVa:
Lunch stop at Riley's Lock (Lock 24) on the C&O Canal: 25.0 miles
Riley's Lock to Harper's Ferry: 39.1 miles - Total of 64.1 miles
The lunch stop is a bit early, but there is no good alternative (reachable by road for the one driving with the food) for a long distance afterwards. It is at the Seneca Creek Aquaduct, and there appear to be some limited services, e.g. a picnic table or two, water if the fountain is functioning, and some portable toilets. We may also get a late start on the first day as we get organized.
2) Harper's Ferry to Hancock: Rental unit at 51 West Main Street, Hancock, Md:
Lunch stop at Williamsport Park, Williamsport, MD: 40.6 miles
Williamsport to Hancock: 25.1 miles - Total of 65.7 miles
There is a small visitors center on the canal near this spot in Williamsport. We had our lunch stop at the visitors center on the 2016 ride, but there may now be some construction going on around it. The park is by the river and a safer bet.
3) Hancock to Frostburg: Allegheny Trail House B&B, 156 East Main St, Frostburg, Md:
Lunch stop at Paw Paw Tunnel Trailhead and Campground: 31.7 miles
Paw Paw to Frostburg: 43.4 miles - Total of 75.1 miles
The Paw Paw Tunnel Trailhead parking is just to the west of the Paw Paw Tunnel. It has to be reached via West Virginia, i.e. south of the Potomac River while the C&O Towpath is on the north side. One takes the bridge south at Hancock and then a bridge north at Paw Paw.
4) Frostburg to Connellsville: Connellsville B&B, 316 West Crawford Avenue, Connellsville, Pa:
Lunch stop at Fort Hill Road Trailhead: 39.7 miles
Fort Hill Road to Connellsville: 34.3 miles - Total of 74.0 miles
I could not find a good place to stop on this portion of the trail. This spot is just a bare parking lot, but I could not find a good alternative. If someone can find something better, then please speak up.
In addition, assuming I am not totally dead at the end of the first day (and that there is time), I plan on hiking up to Maryland Heights, across the river from Harper's Ferry. The view is spectacular there, and I have not gone up since I was a young teenager. The route now (it is different from the one I took over 60 years ago, which is now closed) is about one and a half miles each way, with an elevation gain of 1,154 feet according to the Park Service. It should take an hour and a half or so, and the trailhead is next to the C&O Canal (about 0.3 miles beyond the pedestrian bridge over the Potomac we will take to cross over to Harper's Ferry). And if energetic, one can extend the hike a further two miles or so (total, in a loop) to see some ruins of a fort.
I will have walking shoes with me (I have decided to do the ride with regular shoes), and can carry in my backpack those of others for anyone interested. There used to be a small parking lot close to the trail head next to the canal, which was popular with those riding (and hiking) along the canal. I used it for a day bike ride with a friend around ten years ago. The main problem with it was that the lot was popular and filled up fast. Evidently because of its popularity, the Park Service decided in its wisdom and sometime in the last ten years to get rid of it. I had thought we could have the car park there to carry shoes and stuff for those interested in the walk up to Maryland Heights, but that is now not an option.
Some links on the trail:
https://www.nps.gov/hafe/planyourvisit/maryland-heights-trail.htm
https://www.nps.gov/hafe/planyourvisit/upload/Maryland-Heights-trail-map.pdf
Note that the distances shown in the Park Service description are for those walking from downtown Harper's Ferry across the river to the trailhead. That adds about a mile and a half (round trip) and is part of the 4.5-mile total shown in the post.
Finally, for those who might want to see the Antietam Battlefield, I would suggest doing that on the way back. I am not personally interested (I would rather stay on the C&O Towpath, where portions are especially nice here), but if some are, it could be fitted in. Following the lunch stop in Williamsport, one would take roads to the battlefield, with a choice between country roads with little traffic but no shoulder, or busier roads with a shoulder. The total biking distance via Antietam is in fact shorter than via the C&O as the canal is windy in this stretch. We could have two groups, based on people's preferences. But no decision is needed on this until later (indeed, not until we are in Williamsport on the way back).
Frank
post ride arrangements:
Return May 26: American Arilines (DCA (Washington Reagan) AA 880, 5:16 PM / arrive LAX 7:55 PM)