Embedded Files
Objectives For This Project:
Create base and projected views in Fusion 360
Learn how to add dimensions and how to update and export drawings in Fusion 360
Generate 3D designs from 2D drawings and their dimensions
Use calipers to obtain measurements of a 3D object and design its projected views in Fusion 360
Utilize past lessons to design a new 3D object- a bike rack
Graded Warmup: Bike Rack
For this assignment, I used the Line tool to create a sketch that will be swept around. To begin with, I had to break the corners up into two 4 in lines (to allow for the curve). I changed the 4 in lines to construction, allowing me to use the Tangent arc tool. The Center Diameter tool was used to create the Sweep profile.
↪ I gave the curve a radius of 4 mm
↪ I used the Tangent Arc to to create a curve
↪ I selected the 4mm lines
↪ I readjusted the measurements for clarity
↪ I changed the 4mm lines to construction
↪ Final path before sweeping
↪ I used the Center Diameter tool to create a circle that will be the Sweep profile
↪ Orthographic rendition of the bike rack
↪ Finished 3D bike rack design
↪ Orthographic view closer up
Graded Warmup: Flattened Cone
I started by creating a closed profile (the highlighted section of Image 1) using the line tool. I then revolved it and it created the ideal flattened cone.
↪ Target design
↪ Image 1
↪ Completed design with multiple views
Orthographic Drawing:
To create the 2D Orthographic drawings the bike rack before and this joint connector, I accessed File --> New Drawing --> From Design
From there, I was taken to a Drawing page, where I first had to place my Base View. Going into Projected View created 2D images in various viewpoints depending on the angle. Double clicking images opened Drawing View, allowing me to change image style, scale, etc.
1 x 4 Lego Technic Brick Design:
PROBLEMS I ENCOUNTERED:
When I tried to make a center diameter circle, it automatically created one on the bottom plane (since I was sketching while viewing it from the top, I did not notice until I adjusted the view cube). This had an easy fix, one that I am already familiar with, which is to go into Construct and Offset Plane. Accordingly, I set the offset to 9.6 mm, the height of my rectangle. What I forgot to take into account is how the offset plane resets after I finished the sketched on that plane. This is what happened when I created the Center Diameter circle, again, not knowing it was on the bottom plane. I first tried to counter act this by extruding by 11.4mm (9.6mm that is the height+1.8mm of the desired extrusion). As seen to the left, this approach was not effective and rather created a hallow tube where the extrusion overlapped with the 3D body of the Lego. Taking the effective but tedious path, I re-sketched that circle on the right, offset plane. On the bright side, I finally learned from my mistakes.
↪ Example of when I forgot to adjust the plane
↪ Adjusting the lego to be flush with the plane
↪ Offsetting by 9.6 mm
↪ Center Diameter circle at the bottom
↪ The extrusion was hallow
Design Process:
Firstly, I created a rectangle (7.8mm x 9.6mm x 31.8mm), I offset the bottom plane so by 9.6mm to be flush with the top of the Lego. I sketched a circle with a diameter of 4.8mm meant to be on the far left of the plane, and extruded it by 1.8mm. Using the rectangular pattern tool, I created three more with a distance of 8mm between them. I had to reset the plane to an offset of 11.4mm (9.6mm+1.8mm) so I could draw a 3.2mm on each of the studs. I extruded the smaller concentric circle by -1.8mm. Moving to the side plane, I drew another circle with diameter 6.2mm and extruded that by -0.7mm. I drew a smaller, 4.8mm, circle within and extruded that by -7.8mm (enough for it to go completely through). I shelled the interior with an inside thickness of 1.5mm. I drew another circle on the inside between the circles and extruded it by 2.7mm to create the cylindrical supports on the bottom.
↪ Offsetting by 9.6mm
↪ Now, the center diameter circle appears at the top
↪ And now the extrude looks normal
↪ Rectangular pattern tool on the stud
↪ Smaller center diameter circles
↪ Extrude projection and settings
↪ Extruded by -1.8 mm
↪ Extruded by -7.8 mm
↪ Finished Lego (compared to reference) ->
My Lego Design:
I created a rectangle with the dimensions of 87.6mm x 39.3mm, and extruded it by 7.2mm. In the newly created rectangle, I sketched another rectangle 7mm away from the sides of the larger one. I extruded the smaller rectangle by -5.8mm. From here, I began creating the 7 circles on both of the longer sides. The larger circles had a diameter of 6mm, which I extruded by -0.3. At the center of these circles, I sketched another, with a diameter of 5mm, which I extruded by a -7mm. To create the hourglass shapes in between each of them, I sketched a rectangle with dimensions 3.2mm x 5.8mm. I then used the 3-Point Arc and filleted the corners by 0.3. I extruded these by -7mm. I sketched a rectangle on each of the four sides and extruded it by -3mm. I extruded another a few inches off, to create an area for the cylindrical shapes. With these indentations, I was able to fillet the sides of the circle section of the longer side. The circles on the shorter side were the same shape as before, so I repeated the process of creating them. Finally, I filleted the edge of the shorter sides as well.
↪ Created a rectangle
↪ Extruded a rectangle out of the original one
↪ 2-Point Rectangle --> 3-Point Arc --> Fillet (0.3)
↪ Extruded
↪ Finished sides
↪ Created indents on all corners
↪ Created another indent
↪ Filleted the corners
↪ Repeated the process on all corners
↪ -Extruded the five circles
Explanation for the rest of my process:
I created a circle of radius 6 at the center of each "island" I created with the indents
I extruded those circles with a distance of -3mm
I created a circle of radius 5 at the center of these circles
I extruded those with a distance of -7mm so that it went fully through the height of the Lego
On the bottom, I created symmetrical indents, but leaving a space where there is a horizontal connection
I was then able to fillet both the top and bottom, creating a cylindrical shape
I filleted the bottom edges of the pieces beside the cylinders (___________________________________) ↪ that part
↪ The horizontal connections I talk about can be seen in the images above and to the left
I drew two thin rectangles on the bottom side, and extruded them by -0.1mm
Lego Exchange Design:
↪ The original 2D drawings of Emilie's design
↪ Created the rectangles seperately
↪ Planned out where the two circles would be placed
↪ Extruded the rectangles by 3 and the square by 6
↪ Extruded a circle of radius 6 out of the center
↪ Created the Center Diameter circles
↪ A different angle
↪ Removed the placement blueprint lines
↪ Extruded the studs
↪ Shelled the underside of the rectangles
I began by creating a cross shape by drawing 4 rectangles of equal size. I then extruded the rectangles by 3mm and the center square 6mm. I -extruded a hole in the center of the square. I plotted out where the studs were supposed to be on the rectangles and and extruded them. Finally, I shelled the bottom of each rectangle with a width of 1.6mm.
↪ Finished design! (Emilie's Design ------>
Chess Set Design:
Link to the Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bDVauRL8po
↪ Screenshot of the tutorial's design
↪ Using a Canvas again (this was one of the problems I encountered, as the image used in the tutorial was not available, so I had to find another set from the same designers)
The 40° Rule:
In the tutorial, the design took into consideration something called the 40° rule. Through further research, I found this rule to be:
If the overhang of a part is between 0° and 45°, supports are unnecessary. Should they exceed 45° , supports are required
This is meant to ensure that each successive layer of a design has enough to build up on
↪ Revolve profile for King
↪ Revolve profile for Queen
↪ Revolve profile for Bishop
↪ Revolve profile for Knight
↪ Revolve profile for Rook
↪ Revolve profile for Pawn
↪ Completed Revolve profiles
PROBLEM:
When I revolved, the Queen and Bishop disappeared. The 3D object also did not have the grey, 3D shading. Instead, it looked like a drawing. The morning I updated F360 and then the color came back, but the deletion. I could not find a solution, so I made 6 copies
↪ Queen and Bishop disappeared
↪ The colors are off
↪ The colors are right
↪ Six copies
↪ Separated each piece in each copy
↪ Up close view of the Knight
↪ Revolved the big symmetrical (cone-like) shape first. For the part that pokes out, I used an axis that wasn't that of the first shape, but one that was further away (around where the axis of the bishop should be). Instead of 360°, it was changed to 2°, with the symmetric setting, and the action being joint. This allowed for the narrow "snout" and for it to be symmetrical. WIth the joint action, this feature is joined and welded into the cone-like shape extruded before.
IMG_0468.MOV
Printing the 3D Designs:
3D Printing Work Flow:
Fusion 360 Format -> STL Format
Under Export in TinkerCad, there should be options for 3D print: .OBJ, .STL, and GLTF (.glb)
STL Format -> GCode (what the 3D printer can read)
Using the PrusaSlicer 2.0
Import the STL file
Choose the Printer
Choose the Filament
Under Print Settings, you can choose the quality (the higher the quality the slower the print)
3. GCode -> 3D Print
Click Export G-code
Save the .gcode to the desktop
Open the Client server document found in EnjProj
Click the link connected to the printer you want to use
Click the Upload button
Select the file you want to open
Make sure nothing is on your 3D printer (clean with alcohol if needed)
Begin printing!
As seen above, my design required supports I designed my chess pieces in life size scale. When I exported that in Prusa Slicer, it was projected to take 6 hours to print. In order to reduce the amount of time, I scaled the pieces down until it took around an hour to print, which is more reasonable.
Page updated
Report abuse