Board to be Wild

About the CNC Machine:

The first Computer Numerical Control, or as in the title, CNC, machine was created by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) in the 1950s. This early version was used for cutting and drilling and from this, CNC machines became more widespread throughout the 1970s. This advancement is also due to computer-aided design (CAD) software and, subsequently, the personal computer led to an even more rapid growth given accessibility. The way the CNC machine works is by taking a digital design created using CAD software, translating the design into instructions processable by the computer, sending it to the CNC's controller, and finally allowing for the CNC movement to be controlled. The programming language that controls such machines is G-code, "geometric code." It allows for precision and detail that would otherwise be difficult to attain by hand. The movement of CNC machines is controlled along the x, y, and z axes, which correspond to the three-dimensional space of the machine interior, where the cutting tool operates. The x, y, and z axes control horizontal, vertical, and depth movement, respectively. With these three dimensions, greater movement is achieved as well as improved flexibility in what the CNC machine can create. As mentioned previously, the machines requires a variety of cutting tools (e.g. drill and router bits) to be controlled by the machine's software that specifies the speed, depth, and angle of each cut. It is also important to consider speed. rotational speed, and feed, the rate at which the cutting tool moves through the material. Given the accuracy and efficiency highlighted previously, these machines save time and labor costs.

Preparing the Wood:

IMG_0922.MOV

↪ Cutting wood (I needed to step with the machine)

IMG_1019.MOV

↪ Cutting more wood

↪ A jointer to smooth out the bottoms

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↪ Video of me using the jointer

Inspiration: (Fish pond+monet)

https://www.3dresinpainting.com/amp/goldfish-resin-art-painting-process

ceramic ones https://www.behance.net/gallery/8783129/Goldfish-X-CLOCK-handmade

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKTiabU2QVw- bad ish tutorial

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryI-Ubes2uU

on thin layer- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-yOBEPB1Jc

The original plan was for the dark grey hole to be the thumb hole. However, I did not take into account the tabs that would be on the wood during the mill, so I had to limit my dimensions from 13"x11" to 11"x9", as in the right. Thus, I changed my design a bit by adding a semicircle and taking away a concentric circle, but overall it maintains much similarity. I moved the inner semicircles closer so that I have more painting area. The circle in the upper left corner became the thumb hole.

Design Process:

↪ I began by creating circles that mark where my circles will be. There are two main circles in the center and two more around them to account for the gap.

↪ Using the cutting tool I selectively cut away intersections in order to create the main 2D torus and the semicircles.

↪ I saved this as a DXF and imported it into Aspire

↪ I found the distance of the furthest points from the edge of the sides to make sure they are at least 1 inch. This is so that the tabs will not be in the way of the mill

↪ The location on my design that will serve as the origin

↪ One of my main problems when creating the toolpaths is that my design had open vectors. This was because of the nature of how I created these forms, which is by cutting out intersections, unconnected.

↪ On my first attempt at fixing this issue, I tried going back into Corel Draw and making the lines thicker (0.0625 in) so I could create a bitmap. When I tried creating a bitmap with my hairline lines, the vector was not clear or complete. This time I thought creating a bitmap would mean the vectors would all connect.

↪ However, as seen in the picture, when I tried moving the vectored lines again, and they still separated

↪ The best solution I found was the Join Vectors tool

↪ To use the Join/Close vectors, I just clicked the parts of the form I wanted to join together. There were other options like join/close vectors with an arc or straight line. Using the one I chose, it just pulled the lines closer to each other based on their common endpoints. I could see when it is effective when the dotted line shifted. After using this tool, as seen in the next picture, when I clicked a form, it would highlight as a whole.

↪ Using it, my selected form was whole and complete

↪ I had another small issue with selecting the large circle. When I tried to select it it would select the other vector pieces along with it. I had to move the rest away and try again this way, an approach that was effective

Creating Toolpaths:

The reason I am using the 1/4" Straight bit is because with the 1/8" Straight bit I would not be able to reach a depth of more than half an inch. Since I need many resin layers to create the effect I am planning, I wanted to prioritize depth, so the 1/4" Straight bit was the best option for the fish pond.

↪ Pocket 1

↪ Profile 3

↪ Here, I encountered another problem. I did not properly select the shape, so it only considered the inner circle and the left semicircle

↪ Profile 1

↪ Profile 4

↪ I used the Shift+Click method to select multiple lines, however I realized my other issue was the form not being a closed vector

↪ Profile 2

↪ Profile 5

↪ I re-used the Shift+Click method to select all the separate vectors of the shape and used the Join Vectors tool. Once I did, the pocket worked

↪ Side View

↪ Added finishing paths

1: Pocket 1 and Finish 1

2: Pocket 2 and Finish 2

3: Pocket 3 and Finish 3

4: Pocket 4 and Finish 4

5: Pocket 5 and Finish 5

6: Pocket 6 and Finish 6

IMG_0967.mov

IMG_0968.mov

↪ Finished toolpaths simulation videos

Consolidating Toolpaths:

↪ Based on a finished mill, the area that we expected to have many ridges was actually quite smooth, so we took away the finishing pass with the 1/4 2 Flute Ballnose Bit

↪ I grouped all the pockets to one so I wouldn't have to save six files for all the individual pockets and because all six are done using the same bit: the 1/4" Straight

↪ This just means that my corners will be rounded

IMG_0973.mov

↪ New finished toolpath video

Milling with the ShopBot:

IMG_0983.MOV

For the Profile cut we did an air cut first and decided to move the tabs back a little bit just to be sure. However, when we tried to go in for the actual cut, the bit always got close to the wood but never went into it. Pulling the Aspire file back up, I realized it was because I inputted the depth of the cut wrong, 0.88 in instead of 0.82 in (0.81+0.01). This 0.06 margin of error was detected by the machine, preventing it from going through with the cut. Once I changed it to the right amount, the cut went smoothly. When doing the air cut for the pocket cuts, I again checked from the sides if the bit might run into the tabs. We were again planning to move the tabs further back, but once we referenced the Aspire files our worries were allayed and we went forward with the official cut. The bit would repeat a toolpath four times to get to the depth I set, 0.75 in, which was worryingly close to the bottom. The thinness of the bottom would have been fine if not for a crack that ran through the board.