A Cold Solder

Objectives For This Project:

Understand human need and uses of soldering throughout history and the invention of the mdoern-day soldering iron
Experiment with (practicing) soldering simple components (LED's and resistors) onto printed circuit boards (or PCB's)
Solder components onto a complex printed curcuit board (PCB)
Differentiate between polar and nonpolar components and their placement in complex electrical circuits
Troubleshot soldering problems in complex electrical circuits
Thoroughly document the engineering design process in a project from start to finish

Description:

The purpose of the project is to introduce us to using soldering irons and its uses. As a class, we read over a summary of its history and also discussed what polar and non-polar components are. We were also expected to get acclimated to using soldering terminology and thoroughly document our process. The finished project and this digital portfolio is meant to show our understanding of the documentation process, using soldering irons, and following directions properly.

SOLDER BRIDGE!

When solder has welded together into a conjoining mass, its called a bridge. It can potentially cause a fire if turned on and affect with the flow of electricity at the very least. To fix it, you must reheat the solder and remove the bridge.

COMPONENTS LIST:

Ceramic 0.1 uF Capacitor
Electrolytic 10 uF Capacitor
3mm LED's
S9014 LED Driver
Kilo-Ohm Resistor
10 Kilo-Ohm Resistor
2 Mega-Ohm Resistor
Potentiometer-10 K-Ohm
MIC-6022 Microphone
SK12D07-5 pin Toggle Switch
Battery Fixing Metal Sheet
PA 1.5*5 Screws
Glasses Shell, 2, 12-V Batteries, Screwdriver & PCB

↪ Image of materials needed to make glasses

↪ The solder is similar to the desired "Hershey's kiss" shape

↪ This shows a flush resistor that is touching the circuit board

↪ This shows a flush LED that is touching the circuit board

↪ Step 1: Install 1pcs 2Mohm Metal Film resistor at R8

↪ Step 2: Install 3pcs 10Kohm Metal Film resistor at R6, R7, and R9

↪ Step 3: Install 5pcs 1Kohm Metal Film resistor at R1-5

↪ Step 4: Install 1pcs MIC-6022 Microphone at MK1 (positive and negative poles matter)

(Positive poles have the longer wire)

↪ Step 6: Intall 50pcs 3mm LED at D1-D-50 (again, positive and negative poles matter)

↪ Step 7: Install 1pcs 0.1uF 104 Ceramic Capacitor at C3

↪ When installing, pay attention to the mounting direction

↪ Step 8: Install 1pcs ZIP-9 KA2284 LED Driver at U1 )

↪ Step 9: Intall 1pcs TO-92 S9014 Transistor at Q1 (again, be attentive to the mounting direction when installing)

↪ Step 10: Install 2pcs 10uF Electrolytic Capacitor at C1 and C2 (positive and negative poles matter)

(Poles for these capacitors can be distinguished just like those in Step 6)

↪ Step 11: Install 1pcs 10Kohm 103 Potentiometer at RP1

↪ Step 12: Install 1 pcs 5Pin SK12D07 Toggle Switch at S1 on PCB

(Be sure to install it on the backside of the PCB board)

↪ Step 13: Install 2pcs battery holder positive metal sheet

(Be attentive to the placement of the battery holder)

↪ Step 14: Install 2pcs battery holder negative metal sheet

(Pay attention to placement)

↪ Step 15: Put the PCB into the silver mirror frame and pay attention to the toggle switch

↪ Step 16: Fixed PCB by 9pcs Black PA1.5*5 Screw

↪ Step 17: Install 2pcs 23A 12V Battery

(Positive and negative poles matter. Negative poles are adjacent to the spring metal sheet)

↪ Step 18: Turn On work power and adjust sound sensing sensitivity to enjoy the LED Flashing Glasses

↪The back side of my PCB and the backside within the glasses frame

IMG_0173.MOV

↪ Video of turned on, working LED glasses

IMG_9540.MOV

↪Video of me wearing my LED glasses

Problems:

One problem I encountered while soldering was in step 13, where I installed a battery holder on the wrong side. Step 12 had asked us to install the Toggle Switch on the backside of the PCB board. When moving on to the next step, I forgot to flip the PCB board back again. To resolve this, Mrs. Morrow and I used a solder sucker to remove the solder and the battery holder. However, there was still some residual solder left inside, which interfered with the rest of this step. We had to then use the solder sucker again to suck more solder out so the correct battery holder was able to be installed.

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