Use woodworking machines (table saw, lathe, ) to make our own ink pen
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Setting up the saw
Mr. Dubick's example
Green light needed to begin
I reached/didn't step forward
Turn CCW to raise the saw
This time I stepped into it
Troubleshoot desired length
Two cut pieces of wood
Challenges
In cutting my first piece of wood, I used my arms to reach and push it through the saw, as opposed to stepping into the cut. This might have led to a minor, insignificant chip on the edge of one of my wood pieces. Mr. Stone suggested that I take a step as I cut and by the second cut it was easier and less awkward.
Safety:
Make sure you have taken appropriate safety measures:
1. Wearing a face shield, safety glasses, and earmuffs
2. Securing loose clothing, jewelry, or hair. To the best of your ability
3. Ensure your work area is clean, well-lit, and free from obstructions
4. Inspect the lathe for any damage or unusually loose components
5. Familiarize yourself with the emergency stop mechanisms.
Workflow:
1. To put your wood on the lathe, use the chuck key to loosen the jaws of a lathe chuck that holds the workpiece by turning clockwise
2. Rotate, align, and adjust your wood so that it fits in the jaw and is centered where you want to drill a hole
2.1 Make sure the wood piece is not entirely flush with the back and has a distance of 1-1.5 in away from it. This is so you will be able to easily see when the drill goes through the wood completely and has an alternate benefit for step 11
3. Once satisfied, use the same chuck key to hold the workpiece by turning it counterclockwise
4. Unlock the body of the drill by turning the side lever from pointing up to being loosely downturned
5. Move the drill so that it is touching the wood, if not done so already when checking if it aligns with your marked point of contact
6. Turn the handle towards you until the lathe's measure at the top reaches 1.5 inches (varies depending on the length of the wood)
7. When satisfied, re-lock the body of the lathe
8. Press the switch so that the lathe turns on. At this point, the wood should be turning
9. Turn the handle of the lathe away from you, faster to suit the speed you want the wood to turn and how quickly you want the process to be
10. Once the drill has gone completely through the wood, or to whatever length you wanted, turn the switch off
11. Once the wood completely stops spinning (will take a few seconds), unlock the lathe and push it out of the wood
11.1 Alternatively, if you left enough space from the back of the lathe in the beginning, you could do step 12 first, make it easier to remove the wood and not have to pry it off
12. Use the chuck key to loosen the jaws of the workpiece again, enough so to remove your wood
13. Inspection of the drilled wood for accuracy and quality after removing it from the lathe, which hopefully has been drilled to your specifications!
Cleaning:
1. Unplug the lathe to ensure safety during cleaning
2. Remove any wood shavings, dust, and debris from the lathe and surrounding areas
3. Inspect tools and drill bits, cleaning them of debris
4. Store everything properly
The lathe and a helmet
Measure to 1.5 in, turn to 6 in
Turning the lathe
Both blocks done
Challenges
For my first block, I placed it too close to the end of the lathe, and so my view of whether the drill went through was obstructed. I also forgot about moving the lathe to 1.5 in, turning it to 6 in, so I ended up with the drill unable to go fully through. I had to stop the machine, unlock the drill's body, and turn its handle to decrease the amount it had gone through in order to accomodate more space for it to go through the rest of the block. I continued drilling and it worked fine.
Need less than 80 grit sandpaper
Abrade the brass tubes until scratchy
Pour superglue into each drilled hole
Insert tubes and spray with activator
Challenges
My initial approach for securing the brass tubes with superglue involved applying the adhesive to the interior surface of the drilled wooden cylinder and then sliding the tube into place, relying on the pressure of insertion to expel excess glue, which I would force out by tapping the wood on the table. I later found that my methods did not remove all the superglue, resulting in lumps within the interior of the brass tube, which rendered it unusable.
To fix this issue, I used a hand drill to remove the excess glue, which Mr. Stone helped me through. In retrospect, I realized a more effective method would have been to apply the superglue onto the exterior of the brass tube before inserting it into the wooden hole.
Wood 1 blockage
Wood 2 blockage
Not fully passable
The drill worked
Wood 1 goes through
Wood 2 goes through
Secured my wood on the mandrel using bearings
Mr. Dubick helped me start it out by rounding them
Wood Turner's polish
End result
If it catches a lot, tighten the bearing even more
Finished woodturning
Used Wood Turner's polish to clarify the colors
It ended up rather thin
Tightening the bearing
Sanded going from 600-800-1000-1500-2000
Added a little bit to paper
Challenges:
In the beginning, Mr. Dubick reminded me that I was holding the chisel the wrong way. I needed to have my finger guiding under it throughout the shaving. I also had the chisel turned at an angle in the beginning, when it should have been parallel to the wood.
Using the pen press for assembly
Pressing the pen
Pen fully pressed
Pushing the thrust tube in
Screw thread of the barrel
Screw thread of the rotating part
Screwing in the rotating part
Fully assembled pen
Video of pen working