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CNC Machine Reading
The CNC machine needs to be aided by CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software. Shopbot was built and was designed to be an affordable CNC machine that could be used by schools. A CNC machines needs computer programming to operate. It needs a digital design which should be created in CAD(Computer-Aided Design) software and translate it into machine-readable instructions. The instructions are sent to the ShopBot's controller and make the cutting tool to follow the design and work on the material. G-code or geometric code is used to control the movement of CNC machines like ShopBot. G-code is important to the operation of CNC machines because precise and complex movements need G-code. By using G-code, CNC machines such as ShopBot are able to create complex shapes and cuts with great accuracy. For the cutting tools, there are drill bits and router bits to cut and shape materials. The drill bits are used to make holes in materials and router bits are used to create shapes and patterns.
angel using the jointer.movWe first used the wood jointer to sand down the edges of the wood because they were bumpy. Two people held the wood and Ms. Morrow helped move the wood through the machine. Then we flipped the wood and do the same thing to the other edge as well.
Step 1: Designing in CorelDraw
First, I was sure that I would make a dog and cat in the center, representing my two pets at home. I went through the Internet and found several images that I liked and chose the ones that were almost the same as the contour of my dog and my cat.
I copied and pasted the two images into CorelDraw and change the image to bitmap so that they could be engraved on my wood board later.
After I converted the images into Bitmap, both of them were double lined. I then used the Virtual Segment Delete tool to delete the inner line because the outer line are more rounded. If I wanted to use ShopBot machine to engrave my design, then it was better to have a rounded contour.
For the outline of the cat, it got a little bit trickier. I tried to use the Virtual Segment Delete tool to delete the inner line as well. However, the outer line and the inner line were connected with each other. If I deleted the inner line, the outer line would also be deleted. So I use the Spline tool to connect the to connect the inner line and the outer line to make a close shape of the outline. Then I managed to use the Virtual Segment Delete tool to delete the line that I didn't want.
This is the final design of my board. I used different colors to create layers when deep engraving. I also put names of my dog and my cat around the flower ring.
Step 2: Testing the design on the cardboard
IMG_1368.MOVThe video of laser cutting the design on cardboard
Final Product of the design on cardboard
(The layer of the cat didn't show on the cardboard very well.)
Step 3: Deep Engraving on the wood board using Laser Cutter
IMG_1407.MOVVideo of deep engraving the design onto the wood board
The final product of deep engraving
Step 4: Designing and Setting up in Aspire
First, I did job setup. The Job Size needed to be the same size as my board, so I used a calliper to measure the width, the length and the thickness of my board and put the data into the Job Setup. I changed the the Z Zero Position into Machine bed. Then the job setup was done.
After I finished designing the handle in Aspire, I started to set up the Toolpath for cutting. The Cur Depth should be the thickness of the board plus 0.01 inch. The Tool also needed to change to the 1/4 bit. The Passes also need to be added to that the part that was cut wouldn't fly all over the engineering room. After saving the tool path, I save the toolpath in a single file so that I could use it directly.
Design of the Handle
I used the Circle tool and Line tool to design the handle. I first used the Circle tool to create two circle with same radius and same x-position. Then I used the Line tool to connect the tangent of the two circles on each side. Because the Geometric Snap function was on, which made it easier to find the tangent on the circles. Then I used the Interactive Trim tool to trim the excessive part that I didn't want. Then a handle was completed.
Preview of Toolpath
IMG_1366.MOVWork Flow for using ShopBot
Video of Cutting the Handle using ShopBot
IMG_1390.MOVAfter cutting the handle, I used a hammer and a scraper to cut off the tab that connected the excessive part and the board. Then I sanded the handle using the sand paper to make the knobs remained on it disappear.
Step 5: Pouring resin
First two things I poured the resin on was the dog patter and the cat pattern. The ratio between the resin and hardener was 1:1. I stirred the resin and the hardener until the mixture started to warm up. Then I poured the pigment in to change the color. I chose to do yellow for my cat and white for my dog. Because there were layers on the cat pattern, I poured the yellow resin in the hole until the level of the resin was the same as the first layer. After it dried the next day, I poured the see-through resin onto the cat pattern to fill up the gap. Next, I decided to pour the resin into the flower ring. I covered the names with the tape so that the resin wouldn't be accidentally poured into the name. I chose the color green to pour the flower ring.
IMG_1460.MOVI used the hot gun to clear the bubble in the resin.
After the green resin dried, I took off the tape covered on the names. However, the resin covered part of the names. So I had to use the planer to sand the excessive resin away and make the names appear fully. Then I pour the resin for the names. The colors matched with the color of my dog and my cat.
The board after sanding the resin
Board after pour the resin into names
Step 6: Sanding the Board
Machines used to sand
Jointer
Router
IMG_1462.MOVIMG_1468.MOVThe jointer was used to sand the the excessive part of resin away and make the board flat. Every time, I spun the wheel to level up the platform so that the jointer could away a thin layer of my board. I repeated the process several times, then the board became flat.
I used the router to round the edges of the board.
The board after sanding using the jointer
Video of using Orbital Sander
IMG_1464.MOVThe jointer could only sand the whole board. After this, I needed to use the orbital sander to sand specific part of the board. There's some resin remaining on the board. I used the orbital sander to sand the remaining resin away.
Board after using the orbital sander
Step 7: Finishing Up the Board
Wetting the Board
After finishing sanding, I needed to wet the board. The purpose of wettings the board is to make the board water-proof. The board after drying became rough. I used the orbital sander to sand the board once again. Then my board was ready to oil.
Video of me oiling the board
IMG_1469.MOV
Final Product After Oiling
Problem Encountered
IMG_1386.MOVThe first time I deep engraved my design on the cutboard, I didn't focus right using the laser cutter. So the pattern it cut was not centered. Ms. morrow and I decided to sand the pattern away and redo the pattern onto the board. I used the planer to sand the pattern away and ran the laser cutter again. The second time it went very well.
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