Board to be Wild 

Introduction to the Project

This project's goal was to create a charcuterie wooden board that was milled by a shopbot larger super miller and filled with resin. I needed to cut out the piece of wood I wanted, create my design, mill the design, pour the resign, and sand the entire thing. 

Day one: We all got out pieces of wood and used a joiner to create flat edges and surfaces. After that, we cut them 13 by 11 inches long. We used a desk saw to cut it on both sides. 

Day 2: We started to design our designs on Correl Draw.  For my design, I used a signature symbol from a TV show known as Avatar the Last Air Bender. I made the measurements of the design the size of my board and included the area that I would not mill because of a physical deformity. 

Day 3: I brought the design a background remover to get rid of the white background and sent it all into Correll Draw. I used the trace bitmap feature and Logo to create the outline for my Toolpath. This would be the area that the drill would cut through to create my design. Of course, this is only the 2d version so there is no depth just yet. 

Day 4: I learned that some parts of my design are too small for the drill bit and I need to widen the areas that are too close together. I used a 0.125 by 0.125 circle to cut out any areas that were too tinny using the virtual segment delete tool. 

Day 5: We had a day in class devoted to learning how to use Aspire, including creating the boards properties, creating toolpaths, and editing these toolpath's correctly. 

Day 6: I imported my design from Corel Draw into Aspire after deleting the outline of my board because the dimensions of the setting will be off the board, but I had to account for part of the wood being unmillable and not being able to put my design an inch near the edge of the wood. 

Day 8: I ran the simulation for my wood pocket designs to see the final result. 

Day 9: We exported the singular pocket file as a .sbp file and exported the entire file using a crv3d file so that the milling shop bot machine can correctly use each file to create my design. BOTH OF THESE ARE EXTREMLY IMPORTANT FOR FUTURE REFRENCE TYLER. Then with Mrs. Morrow's help I uploaded the files and put the wood blocks in. The reason we had an inch of clearance is because to hold it down the wooden blocks need an inch of space. 

Day 10: After creating the milled-out area, I needed a way to pour the resin into the deformed areas of the wood. To do this I laser cut six pieces of plastic with the correct dimensions and height to create a wall around both the areas that will be borders for the resin. I used tape and hot glue to keep the plastic walls in place. 

RESIN PROCESS VERY EASY

Problems I encountered: The biggest problem I encountered was creating the resin walls. I unfortunately used the wrong settings on the laser cutter and unintentionally remelted the plastic together after cutting creating a little bit of some toxic fumes. To resolve this I shut the laser cutter lid immediately and let it air out and then I put the correct setting in and recut.