A Cold Solder

This project was creating sound-responsive LED light glasses. When the microphone picks up any sound, the LED lights should flash. This project's purpose was for me to learn how to correctly and efficiently solder.  It was assigned to me and the rest of my class because our teacher Mrs. Morrow wanted us to create something interesting and new for homecoming. I tried to finish my design before the dance and I was successful, I wore my design to the pep rally and homecoming as seen. The intended outcome of the project was for me to learn how to solder correctly and have my own pair of light-up glasses. 

Step 1. I installed the Mega-Ohm Resistor on the front side of port R8. I stuck the two wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the two holes on the back 

2.  I installed three 10 Kilo-Ohm Resistors on the front side of ports R6, R7, R9. I stuck the two wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the two holes on the back 

 3. I installed five 1 Kilo-Ohm resistors on the front side of ports R1, R2, R3, R4, R5. I stuck the two wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the two holes on the back 

4.  I installed the MIC-6022 Microphone on the front side of port R8, with the positive end of it on the higher side of the two. I stuck the two smaller wires in the back and soldered the two holes on the back.

 5. I installed fifty 3mm LEDs on the front side of ports D1-D50 with the correct polarity. I knew the correct polarity by knowing that the longer wire or the positive wire goes on the top of the two ports. I stuck the two wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the two holes on the back.

6.  I installed the 0.1uF 104 Ceramic Capacitor on the front side of port C3 with the correct polarity. I stuck the two wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the two holes on the back 

 7. I installed the ZIP-9 KA2284 LED Driver on the front side of port U1. I paced it with the indent on the left side and the writing on the front as I was directed to. I stuck the nine wires in the back and soldered the nine holes on the back 

 8. I installed the TO-92  S9014 on the front side of port  Q1 on the correct side as seen by the outline on the board. I stuck the three wires in the back and soldered the three holes on the back 

9. I installed two 10uF Electrolyte Capacitors on the front side of ports C1 and C2 with the correct polarity. I stuck the two wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the two holes on the back 

10.  I installed the 10 Kohm 103 Potentiometer on the front side of port RP1 with the correct positioning based on the outline on the board. I stuck the three wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the three holes on the back. 

11.  I installed the 5Pin Sk1D07 Toggle Switch on the back side of port S1 with the switch tipping over the top of the board. I stuck the five wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the five holes on the back.

12.  I installed two battery holder-positive metal sheets on the front side of the top port on the left side and the bottom port on the left side of the board. I stuck the two wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the two holes on the back.

13. I installed two battery holder-negative metal sheets on the front side of the bottom port on the left side and the top port on the left side of the board. I stuck the two wires in the back, bent them on the outside, and soldered the two holes on the back.

 14. I installed the PCB into the silver mirror frame with close attention to the toggle switch peeking through the correct spot.  

15. I installed 8 black PA 1.5*5 Screws into the correct slots to fix the PCB into the silver mirror frame. 

16. I installed 2 23A 12V batteries into the two correct slots on either side with special attention to the positive and negative sides being placed with the batteries into the slots. 

18. Turn on the switch and adjust the sensitivity to get your desired settings.