Dear all,

What a journey it has been!  We rode 71 miles yesterday right through the heart of Savannah and out to the eastern seaboard another 18 miles down the road.  All day the sky had been threatening rain (it was supposed to be sunny!) and just as we got to the historic district of Savannah, the heavens opened up and poured rain on us!  We ducked under the eaves of a hotel to wait it out and then headed for Tybee Island, the end of our trip.  The cycling was very flat and cut through the estuaries to the east of Savannah.  These estuaries are home to shellfish, particularly oysters, many fish, and birds such as pelicans, egrets and ibis.  They are also  a habitat for loggerhead turtles and apparently these turtles are known to cross the highway!

By the time we arrived at the Tybee Island Pier, just before sunset, we were pretty giddy with the realization we had made it!  We were laughing pretty hard and all weariness of the day's ride was gone!  There were a few people on the pier when we came to it and when they heard our story of riding there from Seattle, they clapped and plied us with questions and congratulatory wishes.  It was really nice.  

Last night we celebrated with a terrific seafood dinner and today, we bicycled back the 18 miles to Savannah, where we will stay for 5 days to rest, check out this city and celebrate.  We will then fly back to Portland, Oregon on the 23rd,  in time to spend Christmas with our families. 

The past three months of the rhythmically slow, and uncluttered way of life has been very good for us.  Our doctors had told us  before we left, that this trip is the best thing for us --  great for both our physical and mental health, and it has been!  Being in nature every day, getting fresh air, allowing our minds to reflect on life without the interference of technology, seeing new places, talking to the people we meet along the way and hearing their stories has been magic.  

We feel like we understand so much more about this country of ours and the people who make it up and have come to really cherish what this country and her people are.   Yes, there are a few folks that were annoying in their blaring of horns or driving too close to us, but they were surprisingly very few.  The vast majority of people have been courteous, patient, and friendly.  Yes, there are things about America we experienced and were hard to witness.  Poverty, homelessness, lives destroyed by drugs, signs of hate, and way too much trash thrown out on the sides of roads.  I still hope we can be a better country than those things.  

And yet, every day of our journey brought us something new and extraordinary -- places of stunning beauty and moments when nature surprises you.   I have loved the days we found roads so removed from traffic that we could hear the birds singing and the frogs croaking.  We have felt the warmth of the sun, the bite of winter, the chill of a hard rain, and it has been a true gift to have been able to experience it all.  

As for our bicycles, we are boxing them up and flying them home with us, so they will be ready for our next adventure, whatever it is.  We do know we have come to love this nomadic life, this going slow,  this exploratory experience,  so much so, that we will be doing more bike touring in the future.  And when we do, we will start up this blog again.  Until then...

Love,

Molly

Hello everyone!

This is one of the last postcard entries of this cross-country journey.  I am admittedly both excited and sad to be sitting just 70 miles away from our final destination tonight. I’m excited because we have both worked so hard for this moment, and it feels like a real accomplishment.  I’m sad because this amazing experience will soon be over.  I also feel a sense of loss because my father is no longer here to see me finish this. I know he would be proud.

Most of all, I have deep feelings of gratitude. Gratitude for the opportunity to experience this journey and the many people and places across the U.S. that have made an indelible impact on us. Gratitude to my husband, who has planned such an amazing itinerary and navigated us all the way from Seattle to Savannah. And gratitude to my family for their understanding and support of this goal that I really wanted to pursue.

It was fitting that today’s ride coincided with the return of the sun. In fact, the temperatures warmed so much that we shed our winter layers and found ourselves back in biking shorts and short-sleeved jerseys—something we haven’t done for a month! 

The hills have almost disappeared as we approach the eastern shoreline, replaced by swamps, pine forests, cotton fields, and pecan and peach orchards. Evidence of Hurricane Helene’s passing is still visible, with uprooted trees and those snapped off by the winds. Yet, it was a gorgeous day and ride.  

Tomorrow, we will ride about 70 miles to get to the coast. Ironically, we will bike right by or even through Savannah, but to reach the coast, we must ride an extra 17 miles to a place called Tybee Island, as Savannah is on the river and not on the actual coastline. We will write our next to final postcard at Tybee and then provide a final summary when we return to Savannah to end our trip.

Until then…

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

I’ve been struggling to find the words for today’s ride, but all I can come up with is "enchanting." There was a sense of wonder and a strange magical quality to the experience. When we started our journey, I was mesmerized by the orchards and farmland we passed through in the Pacific Northwest. Today, I had a very similar experience riding through the cotton plantations and the peach and pecan orchards of the Southeast.

We have spent most of our journey riding through the agricultural belt of the country, and I have developed a deep admiration and respect for the hard work that people have done throughout American history to produce the food and clothing we rely on every day. Modernity has encroached upon and created challenges for what used to be family farms feeding and clothing our nation, but the legacy of agriculture as the foundation of this country remains to be seen and learned from.

Today, being our last day before reaching the Atlantic Ocean, was clear, warm, and gorgeous. We were able to shed our winter gear and ride as if it were the start of our journey—shorts, sleeveless jerseys, and no more cold-weather booties on our feet. After battling the cold, rain, and wind over the past few weeks, today felt like a gift as we drifted along country roads in 70-degree temperatures. Tomorrow, we will enjoy similar weather as we cycle to the sea and our second-to-last destination, Tybee Island.

Love, 

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

The moody sky set the stage for today’s ride. We started out with gray, overcast skies and cool temperatures. The climate and landscape are beginning to change as we ride southeast toward Savannah. The first part of the ride was rather mundane, with little change in surroundings—just undulating small hills that reminded me of riding through Oklahoma. I spent a great deal of time reflecting on the sights, sounds, and interactions I’ve experienced since leaving Seattle. Over the course of this journey, I have developed a deep sense of pride, appreciation, and gratitude for the natural and social fabric of our country, and I honestly don’t quite know what to make of it all, at least not yet.

My personal reflection of the morning transitioned to awe at the force of nature. As we rode southeast through large cotton plantations, the devastation from Hurricane Helene became more apparent. We saw toppled tree tops, fallen trees and destroyed homes. It’s hard to imagine winds that can reach such intensity. Witnessing the devastation firsthand and considering the effort necessary for families and communities to recover is humbling, and we send our hopes and best wishes to all who have been impacted by Hurricane Helene.

Tomorrow, we’re off to Statesboro, home of Georgia Southern University and our last stop before we arrive at the Atlantic Ocean.

Love,

Andy

Dear all, 

Today was eerie. Partly because of the gray skies, partly due to the swampy land, and partly because we passed thousands of acres of clearcuts that made the landscape look like Armageddon. We hardly saw anyone on the backroads we rode, and it appeared as though trees had been uprooted and scattered everywhere, a testament to the impact of Hurricane Helene back in September. The devastation from that storm is still very much evident throughout the counties we traveled through. 

Then, there were the cotton fields. Cotton fields in winter are a drab thing, if they have not been completely harvested.  The cotton droops on dead brown stalks, looking altogether wobegone.  Under a chill gray sky the effect is even more melancholy.  It was not at all difficult to visualize slaves of all ages bent over the stalks in the fields, toiling away, day after day in conditions no human should ever endure.   

The road itself was really nice.  The  rolling hills gave the ride sense of rhythm and flow.  I saw my first Spanish moss hanging from the trees, a tell-tale sign we are moving further south and east.  I also saw my first Palmettos among the pine undergrowth.  

 I find it hard to believe we are two days from finishing this journey we began in early September.  Watching the arrow on the map draw ever closer to the east coast  in such short increments day after day has certainly added up!   I think it is going to take quite some time to process all we have experienced.  It makes me very glad we have written this blog with intention to help us remember. 

Love,

Molly

Hi Everyone!

Last night, we stayed at the Historic Fitzpatrick Hotel in Washington, GA, as I mentioned in yesterday's postcard. I also noted that it has a reputation for being haunted and has been featured on the TV show, "Ghost Hunters." We had a beautiful corner room with a fireplace, a round turret sitting area, an old cast iron clawfoot tub, stained glass windows, a large walk-in closet, and... no ghost.

We did hear stories of people reporting lights and TVs turning off and on by themselves, thermostats adjusting drastically (too hot or too cold) without anyone touching them, cell phones blacking out and becoming unresponsive while in the room, and the sounds of bouncing balls from the floor above when no one was there. However, we slept just fine and loved our room and the hotel.

What was truly scary were the stories we heard last night at the Washington Tavern behind the hotel from the locals. We sat at the bar next to two gentlemen, who are best friends, our age, and have lived their whole lives in Washington.  The two of them began sharing all kinds of stories involving local timber rattlers and water moccasins, two very deadly venomous snakes common in these parts. As frightening as these stories were, we knew we were safe from those vipers since it is winter and they are hibernating. Whew!

Our ride today was once again gorgeous!  The northern Georgia countryside is some of the prettiest around.  We rode past many of the beautifully kept white antebellum homes and sprawling yards with big trees that evoke the movie, Gone With the Wind.   As we approached the town of Thomson, where we are staying tonight, we noticed an abnormal number of downed trees and branches.  Nearly every home had huge piles of wood and debris stacked next the roadside waiting for the county to help remove them.  We realized what we were seeing was the aftermath of Hurricane Helene which had caused so much damage back in September.  We were stunned to see how much impact that hurricane had so far inland, and the thought of  future storms, as our climate continues to change and ocean temperatures rise,  is the scariest thought of all. 

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Yes, the hotel is haunted, and although we personally did not experience any ghostly visits, there are many confirmed stories of sightings and previous guests walking out in the middle of the night due to paranormal experiences. These stories were corroborated by the hotel manager and the locals we met at the town's tavern and restaurant.

Our dinner last night turned out to be fun, lengthy, and definitely interesting. We sat next to a group of locals who have lived in Washington their whole lives. We had a great exchange of stories and experiences. They peppered us with questions and expressed their appreciation for our ride, and in return, we asked about life in Washington, Georgia. We had a blast!

While the haunted hotel is certainly a standout story, the tales about snakes and alligators were the most jaw-dropping! One that stands out involved a little trick played on a person sitting next to us. Several years ago, his friends hid a cottonmouth snake (yes, it's highly venomous) in a cooler that was supposed to be filled with cold beer. They tricked him into grabbing some beers from the cooler. You can guess what happened next! He opened the cooler, and the angry snake shot out, nearly biting him in the face. Fortunately, he jumped back just in time, avoiding the snake’s trajectory, and it scurried off into the Georgia pines. That was a story for the memory book, and yes, these guys are all still good friends. If you dare to have a look at a cottonmouth snake, click here.

With ghosts, snakes, and the kind locals of Washington behind us, we headed a short distance down the road to Thomson, Georgia—only 30 miles away. The ride was gorgeous, taking us along roads that wound deep into the forest. We saw only a handful of cars until reaching the city limits.

We are now only three bike rides away from the Atlantic Ocean. The feelings and emotions are indeed strange.

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

Athens, Georgia, is now one of my favorite places. It has it all—nature, great music, excellent beer, outstanding food, kind people, the best barbershop on the planet, and best of all, it’s a small town with the University of Georgia adjacent to the downtown area. It was a great stay, and admittedly, it was kind of hard to leave. Athens is another place we've discovered on this ride that we consider for a future home.

We left Athens this morning and had a pleasant ride through farmland and Georgia pines. The hills of the Appalachians are gone, and the terrain is fairly flat. It seems that the riding for the last few days of our journey will be similar to what we experienced today. We rode a total of 48 miles and arrived in the charming town of Washington, Georgia, home to amazing antebellum homes and the famous Kettle Creek Battlefield, where the Patriots defeated the Loyalists in 1779.

We are staying in the historic Fitzpatrick Hotel, and our room overlooks the central square. The hotel is said to be haunted, and Molly is a bit nervous about that, but I told her I would protect her. If we have any paranormal experiences, I’ll let you know tomorrow.

Georgia is truly a beautiful state, and it seems we may have saved the best state for last.

Love, 

Andy

Dear All,

We have begun our final push to the Atlantic Coast after having a couple of nice days exploring Athens, GA.  Athens is one of the great university towns that has everything:  great parks, beautiful neighborhoods, a rail to trail greenway network, a fantastic arts and music scene, and good southern cuisine.  We've already decided we would love to come back!

When we left Athens this morning, we were still in some pretty hilly country. (Interesting fact:  Athens, GA was named for Athens, Greece because they are both built on 7 hills!) However, as we pedaled further east, the hills gradually became less steep and more intermittent.  The soil itself is becoming more sandy, sometimes red, sometimes white.  The trees we now see are predominantly the Georgia pines and Chinquapins.  I love the pines.  They are so green and vibrant among the drab of the winter hardwoods.  They are also wonderfully fragrant, like riding by fields of Christmas trees! 

Tonight we are staying a great little historic town called Washington, GA which was established in 1780.  It has the greatest per capita old antebellum (pre-Civil War) homes that have been kept up and are gorgeous.  The hotel we are staying in, The Fitzpatrick, is also an old historic hotel and has been rumored to be haunted!  Stay tuned to see if we have any paranormal experiences, especially since today is Friday the 13th!

Love,

Molly

Hi Everyone!

Fog, mist, drizzle, rain, downpour, floods -  we experienced all of these today en route to Athens, Georgia.  We knew it would be a risky day to bike and almost didn't, but we did not want to sit in Cornelia when Athens, a vibrant university town, was just 50 miles down the road.  So we bundled up in our rain gear and set out when the early morning dense fog lifted above ground level so we could see and be seen.  Unfortunately, our first few miles of riding were upwards in elevation, which took us back into the thick of the clouds, nearly to the point of a white-out.

Fortunately, this did not last long. We descended below the clouds and enjoyed a great first two hours of riding through the mist along perfect country roads, flanked by fields and woods, old abandoned farm houses and barns, and newer holiday-decorated homes that suggested cozy warmth and family. The woods are now barren, except for the beech trees that still clung to their pale brown leaves, which seemed to glow in the mist.

At about 1:00 PM, the sky darkened significantly, as if the sun were setting. I knew then that we were in for it. Sure enough, the rain began in earnest just a few minutes later—not a gentle rain, but a true gully washer! Except for our gloves, which became waterlogged sponges, we were amazed at how well our rain gear held up against the downpour. Unfortunately, my eyes were not protected from the rain, and I found myself nearly blinded time and again as the rain drove into my face while I pedaled along.

Several times we sought refuge from the rain under the eaves of gas stations, stores, and even the security gate island at a chemical plant, waiting for the worst to pass. In the end, we just decided to push through, climbing the last 20 miles of hills against the wind along a most appropriately named "Nowhere Road", and we made it to Athens. We are very glad to be here, especially since the rain is expected to worsen tonight, and lowland flood warnings are already in effect. We're relieved to be safe, sound, and dry in Athens, and we intend to enjoy some well-deserved time off before our final push to the Atlantic Ocean and Savannah!

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

After checking the weather apps, Meteorologist Molly determined that today would be the best day to ride, considering the possibility of flooding on Wednesday. Laying over at a freeway hotel for one or possibly two days just didn’t feel like an option. Although it was almost a five-hour ride to Athens, Georgia, and we knew we would get wet along the way, we decided it was worth riding today—especially knowing we were heading for the cool town of Athens and would have at least one day off for rest, relaxation, and exploration before tackling the final stretch to Savannah.

Bob Marley wrote, “Some people feel the rain. Others just get wet." Today, we felt the rain, and by the end of the day, we were tired and admittedly a bit wet. There was something magical about the ride, and like many of our rides, it was a true yin yang experience. We started with no rain, heavy cloud cover, and relatively warm temperatures. The beginning of our ride felt good and rhythmic. Then, as we ascended, we rode into a dense fog, which limited visibility and felt a bit daunting.  After that, we had the most amazing descent out of the fog and into the pastoral countryside, a landscape we hadn’t seen since we started our ride in Washington. About two hours into the ride, the sky significantly darkened, and the rain began to fall—without stopping. The warm southern temperatures, combined with the heavy rain, felt refreshing as we glided through the backroads of northern Georgia. By the time we reached Athens, we were completely soaked, but we arrived safe and sound, grateful for what turned out to be a unique and, for the most part, enjoyable ride.

Love,

Andy

Dear all,

We have hit our final big milestone before the end:  Reaching Georgia - our 12th and final State!  It seems pretty incredible, and yet, here we are!  Mind you we still have a long way to go...Georgia is a big state and we are only about 15 miles over the border from Tennessee, but we are here.  

The day was cold again, especially in the morning.  The good news is that it was sunny and the temperatures did warm to 50 degrees!   We rode along the Ocoee River in Eastern Tennessee, known for it's white water rapids, rafting, and kayaking.  We even passed the 1996 Summer Olympic Kayaking Event site.  It is still decorated with the flags of many countries.  It was cold enough that we saw pools of water frozen along the stream bed and huge icicles hanging along the cliffs where water had been seeping downward.

Our ride was quite hilly... Andy says we climbed over 3000' today, and my legs, neck and shoulders feel it.  Tomorrow is supposed to involve even more climbing but I am looking forward to our next destination:  Helen, Georgia.  It is said to be a charming Bavarian town in the Appalachian Mountains, beautifully decorated for Christmas.  

Tonight, we are staying in Blue Ridge, a cool mountain town that attracts many tourist for it's local hiking, water sports, and charming downtown area of shops and restaurants.   The railway that runs through town is part of the Blue Ridge Scenic Railway and is known as the "Hook and Eye" due to two very tight curves the tracks make:  one in a horseshoe shape (the hook) and one in a loop as it climbs upward (the eye.)

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

We had a great rest in Chattanooga despite the bitter cold. We had the opportunity to walk around the city and enjoy the sights, such as the famous Chattanooga Choo Choo, as well as enjoy the food, and music. 

We took the Lookout Mountain Incline Railway to the top of the mountain and visited the site of the Battle of Lookout Mountain, also known as the Battle Above the Clouds, which took place during the Civil War. It felt a bit eerie walking through the area, considering the cold weather and reflecting on the fighting and the overall human impact of the war.

Today, we set off for what we know will be the most challenging section of our ride. The cold was intense and tested our limits. We thought we had experienced the worst of it when we rode into Chattanooga, but today’s temperatures were frigid. We had to delay our start until 11:00 AM, when the temperature finally rose to 32 degrees Fahrenheit (yes, for our readers in Hong Kong, that’s 0 degrees Celsius—COLD!). The temperatures today never passed 38 degrees  Fahrenheit  Today’s ride took us to Ocoee, TN. From Ocoee, we will begin significant climbs within the Appalachians. Tomorrow, we will climb over 3,000 feet to the town of Blue Ridge, Georgia, and then on Sunday, we will ascend over 4,300 feet to Helen, Georgia. From there, the riding becomes much more forgiving.

We have a tough few days ahead of us, but the good news is that it’s going to start warming up. The bad news is that with the warmer temperatures, rain is in the forecast. This keeps Meteorologist Molly very busy. Until tomorrow...

Love,

Andy

Hello Everyone!

We are back! We spent two days in Chattanooga, chattering our teeth in the low temperatures (with the wind chill, it dropped into the teens!). Despite the cold, we managed a few city walks along the riverfront and in the Southside Historic District.  We also had the opportunity to enjoy some good bluegrass music, which hails from the Appalachian area.

We also took the incline railway up to Lookout Mountain, where you can see seven states: Tennessee, Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, and Kentucky. It's a renowned spot for its viewpoints and Civil War battlefields. The railway itself is famous for being one of the world's steepest passenger railways, with a 73% grade, climbing 1,500 feet to the top of the mountain in just a mile. The U.S. National Park Service has a great exhibit at the top that describes the sieges and battles of Chattanooga, which was a turning point in the Civil War, as they provided Union armies access to the deeper South. It was mind-boggling to think about how battles were fought on the mountain while we rode the rail car along the steep slopes of Lookout Mountain.

Today we rode 40 miles east of Chattanooga to the tiny town of Ocoee along some busy country highways.  It was so cold that we didn't even want to stop for a water or food break.  Our feet and hands would get much colder whenever we stopped, even for a minute to check our directions.  The cold weather is expected to last a couple of more days, but then it should warm up to 60 degrees!  Unfortunately, that warmth will also bring a few days of rain, so riding will continue to be a bit rough as we work our way through the Appalachians.  

Love,

Molly

Hi all!

Don't let the sunny blue sky in the photos I took today fool you... it was COLD today! The big freeze that is hitting all across the north and east of the U.S. is hitting here, too.  We knew we were in for it last night when we hiked the 2.5 miles down the bluff to our hotel from where we had dinner 1000 feet above.  It was so cold, there were tiny dry flakes of snow drifting down! Our first (and hopefully only) snow of the trip.

We were bundled with all our layers today.  When we rode in the sun, we were just fine.  However, we rode along the Tennessee River for quite some time, climbing along the lee side of a bluff in the shade, keeping us chilled despite the climbing.  Then, the wind chill factor on the big downhills froze our poor fingers and toes, but that did not keep us laughing like little kids as we barreled down the long descents.

Despite the chill in our bones, we did see some incredible beauty today:  Sun filtering through the ambers, golds and reds of the woodlands and sparkling off the lakes and river we passed.  A synchronous splashing of geese taking off from the water of a lake as we rode by, spraying water in glistening cascades off their wings.  Two Great Blue Herons taking off in flight, spreading their huge wings with quiet grace when we startled them with the rhythmic sound of bikes in motion.  (I wish we got photos of them, but, alas, by the time you stop, pull your gloves off, get your phone on, the birds are long gone!) 

At the end of our ride today, we crossed into our final time zone:  The Eastern Time Zone!  We are now in Chattanooga, Tennessee, a stone's throw from Georgia.  We will stay here a couple of days and keep ourselves warm before tackling our last big hurdle;  the heart of the Appalachian Mountains.  

We will be back to let you know how it all goes on Friday, Dec. 6! May you all be warm and cozy yourselves, wherever you are!

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

The best ski days are those that are cold, cloudless, and occur just after a significant snowfall. They are called bluebird days because the sky is a deep blue, the sun shines brightly, and the color contrasts are vivid. Over the last week, especially today, we have experienced bluebird biking days that have been breathtaking, filled with vibrant fall colors and unforgettable vistas. These have been some of the best riding days of our trip.

However, today the cold was a bit too intense. Our gear has been effective in handling temperatures in the 40s, but today, the temperature didn’t even reach that mark; we were riding in the 30s. Not even the stark beauty of the landscape could ease the pain of the cold air penetrating our winter clothing, especially affecting our hands and feet. It's not just the temperature in the 30s that poses a challenge; when you encounter a long downhill, the wind chill factor kicks in, making it feel like the temperature is in the 20s or even lower.

Despite the freezing conditions, we enjoyed one long, hilarious downhill where we were both hooting, hollering, and laughing all the way down because it was genuinely fun; on days like these, it’s important to keep your sense of humor intact.

We arrived safely in Chattanooga, a city we are eager to explore. Over the next few days, we plan to rest and take in the view from Lookout Mountain, savor the local cuisine, and learn more about the Civil War, particularly the multiple battles that took place in Chattanooga. We will also evaluate our routes and weather for what will be the final major leg of our journey to Savannah.

We will be resting until Friday, so there will be no blog entries for the next couple of days. Until then!

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

Today was our last day in Alabama, and the state gifted us with one of the most epic rides of the trip. We had a short 38-mile ride on a day filled with crisp air, bright sunshine, and stunning blue skies, taking us through a maze of magical backroads in northern Alabama. Our layering technique kept us toasty warm, and we stopped often to take some of the most beautiful pictures of the entire journey. It was the kind of ride you simply never want to end.

The ride also provided a great space for reflection. We’ve now meandered through ten states: Washington, Idaho, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Tennessee, Mississippi, and now Alabama. Each state has offered its own unique aspects of what makes America. The people, landscape, culture, music, and lifestyle give each state its own identity, but they all coalesce into the country we are fortunate enough to call home. Experiencing this on a bicycle is a gift and, admittedly, a personally transformative experience.

Alabama, however, has been particularly special. I've had preconceived notions of places I have never been to, and in a weird way, these notions have become etched into my mind, creating a sort of false reality. Like many states or countries, Alabama has a turbulent history.  Yet, I  have learned that this should never stop me from appreciating the progress that has been made, as well as the rich beauty, culture, and kindness a place has to offer. Alabama is such a place, and the people we’ve met and the roads we’ve traveled will make it a destination I will hold fondly in my heart and one we will definitely return to. Thank you, Alabama, and all the wonderful people we’ve met along the way.

Tomorrow, we are off for a short ride to Chattanooga, TN, a place where we will spend a few days exploring. We are excited to check it out, as this region is quickly rising to the top of our retirement preferences.

Love,

Andy

Hi Everyone!

It was one of those days - absolutely beautiful and a perfect ride!  Cold?  Yes.  But our layers and the sun did their job of warming us up well.  We also started about an hour or so later than normal to give the temperature time to warm to 39 degrees.  

We rode only about 38 miles today, but what a 38 miles it was! We headed north up the Tennessee River valley taking backcountry roads through northern Alabama and into Tennessee.  The country roads were divine - seemingly effortless riding and beautiful vistas with every turn.  We found ourselves stopping constantly to take photos; in fact, it is really difficult to decide which ones to share!  We rode through wetlands, farmlands, woods, small towns, and even a few ghost towns.  We even had a few more games of chase with some playful doggies. 

We took a break at a field with a view of the wooded hills that was probably once a battlefield during the Civil War and basked in the sun.  The air was crisp and clear and the lighting amazing.  People waved and responded when we called greetings to them.  It really was one of our favorite rides of the trip.  

We are now back in Tennessee, about 30 miles west of Chattanooga, our next stop.  The town we are in, Kimball, is a typical freeway town with not much to see, nor places to eat.  We had heard of a place up above the town, 1000' up a bluff in a little community here that has a good restaurant and brewery.  So, despite the 40 miles of biking, despite the cold, we did not hesitate to hike up the bluff for a nice evening where we are now writing our blogs.  The views overlooking the Appalachians to the east and the Tennessee River below are stunning, especially as we were viewing them in the fading light of day and a brilliant sunset. 

Was it a good day?  You betcha!

Love,

Molly

Dear all,

We have been looking forward to this point in our ride:  reaching the Appalachian Mountains!  Today, we are just brushing the southern terminus of the range in northeastern Alabama. These mountains then run 1,500 miles all the way to Maine in the northeastern corner of the U.S.  Not everyone knows that these mountains are the oldest in the world!  They formed over 480 million years ago when the African and North American plates collided to form the supercontinent Gondwanaland along the equator.  When the range formed, the folded peaks rose to around 20,000 feet in elevation, but erosion and weathering over millions of years has reduced these peaks to the more rolling and lower elevations we see today, ranging from 1,200 to 6,600 feet.  

Today's ride included a steep climb over the one of the foothills of the Appalachians and I am sure we will face quite a few more over then next few days.  However, it is not the hills I am worried about, but the cold!  The temperatures are plummeting tonight into the 20's and will not climb above freezing until around 10 AM tomorrow.  We will be putting our winter gear to the test to say the least!

Love,

Molly

Dear Friends and Family,

Our ride through northern Alabama continued today. Unfortunately, there were few back roads, and we had to cycle on busy roads with drivers rushing home from Thanksgiving. The ride was a bit of a grind, except for the last 20 miles, which finally took us off the busy highway and onto country roads. As we approached Scottsboro, Alabama, the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains emerged, signaling that the next phase of our ride was about to begin.

While passing through Scottsboro, we rode by the courthouse where the Scottsboro Boys, many of whom were teenagers, were wrongfully convicted of rape and initially sentenced to death. This case and the subsequent appeals represent one of the most significant events in U.S. Civil Rights history. Seeing the actual courthouse where this story unfolded was powerful, and like many historical sites we have visited throughout our ride, history felt vivid and alive.

The cold air continues and is expected to last until the middle of the week. Our plan is to break our ride to Chattanooga into two shorter mid-day segments to avoid the extreme cold, and then take a couple of days off to explore Chattanooga and rest before crossing the Appalachians on our final stretch to Savannah.

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

We had an awesome day of rest and two musical evenings in Muscle Shoals, Alabama. We hoped to visit one of the music studios, but unfortunately, they were closed due to the Thanksgiving weekend. Instead, we spent most of the day evaluating our gear and looking for different routes to Savannah, considering the current cold snap expected to last at least until the middle of next week. We decided to buy liners for our gloves and an extra layer of clothing for riding.

The two evenings of music were exceptional, especially last night when we were treated to a remarkable Alabama blues artist, Microwave Dave. He was like a blues historian, weaving stories about great blues artists and the Rolling Stones’ 1969 Muscle Shoals recording sessions into his performance. It was a treat to listen to this amazing musician in such an intimate venue.

As we cycle through the South, the rides keep getting better and better. Northern Alabama is one of the most picturesque places I have ever cycled. The roads are well-paved, and there is a network of bike routes we've followed that have very little traffic. It was cold today, but with the extra gear we purchased yesterday, we stayed warm and enjoyed the crisp winter air and the clear blue sky above. We rode 50 miles and arrived in Athens, Alabama, well before sunset.

Tomorrow, we’re off to Scottsboro, AL. It’s a full day—almost 70 miles—so we will need every bit of daylight to get there before sunset. Once we arrive, we will decide whether to head northeast to Chattanooga, Tennessee, or due east to Rome, Georgia. We prefer Chattanooga, but the cold temperatures may lead us to go east to avoid the chill in the Appalachians. Until tomorrow!

Love, 

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

Being over 3,000 miles into the ride, waking up to a very cold, dark morning, and feeling the fatigue of my nearly 63-year-old body can make it tough to work out the stiffness and gear up for the day. Molly’s bright, positive, can-do attitude and humor usually make tough mornings easier, but sometimes we need extra encouragement and inspiration to save the day. Today was all about that.

It started with a breakfast filled with lively conversation among well-wishers who, after asking about our journey, sent us on our way with genuine kindness, appreciation, and support. We certainly needed that after launching ourselves into the gray sky, wet roads, and cold air. Thank you, Arlene and Jerry!

With a 70-mile ride ahead of us, we knew we would need every minute of daylight to finish the ride from Corinth to Muscle Shoals, Alabama. That’s where the fun began. Our route took us through the deep backroads of northern Mississippi, where we experienced stunning landscapes full with fall colors and undulating roads that would make any cyclist drool with awe and appreciation.

Then there were the multiple adrenaline-pumping games of chase with unleashed dogs—one particularly ferocious and fast dog got a bit too close for comfort. Shortly after, we encountered a mother dog and her litter of puppies that had somehow wandered onto this lonely stretch of road. Next, we had a wild downhill ride toward the Tennessee River, only to find a "road closed" sign at the bottom due to a section of road that had been washed away by flooding. This meant a long uphill climb to the main highway where we could cross, but with the pain of doubling back came the beautiful sight of egrets nesting in the trees along an Alabama shoal.

Afterward, the sun started to break through the clouds, the air warmed, and we found ourselves on a magnificent 10-mile section of the Natchez Trace Parkway. It was a dreamlike experience as we rode through lush landscapes and cotton fields along one of the best bike routes in the United States. However, the bliss and joy were balanced by the challenge of the last 14 miles to Muscle Shoals. Although beautiful, those miles brought fatigue as we faced a gradual uphill climb, and at the very end, some of the steepest climbs of the entire trip. Finally, we arrived just after sunset at our hotel, which is also home to Swampers, the famous music venue in Muscle Shoals. Phew! We made it with no daylight to spare!

The evening included a long, warm shower, a great meal, and awesome live southern rock music from a local Muscle Shoals band. The sweetest part of the evening came from my daughter, Natalie, who sent me a video of her singing Arlo Guthrie’s "Alice’s Restaurant," a satirical take on Thanksgiving and its aftermath. We used to sing that song together on long road trips when she was growing up, always cracking us up with laughter. The video made me truly appreciate that little girl who is now a beautiful grown woman with a heart filled with love, kindness, and joy.

Yes, today is Thanksgiving, and my heart is full of gratitude, thankfulness, and appreciation for the many gifts that accompany our life journey. Tomorrow is a much-needed day off, and maybe beyond, depending on the weather. Stay tuned!

Love,

Andy

Andy and a pack of ferocious dogs getting ready to attack! 🤣

Dear Family and Friends,

Today was another amazing ride along country roads. Riding on these roads provides a sense of peace compared to the heavily traveled routes that often have fast-moving cars and trucks, which can put any bike rider on edge. We’ve experienced both types of roads on this trip, and hands down, the country roads are the best.

However, there are risks on country roads that don’t necessarily involve cars and trucks. It often starts with the repetitive barking of one or multiple dogs. Then, they spot the approaching bicycles and accelerate, moving at high speeds toward you—sometime when you are climbing a steep hill at only 4 mph. Often, those dogs just want to play a joyful game of chase, but sometimes they are definitely in attack mode, charging at you as fast as they can. When that happens, it’s a bit terrifying, and an adrenaline rush pulses through your body as you try to move past them without reaching for your mace.

On our last couple of rides, we’ve encountered an inordinate number of unleashed dogs eager to take a bite out of your calf or, worse yet, your Achilles tendon. So far, we have no dog bites to report—knock on wood! The dog-chase experience is a lot like interval training, but without the predictability of timing between intervals. Despite the surge of fear that comes from being chased by dogs, the country road experience is magical and far preferred over the heavily traveled main roads and highways!

Our route today took us through gorgeous countryside from southwestern Tennessee to northwest Mississippi. We cycled near Civil War battlefields and supply lines, eventually arriving in Corinth, Mississippi, which was a key supply depot for Confederate troops and the site of the Battle of Corinth in 1862. It’s also just south of where the Battle of Shiloh took place, which resulted in a staggering 23,746 casualties in just two days. As you ride through this serene and pristine countryside, it’s hard not to imagine the ravages and horrors of the war that took place here from 1861 to 1865, where an estimated 698,000 soldiers lost their lives, leaving a nation permanently scarred.

Tomorrow, we are in for another very cold ride to Muscle Shoals, Alabama, where we plan to take at least one day off—maybe more, depending on the cold temperatures predicted for the weekend and early next week.

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

We spent the last two days off our bikes, exploring Memphis. The city is a confluence of history and music. Most of our time was spent walking the streets of Memphis, which felt like a time-travel experience. History is alive here, and you can experience it by visiting the Civil Rights Museum, touring music studios, checking out historical landmarks, and dining at famous establishments that hosted civil rights leaders and great musicians such as B.B. King, Al Green, Elvis, Johnny Cash, and Otis Redding.

We returned to the hallowed ground of the Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King Jr. was tragically assassinated, and visited Sun Studio, learning about the many famous recording sessions that took place there and continue to this day. Each night, we stayed up late on Beale Street, enjoying live music that celebrates and memorializes the past, performed by amazing and highly talented musicians. It was a lively, fascinating, and humbling couple of days.

This morning, we woke up fairly early since we had a 70-mile ride ahead of us, and there are only about eight hours of safe daylight for riding. The days are getting increasingly short and much colder. This morning was a good test of our winter gear, which can handle temperatures in the 40s, but when you factor in the wind, it just barely held up. Early on, it was quite cold, but it warmed up, and we had one of the most beautiful rides of the entire trip. Once we left Memphis, we were almost entirely on gorgeous west Tennessee country roads.

We arrived in the small town of Bolivar, where we are spending the night. Tomorrow, we cross into Mississippi, and the following day, we will head to Muscle Shoals, Alabama. The air is expected to get even colder by the end of the week, and we may need to stay put for a couple of days until the cold front passes. We will make that call in Muscle Shoals.

Love,

Andy

Hello everyone!

Today was a day for some major milestones!  First, we hit 3,000 miles!  Next we crossed the Mississippi River! and we are now in our 9th state:  Tennessee!  We will be staying a few days in our new location, the city of Memphis in the southwest corner of the state.  Memphis is famous for many reasons:  The Civil Rights movement of the 1960's as it is the location of the assassination of Martin Luther King, Jr.; Graceland - Elvis Presley's home; the rich tangy tomato-y Memphis BBQ; and, an incredible music heritage as the birthplace of the Blues.  Needless, to say, we will keep ourselves busy here over the weekend!

There are so many songs written about Memphis:  "Walking in Memphis" by Marc Cohn, "Back to Memphis" by the Black Crowes, "Memphis" by The Band, "Stuck Inside of Mobile with the Memphis Blues Again" by Bob Dylan, and the one I could not get out of my head all day as I pedaled:  "Memphis in the Meantime" by John Hiatt.  While we probably won't hear any of those songs this weekend, we will be sure to catch as much good music as we can over the next three days.  

As we rode toward Memphis today, we traveled through the bottomlands of rich silt deposits, famously known as "Mississippi Mud," from the Mississippi River and its tributaries. There’s something about these silts and muds that has a very familiar earthy odor, reminiscent of my childhood growing up outside St. Louis, 284 miles north of where I am now. It’s funny how our sense of smell can transport us back through time!

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Today was a pretty epic day. We clocked our 3000th mile, crossed the Mississippi River, and entered Tennessee, our ninth state. We arrived in Memphis, TN, where we'll be staying for three nights.

We've been to Memphis before and spent a significant amount of time visiting the National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel, the site where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated. I must say, this exhibition is one of the most powerful museum experiences I've ever had, and I highly recommend visiting if you ever get the chance.

Memphis is also a paradise for music lovers. Known as the home of the blues and the birthplace of rock 'n' roll, the music scene here is extraordinary. We're looking forward to wandering Beale Street and checking out the many cool music venues.

It will be nice to have a couple of rest days to explore attractions in Memphis that we missed the last time we were here. We'll also spend some time planning our route to Savannah and picking up better cold-weather gear at REI. Looking at the temperatures for the next ten days, we're definitely going to need it.  The rest is more than welcome as we’ve accomplished some challenging distances recently and the legs are tired! Until Tuesday!

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

We enjoyed our day off in Little Rock, AR, yesterday. We spent a good part of the day wandering through the Bill Clinton Presidential Library, which brought back a flood of memories. So many things that Molly and I did professionally were a result of Clinton-era educational policies. As young educators, we were able to use the internet to connect a group of schools from around the world to form an International Schoolhouse, where students collaborated over the internet and met in international summits to address the world’s pressing environmental problems. We also accessed Clinton-era initiatives to design and implement Oregon’s first charter high school. It was exciting to connect these cutting-edge educational policies to our work as teachers. The eight years that President Clinton served were also when we raised our young children, and walking through the exhibit brought back many cool memories.

After visiting the exhibition and reminiscing about the 1990s, we enjoyed a great Cajun dinner in downtown Little Rock and then went to Little Rock’s famous Rev Room to experience some genuine honky-tonk music. It was an awesome day and evening.

Today’s ride was a 70-mile journey that took us away from the Ozark region and into the Arkansas Delta. The transition between the two landscapes is quite striking. The first part of the ride took us through beautiful backroads, where we could enjoy the tranquil bird sounds of the delta. I would say this was our first true winter ride. It was downright cold when we set off this morning, and it only warmed up slightly as the day unfolded. With the wind chill, the temperature dropped into the 30s Fahrenheit! Brrr! Tomorrow will be more of the same. It’s a good thing we will arrive in Memphis, as we will need to get warmer clothing for our final December rides.

Love,

Andy

Hello all!

Brrrr! The weather has turned positively cold! We're down to 44 degrees in the mornings and only warming up to the mid-50s during the day. That might not seem too bad, but on a moving bike, it feels really cold! It looks like the chilly weather will stick around for a while, too. It might warm up a bit this weekend, but then temperatures are expected to plunge below freezing by the end of next week. We've realized we need better gloves—my fingers never did warm up today!  The good news is that the sun shone all day, and the winds were mostly at our backs, allowing us to complete our 70-mile ride just in time before sunset (around 4:30 PM).

We left the hills of Arkansas behind us as we rode out of Little Rock this morning and entered what is known as the delta lands. This area features flat topography, braided with many rivers that all drain into the mighty Mississippi River, just another 70 miles to the east. A satellite photo of this region clearly shows we are in the alluvial plain of the Mississippi. We rode for many miles through swamp land, with still, ink-black waters shaded by willow oaks, hickory, cypress, and tupelo gum trees. The land sits at around 300 feet above sea level—a long way down from the 7,000-foot elevations we experienced in New Mexico!  When we weren't in the swamp forests, we rode through the agricultural heartland of Arkansas, where cotton, rice, soybeans, wheat, and corn are grown.

This area is also known as one of the best winter habitats for migratory waterfowl, including tens of thousands of Canadian geese and hundreds of thousands of ducks. I even spotted a few Great Blue Herons among the reeds and watched them take off with surprising grace for such large birds! Tomorrow marks the beginning of duck hunting season, and hunters in camouflage gear are flocking (pun intended) to this area in hopes of bagging some geese and ducks. All evening, we heard folks practicing their duck calls. We'll be sure to wear our bright jackets and vests so we aren't mistaken for fowl!

Love,

Molly

Dear All,

We continued on our journey along the Heritage Trail and the Trail of Tears to Little Rock, the capitol of Arkansas.  For the most part we had a terrific tailwind carrying us eastward, which was why we attempted the 82 miles to get to Little Rock.  After riding 75 miles yesterday, and tackling so many hills, I found my energy reserves quite depleted!  Tonight, I admit, I am tired!  I am glad we are not riding tomorrow and will, instead, check out Little Rock and the Clinton Presidential Library.  

We have previously visited the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library in Boston, Massachusetts, and the Lyndon B. Johnson Presidential Library in Austin, Texas, and we loved both experiences. They do an excellent job of showcasing the history of each presidency, giving you a sense of what each president faced while in office. I have a feeling we’ll be going down memory lane tomorrow, as we were both young adults raising children during Clinton's two terms in the 1990s.

Little Rock sits on the southern banks of the Arkansas River.  We rode in from the northwest and our final few miles were along a fantastic river-front natural park. It was quite beautiful as the sun was beginning to drop in the west and it lit up the trees and rock banks of the river.  It was a great way to end a day that was long and at times frustrating due to traffic and a few "Kamoot" moments. 🤣

We will be back on Thursday after our day off in Little Rock!  Until then...

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Meteorologist Molly's forecast proved to be correct. With the exception of some swirling wind along the way, we mostly sailed from Russellville to Little Rock, AR. We completed the 82-mile ride in just under seven hours. It was not an easy ride; Komoot, our primary navigation app, provided a route that did not exist. We had to troubleshoot to find a better route, which we did. We also had to double back today because a train was stalled on the tracks. It was only a couple of miles, but on long riding days like today, it can be frustrating.

We encountered a few angry drivers who honked their horns and passed uncomfortably close to us at high speeds, even though we were riding along the shoulder of the road and safely away from traffic. It’s strange, as we only had problems with drivers a few times on our trip across the country, but in Arkansas, we’ve encountered “bike haters” more often than at any other point in our journey. Despite these nuisances, we crossed the bridge over the Arkansas River and made it to Little Rock.

We are looking forward to our day off. We need to spend more time planning our route as we start to zero in on Savannah, GA. It’s getting colder, and the days are significantly shorter. Today, at 4:30 PM, it was already getting dark, so the window for safe riding is closing. Future extended rides over 75 miles or more may need to be rerouted based on the available daylight hours. We also plan to fully explore Little Rock tomorrow. Until Friday…

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

Yesterday, the wind blew, the rain fell, and we stayed indoors in Alma, Arkansas, which happens to be located in a dry county where we can’t get beer except with dinner at the town’s popular Mexican restaurant, La Fiesta. Guess where we had dinner on both nights? 🙂. We made the most of the day off by doing some route planning and taking care of practicalities at home in Portland. Meteorologist Molly also worked her magic and determined that if we woke up early, we could make up for the lost day by doing two extended rides: the first, a 75-mile ride into Russellville, and the second, an 82-mile ride into Little Rock, AK. The weather today was perfect—clear, warm, and with zero wind. We wore short-sleeve jerseys and shorts; it actually felt like a summer day. Tomorrow will bring much colder weather, but it will be clear, and if Molly’s projections are correct, we should have a nice tailwind into Little Rock.

Our ride today took us through several small towns that most people probably wouldn’t have heard of: Alma, Dyer, Mulberry, Ozark, Altus, Cole Hill, Hartman, Clarksville, Lamar, Knoxville, London, and finally Russellville. Each of these towns, with a main street, a school, and multiple churches, has its own unique characteristics. It’s great to ride through each of them and experience their similarities and differences. Arkansas is very different from the other states we have ridden through. The cultural differences are fascinating and distinct from where I was raised in California and where I spent most of my professional life in Oregon. Oklahoma and Texas were also different, but Arkansas’s uniqueness is strangely captivating, and I look forward to learning more as I cycle through the state.

Tomorrow, we will head for Little Rock, home to the Bill Clinton Presidential Library and the Little Rock Nine Memorial, which commemorates the nine students who bravely enrolled in Little Rock Central High School after the 1954 Brown v. Board of Education decision outlawed segregation in public education. It wasn’t until 1957 that the nine students received protection to enroll. If you want to learn more, please click here. We plan to take the day off in Little Rock to visit both the memorial and the Clinton Presidential Library.

It’s going to be a long ride tomorrow. Fingers crossed that Meteorologist Molly’s projections are correct. Until tomorrow!

Love,

Andy

Dear all,

Today we cut through a section of the Ozark Mountains in northeastern Arkansas.  The Ozark Mountains have two main sections:  The northern section in Missouri and the southern section, known as the Boston Mountains in Arkansas.  These mountains were formed from the uplifting and subsequent erosion of sandstones and siltstones laid down in the shallow seas of the Paleozoic Era over 300 million years ago.  Today they are blanketed by forests and stretch 5,500 square miles.

The scenic highway 71, which cuts south from Fayetteville to Alma, Arkansas was originally nothing but rutted pathways on old Indian footpaths through the area.  It was part of the Trail of Tears system the Native Americans had to traverse to their reservation lands in Oklahoma.  It was also a pathway for armies to travel during the Civil War from the south up to Missouri. 

The hills are rugged and signs along the roadway warn that the route is "crooked and steep."  This, of course made for some excellent riding for us! Although the day was cloudy and windy in the open areas, we still had the views from the top of the passes and were pleased to see there was still some color from the red maples, sweet gums, and red oaks. We passed quite a few old homesteads and ramshackle cabins and trailer homes.  Poverty seems to have quite a foothold within these hills.  

By the time we made it to Alma, our destination, the sky had turn ominous with dark clouds and the promise of rain.  Tomorrow is supposed to be very windy and stormy so we may need to lay low until Tuesday.  

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Today we had a relatively short but beautiful ride from Siloam Springs to Fayetteville, AR. We rode along old Highway 68, which had very little traffic, partly because the University of Arkansas Razorbacks had a home game against Texas, and the university is located in Fayetteville. The ride passed through gorgeous countryside, with crisp fallen leaves lining the roadside. It truly was a joyful ride—not having to deal with traffic, breathing in fresh air, and enjoying the end of the fall colors. We also experienced some decent hill climbing, which was a prelude to tomorrow's ride through the Ozark Mountains along Scenic Highway 71 to Alma, AR.

We arrived in Fayetteville just as the football game came to an end. The streets were crowded with fans, and there is no doubt the town will be lively tonight. We are off to check out downtown Fayetteville and explore the local music scene. Tomorrow will be a tough ride into Alma, AR, since, in addition to the hill climbing, it looks like we’ll be facing some gusty headwinds. We plan to get an early start tomorrow so we can reach Alma in time to see the 49ers vs. Seahawks game, which is another must-win for the 49ers. Hoping they can finish the season strong to secure a playoff spot.

Love,

Andy

Hello everyone!

Last night, in Siloam Springs, we had a great time at an old plantation house turned restaurant and inn.  It was a great place to eat and listen to music by a local guitarist who was quite talented.  However, it was also a reminder that we are getting into the southern part of the states.  Even the folk here speak with a different accent than they did in Texas or Oklahoma... I remember my Aunt Jean had that same accent as she was from Arkansas.  

As we have passed from eastern Oklahoma into Arkansas these last two days, I have had a flood of memories of my earlier childhood in a place called Webster Groves, Missouri (southwest of St. Louis.).  The wooded hills we have been riding through, with their oak, elm, pine, hickory, walnut and sycamore trees, even in their late fall state of barrenness are much as they were in the area I was born.  I can imagine that these hills would be carpeted with bluebells, spring beautys, and wood violets in the Spring. The many birds, including the blue jays, warblers, cardinals, wrens, red-tailed hawks, and the great blue heron are ones I remember seeing as a child when my brother and I were learning about birds from our dad.  

The weather has been beautiful, albeit a bit crisp and cool in the breezy mornings, and the roads have been winding and plunging and rising with the never-ending hills.  The riding has been really nice, but I will say, my legs are getting tired by the end of the day with all the climbing!  Tomorrow we will ride on a scenic highway through the heart of the Ozark Mountains, with  many more hills to come!

Love,

 Molly

Der Family and Friends,

I loved teaching American History, especially through art, literature, and music. The arts served as a sort of emotional contagion to connect students to the historical context of their families, communities, country, and the world they live in. Yesterday, Tulsa, Oklahoma, brought all of that alive for me. We visited the Greenwood Rising exhibit, which provided an intricate story of Black Wall Street and the horrific massacre that took place in 1921. Then, we walked a few blocks past the old baseball field that served as one of the detention centers during the massacre and visited the Woody Guthrie Center. Music, and Woody in particular, has a way of contextualizing history for all to understand and appreciate. Woody’s music is far-reaching, covering everything from songs for children to the chilling injustices that plague our nation. As a teacher, one of my favorite lessons was to teach "God Bless America" by Irving Berlin and "This Land Is Your Land" by Woody Guthrie. Woody’s handwritten progression of the original song is on full display in the center and was honestly pretty emotional to read and listen to. The full story of the origin of the song and how it evolved is not well known, so I encourage you to read and listen to it here.

After walking through the Woody Guthrie Center, we walked next door—yes, just a half block down—to the Bob Dylan Center. This was a pretty unreal experience. Bob Dylan, out of respect, decided to have his archive right next door to Woody’s. It’s like a musical father and son living next to each other, and the influence Woody had on Bob’s work is profound and can be seen, felt, and heard as you walk through the Bob Dylan Center. Bob Dylan’s adoration and affection for Woody can be heard in his famous song "Song to Woody" and his poem "Last Thoughts of Woody Guthrie."

To be able to walk through the lifetimes of these two iconic artists was a gift that I will treasure and remember for the rest of my life. The experience of learning more about Black Wall Street and the subsequent Tulsa Massacre, combined with experiencing American history through the writings and music of Woody and Bob, left me realizing how much more there is to learn about the history and potential of the United States.

Oh, and today we rode 70 miles from Tulsa to Tahlequah, Oklahoma. The ride, through the Cherokee Nation provided plenty of time to think, reflect, and appreciate. Tomorrow, we cross the state border into Arkansas and will be riding through the Ozark Mountains. We are both excited about this part of the journey.

Love,

Andy

Dear all,

Today we hit 2,500 miles of cycling and have made it to a city we have been looking forward to visiting:  Tulsa, OK.   Tulsa is a city with an eclectic history.  It sits on the Arkansas River at the junction of a number of Native American lands, including the Osage, Kickapoo, Cherokee, and Creek tribes. When oil was discovered here in 1901, Tulsa became a boom town and grew to be known as the oil capital of the world through the 20th century.  While oil was found all over northeastern Oklahoma, some was discovered on the land owned by the Osage tribe, which sparked the reign of terror on the Osage people portrayed in the book and film: Killers of the Flower Moon.  

Later, in 1921, in the Greenwood section of town, also known as "Black Wall Street" due to the prosperous Black community living there, a mob of white residents of Tulsa rose up and massacred, looted, and burned the Greenwood community.  Today, this horrific act of racial violence is considered to be one of the worst in American history.

Today, Tulsa is still an oil town.  We could smell it as we biked into the city and passed acres and acres of oil refineries.  It is also considered to be the center of Route 66 as the "Father of Route 66", Cyrus Avery, hailed from here.  But for us,  the biggest draw to come to Tulsa is the music.  Home to the Woody Guthrie and Bob Dylan Centers and a seven-nights-a-week live music scene, we plan to soak in as much as we can while we are here.

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Seattle feels like a long time ago, although it’s only been a bit over two months. Perhaps it’s the distance covered that distorts our sense of time. The vastness of the United States, along with its geographic and cultural diversity, creates an experience that makes one appreciate the uniqueness of each day. Our pace of travel heightens the senses, making moments feel like an eternity.

Since Flagstaff, Arizona, we’ve been following Route 66, now reaching Tulsa, Oklahoma. Cycling along this historic highway ignites the imagination and prompts reflection on those who have traveled this route since its construction began in 1926. So much American history has unfolded here, with countless stories—both told and untold—playing out along its path. I feel fortunate each day to consider those who traveled this road, from its vision of connecting Chicago, IL, to Santa Monica, CA, to the Dust Bowl migrations of the 1930s, its role as a crucial WWII supply route in the 1940s, and the postwar boom in the 1950s when towns along the route flourished. The 1960s saw the Interstate System divert travel and commerce away from the highway, slowly turning it into an American relic for us to appreciate, preserve and share for future generations.

Today, was our last day riding the great highway 66 since we will now start riding southeast toward Savannah, GA. Tomorrow, we’re taking the day off to explore the amazing city of Tulsa, Oklahoma. We’ll be back on Wednesday.

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

We had a great "rest" (not really a rest) in Oklahoma City. The weekend was filled with great food, exceptional music, 49ers football, and a live NBA game between the Oklahoma City Thunder and the Golden State Warriors. We had a blast, but the busy days and late nights left us pretty tired.

Today, we had a full ride from Oklahoma City to Stroud, OK, which is about halfway to Tulsa. The ride was nearly perfect: we covered 63 miles in comfortable 70-degree weather, with no wind and amazing scenery. What a difference from the rain and headwinds we faced before reaching Oklahoma City! The Oklahoma countryside is gorgeous, and the roads have been exceptional for cycling, with very little traffic.

Tomorrow, we're off to Tulsa, where we'll take a day off to visit several exhibits: Greenwood Rising (the story of Greenwood and the tragic massacre that took place there), the Woody Guthrie Center, and the Bob Dylan Center. Tulsa is said to be a vibrant city, rich in art, culture, and music, and we’re looking forward to exploring it!

Love,

Andy

Hi Everyone!

We're back at it after a fantastic weekend in Oklahoma City! 

Today was one of those perfect bluebird days for riding a bike. With no wind or rain, just blue skies and temperatures in the 60s and 70s, we rode along farm roads with minimal traffic and lovely rolling hills.It definitely feels like there’s been a significant shift in the landscape. The wide-open plains of the West are behind us, and we’ve entered the wooded hills of the Midwest. Oak trees dominate the woods, accompanied by walnuts, locusts, and redbuds. Agriculture has transformed from sprawling pastures and crops to smaller, more intimate farms. All of this reminds us that we are getting closer to the Ozark Mountains, followed by the Appalachians. It's surprising to realize that we are now about two-thirds of the way through this cross-country journey. We’re very much looking forward to exploring these final sections of the U.S.

On a side note, we had our first incidents today of rude drivers laying on thier horn as they passed us, even though there was clearly nowhere else for us to ride and we were as far off the road as possible.  We actually had this happen twice in a the same hour!  This was so unusual because up to now, people have  not done this and have, for the most part been very courteous.  We also had our first incident of someone trying to "roll coal" on us.  If you do not know what that is, it is when a diesel engine fuel injection system on a car (or more commonly, a pickup truck), is modified to produce excessive black smoke and the driver accelerates as they pass someone so they are engulfed in toxic black smoke.  For us, it was a group of high school boys passing us.  It was our good fortune that the yougsters were not very practiced at the dubious "art" of rolling coal, so it was mostly harmless.

Love,
Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Today was wet and windy! It’s amazing how hard the rain can come down, and it’s easy to understand why flash floods are common in Oklahoma. We had a brief window of light rain, which we took advantage of to enjoy three nights and two full days of rest in Oklahoma City. We also had a chance to fully test our rain gear. It’s poor but functional for light rain; however, in a strong storm, it would be useless. Despite the rain and strong head wind, we made it to Oklahoma City while being able to check its many different neighborhoods.

We have a lot to do here. We need to tune up our bikes, plan the next leg of our trip to Tulsa, OK, through the Ozarks, do laundry, replenish our supplies at REI, and sightsee around the city. The Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial is supposed to be powerful, so we’ll visit that and take a walking tour through the city. We also hope to catch some good music at the many venues here, including the famous Beer City Music Hall.

Additionally, the Golden State Warriors are playing the Oklahoma City Thunder on Sunday, so we’re looking into snagging a couple of tickets for that. We also need to find time for the 49ers game on Sunday, as Christian McCaffrey, the star running back, is finally back and will play his first game of the season. Hopefully, he’ll help get the 49ers back on a Super Bowl track.

Looking forward to a fun, busy, and restful weekend off the bike. No riding for the next couple of days, so no postcards until Monday.  Until then…

Love,

Andy

Hello Everyone!

On April 19, 1995, a truck loaded with explosives was parked it front of a federal building in downtown Oklahoma City and detonated.  The resulting explosion killed 168 people, including children who were at the daycare housed in the building and is considered, to this day, the deadliest act of domestic terrorism in U.S. history. 

When we arrived in the heart of Oklahoma City today after a very windy ride into the City from El Reno, we rode right by the location of the bombing.  There is a wall where the federal building wall once stood, as a memorial.  The words imprinted on this wall are pictured above.  

In terms of square miles, the metropolitan area of Oklahoma City and surrounding communities look massive on a map.  In fact, it seemed to take forever to get to the down town once we entered the city limits.  However, the downtown area seemed a ghost town. At least it did as we cycled into it.  We are staying in a part called Bricktown and it does promise to be more lively.  It is one of the older sections of the city but gentrified with shops, restaurants, brew pubs, music venues, a minor league baseball park, and Paycom Center where the OK City Thunder play.   Should be nice for a few days of well-deserved rest after some tough riding against the wind and in the rain!  We will return to the road on Monday.  Have a nice weekend, everyone!

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Riding across the Great Plains of Oklahoma has been an unexpected treat. The area's rich history is closely linked to the dynamic weather, especially the wind. Today’s ride took us through one of the regions most affected by the Dust Bowl from 1935 to 1940, which led to the displacement and migration of thousands of families, as John Steinbeck wrote about in his famous book, The Grapes of Wrath. The Dust Bowl inspired many writers, artists, and musicians who documented the struggles people faced during this turbulent period in American history. Although the Dust Bowl years have passed, the impact of severe weather is still visible as we ride through the Oklahoma countryside. Along the roadside and in some fields, we occasionally see the red dust that makes agriculture impossible and threatens the livelihoods of local farmers. It reminds me of one of my favorite Bruce Springsteen songs, "My Oklahoma Home." Be sure to give it a listen and enjoy!

Today was one of the most gorgeous yet challenging rides we’ve had since leaving Seattle. Most of our journey was along empty backcountry roads that wound through beautiful farmland, crossed river valleys, and took us through stunning landscapes. Despite facing a strong headwind with consistent gusts of 25 mph, we thoroughly enjoyed the ride. The wind slowed us down big time, allowing us to cover only 58 miles in 6.5 hours. Yep, we are tired!

We are now in El Reno, just 25 miles outside of Oklahoma City. Appropriately, our ride to Oklahoma City tomorrow is on hold due to potential extreme weather conditions. If the weather is prohibitive, we will postpone our ride until Saturday morning.

Love, 

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

Enroute to our next eastward destination, Weatherford, Oklahoma, off in the distance, we could see a cyclist on a loaded down bike heading west.  As we rode toward each other, I wondered if this was another cross country cyclist going in the opposite direction. We have not seen a cross-country cyclist since we started this trip. When we came into eye contact, we all stopped.  It turns out that the cyclist was from Kyoto, Japan.  He was a young man, probably in his 20’s. HIs bike was loaded down and he even had a small backpack on his back with a sign that said: New York to LA “talk with me.”  We stopped and talked for a bit and the spirit of adventure and excitement was ripe as we chatted about the different roads ahead. Ours eastward and his westward and two similar, but very different experiences ahead. 

The encounter made me reflect a bit about the many different reasons people choose to journey, some choose a bicycle and attempt to cross a country or even the world. Others choose to take on long distance hikes such as the Pacific Crest Trail or the Appalachian Trail, some choose to climb mountains, while others navigate rivers and oceans and others choose artistic or introspective journeys. Regardless of the mode of journey, there’s  a special and unique inspiration that fuels a kind of fire in the belly to chart a new adventure.

Love,

Andy

Dear all,

We have been riding through a lot of cattle country, and one phenomenon we've noticed is that many of the cattle lift their heads from grazing in the fields or  feedlots to watch us pedal by.  It never fails! I think it is the sound our bikes make that piques their interest. Today, however, I spotted a funny-looking "cow" among the others and realized it was a jackass. It made me chuckle, reminding me of the saying, "there’s a jackass in every crowd." Of course, I had to share it!

The life applications, both humorous and infuriating, are many, and I will let you, dear reader, come up with your own metaphors. We have encountered a few on our ride: Drivers who do not make room for us and honk their horn right as they pass;  truck drivers who toss their garbage out onto the side of the highway, even when a bin is just 50 feet away; the people who are so wrapped up in their own lives and telling you, loudly, everything about it, that they never think to find out a thing about yours. The list goes on.  Fortunately, for every "jackass" we encounter, there are many more thoughtful, friendly people.  Lately, it has been the hotel workers who ensure we have what we need -  an often thankless job. But, when you thank them or smile at them or comment on how hard they are working, it brings out their gratitude and happy smiles.  

We try hard to connect with those who are often overlooked. Perhaps this is something we learned from our years of teaching, but more likely it’s the good training from our parents that has shaped who we are.

Tonight, we toast all the people, who by sheer coincidence, have made our journey much more pleasant and comfortable. Thank you!

Love, 

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Today is Election Day in the United States. Since we started our ride on September 3, we’ve passed through areas sharply divided by politics, yet united around the most important things in life: family, community, friendship, caring, compassion, and the amazing landscape we all share. As we travel and meet everyday people, politics rarely comes up in conversation. Instead, we experience friendly encounters, genuine interest in each other’s lives, and a shared concern for well-being.

This is in stark contrast to what one experiences when tuning into national and social media, where polarization, strife, and disunity play out like a video loop, perpetuating bitter discourse and deepening divides.  We hope that the stories of our journey, along with those of many others who have traveled slowly through this great country, will help break this false narrative and highlight the goodness and kindness we share as Americans. It reminds us of Woody Guthrie’s great song, "This Land is Your Land."

Speaking of Woody Guthrie, we crossed into his home state of Oklahoma today! We have now entered our seventh state and are inching toward the eastern part of the country. It’s hard to believe we should be in Oklahoma City by the weekend—that’s a long way from Seattle! The weather continues to change by the day and sometimes the hour, but as we move toward eastern Oklahoma and Arkansas, we hope it will become more predictable. Tomorrow’s forecast looks good as we aim for Weatherford, Oklahoma.

Love,

Andy

Hello Everyone!

Well, we have made it to our seventh state—Oklahoma! This is one of the few states I’ve never visited before, so I’m looking forward to exploring it. We are officially in the Great Plains of the U.S., a region where buffalo once roamed, many First Nations peoples lived, and later, pioneers, homesteaders, ranchers, and cowboys settled. Still later, during the years of 1934 to 1940, known as the Dust Bowl,  a combination of drought years and over plowing of the shortgrass prairie caused much of the topsoil to blow away due to the frequent strong winds in this region.

Today, Oklahoma is resettled and seems to be prospering, at least in the towns along the major freeway arteries. Along the faded Route 66, however, remnants of a bygone era can still be seen among the ruins. In the tiny town of Erick, just over the border from Texas, we discovered a place called Sam's Town. We initially biked past it but were drawn back by a sign that read, "Slow Down America" and "Bicycle Rest Area."

The owner, Sam Hagen, a former newspaper writer, is also a professional photographer, creative artist, entrepreneur, and avid recycler. Everything at Sam's Town is handcrafted or recycled from the surrounding countryside, including an old one-room schoolhouse he moved to his property to serve as an art studio and now offers as a rental room. Sam is passionate about sharing his world and his work, which includes a coffee station, a children's playground, and a campground with multiple sites scattered among his salvaged memorabilia. Displays feature some of his truly beautiful photographs of the Oklahoma landscape.

In addition, there’s an outhouse, bunkhouses, a laundry and shower facility, and a new "jail" he is building, all made from recycled materials. His goal is to share his space with travelers along the old Route 66, particularly cyclists like us who want to "go slow." He rents campsites for $7 a night, and bikes "stay free."

Way to go, Sam!  Thanks for the tour!

Love, 

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

We woke up to a rainy morning. The weather forecast changed overnight, and it was clear we would face a cold, wet ride if we decided to go. Rather than spend another night in Pampa, TX, we chose to take the risk and leave once the rain let up a bit. It turned out to be a good move.

The ride to Shamrock was cool and wet due to periodic rain showers, but it was truly gorgeous as we rode through open range along the backroads of the Texas Panhandle. We had the road to ourselves for most of the way, with very little traffic. The lighting today was almost surreal, with gray skies, occasional sun breaks, wide-open spaces, and bursts of rain.

We are back on Old Route 66 and will stay on it until we reach Tulsa, OK. It’s fascinating to see the old towns along the route, but it’s also sad to witness the dilapidation of some small towns, particularly where the Interstate doesn’t pass through. There is so much history along Route 66, with an old infrastructure for transport, tourism, and recreation. It would be great to see revitalization efforts, similar to the Rails-to-Trails initiative, aimed at reconnecting and revitalizing the towns along this historic highway.

Tomorrow, we will cross the Texas border into Oklahoma and stay in Elk City, OK.

Love,

Andy

Hi Everyone!

Today, we felt the the cusp of winter.  A chill bit the air and our trustworthy sun was not to be found.  Instead, we were greeted with gray skies and a drizzling rain.  For Oregonians, this was nothing to daunt our day.  We left behind the relative flatlands of the southwest and entered the rolling hills of the red dirt land of the eastern panhandle of Texas. With the hills, came the return of trees including the Texas Ash, Western Soapberry, and Hackberry, which are another welcome sight.  

While we did get cold feet from the rain, the exertion of biking up hills helped pump our blood to our toes and kept our foot temperature manageable.   We are reminded however, that time is slipping away and the golden days of late summer and early fall are past.  We will be putting our colder weather gear to the test, for sure. 

Tonight is the eve of Election Day here in the U.S.  While millions have already voted, many more millions will vote tomorrow.  It is a diverse country, in terms of both natural and cultural landscapes.  Exploring this country slowly, town by town through the backroads has given us some unique views of  what American life is like.  And yet, we are all citizens of this democracy with the right to vote.  And, in case you were wondering, we have done our civic duty and voted!  

Cheers,

Molly

How y'all doin'?

That is a typical greeting you will hear in the Texas Panhandle should you come to visit.  We spent yesterday in Amarillo, located in the heart of this northern section of Texas.  It's a small city with a big town feel, founded on the giant beef industry. Wealthy cattle ranchers were later joined by oil tycoons, newly rich from the oil and natural gas deposits found beneath the dry grasslands that built the first industry.  

Route 66 runs right through Amarillo, and on the west side, you can find an interesting art installation featuring Cadillac cars buried in a row.  Known as Cadillac Ranch, the cars have been buried there for 50 years, now covered in graffiti.  We wanted to see this iconic installation, but we were caught in a day-long series of thunderstorms and downpours, so we opted to find indoor activities instead. (The photo above in the heading is not my own as a result, but one I gleaned from the internet at RoadsideAmerica.com)  

Surrounding Amarillo are the endless ranches and the supporting crop farms (hay and feed corn), along with cotton and sorghum. Agriculture in this area has depended on the vast underground Ogallala Aquifer to irrigate these crops in this dry landscape.  The Texas Panhandle lies over the shallowest section of the aquifer and as a result, in 2013, the aquifer in this region no longer supported intense irrigation (The New York Times).   Thus, in the wake of the massive herd of cattle that once roamed the plains here, a new crop has sprung up:  wind energy.  Considering the ever-growing demand for energy and the seemingly endless winds that scour this part of the U.S., it seems like a good idea!  

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

We had a great day off in Amarillo yesterday. It was a planned break, but even if it hadn’t been, we couldn’t have ridden. Mother Nature was on full display with thunder, lightning, heavy rain, street flooding, cold, and wind. Most of the day was spent planning, with Meteorologist Molly busy analyzing different forecasting models to assist us in mapping our route from Amarillo across the Texas Panhandle to Oklahoma City and Tulsa. The weather is highly variable right now, and we need to be cautious as heavy rain, flash flooding, and even tornadoes are possible.

During our research, we realized our route is smack in the middle of Tornado Alley. Although it’s not tornado season, they can occur year-round. Yesterday, Oklahoma City, the direction we’re heading, experienced a tornado-spawning thunderstorm that caused significant damage. Fortunately, we’re using multiple weather apps to track conditions hourly and can adjust our riding plans accordingly.

Today was the calm after the storm. We rode 57 miles in less than four hours, sailing from Amarillo to Pampa with a warm, strong wind at our backs. We glided down Old Route 66 on a gorgeous day with very little traffic. We arrived in Pampa much earlier than expected and enjoyed a nice afternoon watching football and doing laundry. Tomorrow, the plan is to get to Shamrock, TX, weather permitting.

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

Today’s ride was a full sensory experience. We left Hereford this morning, greeted by the intense smell of cattle and beef permeating the air. To be fair, beef and cattle drive the economy here, but the scent was so strong that it was almost nauseating.

As we rode northeast, the odor dissipated, replaced by the sounds of wind, chirping birds, and the soft glide of our bikes along the road. Instead of cattle farms, we were met with the remarkable contrast of a bright blue sky and seemingly endless fields of cotton in full bloom.

On a quiet country road, mostly absent of traffic, I experienced an awesome rhythm and flow between my body, mind, and bicycle—a zen-like, almost perfect feeling. Suddenly, the sound of a plane overhead broke my trance. It was a crop duster swooping across the cotton fields. As I rode, I realized the plane was heading downward to dust the crops, and I thought, “I might just get hit by a plane while riding my bike!” Of course, it wasn’t even close, but the feeling of riding toward a diving plane was pretty wild.

We made it to Amarillo today, which seems like a cool town. Next to Austin, it’s supposedly the second-best place in Texas to see live music. We’ll be checking out the music scene tonight and tomorrow before resuming our ride on Sunday, depending on the weather, of course.

Until Sunday...

Love, 

Andy

Greetings all!

Today was a bluebird day. A bit chilly early on, but by afternoon, we were back to bike shorts and short-sleeve jerseys. A storm is moving into the Texas panhandle tonight, but for today, the weather held, and we enjoyed a lovely tailwind.

Our route to Amarillo, Texas, mostly took us on farm roads, devoid of traffic, where the only sounds were the occasional melodies of Texas songbirds. I wish I knew which ones I was hearing; it’s a future goal of mine to learn more about birds everywhere I go!

The stillness and silence of the road and the rhythmic flow of the pedals and tires in their endless revolutions lulled us both into deep reveries, lost in thoughts both random and diverse.  I think a lot of my family and my life on these rides, from my childhood, to parenthood, to grandparenthood.   It is so nice to have the luxury to have such devoted time to do this.  Reflection is such an important thing to do in life, and we are often too busy living to do it.  This bicycle journey has given us the gift of time in ways we did not even anticipate!

We have made it to another larger city, Amarillo, and I am finding it to be a great city to visit!  We will spend tomorrow here exploring it and letting the expected thunderstorms pass us by.  

Love,

Molly

Happy Halloween, Everyone!

When I was a kid, my mother always handmade the most amazing costumes.  We were always the highlight of the Halloween costume parade at our elementary school!   I was a luna moth one year, the queen of hearts another, and Betsy Ross on yet another year.  My mother is the most creative woman I know and it is where we all get our creative vibes (especially my sister, Beannie, the art teacher!).   

Today, we had our own version of "trick or treat" thanks to our good friend, Komoot (the app we use for mapping our daily bicycle rides). Komoot tries hard to keep us off the busy roads and highways, which we greatly appreciate. However, we've learned that Komoot can often mistake a canal, a line of telephone poles, or even a row in a field for a viable riding path. Well, today did not disappoint! We were tricked by Komoot more than a few times! We even have a new verb in our vocabulary, as in, "we have been Kamooted!" For example, we had to use good judgment to avoid the narrow dirt pathways that Komoot suggested, which may or may not have existed, and stick to the paved roads we knew would eventually lead us to our destination.

We also passed through the tiny beef processing town of Friona, Texas. Komoot kindly had us bypass the busy road through the center of town, taking us on a winding detour through neighborhoods and back alleys for a good 15 minutes, only to emerge back on the main road less than a mile from where we exited! Despite this, it was truly interesting to see what such a small town is like—small brick one-story houses, shuttered businesses, and a beautiful new high school with an immaculate football field (Friday Night Lights, anyone?)

We are riding through the heart of beef cattle country. This is not my favorite, as anyone who knows me is aware that I can't stand beef. The very air in this area of Texas is permeated with one of the following:  the smell of fermenting corn silage in massive feedlots or the sickening stench of beef processing plants and all the associated by-products. The odors follow you for miles, especially when you're downwind from them. The only reprieve from the endless ranches, corn farms, feedlots, and processing plants is the emergence of cotton fields, another major commodity in Texas. I saw my first cotton fields today, which is surprising given all the places I’ve been!

There is no question the landscape changed today.  We went from the endless desolate desert landscapes of New Mexico to the intense agricultural hive of the Texas panhandle, and tomorrow, we should reach Amarillo!  

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Yesterday was a complete “wind out.”  We had arranged transportation for the short section of Interstate 40 that was unsuitable for cycling. However, due to the windstorm, we had the driver take us to our planned destination, Fort Sumner, NM. We spent the day in a town that once thrived when Route 66 was bustling with people, transport, commerce, and, of course, music! Today, much of Old Route 66 is desolate, dilapidated, and dotted with ghost towns that once flourished.

Seeing the abandoned hotels, garages, bars, and shuttered businesses makes one wonder what the “Mother Road” was like during the Great Depression and beyond, before the interstates transformed life, business, and culture in the United States. Today, the only parts of Old Route 66 that remain are near Interstate exits, where hotel and gas chains, Starbucks, Dollar Stores, Walmarts, and Applebee's dominate the landscape. These strip malls have sadly become the modern fabric of American economic and social life, making one nostalgic for what once was.

Today’s ride felt like sailing on a fully wind-powered electric bike. We rode over 60 miles from Fort Sumner to Clovis, NM, with a direct tailwind at our backs. It was almost effortless. We could coast along at speeds of 20-22 mph on flat terrain. The New Mexico landscape is stunning yet stark and desolate. Riding through this area makes one understand why it was chosen for atomic bomb testing and development, while also illuminating why New Mexico is called the “Land of Enchantment.”

Love,

Andy

Hello everyone,

We are back on our journey, and what a day it was! We knew the winds would shift from the south to the west, but wow, did they ever! We rode with those winds—along with a few 35+ mph gusts—completely at our backs for most of the 64 miles. At times, it felt as if we were gliding effortlessly.  We covered the 64 miles to Clovis in just under 4 hours, a remarkable time, considering we were projected to be riding over 6 hours.   

We rode along the Highway 60, a fairly quiet stretch of road that goes on through the eastern New Mexico in a fairly desolate region of the southwest.   It wasn't just the land... it was the towns that we passed as well.  Melrose is a perfect example.  A little over halfway between Fort Sumner and Clovis, this town was once a busier place along the old Highway 66 and the railroad line that thrived on those two sources of income.  Now, it is a ghost of what it once was.  No train stops here anymore.  No car, nor truck does either, it seems.  We did, however, on our bicycles, only to be met by the broken empty storefronts of Main Street.   

The Highway 60 itself cuts through a swath of land that is as barren as those storefronts of Melrose.  Our saving grace was the incredible tail wind we had from the west which wisked us by.  The only thing to break that meager landscape was the numerous trains pushing west or east, towing their 100+ car long loads, laden with  Amazon cargo, to whatever more prosperous destination they were heading for. 

The weather is changing as well and the harbingers of winter were felt in both our bones and psyche.   Temperatures have dropped 20 degrees since yesterday.  Thin grey clouds have begun to obstruct large portions of the previously wide open, blue sky.  We feel the pressure to hurry along our route east if we are to make it to Savannah, Georgia in mid-December, and yet, we really want to be able to pause and experience all our future route has to offer.  We hope we still can. 

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

We feel fortunate to have made it to Albuquerque in time to fly back to Portland and be with family as Molly’s dad peacefully passed on. His 96 years were full, rich, and filled with adventures. On Saturday, the family gathered to share stories that brought both tears and laughter, but most of all an appreciation for a life well-lived, beautifully reflected in his wife, his children, and grandchildren. He, along with all our parents, lived inspiring lives, which is why we dedicated this bike journey across the country to them.

Last night, we returned to Albuquerque to resume our ride. Honestly, things feel different and a bit surreal as we transition back into cycling. Our hearts are heavier, but our will to complete the ride remains strong, and we know Molly’s dad would want us to finish. We only rode 38 miles today, but 25 of those involved a 2,000-foot climb on Old Route 66 into the Sandia Mountains, followed by a descent to Moriarty, NM. We had thought that being off the bike for over a week would make it hard to transition back, but while we have some reconditioning ahead, we felt pretty fit today—though both of us are tired and need sleep.

The next five days will be tough. Windstorms are predicted for Tuesday and Wednesday, and we will be riding through desolate sections of New Mexico and Texas until we reach Amarillo, TX. We’ve also encountered a section of Interstate 40 that is unsafe and illegal for bikes, with no frontage road available, so we will need to arrange a short shuttle ride to bypass that area. Tomorrow, our goal is to reach Fort Sumner, New Mexico.

Love,

Andy

Hi everyone,

1,800 miles into our journey, we crossed a major milestone: the Continental Divide! A true watershed moment, so to speak. I have crossed this line many times throughout my life—in Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, and now New Mexico. I always find it to be a strangely metaphysical point of transition. It represents the separation of water flow between the West and East, as well as a shift in life’s journey.

I crossed this line when moving to Oregon as a 10-year-old, where life took such a dramatic shift that made our whole family stronger, closer, and better.  I crossed it many years later in mid-life finding my way with a new life as a married woman for the second time.  Crossing it today, I knew it was another new watershed. 

Today was one of the toughest rides.  That may have had something to do with the 40mph wind gusts we fought; but, it may have also been something to do with my heart being in two places at the same time.  An earthquake is unfolding in my family's life.  The paternal stronghold of my father is fading, and my heart is aching.  It was he who first took me - and the rest of my family - across the Continental Divide, in that old Ford station wagon.  

The term "watershed" carries many meanings. It can signify the separation of water drainage across a continent or represent the dividing lines in our lives. It evokes a cascade of change...a swirl of water... a parting.

I love you, Dad.  

Molly

Dear Family and Friends, 

Yesterday the cycling gods giveth, and today they taketh away! We rode from Gallup, crossed the Continental Divide, and made our way to Grants, NM, along the Old Route 66. We spent a good part of the morning checking weather apps and confirming safe routes to Grants. After a hearty breakfast at the historic El Rancho Hotel, we decided to move on before the first winter storm hit.

We ensured that none of our ride would be along Interstate I-40, as gusts were predicted to reach 45 mph. The good news: we were on safe, empty roads along Old Route 66 all day! The bad news: we faced those high-speed gusts, and at times we could barely pedal forward. We were cycling in a full-scale windstorm, and there was nothing we could do but pedal slowly in our easiest gear, accepting that we could only go a few miles per hour. It became a mind game for both of us. We rode side by side at times, and other times in single file, with the wind fluctuating between waning and thrusting so hard that we could hardly move our bikes. I’ve been an active cyclist for most of my life, and I have never experienced such wind turbulence on a bike. Reflecting on the joy of yesterday and the torment of today, I realize it’s a perfect metaphor for life.

In the end, we made it to Grants and enjoyed a rewarding evening at the Junkyard Brewery on Route 66. Junkyard Brewery was started by a guy who converted his junkyard into a brewery, using what was perceived as junk, classic cars, and amazing music, along with smoked BBQ—all reflecting the classic Mother Road experience. What a perfect reward at the end of a challenging day of riding! You truly have to see this place to believe it. If you ever get a chance to pass through Grants, NM, do not miss it! On to Albuquerque tomorrow, and then a nice long break!

Love, Andy

Greetings one and all!

Today, we crossed our 4th state boundary line -  from Arizona into New Mexico...our fifth state!  At 1,800 miles, we figure we are getting pretty close to our halfway point in our ride.  We find it hard to believe!   

The landscape is changing again, with more mesas and rock formations emerging, making the road much hillier and more interesting, and, thankfully, less of a grind. We are seeing more trees lately and even the weather is getting more dynamic.  Clouds are appearing, building, darkening and spattering rain, even while the sun shines.  The effect is mesmerizing and gives you a sense of how small you really are and yet, how perfectly in sync one is with nature.  I have truly appreciated the fact we have spent each and every day outdoors these past 36 days, feeling, breathing and living in raw nature.  I may change my mind tomorrow as we are supposed to hit some pretty big winds (not in our favor) and much colder temperatures. 

On a side note - a piece of good news:  my stitches from Day 29 of this blog are out, thanks to good ol' Dr. Andy! He had to calm my nerves a bit, as I was a bit of a baby about having him remove the sutures, but he did a great job and certainly earned the title of "Doctor" in my book! :-)

Love,

Molly

Hi everyone!

In the Northeast corner of Arizona in the Painted Desert, sits a very unique National Park:  The Petrified Forest.  Our route today took us right through it.  It was so interesting to imagine the dry desolate area we were cycling through as a warm, tropical, climate, filled with conifers and cycad trees.  Yet, this is exactly how this area was back during the Triassic Period, 252 to 201 million years ago!  At that time, the land which would become North America was part of the supercontinent Pangaea and the land we biked through actually sat much closer to the equator, hence the tropical forest.  It was these ancient forests that would eventually become the fossilized remains of tree trunks and root systems found today.  The Painted Desert has also produced numerous fossilized bones of ancient early dinosaurs and large reptiles that roamed those ancient forest.  Just the park for a geology-lovin' girl like me!

I have to say today was a tough ride, though.  Not because of the traffic, hills, or wind, but because my heart is pretty heavy.  Today, my 96-year-old father begins hospice care.  We knew it was coming, but it is never an easy thing, as all who have experienced similar situations with loved ones would understand.  My father is such an inspiration to me.  He, along with my mother, taught me the value of hard work, patience, kindness, appreciation for nature and the world we live in.  He has alway been a true example of living life fully and well.  

Tonight, I am thinking of my family, and am so very grateful for them and their love.  

-Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

We completed a 40-mile ride today between Winslow and Holbrook, AZ, on and off the Old Route 66 and the I-40. It’s been tough riding over the last couple of days, battling strong headwinds in some of the most open spaces I have ever seen. This section between Flagstaff and Albuquerque will definitely be our most challenging due to varying terrain, road conditions, strong winds and battling a cold. We're also noticing temperatures starting to cool as winter begins to set in.

We met with the Arizona Highway Patrol Captain Lane, not over the phone or at his office, but at the freeway entrance into Holbrook. As we were exiting Holbrook, a highway patrol truck had its emergency lights flashing, and an officer signaled us to stop. For a split second, we thought we were in trouble, but then he shouted, "You must be Andrew and Molly!" It turned out to be Captain Lane. He was expecting to see us or speak to us by phone later, but being the only cyclists on the road, he recognized us. He provided updates for the trip ahead and offered his assistance in case we encountered any problems before crossing into New Mexico. It’s reassuring to know we have someone to call if issues arise, especially in this remote part of Northern Arizona. Tomorrow, we’ll be cycling through the Petrified Forest and stopping at the only freeway exit hotel between here and Gallup, NM.

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

Our three days in Flagstaff, AZ, were a blast! We enjoyed outstanding food, music, and plenty of time to relax, plan, and replenish supplies. The planning part took us by surprise. When we initially mapped the route between Flagstaff, AZ and Albuquerque, NM, we thought we would be following the original Route 66. While we are, a closer look reveals that much of Route 66 is buried beneath I-40 or exists, but its along sandy gravel roads that would be impassable on our bikes.

The route, well-traveled by cyclists, requires more time on I-40 than we expected. Riding on the interstate is legal in Arizona and New Mexico and is the normal route for cyclists traveling the Route 66 stretch between Chicago, Illinois, and Santa Monica, California. Unfortunately, this section is considered the worst because of the time spent on the interstate. Interstate riding simply does not offer any joy, although the wide riding shoulder helps as cars and trucks pass by.

Today was almost all downhill from Flagstaff to Winslow, AZ where we would “stand on the corner in Winslow, AZ”. We rode 59 miles in just over four hours. Good thing it was downhill, as I picked up a cold in Flagstaff and am feeling a bit under the weather. I’m going to get a good night's sleep tonight and hopefully will feel better in the morning. Tomorrow, we’re off to Holbrook, AZ, where we will meet with an Arizona Highway Patrolman to help us navigate our trip into New Mexico hopefully without having to stay on the interstate the entire time. We spoke with him by phone on Friday, and he was incredibly helpful, offering to do some research for us before we tackle the long stretch between Holbrook and Chambers, AZ, our last stop in Arizona before crossing into New Mexico. That’s it for tonight! I need to get some sleep!

Love,

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

We finally made it to Flagstaff on a slightly abbreviated ride due to an irreparable glass cut that wouldn’t seal or plug, which meant the tube replacement would burst through the tire. Fortunately, we were close enough to Flagstaff and were able to call AAA to help us get to a bike shop. Had this happened after our first tire incident near Richfield, Utah, we would have been in a jam due to the lack of bike shops and the desolation we faced over the last week. It’s not surprising that we had tire problems on this section of the road, as Highway 89 has been filled with glass and is hands down the worst road we’ve encountered so far. Having ridden over 1,500 miles since leaving Seattle and only experiencing two flats is not bad, but it has prompted me to rethink our tire repair protocol. I plan on getting some expert advice at the bike shop during our rest days in Flagstaff.

Reaching Flagstaff is another milestone. We started this trip in Seattle, WA, just 135 miles from the Canadian border, and now we’re in Flagstaff, AZ, which is 375 miles from the Mexican border. It’s been quite a journey from Northwest to Southwest, a route we had to take due to the constraints of biking across the country in the fall. After resting, we will finally start heading due east. Although we still have some desolate riding ahead, we will have many more road options compared to our previous section on the busy and often shoulderless Highway 89 through Utah and Arizona. For now, it’s time to rest, resupply, enjoy Flagstaff, and plan our ride east toward Savannah. 

And one last very important thing, the 49ers won last night and are hopefully back on track!  We won’t be riding for the next couple of days, so there will be no writing. Until Sunday, adios!

Love, 

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

Today’s ride was entirely through Navajo reservation land, and the Cameron Trading Post where we are staying is also on reservation land. Riding through this area was fascinating. It was desolate, remote, dry, and hot. The 77-mile ride made me wonder how and why this land was designated as  for America’s native people. The land itself is largely inhospitable for productive agriculture, housing, water, or the resources necessary for people to thrive. These conditions seem endemic across reservation lands in the country, prompting reflection on the many challenges facing Native American communities across the United States.

It was an arduous ride today, especially after yesterday’s challenges, but we pulled it off. We faced over a 35-mile climb followed by a downhill with a strong headwind. We can’t say it was fun or our favorite ride, but we made it. Tomorrow, we have another tough ride—about a fifty-mile gradual climb to Flagstaff. This will be our final ride before taking at least two, but most likely three, days off for rest, recuperation, and fun in the very cool city of Flagstaff, AZ. We are more than ready for a break from riding. Until tomorrow….

Love, Andy

Greetings all!

Another tough day... Lots of uphill...35 straight miles of it, in fact! We had a head wind, too, that kept getting stronger as the day wore on so that even when we finally hit some down hill sections, we had to pedal to keep ourselves moving forward!  We were really good about stopping every half hour and hydrating and micro-dosing nutrients, so it went better than expected, until the last 20 miles of the ride.  Then it ws just plain drudgery.  The road shoulder was not great and we were on the Highway 89 again, which made the ride less than pleasant.  Still lots of RV's, motor homes, and trailers  which we were competing with for road space on a road with little shoulder.  

The last three days, we have been in the heart of the National Parks:  Bryce Canyon, Zion, and the Grand Canyon.  We have chosen not to visit any of these... not because we didn't want to, but because we did not want to compete with the hoards of travelers to this part of the world on the narrow, twisty roads going into these places.  To bike into these parks, we would have had to take two extra days for each excursion to bike in an out of the parks.  None of them are very easy to access.  Somehow, trying to see the natural beauty of these places with hoards of others from all over the world in buses and RV's, etc, was not what we really want to do.  Perhaps, we will come back during a time that we can enjoy them without such crowds. 

Tomorrow, we head to Flagstaff... a place I am excited to visit.  We are staying there for 3-4 days so we can relax and recuperate.  I am looking forward to it!

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

Planning an across-USA itinerary when not camping and relying solely on hotels, Airbnb, and RV parks, with housing can be a little tricky, especially in the West where empty space seems almost endless when riding a bike. I remember planning this section of the ride back in July, wondering if we had the stamina, conditioning, and tenacity to pull off the segment that goes from Provo, UT, to Flagstaff, AZ. There were three sections that stood out: Kanab, UT, to Page, AZ; Page to Cameron Trading Post (which has a small hotel in between Page and Flagstaff); and the tough ascent ride into Flagstaff. A three-day ride with hydration, food, and sleeping stops separated by about 70-plus-mile intervals. The rides looked daunting on paper, but we hoped that after being over a month into our journey, we would be conditioned both physically and mentally to pull it off.

Today was the first day of this three-day, for lack of a better term, "holy shit" set of rides! Our ride was supposed to start early, but due to the recent continual comedy of errors we’ve been experiencing, we started late because I lost and could not find my expensive and much-needed sunglasses, especially here in the Southwest. After stopping at a Kanab gas station, where I purchased a $10 pair of sunglasses that fit over my prescription glasses, we took off toward Page, which turned out to be a brutal 75-mile ride into strong headwinds, crosswinds, and absolutely no, none—absolutely zero—tailwind. To make matters more challenging, the ride began with a grinding three-hour climb in high temperatures. It was one of those rides that could break you unless you are able to maintain focus, teamwork and find the zen necessary to make it to your destination. Seven riding hours (eight total hours) after leaving, with a series of short breaks, a bit of a fall into a sand trap, and a concerned good Samaritan who stopped as we took a break along the long and empty road to make sure we had enough water and gave us two chilled bottles, which we absolutely needed, we made it to Page safe and sound.

Tomorrow we will take on the second stage, which will take us to Cameron Trading Post, mostly off the main highway and along the lightly traveled Navajo Route 20, which will hopefully be sealed. It’s an 81-mile ride to Cameron Trading Post with no hydration or food stops along the way. We are packing extra water and Gatorade for this one, so our bikes will be loaded down with fluids. Looking forward to seeing what tomorrow will bring.

Love, 

Andy

Three postcards ago I referenced Tom Petty's song about how "some days are diamonds, some days are rocks."  Well, today was somewhat of a boulder.  It should have been a fabulous ride, but we had a few things working against us:

1.  A headwind.  My Windy App got it all wrong for the second time this trip.  I think it is because we were in some mountainous areas and who can predict the wind in those cases?!  

2. A narrow/non-existent shoulder.  Highway 89 let us down.  It started off with a great shoulder, but quickly whittled down to almost nothing, giving no hedge room for traffic whipping by us.

3.  RV's and motorhomes.  I will only say one thing:  If you ever get an RV or motorhome and see cyclists on the side of the road, please slow down and give them wide berth, as most people do, as the amount of air you push out on a cyclist on the side of the road is enormous and makes it really hard for us to hold on to our bikes and keep them in a straight line, not to mention scare the hell out of us! 

4. Ouch!  A puncture on my rear tire, spraying sealant all over me.  Thank goodness, the sealant worked and the tire kept intact the rest of the ride.

5. Two big climbs (28 gentler miles and 5 steep miles). Normally, I like the challenge of a climb and throw myself into it, but under the conditions of #1-3, this was rough.  

6. Two long downhills (22 and 12 miles each).  Again, they could have been spectacular, but under conditions #1-3... not so much.

7. I know we passed by some great scenery, but due to conditions  #1-3, I think I missed a lot of it.  Some intense concentration was required pretty much non-stop. We did manage to stop periodically and grab some great photos, though! 

8. And then, there are the bone-headed moves of some people ... namely, ME.  We had stopped well off the side of the road to take a photo and, when we took off again, we had to climb back over a lip onto the road.  Rather than maneuver my bike over the lip, I thought I'd just charge it, despite multiple warnings from Andy that that was not a wise move.  I proved him right.  Down I went in a spectacular splay of ridiculousness right on the edge of the road.  I scurried out of the way as fast as I could, only to discover that I had sliced and mangled the skin inside of my right arm...how that happened, I am still unsure.  (I can hear my dad's voice in my mind saying:  "how could that accident have been prevented?")   Well... we bandaged it up with my trusty first aid kit, rode the remainder 35 miles to Kanab, and I received 5 stitches and a tetanus shot at the ER, along with my humble pie.  

I am so glad this day is over, but I can say I am wiser for the wear and tear, and not at all daunted.  Still loving the adventure!
Love, 

Molly

Hello everyone!

We woke up this morning to a clear day, but COLD - the first time we could really feel that fall is in the air.   I pulled out my warm wool shirt from the bottom of the pack as was grateful for it!  

Today's bike ride took us further south along highway 89, where we spotted road sides for Bryce Canyon, Zion National Park, and Phoenix, Arizona for the first time!  Many trees are turning yellow now, but one of people we met at the cafe where we had breakfast said that this fall's colors are nothing compared to previous years, due to Utah's  hot and dry summer.  This explains why we have lately seen so many trees dried, brown leaves lately.

Another sure sign of autumn we witnessed today, were large flocks of migrating Swainson's Hawks.   I learned that they fly around 12,000 miles between their breeding grounds of the western prairies and grasslands of Canada and their wintering areas in Argentina!  Only Peregrine Falcons migrate further. Because of these long migrations, the birds will spend at least 6 months in flight between the northern and southern hemispheres.  For this reason, Andy and I have decided that these birds are our new totem, as this is what we like to do!

When the hawks fly, they soar in vast flocks, swooping and circling on rising thermals before forming V's and drafting their way south, only to swoop and circle again as they find a new thermal.  As they circle, the flock changes color from gray to white as the sun reflects of their backs and then their bellies.  The whole flock does this with such synchronicity that it is astounding to watch.  I just wish I could have got a much better picture than we did!  

Love, 

Molly

Dear Family and Friends, 

We had an awesome 50-mile ride today from Maryvale to Panguitch, UT. After a filling and fun pancake breakfast at the Prospector’s Cafe, we set off onto a relatively empty highway and enjoyed the breathtaking scenery of southern Utah. Throughout our trip, we’ve experienced warm summer weather, but this morning felt different; it was cold at the start, and it wasn't until about noon that we warmed up enough to take off our jackets. We stopped at Butch Cassidy’s childhood home in Circleville, UT, which was a cool stop. The curators did a great job documenting Butch Cassidy’s story and the history of the time. It’s fascinating to ride slowly through these places and imagine what life was like here so many years ago.

We made it to Panguitch just in time for the 49ers game, which they lost again in another heartbreaking fashion! I won’t say more, as they’re simply frustrating to watch. They play Seattle on Thursday, which is a must-win game.

Tomorrow, we ride near Bryce Canyon to Kanab, UT, our last destination in Utah before heading into Arizona. We have a series of long rides ahead as we make our way toward Flagstaff, so tonight we’ll nurse our 49er wounds, evaluate our routes for the stretch to Flagstaff, and determine when to best use our rest days for some off-bike sightseeing in this incredibly beautiful part of the world.

Love, 

Andy

Dear Family and Friends,

Bike shops are few and far between in central Utah, so we were fortunate to find Luigi’s Bike Repair Shop in Richfield. Once we arrived, Mario, the owner, and his young son got right to work on the repair. They did quite a bit of troubleshooting and had us up and running again by 1:00 PM. There’s something reassuring about having a skilled mechanic working on your bike, and we truly appreciate the time, care, and advice he offered.

Mario reflects the many people we’ve met on our adventure. There is a genuine curiosity, support, and encouragement regarding the journey we’ve embarked on. On the flip side, we’ve been humbled by the stories we’ve heard along the way. These simple encounters highlight the power of human connection and the commonalities we all share. This is the essence of our ride across America.

Today’s ride was somewhat abbreviated due to the bike repair, but thanks to Mario’s work, we were able to continue our journey from Richfield and reach our originally planned destination in Maryvale, Utah. We had a spectacular ride through Maryvale Canyon on a rail-to-trail cycleway. I think this is the smallest town we’ve stayed in, but we found a decent roadside hotel and a simple restaurant—just what we need to prepare for another day of riding. Tomorrow, we head toward Bryce Canyon and will be staying in Panguitch, hopefully in time to see the 49ers take on the Cardinals!

Love,

Andy

Hello everyone!

Pardon me, dear reader, as I take today’s postcard to a slightly macabre side of life. There has been a persistent unpleasant odor during our bike journey that I haven’t mentioned before. No, it’s not the stench of manure from dairy farms, the fumes from passing trucks, or the whiff of dried sweat on our biking jerseys. This is the unmistakable scent of death and rotting corpses. 

If you are curious about the local wildlife, you need only venture down the local farm road.  There, you'll evidence of the region's fauna - specimens that didn't make it across the roadway during their migrations. On a bicycle, you can't help but see and smell these unfortunate casualties.  Over our trip so far, (which, by the way started exactly one month ago!) we have seen quite the menagerie of life (and death.)  

The saddest cases are the pets:  the dogs or cats that met their demise while crossing roads.  The most common victims? Deer - mostly white-tailed and mule deer.  They tend to be the most fragrant...maybe because they are the largest.  However, nothing compares to the flattened skunk, where the pungent, oily scent from it's spray glands mingles with the smell of decomposition.  

The Biology teacher in me has felt compelled to keep track of the species we've encountered plastered on the road, and here's what I've logged so far: butterflies, beetles, grasshoppers (by the thousands!), squirrels,  raccoons, porcupines, skunk, rabbits, mice, fox, coyote, deer, snakes (some are rattlesnakes!), songbirds, hawks, magpies, and a pheasant.   For many of these I could see the whole animal; for others, I relied on fur, feathers, tails, paws, and even skeletons for identification. 

The three most noteworthy specimens I have seen up to this point are:

1. A bullfrog: It’s fascinating to see just how flat a bullfrog can get.

2. A chicken: Not because the animal is unusual, but because it reminded me of The Far Side cartoons by Gary Larson. There it lay, flat as a sheet of cardboard, with its feet splayed out. The only part that wasn’t completely squashed was the wingtip feathers, which, oddly enough, stood straight up and blew in the breeze, as if the chicken were waving a final goodbye. 

3. A jackrabbit:  This one was flat as a pancake in the center of the highway with one lone long ear standing straight up as if it were still trying to listen for oncoming traffic. 

Who knows...later on in Texas, I may even see an armadillo!

Love,

Molly

Dear Family and Friends,

When driving on the interstate freeways of the U.S., the Frontage Road Exit is a common stop for filling up with gas or loading up on snacks for the journey ahead. Our bike trip has taken us along several frontage roads, as cycling on the Interstates is, for good reason, prohibited. Today’s ride from Provo to Nephi, UT, included a strange stretch of frontage road that twisted and turned near I-15, a 1,434-mile freeway running north to south from northern Montana, near the Canadian border, to southern California, near the Mexican border.

At one point, the sights and sounds overwhelmed my senses: the loud noise of cars and trucks filled one ear, while pastoral sounds of farms, birds, and the whispering wind filled the other. I saw the steep Wasatch Mountains reaching toward the sky, grazing horses, open farmland, an unending stream of fast cars and trucks releasing exhaust, and endless lines of trains heading to their destinations near and far. Oddly, nearby track housing and real estate developments, all combined together to form a strange clash of American life.

We finished today's ride feeling strong. We have some challenging rides ahead as we make our way through Arizona, but we feel we’re pacing ourselves well. Tomorrow will be another relatively short ride—about 44 miles to Gunnison, Utah, a small town named after John Gunnison, who surveyed the transcontinental railroad in 1853. We’re looking forward to several small-town experiences over the next week!

Love,

Andy