MAINTAINING YOUR NEW LAWN OR LANDSCAPE

There is no definitive amount of time to water a newly seeded lawn. There are far too many variables to take into account. Soil temperature, ambient temperature, relative humidity, soil type, micro-climates, directional exposures in relation to the sun, Urban Heat Island Effect (UHI) on plants grown in cities with lots of heat absorbing surfaces, etc. This guide is designed to give you a general idea.

The primary goal when you water a newly seeded lawn is to keep the top ½" inch of soil consistently damp. Dryness at any point during

germination can kill the tiny seedlings before they even have a chance to sprout properly.

The most critical aspect of a newly seeded lawn is to keep the top ½" of soil damp but not saturated and water-logged. This will require daily watering in the absence of natural rainfall. Watering in the early morning hours is favored over midday and, especially, evening watering. If conditions warrant watering midday because the top ½” of soil is drying up then it will be necessary.

The best time to water new grass seed is typically in the early morning, between 6:00 AM and 10:00 AM.

• Morning Watering: This allows the water to soak into the soil before the heat of the day causes rapid evaporation. It also gives the grass blades time to dry off during the day, reducing the risk of fungal diseases

• Avoid Evening Watering: Watering in the late evening can leave the grass blades wet overnight, creating an ideal environment for fungal growth and diseases to develop

Fertilizing a new lawn is a delicate balance. Too much can burn the tender seedlings, while too little won't provide the necessary nutrients for growth.

When you should fertilize your new grass seed depends on what you applied during soil preparation. 

If you incorporated a starter fertilizer into the soil during preparation, you generally don't need to fertilize again for the first 3-5 weeks after seeding. The initial fertilizer should provide enough nutrients for early growth. 

The ideal time to apply your first post-germination fertilizer is typically when the grass reaches about 1-1.5 inches in height.

Choosing the Right Fertilizer:

• Starter Fertilizer (First Application): An N-P-K ratio of 1-1-1 is recommended. 19-19-19 is our preference

• Follow-Up Fertilizers: Once the grass is established, you can switch to a balanced fertilizer or one tailored to the season and your lawn's specific needs

Application Tips:

• Dilute: It's often best to use a slow-release fertilizer, or to dilute the fertilizer slightly, for new grass to avoid burning

• Even Distribution: Use a spreader for even application

• Water After Fertilizing: Water the lawn lightly after applying fertilizer to help it dissolve and move into the soil, and to wash any granules off the grass blades

Mowing is an important part of lawn maintenance, but for a new lawn, it requires a gentle touch.

When to Mow New Grass Seed

You should mow newly seeded lawn when the grass reaches approximately 1/3 taller than your desired mowing height, and the blades are strong enough to stand upright. For most grass types, this is around 2.5 to 3 inches tall.

• Avoid Mowing Too Soon: Never mow when the grass is still very short and delicate - this can pull the seedlings out of the ground

• Wait for First Mowing: Wait until you see the grass blades have grown to a noticeable height, typically 3-4 inches

Proper Mowing Techniques

• Raise the Mower Deck: For the first mowing, raise your mower's cutting height to the highest setting. The goal is to lightly trim the tips of the grass blades, not to cut much off

• Use a Sharp Blade: A sharp mower blade ensures a clean cut, which helps the grass heal quickly and reduces the risk of disease. Dull blades tear the grass, leaving it vulnerable and can uproot new grass plants

• Avoid Scalping: Never cut the grass too short. Scalping can damage the grass and expose the soil, leading to weed growth and drought stress

• Mulch Clippings: Leave the grass clippings on the lawn. They act as a natural fertliizer, returning valuable nutrients to the soil. Any excess thatch visible should be removed so it does not shade or smother new seedlings

• Don't Mow Wet Grass: Ensure the grass is dry before mowing to prevent clumping and potential disease spread

Observation: Regularly inspect your new lawn for signs of fungal growth. Some diseases, such as Pythium Blight, are more common on new seedlings. This fungus is typically present from overwatering but often times weather conditions driven. Pythium has the potential to kill sections of new grass.

Good Air Circulation: Avoid overwatering and dense plantings that can encourage fungal growth.

Weeds are the natural enemy of a new lawn - competing for water, nutrients, and sunlight.

Healthy Grass: The best weed control is a thick, healthy lawn. By following property watering, fertilizing, and mowing practices, you create an environment where grass can outcompete weeds.

Herbicides (Use with Extreme Caution):

• Pre-Emergent Herbicides: These prevent weed seeds from germinating. However, they can also prevent grass seed from germinating, so they should never be used on or around newly seeded areas

• Post-Emergent Herbicides: These kill existing weeds. When using them on a new lawn, you must be extremely careful:

  • • • Timing: Waiting until the grass has been mowed at least 2-3 times and is well established

      • Tolerance: For the first few weeks, it's often best to tolerate a few weeds and focus on getting the grass established. Once the grass is stronger, you can employ more aggressive weed control methods

There is no definitive amount of time to water new plantings. There are far too many variables to take into account. Soil temperature, ambient temperature, relative humidity, soil type, micro-climates, directional exposures in relation to the sun, Urban Heat Island Effect (UHI) on plants grown in cities with lots of heat absorbing surfaces, etc. This guide is designed to give you a general idea.

Proper Watering: Water all new plantings once a week for the first two months after planting. We prefer infrequent deep watering versus light daily watering. For the rest of the season, watering once every two weeks should be adequate unless we get into an especially hot and dry spell. We prefer a small sprinkler allowed to water for an hour or more. This will allow water to slowly be absorbed by the mulch and soil underneath. Moving the sprinkler to make sure adequate water is applied to the entire root system may be necessary

Not Sure if Your New Plantings Need Water? Simply put your finger through the mulch onto the top layer of the soil. If the soil is cool and damp, you are set. If it feels fairly dry, it's time to water

Mulching is another key to improving survival and early growth on newly planted trees and shrubs.

Mulching provides multiple benefits for plants:

• Conserves soil moisture

• Slows down evaporation rates

• Avoids soil temperature extremes

• Releases nutrients as it breaks down - providing food and natural organic matter for the roots to absorb, helping with establishment

Some trees need staking, especially in exposed areas. 

This includes balled & burlapped trees. Even though a heavy root ball may make a tree seem secure when planted, trees can pivot on the ball during a heavy wind. The biggest issue with staking is failure to remove staking materials - this results in girdling of the trunk. Make sure that all staking materials are removed after one season.