The U-Turn Mittens are so named because each row makes a U-Turn, designated with the ∩ symbol in the pattern. You cast-on along the outside edge of the thumb, then work ∩-shaped rows, grafting the mitten closed once you reach the far side of side of the little finger.
GAUGE
This recipe is adaptable for any gauge; sizing is specified in inches. Samples were worked 6 sts/12 rows = 1-inch in garter stitch
MATERIALS
Circular needle, 36 inches or longer. Although mittens are knit flat, you work the ∩ bend like magic loop. (See diagram.)
Split ring or safety pin style stitch markers
Yarn choice is variable; DK, worsted, and Aran yarns work best for mittens. Samples were worked in worsted yarn on 3.75mm (US 5) needles.
SIZING
After knitting your gauge swatch, determine the following measurements in inches:
Length: Measure from the tip of your thumb to the point on your wrist where the cuff should end
Cuff: Measure from the base of your thumb to that same point where the cuff should end
Thumb: Measure from the thumb crotch to thumb tip
Finger: Measure from thumb crotch to tip of index finger
Record these measurements, and multiply them by the number of stitches in 1 inch.
Cuff stitches are measurement x gauge.
All others (cast-on length, thumb, and finger) are measurement x gauge minus 3 stitches.
PATTERN NOTES
These mittens were directly inspired by Woolly Wormhead's Lateralis collection, and make use of her innovative construction techniques, including winding cast-on and garter stitch grafting. Please visit Woolly's tutorial pages for helpful instructions.
∩ = midpoint of round. This marks either the tip of the thumb or the top of the mitten, when the row switches direction, from front to back or back to front, and you knit back towards the cuff. Rotate (do not flip) the work as for magic loop, bringing the held bottom stitches up to the top to work the second half of the row.
w&t = wrap and turn. In garter stitch, the wraps disappear, so you don't need to pick them up. You can substitute with your preferred short row technique; German short-rows work very well.
Odd numbered rows are right-side; even are wrong-side.
DIRECTIONS
As directed in the SIZING section, multiply the length measurement (in inches) by your gauge in stitches per inch. Subtract 3. This is your cast-on number. Using the winding or Turkish cast-on method, cast-on that many loops. Knit each loop.
Example: if the length from thumb tip to bottom of mitten is 8-inches and gauge is 6 stitches per inch, you will wind on 45 stitches, then knit 45. This set-up row is a wrong-side row.
Multiply cuff measurement by gauge to determine number of cuff stitches. Clip a marker that many stitches from each end of the row.
Thumb
Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before ∩, kfb, k1, ∩, k1, kfb, knit to marker, w&t.
Row 2 (WS): Knit to marker, w&t.
Row 3: Knit to 2 sts before ∩, kfb, k1, ∩, k1, kfb, knit to 2 sts before last turn, w&t.
Row 4: Knit to 2 sts before last turn, w&t.
Rows 5-6: Repeat rows 3-4.
[Opt 7-8. Repeat row 4.]
Row 9: Knit to 3 sts before ∩, ssk, k1, ∩, k1, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before last turn, w&t.
Row 10: Knit to 2 sts before last turn, w&t.
Rows 11-14: Repeat rows 9-10.
Row 15: Knit to ∩. Break yarn leaving 20-24 inch tail. Using ridge-high garter-stitch grafting, close the thumb. (The number of stitches to graft varies depending on your thumb measurement above. Remember to subtract 3 stitches from the total.)
Use remaining tail to continue knitting RS row to end of cuff, joining working yarn when necessary.
Thumb Web
We now make a small wedge to bridge gap between the base of the thumb and the side of the index finger. Depending on your gauge and thumb length, you may need to adjust these numbers up or down slightly to avoid double-wrapping a stitch.
(WS) Knit to ∩, k5 (or 6 if turning here would double-wrap the next stitch); w&t.
(RS) K5, ∩, k5, w&t.
(WS) K5, ∩, k9, w&t.
(RS) K9, ∩, k9, w&t.
(WS) K9, ∩, k13, w&t.
(RS) K13, ∩, k13, w&t.
(WS) K13, ∩. Wind yarn under and up around back needle and front cable for finger stitches (see SIZING directions). Knit the new stitches on back needle, and continue this WS row until end of cuff.
Finishing
Remove provisional cast-on and return live stitches to a second needle. Graft first and last rows together. (Again, I recommend Woolly Wormhead's instructions for grafting garter stitch.) Alternatively, you can join using three-needle bind-off.
Sew the cast-on and bind-off rows of thumb closed.
Credits
This pattern was inspired by the "Cumberland Mitten" pattern reproduced in Knitting for Tommy: Keeping the Great War Soldier Warm by Lucinda Gosling (2014). I mashed it up with one of my favorite sideways-knit handwarmer constructions: Cat Bordhi's Guadalupe Mitts. To adjust the fit for a tighter cuff and longer fingers, I adapted shaping techniques from Woolly Wormhead's sideways-knit hats, particularly her Elemental collection.