25 October - Knightsbridge
Today, from country to city. I seem finally to have shrugged off the jet lag, stiffness and fug - perhaps with the help of some Chinese healing in the Strand.
I become a Sloane Ranger for a day, and head up to one of the worlds most well known shopping districts, Knightsbridge. And while on the trot, I see Buckingham Palace, Hyde Park and Trafalgar Square.
This is a section of the bus map, with my days journey marked on it. The solid lines are bus legs, and the dotted my walking tours between. As you can see, I walked a fair old distance.
In fact theres a lot of interesting sights to be had just by gawping out the window of a double-decker. This next view is the incredible [Battersea Power Station|http://www.thepowerstation.co.uk/] designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott. Its four massive chimneys dominate the skyline in this area, and the Art Deco lines give the building an imposing presence even with its long disuse.
I crossed the Chelsea Bridge and snapped this image of a gold seraph at the top of its end columns. In the background, cranes confirm the lively building activity in London.
My plan was to head up to Sloane Square, and discover the shops and labels I'd heard about; Gucci, Prada and Harrods. I discovered a few other gems as well.
Here in Lower Sloane Street, just south of the Square, magnificent brick facades overlook the shoppers. On top a dragon is perched, basking in the sun.
This is Cadogan Hall, and converted from a Christian Science church it now is a base for the Royal Philharmonic. That's one of their trucks outside, and they were unloading instruments and equipment from it as I walked past.
In the Sloane area, I walked down the Kings Road. There's a number of fairly approachable shops such as Gap, as well as incredibly expensive stores. In one I pawed at a leather skirt for £850, and looked at some mens shirts for £125.
At the wall of the Duke of Yorks Headquarters is a area of malls and shops, some very modern - all glass and steel to display the better their costly wares. Here motorcycles and scooters lined up, show their popularity amongst Londoners, especially shopping and commuting. The silver column to the left is actually a light standard.
I found the wonderful John Sandoe books tucked away off Kings Rd. This tiny 18th century building, has three levels connected by a narrow spiral stair. Everywhere (even the stair) is piled high with books. Near the door were books wrapped for delivery. Mrs A, her books addressed to her at C/- The Sloane Club were on the top of the pile.
There was a good selection of Bertrand Russell, and JRR Tolkein, both authors with titles I hadnt seen. I couldnt imagine a more appropriate bookstore and if I'd had time and money I could've spent the whole morning there.
But a store a little larger had to be visited: here as I leave Sloane Square we see a Harrods van, contending with London cabs and buses showing the prevalence of this store. Everywhere were shoppers with Harrods bags and parcels.
So inevitably I headed to Knightsbridge by bus. On arrival, the throng of tourists and fashionable shoppers redoubles - Knightsbridge Rd here seen from the mouth of the tube station.
Construction works, and heavy traffic made the narrow footpaths hazardous as I navigated the thronging crowd.
Harrods is an enormous building. At this entrance, a Harrods Security chap in a smart black uniform stood like a promontory in the sea, waves of shoppers breaking and flowing either side of him, in through the heavy brass doors.
Shopping inside is divided into halls and arcades, all themed. Theres the famous food halls, with myriad types of chocolates, teas and coffees.
This is the Luxury Hall, with fabulous watches and stellar prices. Items feel like a museum display but with price tags.
To get from floor to floor, there are other stairs, but everyone rides the Egyptian Escalators, gliding down past manequins dressed in things for sale.
The toilets have large queues, and are also labelled "Luxury". It seems we are here to chip off a bit of luxury for ourselves, from this mother lode. I had thought of Harrods as being something of a flash sort of department store, which perhaps it is, but it is also like a palace; a model for all other department stores over which it rules.
And I didnt buy a thing. Though I was tempted by the section labelled "Harrods PVC" which contained a plethora of the signature Harrods bags, the £17.95 price tag put me off and out the door.
On the bus again, and heading for the other Palace, home of Queen Elizabeth, Buck House. Some time ago there was an [intruder|http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/july/9/newsid_2498000/2498731.stm] and it seems Her Majesty has not forgiven the constabulary who for their penance patrol all parts of the palace on foot and on horseback.
This view shows the Royal Mews, the Queens Gallery newly built is just out of view to the right. Here a bewildering array of souvenirs and postcards can be bought.
As I arrived at the palace proper, the last rays of the afternoon sun were going down behind its imposing facade, but still caught the golden statuary in its forecourt.
The Queen had some visitors actually; waiting at the gates were the [Paralympians|http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/front_page/3746302.stm] returned from triumphs in Greece.
The Palace is set in verdant grounds, with the large green Hyde Park nearby, and the smaller Green Park, just across Constitution Hill.
After the cold bit, I set off again from the Palace to catch some of the last sun up Horse Ride - the road that leads toward central London from the Palace. On my left buildings to support the Royal operation: the Royal Chapel, Stables, and administration. Heading up into Pall Mall, the buildings become Embassies, head offices and gentlemans clubs.
Parked there I saw this big-brother-ish van, actually there to monitor breaches of the new London congestion charge. Designed to keep vehicles out of Londons most congested areas, it explains the popularity of scooters and motorcyles.
I was a bit lost - despite my map it was difficult to see exactly where I needed to go to catch the bus. Luckily I found the [London Visitor Centre|http://www.visitbritain.com/VB3-en-GB/practicalinformation/factsheets/touristinformation/britain_london_visitorcentre.aspx] near the intersection of Pall Mall and Regent Street. There's lots of free information there - and a helpful chap from the London transport gave me some directions and a bus map.
Trafalgar Square was the next stop for me on the way to the faithfull 77a to Clapham. Its an imposing thing, and the ever present pigeons were fewer but still there.
A busy day, lots of miles, so nothing for it but off to the pub.