Parts List

A reasonably comprehensive list of parts and modifications where needed. Where applicable I have indicated suppliers - the rest was from ebay or friends.

Air

Triumph PI Manifolds

The early ones are better for flow and neater - but either type will do. The injector holes need drilling out to around 13.5mm - a 14mm drill bit works though may be slightly loose so take care. Machine the area behind the threaded keeper plate hole parallel and flat to the face above where the injectors sit. Give yourself enough clearance around here for the ring end of a 1/2AF spanner.

Triumph PI Airbox, rubbers and jubilee clips

Chop down the front of the airbox to give you some more space for the filter/duct - as close to the no.1 outlet. The hose clips for the airbox rubbers are 60mm and you need 12 - it's critical they are properly air tight and secure.

Throttle Body: Rover 200/400/MGF

Comes in three sizes; 48, 52 and 56mm (estimated 130, 150 and 180bhp - be realistic and you'll get a nice linear throttle action)

Comes with throttle position sensor built in (needs 3-pin JT connector)

I used the standard 2500S HS6 throttle cable that I already had, I just shortened it by around 50mm. To secure the adjuster to the throttle body cable bracket I made some C washers out of a couple of 1/4 (7/16AF) washers.

3 way JT connector for throttle position sensor (http://www.polevolt.co.uk/)

Plus terminals, seals and boot.

Fuel

Injectors: Vauxhall Vectra V6 (Bosch: 0 280 155 712)

213cc/min @ 3 bar (43.5PSI)

195cc/min @ 2.5 bar (36.3PSI)

16.0ohm

These are rated at 190 and 160bhp at the respective pressures. The main body is slimmer than a lot of other injectors so the throttle bodies do not need machining around this area.

Injector O-rings

Good idea to replace with fresh ones. They are the standard Bosch injector size.

2 way JT connector for injectors (http://www.polevolt.co.uk/)

You'll need 6 of them, plus terminals, seals and boots.

Fuel Pressure Regulator (Bosch: 0 280 160 221)

2.5 bar with push on fittings. Using this with the Vectra V6 injectors means they are rated to 160bhp.

Fuel Rail - Dash 6 (http://www.rossmachineracing.com/)

Tap ends to 9/16 UNF (AN6 thread)

Unions for fuel rail - all AN6 and standard hose fitting (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Torques-U-K)

Male-Male w/ 1/8NPT side port (if using a pressure gauge)

Male-Male

180 Swivel

Straight Swivel

Hose Separator

Aluminium Spacers for fuel rail to inlet manifolds (http://www.aluminumspacers.com/)

5/16" hole - 1 inch and 1/4 inch length - you will need to measure once machined. You'll also want bolts this length plus the thickness of the body and enough length to go in to the fuel rail - I used 1.75" long bolts.

Seals for unions to fuel rail: Dowty Washers (M14) (http://www.396hose.co.uk/webcat/Detprod.asp?ProductCode=T0400720)

Make sure they are fuel resistant - Nitrile or Viton (better)

For JIC6/AN6 9/16UNF you need M14 size.

Sytec Fuel Injection Pressure Gauge

This is optional - you will need an AN6 Male-Male with NPT take off - it is not intended for permanent fitting. I couldn't get mine to seal so ended up removing it.

1/8 NPT Blanking Plug

For when the pressure gauge is not being used.

Swirl Pot: CAV Filter (http://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/single-filter-assembly-deep-aluminium-bowl-p-450.html)

Drill and tap take off at the bottom for fuel pump supply feed via a banjo. The inlet should also requires banjo.

Various Banjo Fittings for CAV filter (http://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/filter-head-banjo-fitting-p-374.html)

1/2UNF for CAV filter head and bottom take off, you'll also need blanking plugs and copper washers.

Fuel Pump: Sytec FP601 (http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/)

8mm push on fittings on both input and output - use cotton reel fixings for noise isolation and a coil clamp or two to mount in the boot.

High Pressure Fuel Filter (http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/fuel-filter--clips-inout-8mm-ssfc5160c-1079-p.asp)

Various T-pieces, joiners, reducers (http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/)

Sytec Competition Injection Rubber Fuel Hose 8mm ID (http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/)

For the following:

Tank to fuel tap

Fuel tap to CAV filter

CAV filter to pump

Pump to copper pipe

Copper pipe to fuel rail

Fuel rail to regulator

Regulator to copper line

Copper line to tank

5/16in or 8mm OD copper fuel pipe

Enough for two runs from the boot to the engine bay.

Fuel tap w/ 8mm tails

Useful to make less of a mess when changing filters. Turn tap off, loosen air bleed on the CAV filter, turn the ignition on and off a few times to let the system prime (the MS runs the pump for a couple of seconds to bring the system up to pressure and then switches it off until it senses the engine cranking)

Hose clips for fuel hose

A pack of 20 should do.

Spark

Coil Pack: Vauxhall Vectra V6 (Bosch: 0 221 503 010)

This one is good because it sits flat on its feet - where as others do not. It has threaded type connectors so you'll need new HT leads.

90mm x 5mm flat - 150mm long - aluminium bar for coil pack mount

I mounted mine on on the engine block where the fuel pump was. It could also go where where the dizzy mounts.

HT Leads: BMW E34 5-Series (or 3-series of that era)

They are a little long but ok. If you are buying new then it would be worth getting a set custom made.

Spark Plugs: NGK BPR6ES

You need spark plugs with resistors to reduce noise and ensure funny things don't happen with the ECU.

4 way JT connector for coil to Megasquirt (http://www.polevolt.co.uk/)

Also remember terminals, seals and a boot.

Megasquirt ECU (http://www.extraefi.co.uk/ or http://www.diyautotune.com/)

You will want to buy a kit or get your MS built to control the ignition as well as the fuel. There are a lot of options; I went for a v3.0 board and an MS2 processor. I also purchased two extra coil drivers (one comes with the kit already) to run the coil directly from the ECU.

Universal Megasquirt Wiring Harness

Makes wiring up everything very easy, all the cable has what it's meant to be connected to printed along the entire length.

36-1 Trigger Wheel (http://trigger-wheels.com/store/)

Machine a recess for centralisation and drill holes to attach to standard Vitesse fan boss.

Crankshaft Sensor: Ford 948F6C315AA (http://www.ebay.co.uk)

Ideally mount this centrally on the timing cover - no need to remove the sensor when changing the fan belt.

Water Temp Sensor (Lucas: SNB151, 43246; Rover: ADU7161 - late Mini) (http://www.sslautoparts.co.uk)

Has a 5/8 thread so goes straight in to the head where inlet manifold heater outlet goes on carb cars. Seal the water temp sensor with an M16 dowty washer. The sensor has the same temperature values as the Bosch sensors (when calibrating the ECU)

Water Temp Sensor Spacer (http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=37436)

Needed to space the original coolant temp sender so that the new sensor has enough space. Note that your existing dashboard gauge will read slightly cooler - at least mine did.

Air Temp Sensor (Bosch: 0 280 130 060)

M12 x 1.5 thread. You need a proper air temperature sensor, not a water one, as they react quicker to changes in air temperature — this is used for fuelling calculations so it's critical it's realtime. Your under bonnet temperature will go up very quickly as soon as you stop, and quickly go back down as you get back up to speed. The sensor has the same temperature values as the BMW sensor in TunerStudio (when calibrating the ECU)

2 way JT connector for crank and temp sensors (http://www.polevolt.co.uk/)

You'll need 3 of them, plus terminals, seals and boots.

Hose tail for water pipe to heater - 3/8BSP (http://www.chriswitor.com)

As the manifolds no longer need heating, use the outlet towards the rear of the head for the heater supply. This also frees up the outlet on the water pump housing for the temp sensor.

Innovate LC-1 Wideband Controller (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php)

There are others, the TechEdge one looks good also - has a better control box with integral indicators and calibration button.

Junior timer connectors, multi way connectors, relay and fuse boxes, cable, heatshrink and most other electrical stuff (http://www.polevolt.co.uk/)