Day 16 to above Monarch Ski Area

Today was the most contrasting of the whole trip. It was a Saturday, middle of summer and we were hiking the Monarch Crest (the most famous mt biking trail in the entire state) going the wrong direction. Bikers get a lift up Highway 50 to the top of Monarch Pass then spend hours cruising down into Salida. We were cruising up the trail.

The morning was not bad. We left early and got to Marshal Pass before most of the bikers. Marshal Pass is interesting historically. In the 1880's two companies were racing to be the first to get a railroad line over the divide and into the booming mining district around Gunnison. The Denver,South Park&Pacific was trying to tunnel under the Collegiate range (we'd pass by there tomorrow) The Denver&RioGrande chose the longer but more gradual route over Marshal Pass and won. There was a new cabin open to the public for over night stays at Marshal Pass but we had miles to go before we could stop.

We filled up with water at a nice spring and then the crowds arrived. By the end of the day we'd counted 96 mt bikers, 10 dirt bikers and 7 hikers. For us, who'd been used to only an occasional hiker on the trail, it seemed like a mass of humanity. We departed from the CT as it swerved to the east side of the divide. The CDT stayed high and to the west.

Thunderstorms hit late afternoon just as we arrived at the highway and Monarch Pass. To stay dry we ducked into the Monarch Crest store, a curio shop built into the side of the mountain at 12000 feet. The store graciously holds mail sent UPS so we picked up our food resupply box for the next 4 days. Though mainly full of tourist trinkets it did have a nice display on the natural history of the area. Especially interesting was the near by discovery of prehistoric rock walls that were used to funnel game to where the animals could be speared. We decided to have afternoon tea at the snack bar (if hot chocolate, toffee, chili and sausage-egg sandwiches count as tea) and let the rain pass.

The hike that evening was one of the most memorable sections of the trip. Our brief foray with civilization ended as we switched backed above the highway. Soon we were above the grassy slopes of the Monarch ski area. I still think Great Divide ski trail should be a black diamond. Huge granite mountains stretched in every direction. The setting sun turned the surrounding peaks and clouds magenta. We pitched tent right on the divide in the shelter of some boulders. Looking around we realized we were in the middle of the prehistoric game trap. Maybe we had not quite left civilization.