South America

Birthday surprises kept on coming. I thought that the candle in the pancake was really nice, but what transpired during dinner was breathtaking (and not because of the altitude). We were huddling in the group tent 9000 feet above the sea level, some of us bitterly cold and exhausted, chomping on rather delicious goodness prepared by our Quechua guardian angels. Then the tent opens and there walks in Perci, our local guide, with a cake with 25 lit candles. And I’m not talking about some muffin, but a serious multi-tiered masterpiece layered with fruits, berries and whip cream. I was speechless. How in the world did they get this thing all the way up here? It was one of the most touching moments I’ve ever experienced…

August 1 – La Paz, Bolivia (day 30)

…Landed in La Paz, the highest capital in the world. Two of the people in the group left within 5 hours due to altitude sickness. The city is spectacularly situated in a valley surrounded by mighty snowcapped Andes. I met up with old Bolivian friend from Boston and had a pleasure of dining in her grandma’s house on the outskirts of the city.

…Took an overnight, 14hr bus to Sucre (never again), a pleasant, tranquil town known for its traditional folklore music and arts. Spent a day with Gabi and her father, who for the last 35 years has been teaching music and arts to kids from poor families. And there is lots of poverty in Bolivia.

…Off to Potosi, supposedly one of the highest towns in the world at approximately 13,000 feet above the sea level. Apart from the usual altitude effects, ie loss of appetite, headaches and gasping for air after even minor physical exertion, the most fascinating thing was the precipitous drop in temperature in the evenings. As soon as the last sun rays hid behind the mountains I went from wearing flip-flops and a t-shirt to donning on every single piece of clothing at my disposal, including a hat and gloves. No joke. It got really cold, really quickly.

August 10, Solar de Uyuni, Bolivia

…The world’s largest salt flat of Uyuni is by far one of the most spectacular places on this planet. As in Potosi, the altitude of about 10,000 feet brings cold temperatures fast. We huddle in our 4x4, sipping on Jack Daniels. This sunset is the greatest show on Earth. Our shadows extend for what seems like miles, the sky is painted with all sorts of colors, and the air is crispy fresh. At night, we are floored by the incredible spectacle in the sky. This is where astronomy should be taught. The combination of altitude and a complete lack of any light pollution reveal a celestial display like no other.

September 15^th, Ilha Grande, Brazil

…A tropical storm has been raging for the past 2 days. Nothing to do but lay in the hammock, read and write and stare at the ocean – a welcomed change from the hectic pace of the last several weeks of travels.

…The sun is finally out. I’m off to hike Parot’s Peak, and then try to cross the island’s jungle to find some mysterious beach.

…While trying to surf choppy breaks experienced the unforgiving powers of the ocean as I was pummeled by the 6 ft waves and dragged further out by the undercurrent. Adrenaline overdose. Leaving for Rio tmrw.

...I had intended to stay on Ilha Grande for 3 days, but 10 days later I still didn't come to terms that I had to eventually leave this little paradise. I must travel on. I've heard too many stories of travelers getting "stuck" for months on end in places such as this. I can easily see why.

September 30^th, Rosario, Argentina

While lounging on Ipanema beach spontaneously decided that I needed to see more Argentina. Ten hours later I’m in Rosario. Ernesto Guevara was born, and spent his childhood here. I’m feeling rebellious already. In fact, this is first time that I’m traveling solo. Today I didn’t speak a word of English… come to think of it, I haven’t uttered a word at all. Spent the whole day just wondering the streets. Off to Cordoba tmrw and hopefully Mendoza later.

October 20^th - Salvador de Bahia, Brazil (110 days on the road)

…Took an overnight bus to Salvador. Having learned from my previous misfortunes, I booked a more “luxurious” option. The difference was pretty significant and I actually managed to get some sleep. The historic district of the city has all of the characteristics of a walking museum – century old churches, cobble streets and Portuguese colonial buildings…. In the hostel met Leo, an Israeli of Russian descent. Spoke Russian for the first time in many months.

November 1^st, Olinda, Brazil

…Four amazing months on the road, but today I wish I was home for my mom’s birthday. Incredibly, stumbled on a Russian circus in the middle of this Brazilian town. How bizarre. Of course I had to see the show… It was the usual circus show, except the clowns were screaming some vulgar profanities… perhaps much to their amusement since nobody, except myself, understood what they were saying.

November 10, Jericoacoara, Brazil

…Twelve hour bus to Fortaleza, 6 hour bus to Jijaca and one hour on flat truck and I’m finally in idyllic Jery, albeit a very sore behind. For the next week I’m a beach bum, a windsurfer and a capoeira dancer (a laughable spectacle).