Cycling Durres, Albania to Istanbul, Turkey

Via Egnatia

A route for the touring cycle

Prepared by Tom Jones based on journey in April/May 2015

Itinerary and route description:-

The itinerary overview and stage route descriptions are intended to provide a simple reference for those planning a cycling journey along the Via Egnatia. It doesn't attempt to include detail of historical sites although it does include some interesting ones which the route takes you past.

Touring cycle:-

This route is for touring cycles which would not contend with the 'off road' nature of footpaths although there are sections (mostly identified) where minor roads/tracks are uneven and dusty/muddy according to weather conditions.

Route planning & navigation:-

Daily routes were plotted using the 'ridewithgps' website and a Garmin Edge 800 bike computer used to navigate through each stage. Suitable road maps provide an overview (and back up if the technology fails!). A portable charger (back up) is recommended in case of mobile phone/Garmin power loss.

Roads:-

Those given in this overview are taken from the OSM (Open Street Map) system freely available to download to Sat Nav devices like Garmin. From one mapping system to another road references vary considerably.

Accommodation:-

Camping was not considered and only a few places of accommodation are mentioned where these were found to be of particularly good value (less than 21 Euros per night).

Purpose/incentive:-

For me, the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Jerusalem provided the focus for planning and undertaking this journey and the very comprehensive 'Via Egnatia on foot' book was invaluable to finding places of interest and learning about the history/culture of the Balkans from Roman times until today.

Stage by stage itinerary:-

1: Albania - Durres to Elbasan : 85kms

Elevation gain/loss: +343/-215m

Roads: SH4/SH7/SH3 highways

Main highways are unavoidable to make good progress and although traffic is busy it is not unsafe for experienced cyclists. The route rises gradually to Elbasan and the main highway by-passes most towns/villages.

Leaving the ferry terminal building it is possible to use the elevated walkway over the highway to immediately access the town. This covered walkway leads into an open square busy with buses and taxis etc. Banks, ATMs and money exchange shops are available on this square.

Head east out of Durres on the Rruga Adria to the first roundabout (2kms) then join the SH4 (over an elevated walkway on the right is the safest). Hotels and beach resorts line the road. At the next major road junction (7kms) secondary roads run immediately alongside the highway and are easily accessible and much quieter.

Leave the SH4 on a slip road and travel along the Rruga Egnatia to Kavaje (22kms) and beyond Kavaje follow the traffic system turning right to rejoin the SH4 roughly 200m before the road meets the oncoming highway.

Note: do not be tempted to take a dirt track which runs east immediately alongside the 'wrong side' of the highway as this runs out eventually and crossing the highway is a problem and potentially dangerous.

At roughly 36kms leave the SH4 and join the SH7 which leads through Rrogozhine (39kms) towards Peqin and later leave the SH7 on Rruga Beklehem for Peqin (47kms).

The Rruga Egnatia on the northern outskirts of Peqin leads to a section of preserved VE road surface and the remains of a Roman bridge. Follow the track onwards for about 2kms to the village of Fatish from which a road leads back over the railway lines and onto the SH7.

Note: a short section of the track after the bridge is exposed rock and it is safer to dismount and push.

The SH7 now follows the hillside above the River Shumbkin gradually rising on the way to Elbasan. The road passes the decaying former communist steel plant nearing Elbasan and it is possible to navigate down to the Shumbkin where the remains of the stone supporting piers of the massive Roman Topcias bridge are just about visible. Be aware that the final approach to the remains of the Topcias bridge is an ugly wasteland and fences prevent access to the river edge.

From here head into the centre of the city or, if not taking this detour,

stay on the SH7 and join the SH3 which leads directly into the city of Elbasan (85kms).

2: Albania/Macedonia - Elbasan to Struga : 81kms

Elevation gain/loss: + 1248/-683m

Roads: SH3/SH9 in Albania & A2/R1208 in Macedonia

Mostly main highways which are less busy after leaving Elbasan behind. Constant steady climbing with steep ascent over the Quafe Thane pass to border. Fast downhill towards Lake Ohrid.

The traffic system in Elbasan is confusing unless leaving on the main road through the town. With snow capped mountains in sight rejoin the SH3 which hugs the Shumbkin and gradually rise to Mirake (20kms). In Mirake drop down to the Shumbkin to see the spectacular Ottoman Bridge but be prepared to dismount as road quickly becomes a rough track.

Continue rising steadily on the SH3 passing Librazhd (27kms), through Qukes (47kms), past Perrenjas (56kms) before climbing steeply over the Qafe Thane pass. At the top just past the Hotel Odessa take the SH9 left towards the border and continue to climb to over 1000m before levelling off to cross the border into Macedonia.

Downhill on the A2 and as the road levels off take a sharp right turning onto the R1208 into Kalishta on the edge of Lake Ohrid and then follow the lake road into Struga (81kms).

Hotel Montenegro in Struga is very welcoming. Meals and accommodation are very good value.

3: Macedonia – Struga to Bitola : 85kms

Elevation gain/loss: + 942/-1015m

Roads: R1208/A3/R1101

A mix of main highways and quiet secondary roads with two demanding climbs.

Head out of Struga on the R1208 following the lake edge towards Ohrid. Follow a section of cycle path along the water edge after 3 kms and join up with the road further on. In Ohrid (14kms) the roads in the old town are steep and cobbled but well worth the effort to see many ancient historic sites. The fortress of Tsar Samouil is at the high point overlooking the Lake with snow capped mountain ranges in the distance.

Leave Ohrid's main shopping area heading directly away from the Lake to join the A3 in the direction of Kosel. After Kosel (23kms) the road turns into the mountains and starts rising to reach a high point of 1075m after 39kms. Long downhill next passing Krushje, Izbishta and Jankovets before reaching the more substantial town of Resen (53kms).

Take the road though the centre of Resen and rejoin the A3 heading towards a crossroads called Skirtiana (scissor shape) which is of Roman origin. The choice at this point is to continue rising on the A3 or take the (lonely) cobblestoned R1101 which climbs steeply to the top of the Diavato pass (62kms) at 1147m. At the pass top continue downhill on the R1101 or join the A3 towards and into Bitola (85kms).

Hostel Goldy in Bitola is central and very good value.

4: Macedonia/Greece – Bitola to Edessa : 93kms

Elevation gain/loss: + 767/-1062m

Roads: R2333/04-01/A3 in Macedonia & EO3/EO2 in Greece

Combination of little used highways and minor roads/tracks with one main climb in remote countryside.

From the Clocktower in the centre of Bitola follow the length of the main shopping street, cross over the A3 and continue through the landscaped park. The path joins the A3 and within 150m turn right to visit the ancient city remains of Heracleia Lynkestis and then onwards following the R2333. At approximately 13kms near Velushina take a sharp left and follow a road which becomes a track leading back towards Medzhitlija. Meet the A3, turn right and quickly reach the border with Greece. It is of course possible to simply follow the A3 from Bitola to the border crossing.

After the border continue on the EO3 through Niki (20kms) but then leave the EO3 to follow road to Itea (32kms). A shop and bar provide refreshments on a section where few facilities can be found. Onwards, the road starts to climb into Vevi (45kms) and steeply up to Kella (52kms) before dropping down towards Lake Vegoritida and Arnissa (72kms).

The climb out of Arnissa is severe but after the road joins the EO2, which is a busy highway with fast moving traffic, it is mainly downhill to Edessa (93kms)

Famous for its waterfalls the town stands high over the plains stretching to the Aegean Sea.

5: Greece – Edessa to Thessaloniki : 101kms

Elevation gain/loss: +421/-630m

Roads: Mainly EO2

Downhill then mostly flat with a few 'bumps' between Giannitsa and Pella

Steeply downhill from Edessa then flat on the EO2 through Rizari (7kms), Sevastiana, Skidra (14kms) and back on the EO2 to Kariotissa (30kms). The main street through Kariotissa is named Egnatias and there are shops and cafe bars conveniently roadside.Continue on the EO2 through Mellisi (34kms) and turn off the EO2 and rise into the busy town centre of Giannitsa (40kms).

After Giannitsa head for Archontiko where an ancient burial mound (fenced off for protection) is situated. The road continues through Mesiano and Nea Pella before rejoining the EO2. Pella (56kms) and its archaelogical site and museum are within easy reach. Pella being the birthplace of Alexander the Great.

Continue on the EO2 through Chalkidona (64kms) and just after Kato Gefira turn off the busy (EO2a) bypass and skirt past/through Agios Athansios on quieter roads. The road merges in 7kms with the EO2a and continues as a very busy highway as it approaches Thessaloniki.

One option is to continue along the EO2 all the way into the centre of Thessaloniki and contend with very heavy traffic or alternatively turn off the EO2 (just beyond a turning right for Sindos), on an easily missed slip road (not signposted) which joins secondary roads leading through Nea Magnisia and Dendropotamos before linking up with roads leading into the port and beyond into the centre of Thessaloniki (101kms).

Note: roads in this second option lead through industrial waste land areas and good maps/navigation systems are essential.

Thessaloniki is the second largest city in Greece with many historical sites and ancient sections (below ground) of the VE

The Little Big House Hostel is very welcoming, friendly and good value.

6: Greece – Thessaloniki to Stavros: 78kms

Elevation gain/loss: +632/-748m

Roads: Mainly EN20/EO2/EN25 or EN20/EO2/EN22/EN15/EN25

Steep ascent initially then descend to Lakes and flat to coast.

Uphill steeply climbing out of Thessaloniki heading towards the fortified walls and the Trigonio Tower and then right at the summit towards Asvestochori. Continue climbing over the A25 motorway and through wooded slopes passing through Kranos and Exochi and rising to 500+ metres before dropping steeply to Agios Vasileios (20kms) on Lake Koronia.

Rejoin the EO2 which is mainly flat following the lowlands surrounding Lakes Koronia and Volvi. At Lagkadikia (32kms) there are two options:-

(a) to continue along the EO2 on the south side of Lake Volvi passing through Peristerona and Apolonia or

(b) take the quieter EN22/EN15 which runs north of the Lake through Scholari (37kms), Nymfopetra (44kms), Megali Volvi (52kms) and Mikri Volvi (65kms)

Note: few refreshment stops in evidence on this second option

Both routes meet at Rentina (70kms) which is mainly a junction of roads and the EO2 leads on towards the Aegean coast. Turn onto the EN25 which leads into Stavros (78kms)

Stavros is a seaside resort with the usual holiday style accommodation.

7: Greece – Stavros to Kavala : 88kms

Elevation gain/loss: +664/-638m

Roads: Mainly EO2 highway

Flat to begin with then steady climbing over undulating countryside with final steep ascent before dropping sharply to coast.

Follow the coastal road out of Stavros and join the EO2 after approximately 6 kms. Refreshments are available in Nea Kerdilia (24kms) and soon after the road travels immediately past the Lion of Amphipolis before crossing a metal bridge over the River Struma.

Long flat stretches on the EO2 before rising steadily into Galipsos (39kms), Kokkinochori (44kms) Podochori (48kms) and many similar small towns on this scenic road to Eleftheroupoli (72kms). The modern highway Egnatias Odos is visible on the flatter plain below.

Continue on the EO2 and at Stavros climb steeply and then descend into Kavala (88kms)

8: Greece – Kavala to Komotini: 106kms

Elevation gain/loss: +449/-419m

Roads: Mainly EO2/EN1/EN14/EO2

Route constantly up and down but with no significant climbs.

Leave Kavala on the EO2 under the aqueduct and follow the coast through Nea Karvali (13kms), past Pontovilado (20kms), Gravouna (26kms), Neoos Xerias (32kms), Paradiso (41kms), Petrochori (50kms) and uphill into the busy town of Xanti (57kms).

Leave the EO2 in the centre of Xanti and pick up the EN1 to Kimmeria (62kms) and Amaxades (74kms) after which the road becomes the EN14 through Koptero (78kms), Lasmos (84kms) and Poliantho (89kms) before rejoining the EO2 before entering Komitini (106kms).

Note: approx 2 kms after Lasmos a side road (signposted) on the left leads to an ancient Byzantine Bridge which is not accessible without dismounting and following a rough pathway (according to locals) beyond the road bridge. It crosses the River Kompsatos a distance upstream from the road bridge.

9: Greece – Komotini to Allexandroupoli : 68kms

Elevation gain/loss: +497/-563m

Roads: Mainly EO2

Relatively flat as far as Mesti then steady climbing over hills before dropping down into Alexandroupoli.

Leave Komotini on the EO2 passing through Roditis (6kms), Aratos (14kms) and past Sapes (29kms) towards Metsi. The road passes Mesti (38kms) and climbs steadily over the hills with the Egnatia Odos highway running in parallel.

Note: over these hills sections of the Via Egnatia ancient road are easily accessible alongside the road with permanent display boards providing comprehensive information (in Greek/English).

The road drops down to follow the coast past Makri (55kms), nea Chili (63kms) before arriving in Alexandroupoli (68kms).

Large town with all facilities and holiday resorts alongside the sandy beaches approaching the town.

10: Greece/Turkey – Alexandroupoli to Kesan : 80kms

Elevation gain/loss: +498/-367m

Roads: Mainly EO2 in Greece & D110 highway in Turkey

Flat as far as Taianoupolis then 'lumpy' for remainder. The route crosses the border into Turkey where it follows mainly major highways for long straight sections with fast moving traffic and little relief.

Follow the EO2 along the water front in Alexandroupoli and onwards past Maestros, Apalos (8kms) and the International Airport. At 16kms the road passes over the dried up (in April) river Evros next to which stand the ruins of Traianoupolis, dating back to Roman times. A more modern resort complex now provides the spar waters for residents (closed in April). Onwards, roads are quiet and fuel stations provide refreshment opportunities but there is not much else easily accessible so always have some reserves packed away.

The road skirts past Feres (30kms) and just before Ardani (36kms) continue right on the EO2 as far as the border. Fences line the road near the Greek border control point but very close to the border the fence stops to allow access onto the A2 main highway.

Note: 'safety first' when joining A2 although traffic is slow or stationery at this close proximity to border control.

Cross the River Maritsa and wide flood plain before arriving at the Turkey border control. Armed guards and police are much in evidence.

Note: a visa is required to enter Turkey and it is most advisable to obtain this in advance. A visa office is located at the border which might be a last resort solution but I am not sure you could rely on it being open at all times.

The final tiring 30kms to Kesan is on long straight undulating sections of the D110 highway. Turn off right and climb into the town centre of Kesan (80kms)

Noticeably poor districts on eastern outskirts of town and heaps of rubbish common.

11: Turkey – Kesan to Tekirdag : 85kms

Elevation gain/loss: +1045/-1140m

Roads: Mainly D110 highway

Long tiring stretches on the undulating D110 highway with few opportunities for refreshments without coming off the D110. The accumulative climb total is significant.

Retrace one's steps from Kesan and return directly to the D110 or travel eastwards on Pirnalik Street, through some poor outskirts of Kesan, to Yenimuhacir (6kms) and onwards to rejoin the D110.

Note: leaving Kesan through the outskirts the road becomes a track and continues for approximately 10kms before rejoining the D110.

Halic (16kms) is an opportunity for refreshments and Malkara (25kms) is a substantial town within realtively easy reach of the highway. Onwards the road passes Cavuskoy (31kms), Ahievren (41kms), Yenice (47kms), Inecik Bucagi (60kms) and approaching the coastline descends rapidly.

Entering the outskirts of Tekirdag leave the D110 which bypasses the town and continue on Ataturk Boulevard into the centre of Tekirdag (85kms)

Situated on the Sea of Marmara this town has an atmospheric waterfront by night in particular.

12: Turkey – Tekirdag to Silivri : 77kms

Elevation gain/loss: +586/-647m

Roads: Mainly D110 highway

Stiff ascents and descents throughout the journey mainly following the busy D110 highway with 4km detour to visit Marmaraerglisi.

It is possible to use side roads and tracks to find a way out of Tekirdag and join the D110 on the very outskirts of Tekirdag or simply follow the main road out of the town to join the D110 within approx 8kms. Stiff climbs out of Tekirdag particularly if taking side roads above the main highway out of town.

The D110 follows the coast and countless holiday resorts line the way towards Marmaraerglisi (44kms)

Turn into into Marmaraerglisi, originally Greek Perinthus and then Roman Heraclea for panoramic views from the hillside cape extending into the Sea of Marmara.

Rejoin the D110 and continue past Suntankoy (32kms) and Gumusyake (58kms) after which the road becomes the D100 from which turn right towards Silivri. At this point he road passes within easy sight of the very long 33 arch Ottoman bridge built on the order of Suleiman the Magnificent. Immediately beyond the bridge enter Silivri (77kms)

Holiday resort town for people of Istanbul on the Sea of Marmara. Hotel Selis is good value.

13: Turkey – Silivri to Istanbul : 76kms

Elevation gain/loss: +761/-719m

Roads: Mainly D110 highway

Climbs at start, particularly stiff climbs mid way and finally hilly into Istanbul. Good detailed maps or a GPS routing device are essential to finding a route off the main highways into Istanbul.

Note: the main highways into Istanbul are extremely busy and to avoid these as much as possible is highly recommended.

From Silivri there is an option to return directly to the D100 and continue towards and into Istanbul on a highway that becomes increasingly busy and potentially risky for a cyclist. More safely take the more diverse route using secondary roads to leave Silivri, steeply uphill, and then continue to navigate past Selimpasa (12kms), Kumburgaz (20kms) and alongside the D100 as it passes over Lake Buyukcekmece into Buyukcekmece (33kms).

From Buyukcekmece navigate on increasingly busy secondary roads involving very steep climbs over and down into Avcilar (49kms). Then alongside the D100 as it skirts past Lake Kucukcekmece after which follow the coastal road south of Ataturk Airport.

Past the airport at approx 62kms it is necessary to join the main highway for 1km before leaving it in the direction of Bakirkoy (65kms). Continue to navigate off the D100 and at approximately 70kms meet the historic town walls which stretch down to almost meet the coastline.

At this point the promenade permits cycling through landscaped parks running alongside the waterfront towards the south of the historic centre of Istanbul. Alternatively enter through a gateway within the historic walls on the Yedikule Caddesi and navigate through hectic side streets into the centre. Be prepared for very slow progress in these narrow side streets with street trading in all directions.

Arrive in Sultanahmet, Istanbul (76kms).