Finger of Hercules

"I'll show you a place high on a desert plain" — U2

Finger of Hercules, Mojave Desert, USA

Jo and I took a day off from playing on the quartz monzonite in Joshua Tree to find this mythical rock pinnacle, located in the California high desert north-east of Lucerne Valley. We had been inspired by a striking photograph in a route compendium in a gear shop in Ventura. There were some vague instructions how to get there, which got copied onto a scrap of paper (this was 2006 and GPS was not really in common use yet). One had to turn off State Route 247 onto something called Camp Rock Road and at some point, it was claimed, the pinnacle would come into view as a monolith against the skyline. In fact with binoculars it can be seen from SR 247 (if you know where to look!). Not long after we had spotted it, we lost sight of it again and had to leave the hire car in a turn out next to a line of pylons to avoid getting bogged in sand. The pylons led past a private subdivision until the pinnacle suddenly appeared on the skyline again, now much nearer. Then it was just a matter of picking our way across the washes and dry creeks to the base. Jo belayed and I climbed it by the standard 5.7 route up the back, which had a spartan collection of odd-looking bolts. There was a lower-off at the top, also quite a lot of evidence that it was a favourite perch for raptors! On the way back we came across the shell of a desert tortoise. We got back to the car just as dusk was falling. This was January and the light fades rapidly at these relatively southern latitudes. We headed back to the Crossroads Cafe in Joshua Tree – it was open mic night and, although we didn't know it, we were in for a treat.

Directions

From State Route 247 east of Lucerne Valley, head north on Camp Rock Road (fine for 2WD) until it passes under the power lines, then head right on the power line track. This is passable by 2WD for some way but eventually degenerates. Continue on foot and eventually the Finger will be visible on the skyline to the north at N 34° 35' 5.0" / W 116° 48' 46.4". More route descriptions are at the Mountain Project website.

The Finger of Hercules – a 70' granite monolith in California's Mojave desert.

Runout lead climbing on Stichter Quits – a bold 5.7+ slab route with perfect friction on Echo Rock, Joshua Tree.

Adapted from CPC Record 114, 16 (April 2014).