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Chasing Summer p.024
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Jan 4th - Pilalo to Quito
Interactive map: http://www.gpsxchange.com/phpBB2/download2.php?id=1634
The night was good but I’m not thrilled to put on my still wet bike gear .
I get a breakfast first and snap a couple of pictures of this pueblo that looks much better at daylight.
The reason I also wanted to stop here last night is that Remy told me that the road from here to the Laguna Quilotoa was beautiful and he was right! Pilalo from above...
It’s funny, I can almost say just by looking at the elevation if the people I’ll see next are Indios or not. Above 2,500-3,000 meters it’s only Indios and I see very little of them below that elevation.
I wonder why the indigenous are so often relegated to such high elevation where the climate is rude and the soil hard to cultivate. Maybe that’s where they hide when the Spaniards came and they kept the habit? Or that’s the best way for them to preserve their traditions in a modern environment? Or they just can’t afford to buy land elsewhere?
In any case their life is pretty harsh and it’s good to see several European Community projects for reforestation and schools in the area.
Getting closer to the turn North, towards the Laguna Quilotoa...
The volcanic-crater lake of Quilotoa is quite special because on one side is more a plateau than a typical crest surrounding a crater. So you’re walking on flat ground, not seeing anything special you make just one step further and it’s
!!!
The lake sits at 400 m below and there is trail going down the steep cliff. I passed. I think that it's the snow covered Cotopaxi that you can see on the background...
A better view at it
To reach the village of Chugchilan is more than 20 km of rutted dirt road. In one of the big washouts I see what seems like the whole village (men and women) working on repairing it without engines, only agricultural tools.
Lots of little farms: The big thing here is sheep and black pigs with a couple of lamas here or there.
Then it’s again more than 20 km to reach Sigchos and the road becomes even bumpier! But the scenery remains spectacular...
Then I head east towards the Panamerica. There is a bit of everything on that road: sand, mud, rocks... every section is different! In the last part I even get a 'stone road' again. They're not bad, but are quite slippery when wet and the pot holes are really nasty when nit maintained.
When I reach Lasso there I realize that it took me 4 hours of riding since Pilalo even though on the map it seems very close.
Back to Quito at Sean’s place. On the evening, to thank them for their hospitality I invite Sean and his wife Maria in one of the many very good restaurants of Quito. That’s where Sean, thinking of this trip destination, orders a wine from Patagonia. I had no idea there was wine so far south! We were surprised to see such a fancy (this is a metal medallion) and heavy bottle for a mid-$20 price but hey, what do we know?
It turns out that they served us a similarly named wine but costing $100
. It was indeed excellent but there was no way we would pay that much and the restaurant admitted it was their mistake so everything was fine.
Jan 5th - Quito to Loja
Interactive map: http://www.gpsxchange.com/phpBB2/download2.php?id=1635
I install the GPS that I received last night from Sasha and I’m on my way. A last look at Quito…
I need to cover ground today so I will be on the Panamerican the whole way. It starts as a 2 x 2, fast and smooth but that doesn’t last long. Soon the road narrows and climbs over 3,500m. The sky is grey and threatening but it doesn’t rain yet. In those conditions nothing grabs my eye and there is no picture for today besides this one:
Past Riobamba the road starts to deteriorate: potholes and many road works. In a typical fashion the previous road surface (asphalt) is removed for dozen of kms but there is almost no activity to put anything back on. To add to the bad conditions I am by now riding in the clouds. It’s a nice poetic image but the reality is wet with NO visibility! This added to the wet dirt makes that section a slow one.
The changes of elevation are incredible: often times climbing (or descending) 1,500m of elevation in very few kilometers.
I notice that the Indios (men and women) here are wearing different colors: mostly black with just a touch of bright color (red usually).
The 100 kms before Cuenca are paved and very twisty so I finally enjoy the riding, trying to keep a fast pace while avoiding the numerous pot holes. Arriving at Cuenca a light rain is on and it will be on and off until arriving at Loja after 9 hours of riding non-stop.
Not much to say about Loja besides that I’m happy to finally stop and have a dry place to stay.
Jan 6th - Loja to San Ignacio (Peru)
Interactive map: http://www.gpsxchange.com/phpBB2/download2.php?id=1636
From Loja there are 2 options to get to Peru: one goes SW via a twisty paved road and the other goes SE via road mostly dirt. Rick described me the SE road from Vilcabamba to Zamba as is: ‘The road tracks up and over a very tropical ridge line and then drops into the most fantastic valley I've ever seen in my life.’ No way that I could miss that even though he also mentioned that the it could be very muddy.
It's raining again but the road is nice and paved until Vilcabamba. It's a small town but 'famous' for gringos who come live here for longevity. The reputation of the place is that it produces many 100-120 years old people and so something must be good about it. I see indeed many old people there but surprisingly no gringos. Maybe it is too early on the morning.
Based on Rick's description and the fact that it's raining I was expecting muddy conditions on the dirt road after Vilcabamba. And muddy it is! I check front tire often sure that it’s going flat or something. Nope it’s just the lack of traction offered by my worn out Scorpion on the front.
The road goes through the Podacarpus NP, which has many animals and vegetation types. What I can see is a lush and deep green rain forest.
The weather finally gets better and I can snap a few pictures
I don't know if I see the valley described by Rick but I see several beautiful ones and also miss a few lost in the fog. Despite the weather and hard riding conditions the place is really splendid.
The richness and variety of the different shades of green is endless
I often have to remind myself to relax my shoulders, too tense by riding in the mud and potholes.
A typical bridge over a furious and muddy river
I arrive at Zumba around lunch time, take a lunch break while the rain pours heavily and then continues towards the border. The border is only 20-25 km from Zumba but the road is even worse than before. It's going through nice tropical scenery though...
Finally I see the river that marks the border as well as the little settlement around the bridge.
Here I am on the Ecuadorian side of the border. The immigration is quick and easy. The guy has a bike too and we discuss a bit about mine. Then it's the customs. You can actually see the customs guy in front of a steel curtain. I don't even enter in the building and after a minute it tells me that it's all set, nothing to pay and he opens the 'fence' closing the bridge on his side.
Now let's cross the bridge to the Peruvian side. It's a relatively new bridge built to mark the reconciliation between Ecuador and Peru after the last war between the 2 countries. As you can see by the grass growing on it it's not used very often.
The rain starts again and there is no one around to open the gate
. I leave my bike there and go to what seems to be the official buildings. I knock on doors, look through windows but it's empty. I finally find a policeman who tells me that the customs guy is having lunch while I could find the immigration in a house close by.
Okay. I walk to the house he indicated trying not to get my papers soaked. It's an office in fact but closed and empty. I yell and knock on the door until a sleepy head emerges from a window of the 2nd floor. Oops, I guess I interrupted his nap! Well, he was ready quickly and took care of my passport efficiently. When I returned to the customs the guy was there. I mean his body was there but for his brain, not too sure. Nice guy BTW, just really not smart. Not that I would send the brightest guy in this remote border crossing if I was the head of the Peruvian customs
. Besides that it's painfully slow, everything works fine and there is no fees to pay.
I'm excited about discovering a new country! So far the roads are not exactly better...
But the scenery is just as impressive
This might not be representative of Peru since it’s such a remote place but it seems poorer than Ecuador, at least based on the habitat: most houses are on adobe bricks. Maybe because it’s Sunday but everyone seems to be on some rudimentary benches in front of their houses. Discussing and observing what's going on... including me!
The Peruvians seem much more demonstrative: the kids yell when they see the bike, and most adults answer my salute in the streets. They’re also more curious and the regrouping around my bike start again.
The moto-taxis that you see above are based on a Honda 125 CG, the best workhorse I know. It seems that the riders have adopted the worst riding/driving of both taxis and motorcycles! They must be used of rain and mud because it didn't stop the show!
I am know only a few km from San Ignacio, the rain has stopped and the road is better. Cool, because I'm really looking forward to a good rest. Looks like my bike wants one too
I was actually coming from the other way, at a moderate pace and very suddenly, weeezzz... the bike executes an impressive U-turn without me able to do anything. First fall in South America, just a couple of hours after entering Peru... Is this a sign of more to come there?
The fall was very smooth and there is no damage on me or the bike except that stupid bag lock. The real issue is how to get back on the road facing the right way. That clay is incredibly slippery and after several attempts I just ride on the ditch past this patch of clay to get back on the road. Soon after, on a downhill I notice the same reddish color on the ground and see the passengers of the incoming moto taxis pushing them because it's indeed very slippery and they have only one driven wheel. I'm very careful, don't use brakes, put both feet close to the ground, very safe... until Boum! No jealous, this time it's on the other side. No damages again but I have now 2 broken locks and lot of clay on my clothes.
I arrive finally at San Ignacio where I stop at the first hotel I see.
It's pretty much a sh#t hole and with the hardest bed I’ve ever tried but I can get my bike inside and that will do.
For such a remote place San Ignacio is pretty nice and the streets are buzzing. At the restaurant I pick the drink included with the meal is surprisingly tea or other herbal teas. And indeed all the other tables are drinking hot beverages. Let’s have a tea then.
I hesitate on which road to take tomorrow after Jaen: it’s either West towards the coast: Chiclayo and possibly the best museum in Peru at Lambayeque. The other option is going East towards the mountains, to visit the Kuelap ruins and the beautiful surroundings. Rick and Eduardo took the later and said that it was one of the highlights of their trip. I trust their judgment 100% but the road and weather were really bad according to them. Tonight I’m tired of the rain and potholes so I’m not sure what to do. We’ll see on the morning.
Jan 7th - San Ignacio - Chachapoyas
Interactive map: http://www.gpsxchange.com/phpBB2/download2.php?id=1637
The road from San Ignacio to Jaen is in very bad shape for about 35 miles. Based on some rare patches of asphalt it used to be paved but quite a long time ago. Now it’s a dirt road covered by potholes.
The road follows the muddy and impetuous Rio Maranon towards Jaen.
Hey, if they can do it I should be able too
The roads goes down an elevation and gets better. Even the river quiets down a bit and the pirogues seem a much more comfortable way to travel around here.
The first rice plantation I see in Peru... but not the last!
Jaen is a lively city with an army of moto-taxis.
It’s quite an experience to be riding surrounded by them.
It’s much warmer now and the rain has stopped too. I feel that I’ve recharged my ‘sun battery’ enough to affront the rain and I head east, towards Kuelap.
For whatever reason the people here want to alert me on the fact that I have my lights on. As a US model, the lights of my bike cannot be turned off. Many drivers flash their light, even pedestrians make the sign with their hand. To save everyone the trouble I’m tempted to disconnect the bulb!
Another thing I notice about the Peruvians is that many have a difficult accent for me to understand. And they similarly have a harder time to understand me. Other issue not related: I’m now back in expensive gas land with the gallon over $5.
A few pictures on my way east
It’s in Pedro Ruiz Gallo that I’m supposed to turn south towards Chachapoyas. It's the road that Rick had warned me about its closure and when I ask for confirmation people confirm that the road is indeed closed every weekday between 6 AM and 7 PM. Damn! And it’s not the nicest village either. Fortunately they have one internet place and I’m able to catch up a bit on this RR.
I get ready and leave around 6:30 PM. Surprise, the road is a beautiful paved one and I can enjoy the very last moment of daylight. About 15 kms later I see the long line of vehicles waiting for the road to open. I’d rather do that than passing them at night. As a bike I can go directly to the front (much better than passing them at night!) and the pole lady even let me go before 7 PM. Alone on this road (now turned to dirt) it’s quite fun but it doesn’t last long until I meet the Caterpillars, still working on the road. The plan is to enlarge and paved this road and they’ve been working on it for 4 months and still have 1 year to go. It’s totally dark by now and it’s impressive to see the big machines do their work under the projectors’ lights.
At 7:15 PM I can finally go, passing just a few inches from the huge vehicles. Again I enjoy a road just for myself although some sections are either rough or very sandy. It’s really too bad that it’s dark because the scenery seems incredible with the road literally carved in the rocks. It looks like a ½ or sometimes ¾ tunnel, with the open side on the river side. The canyon itself seems very narrow and with high cliffs.
Unfortunately I end up passing the first oncoming cars but the worst is still to come
. When I start seeing big buses and trucks the trouble starts with those guys taking up the whole road. Granted they don’t want to hit the rocky wall on their right side but they for sure don’t leave me much space and don’t slow down either
.
At some point a big bus comes and there is no space for both of us. I stop as close as possible to the edge of the road and I can see a glimpse of the tumultuous river just on my right side. The bus can’t pass. I try to backtrack a little but that doesn’t help. Finally the driver shows me to go on the left side of the road instead. I’ve not even stopped on the left ‘shoulder’ that he starts moving but being on instable ground I'm loosing my balance with the bike leaning on the right
. With the side of the bus so close (he couldn’t see anything) I use all my muscles to keep the bike upright and finally get my balance back when the bus is gone
.
Soon after I arrive at a ‘gate’: a section on the road where the rocks form a mini tunnel, so low and narrow that the buses almost touch on all sides. Again, very impressive at night.
That road was tough but there was something ‘magic’ to it, with the rocks and the river so close, the total darkness opening partially under my lights. A lot of emotions for sure! Finally the road becomes paved and twisty until Chachapoyas. I find a nice hotel with wood floors and balconies with a room right on the main plaza! Because I had little expectations about the town I’m agreeably surprised by how nice it is with narrow streets and all. Like yesterday, in all places they’re watching the women volley pre-Olympic competition. Volley seems to be a very big thing in Peru. I hook up with some locals who give good indications about the roads, travel times and the things to visit.
Jan 8th - Chachapoyas - Kuelap - Leymebamba
I’m up and ready early but take my time going around the city even if there is a light rain. View from my room...
.. and of this nice hotel
The center of town is all white and beautiful...
... but as often, just a few blocks further it's all reddish and not that beautiful
Those last days, I like to buy for breakfast bred and fresh cheese and I visit the market for that.
The bred/pastries are different in Peru (mostly sweet) and I miss the delicious ones from Ecuador
.
On my way to Kuelap I wonder what’s awaiting me. I’ve read that its grandeur is only matched by Machu Picchu; that there are more stones on its walls than on the Egyptians pyramids etc. Stats don’t create emotions for me and the only pictures I’ve seen were from a huge wall. Impressive but…
I leave Chachapoyas via the only paved section of road of the area and join the dirt road going south along the Rio Utcubamba. Based on this trip I would name Peru the Champion of potholes! Such a density of them is quite incredible. Even the small ones are nasty!
Nice spot for a break right?
Humm, what could I do? Hey why not patch my front tube again?
Just before this spot I hit a pothole (filled with muddy water, just like the others) with a sharp stone in it. The good news is that the hole is easy to find…
… the bad news is that this Maxxis ‘Super Heavy Duty’ tube seems to be a piece of crap! I rode relatively slowly on the pothole and the shock was minor. Oh well, the sun had just came out and so it was nice to work on the bike. This time I don’t have a spare so it will be a big patch. I also use the opportunity to replace the tire by the TKC 80 I’ve been carrying for so long (are you all happy now?
), change the front brake pads, clean and grease the axle etc.
On my way again. Just in time since a light rain starts. At some point the road starts to climb on the side of the mountain and it’s really impressive.
The road is narrow and with land slides on one side and washouts on the cliff side it’s even narrower. I think that it was the only section with a 'rail guard'...
It still rains so it’s of course muddy and I slow down thinking that not much would stop the bike or me from a loooong descent in case of sliding
. In those conditions I really appreciate the huge improvement of the TKC80.
There is a couple of villages on the way
I finally arrive to the site at close to 3,000 m of elevation. Just getting up there seems like it would be a challenge for invaders! There is not much going on: just a few collective taxis waiting for their customers to come back. They point me to a muddy and steep trail taking me after 2.5 km to the site itself. I appreciate the waterproofness of my Daytona boots but not their lack of grip for hiking in such slippery conditions!
The end of the trail is much nicer though
I finally see the famous wall. WOW
.
But first an introduction to Kuelap: "Kuelap achieved its greatest splendor between the 10th and 15th Century AD before to be conquered by the Incas. The Chachapoyas who built the fortress were part of an alliance playing an important intermediary role between the amazonic tribes and coastal and highland Andean societies. The fortress is located in a strategically important area where the large basins of the Maranon and the Utcubamba rivers come together."
The fortress measures 600 x 110 m and the walls are 20 meters at the highest point. I walk and walk some more without seeing how to get in. Finally I see a narrow opening…
The ‘doors’ have been strategically designed with a gradual reduction of the narrow alleys and at the end there is only room for one person. You can see here from above the 'alley'
And here the end of the 'alley' when it becomes just large enough for a person
The Chachapuyas or ‘People of the Clouds’ were thought to be great warriors, powerful shamans and prolific builders. They were mostly using circular construction and the buildings were covered by thatch roofs, which were tall and steep to facilitate the run-off of the region’s frequent rains.
They were also using intricate masonry friezes which use zizags and rhomboids. There are inside the fortress 420 circular edifices (or ruins) and Kuelap’s estimated population was between 3000 and 4000.
The fortress was constructed by gradually raising a big wall of clay and rock to create a platform on which habitations and ceremonial buildings could be built. The big blocks used were trapezoidal in shape and had squared faces.
Its economy was based on agriculture, exchange and hunting. The inhabitants used the terraces around the fortress for growing corn, beans and many roots and tubers. At the same time they also controlled the river basins in the region where they obtained yucca, camote, peanuts, cotton, tobacco and native fruits. They got proteins from the meat of lama, deer, cuy, maja and other large mammals.
Speaking of lamas...
There was a good group wandering silently, definitely adding a lot to the charm of the place
The Chachapoyas were pretty advanced and for medecine for example they used several medicinal plants which are still utilized by native populations today. They also practiced surgery like trepanations. Coca leaves were used as anesthetics and very fine metal tools were used to make the incisions.
There were only very few visitors and I was alone in many parts of the visit. At one point the rain stopped and I enjoyed the sun and the view while having lunch. It was magic.
Visiting the inside of the houses it seems that they were well equipped...
And this seems like 'running water'
The family leaving here must have been rich because the first building you see is only the kitchen and the second building is the house with walls that were 4.5m high.
The rain forest, right around (or in) the buildings as well as the flocks of bright green parrots made the visit even more special.
Inside the fortress you have yet another wall that protects the Pueblo Alto (town at the top).
The entrance is again using the 'narrowing alley' system
From the top (and on the opposite side of the entrance) the view was extraordinary
You can maybe see this minuscule farm just down the fortress in a surreal environment
I spent more than 3 hours visiting everything and taking the time to feel what the life could have been here centuries ago. Last signs before the exit
Leaving the fortress under the rain I realize that even that doesn’t bother me now that I got the chance to see such a wonderful place… A big THANKS to Rick for pushing me to see it, I might have missed it
I then went down the same awesome road...
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