Before coming to Seoul, I often wondered what kind of city it would be.

My first impression of Seoul came from RM’s song “seoul”:

“I love you, Seoul. I hate you, Seoul.”

In the song, Namjoon describes Seoul as a city of contradictions—a place that “pretends to be warm in its cold parks.” Love and hate begin to resemble each other, until he finally confesses: I love you, Seoul.

After visiting the city myself, I began to understand what he meant.

---

On one hand, this was undoubtedly a BTS pilgrimage for me.

I went to Hakdong Park, where I became one among many visitors listening to their songs. I also visited Big Hit’s old building, where I met countless other ARMYs. I carefully read the messages they had left behind, hoping to gather from those words the full weight of their love.

I also traveled to Busan for BTS’s 13th-anniversary concert. When the lights dimmed and the music began, the entire crowd erupted. Surrounded by the cheers of thousands of ARMYs, I felt as though every voice had merged into one.

---

I visited Namsan as well.

During trainee days, people would often climb the mountain and hang a lock at the summit. That day, I finally arrived at the famous Namsan, a place that had always held special meaning for me.

The climb was tiring but enjoyable. At the foot of the mountain, people walked, exercised, and went about their daily routines. They were the people who actually lived in Seoul.

I did not encounter many people along the trail. In such a crowded city, it felt like a rare pocket of quiet.

But the moment I reached the summit, the scene changed completely. The area was so commercialized that it was almost overwhelming: shops everywhere, tourists buying souvenirs, and crowds who had taken the bus directly to the top simply to take photos and check the location off their lists.

There was something ironic about it. The summit was packed with people, but how many of them had truly climbed the mountain?

---

Tips for Traveling Solo in Seoul

Transportation

• Download Naver Map before your trip. It is incredibly useful in Seoul!

• Taxis can be expensive, so I recommend using public transportation whenever possible.

• When taking the subway, pay attention to the route information: signs often show the previous and next stations rather than the two terminal stations of the line.

• Transfers at some major stations can be complicated. Don’t be afraid to ask someone for directions! Most Koreans are very friendly, and gestures combined with basic English are usually enough to communicate.

• In my experience, buses were sometimes more convenient than the subway.

• If you are staying for several days, the Climate Card can save you a lot of money.

Accommodation

• Be careful: many hotels in Seoul require guests to be at least 19 years old to check in alone, not 18. Contact the hotel beforehand to confirm its policy.

Shopping

• If you want to receive a tax refund, always carry your passport with you. Some luxury-brand stores in shopping malls require you to present your passport at checkout to process the refund immediately.

Other 

• Seoul is a city of hills. If you plan to explore on foot, be prepared to encounter slopes everywhere.

• Check the functions of your SIM card in advance. The one I purchased would not allow me to log in to a bike-sharing app.

• Myeongdong is worth visiting if you enjoy shopping because it has an enormous number of stores. However, the night market felt very tourist-oriented to me, so I would lower my expectations for the street food.

• Climbing Namsan was fun, and the trail was scenic and pleasant to walk. However, the summit felt somewhat overcommercialized.

• I loved spending time beside the Han River. There are public seats along the river, and watching the sunset alone in the evening felt incredibly peaceful and healing.