Nor are fair outlooks wanting. From many points of view on the MustaphaHill the prospect is among the most charming in the western Mediterranean.Sir Lambert Playfair, indeed, the learned and genial BritishConsul-General whose admirable works on Algeria have been the delight ofevery tourist who visits that beautiful country, is fond of saying thatthe two finest views on the Inland Sea are, first, that from the GreekTheater at Taormina, and, second, that from his own dining-room windows onthe hill-top at El Biar. This is very strong praise, and it comes from theauthor of a handbook to the Mediterranean who has seen that sea in allaspects, from Gibralta to Syria; yet I fancy it is too high, especiallywhen one considers that among the excluded scenes must be put Naples,Sorrento, Amalfi, Palermo, and the long stretch of Venice as seen from theLido. I would myself even rank the outlook on Monaco from the slopes ofCap Martin, and the glorious panorama of Nice and the Maritime Alps fromthe Lighthouse Hill at[Pg 40] Antibes, above any picture to be seen from thenorthern spurs of the Sahel. Let us be just to Pirus before we aregenerous to El Biar. But all this is, after all, a mere matter of taste,and no lover of the picturesque would at any rate deny that the Bay ofAlgiers, as viewed from the Mustapha Hill, ranks deservedly high among themost beautiful sights of the Mediterranean. And when the sunset lights upin rosy tints the white mole and the marble town, the resulting scene issometimes one of almost fairy-like splendor.

There are, however, no such grim glaciers, no such vast snow-fields as inSwitzerland, for here in the south the sun has more power, and even atthese heights only the peaks and pinnacles wear white crests during thesummer heats. This more genial temperature encourages a richer vegetation,and makes the ascents less perilous and toilsome. A member of the AlpineClub would laugh to scorn the conquest of Muley Hacen, or of the Picachode la Veleta, the two crowning peaks of the range. The enterprise iswithin the compass of the most moderate effort. The ascent of thelast-named and lowest, although the most picturesque, is the easiest made,because the road from Granada is most direct. In both cases the greatestpart of the climbing is performed on horseback; but this must be done aday in advance, and thus a night has to be passed near the summit underthe stars. The temperature is low, and the travellers can only defendthemselves against the cold by the wraps they have brought and the fuelthey can find (mere knotted roots) around their windy shelter. The ascentto where the snow still lingers, in very dirty and disreputable patches,is usually commenced about two in the[Pg 59] morning, so that the top may bereached before dawn. If the sky is clear, sunrise from the Picacho is ascene that can never be forgotten, fairly competing with, if notoutrivaling, the most famous views of the kind. The Mediterranean liesbelow like a lake, bounded to the north and west by the Spanish coast, tothe south by the African, the faintest outlines of which may often be seenin the far, dim distance. Eastward the horizon is made glorious by thebright pageants of the rising sun, whose majestic approach is heralded byrainbow-hued clouds. All around are the strangely jagged and contortedpeaks, rolling down in diminishing grandeur to the lower peaks that seemto rise from the sea.

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Close to the Quai, and at the entrance of the Cannebire, stands thecentral point of business in new Marseilles, the Bourse, where the filialpiety of the modern Phocans has done ample homage to the sacred memory oftheir ancient Hellenic ancestors. For in the place of honor on the faadeof that great palace of commerce the chief post has been given, as wasdue, to the statues of the old Massaliote admirals, Pytheas andEuthymenes. It is this constant consciousness of historical continuitythat adds so much interest to Mediterranean towns. One feels as one standsbefore those two stone figures in the crowded Cannebire, that after allhumanity is one,[Pg 101] and that the Phocans themselves are still, in thepersons of their sons, among us.

Now, the Riviera is just the point where the greatest central mountainsystem of all Europe topples over most directly into the warmest sea. Andits best-known resorts, Nice, Monte Carlo, Mentone, occupy the preciseplace where the very axis of the ridge abuts at last on the shallow andbasking Mediterranean. They are therefore as favorably situated withregard to the mountain wall as Pallanza or Riva, with the furtheradvantage of a more southern position and of a neighboring extent of sunnysea to warm them. The Maritime Alps cut off all northerly winds; while thehot air of the desert, tempered by passing over a wide expanse ofMediterranean waves, arrives on the coast as a delicious breeze, no longerdry and relaxing, but at once genial and refreshing. Add to these variedadvantages the dryness of climate due to an essentially continentalposition (for the Mediterranean is after all a mere inland salt lake), andit is no wonder we all swear by the Riviera as the fairest and mostpleasant of winter resorts. My own opinion remains always unshaken, thatAntibes, for climate, may fairly claim to rank as the best spot in Europeor round the shores of the Mediterranean. be457b7860

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