Hello,

Would the nomad be suitable for producing brass watch dials? They will be 0.4mm brass cut into 30mm discs. I have attached an example of the detail I am looking for, which was made using a 40w fibre laser.

Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks,

John

And even if it is not fully relevant to your question, check out this wonderful thread on watchmaking on a Shapeoko by master @RichCournoyer. You should be able to draw some conclusions on making parts for watches on the Nomad, which is more precise than the Shapeoko.

Watch Dials Free Download

DOWNLOAD 🔥 https://blltly.com/2yGAMX 🔥

Recently, I brought my ugly Zenith Victorious to the watchmaker James Im uses in Greenwich, CT. To my surprise, he took the watch back to his bench, and in 7 minutes had totally cleaned the dial. I was floored. He explained that he had formulated his own dial cleaning paste. You can check out Danielle Watchmaker here.

Typically due to water having entered the case (which is bad news for the movement), mold and water can leave stains on top of the varnish. In some cases, a good watchmaker can get the residue off without hurting the varnish. But there is always the risk of damaging or even pulling up the varnish, so work closely with your watchmaker to determine the risk level and then make your decision about whether to proceed.

Collecting watches is so different for everyone, but for some the restoration of a dial can be the difference between keeping it in a drawer and wearing it proudly. The satisfaction of taking something a little messed up and making it better can be addictive.

The variety of aftermarket hands and dials available to the amateur watch customizer is growing steadily. The selection depends on the movement being used, with one of the largest collections being offered for Seiko movements, by sellers such as Dagaz Watches and Yobokies. When working with other movements, the selection is more limited or sometimes non-existent.

The solution for each of these projects was a home-made dial. The Adventurer and Evolution dials were made using high-quality photo paper, and the techniques used are described in the remainder of this article. The Oceanographer dial used a different technique (water slide decal over luminous film), and will be described in a separate article later.

All the dials were made using the original dial as a base. The dial was removed from the watch, the existing indices and artwork stripped off, new artwork and indices applied, and the dial reinstalled. This requires opening the case back, removing the crown, removing the movement and dial as a unit, removing the hands, and finally separating the dial from the movement.

The Orient and Alpha dials both had applied indices and numerals, and the Orient also had a date window frame. These were easy to remove by pushing them out from the back using a pin. I saved these parts for possible use in future projects.

None of my designs called for a date window, but the Orient dial had one, which needed to be filled in. I applied a piece of tape over the window on the back of the dial, and then filled the window with JB Weld (steel-filled epoxy) from the front, using just enough to protrude slightly above the front surface. This would be sanded level later.

I sanded using wooden blocks faced with sandpaper. I started with medium grit paper to remove most of the base coat quickly. Once I was nearly down to bare metal, I switched to progressively finer grits to produce a reasonably smooth finish. The Orient dial had a slight texture embossed in the brass, so I stopped when the remaining lacquer was flush with the brass.

There are many ways to create new dial artwork. Commercial dials are usually made by pad printing markings on top of a lacquer or enamel background, a process requiring specialized skills, equipment, and inks.

To print a high resolution dial, one needs to start with high resolution artwork. This can be prepared interactively using tools like Adobe Illustrator or Photoshop (the latter is not ideal, as it provides no facilities to easily align things precisely).

Alternatively, if you have the skills and appropriate programming tools, you can write a program to generate the artwork. Doing it this way makes it easy to generate evenly spaced and sized indices and perfectly centered text. It also allows experimenting with dozens of dial variations by adjusting a few parameters and running the program again. I created my dial artwork using a program written in the Maple language. After determining the required dimensions by measuring the existing dial and case, I wrote a program to generate a 1200dpi TIFF image (reproduced above at a lower resolution).

Many inkjet printers will print purely black and white artwork using only black ink, but will switch to colour ink if there is any colour in the artwork. With the aforementioned HP printer, I found that the black ink did not produce a very satisfactory result at all. To get around this, I regenerated the dial artwork so that the black areas were actually a very dark blue (about 8% brightness). Printing this resulted in a much sharper image that was indistinguishable from black.

When printing large images such as photos from your vacation, the printer will usually print a few centimetres of the image, and then pause as it assembles the next stripe in memory. During this pause, the previous stripe has a chance to dry, and when the next stripe is eventually printed, a very slight ridge results. This is imperceptible on photographs, but very visible on a solid colour watch dial.

The Adventurer and Evolution dials were printed on HP Premium Plus Glossy Photo Paper. This paper allows very high resolution printing without the individual ink dots spreading and producing fuzzy edges.

After waiting a few hours for the ink to dry, I applied several coats of Krylon Crystal Clear gloss acrylic lacquer, waiting a few minutes between coats. This serves to protect the artwork from damage while working with the dial.

If the completed dial is to have a gloss finish, it should be polished before cutting it out. Even the most carefully applied gloss lacquer will have a bit of texture that can be polished away. I used a 12000 grit MicroMesh pad, followed up with polyWatch acrylic watch crystal polishing compound, to produce a near mirror-like finish.

When cutting the dial with a circle cutter, use a new sharp blade, place the pivot of the cutter in the centre of the artwork, and carefully adjust the radius so the blade falls exactly on the edge of the artwork. Then, while holding the cutter stationary and applying very light pressure, rotate the artwork as many times as necessary to cut cleanly all the way through.

The easiest way to cut the centre hole is to use a punch. Most watches will require a 2mm hole, whereas a movement with a fourth hand (alarm or second time zone) might require a 2.5mm hole. Both are readily available as leather punches, although these are remarkably dull and will not cut paper cleanly as-is. They are easily sharpened by chucking the punch into a drill and then using first a file, and then fine emery cloth, to reduce the outside diameter near the tip until the edge is sharp.

I decided to try to salvage the dial by carefully sanding the finish, first with 2000 grit sandpaper, followed by 12000 grit MicroMesh. As I started to sand through the lacquer at the edges of the dial, I sprayed on new coats of lacquer, let them dry, and sanded some more.

Needless to say, I learned from this mistake. When I made the dial for the Evolution, I made sure that the plastic block was completely flat. Instead of decal backing paper, I used a piece of plastic vapour barrier material, this being both thicker and softer. No bumps appeared in the Evolution dial.

After each coat of paint, I would sand off the high spots (that paint, although very luminous, is somewhat lumpy) before appying the next coat. I used a sanding block with pieces of thick card stock glued to each end to ensure I was sanding the paint to a precise level. I also checked the uniformity of the glow after sanding each coat, as this made it easier to see where more paint was needed.

Whether using home-made lume or the commercial product, the steps for making the individual indices are the same. The round indices of the Adventurer dial were punched out using the same sharpened 2mm leather punch that I used for the dial centre hole. Before doing this, I thoroughly cleaned the inside and outside of the punch with a toothpick so that the indices would not be contaminated. I punched the indices by hand, pressing hard enough to cut through the lume and the paper label material, but not the label backing. After punching out each index, I used a small brass tube to push it out of the punch and onto another piece of label backing material.

The rectangular indices were made by first cutting two parallel lines to make a strip of the right width, and then cutting this into pieces of the appropriate length. To make the triangular indices, I marked the wooden block holding the luminous material at four points, defining two lines that crossed over at the correct angle (since the artwork was generated mathematically, it was easy to determine the spacing of these points using the concept of similar triangles). Once a properly pointed wedge had been cut, I cut this to the correct length.

The photo shows the dial after the last matte coat was dry. If you look very carefully, the dimple can still be seen as a very subtle difference in texture, but it is completely unnoticeable, even if you know where to look, in the completed watch. It was difficult to even get it to show up in the photo.

Unfortunately, I neglected to take any photographs of the Evolution dial after the indices were applied, but it looked approximately the same, except with a high-gloss finish. Unlike the Adventurer dial, no lacquer was applied after the indices, as it would not have been possible to polish the finish afterwards. The adhesive on the commerical luminous tape was also much stronger than that of the home-made lume, so I was less worried about needing to seal the indices. 152ee80cbc

soil fertility and fertilizers book pdf free download

pdf to text converter offline software free download full version

jackpot master pusher app download