Tower Peak
An ascent of Tower Peak (Northwest Chute, class 3), September 26, 2020.
Timeline:
September 25, 2020. I spent the night at the trailhead at Leavitt Meadows to try out the new sleep system I built for my 4Runner. It turned out to be a very comfortable night. I woke up at 6:15, had breakfast and started on the trail at 7:19, going through the campground, over the bridge across the West Walker River, and then along the trail on the East side of the meadow. I was going at a good 3 miles-per-hour pace at first, and slowed down later in the day as the hours passed by and I was gaining some elevation. I took a break around 10:30 and chatted with a fisherman named Carl, who had lost his reel. I continued on to Piute Meadows, and took a 20-minute break for lunch at noon, which led to renewed vigor for the uphill portion to Tower Lake. In the valley just below the lake, I met two climbers who were coming down from Tower Peak. One (Bob from Berkeley CA) looked like an experienced Sierra climber and we exchanged stories. Later, having learnt their names from their summit register entry and searched online, I found out his brother (Barry Rugo from Ipswich MA) was an Everest summiter. Anyway, I reached Tower Lake at 14:46, feeling pretty tired and with sore feet. I set up camp in a choice spot, took a nap, had dinner and then hiked up to the tarn above Tower Lake (with nice views of the top portion of the Watchtower). I went to bed early. (A 7:26 hour day, 15.6 miles, 3,510 feet of elevation gain).
September 26, 2020. The alarm went off at 5:45 - I was about to face a long day. I set out toward Tower Pass at 6:47 and felt strong going up the steep talus and slabs to the base of the North Ridge of Tower Peak. It took me less than 45 minutes to reach the base of the large snowfield that lies below the ridge. I opted to go climber's right over friction slabs. I joined the ridge and followed it scrupulously to where a tall gendarme blocks the way (some easy 3rd class). One moves a bit onto the West face at that point, to join an obvious staircase (the Northwest Chute) that leads directly to the summit block. The rock was solid and the ascent flowed easily. I reached the top at 8:33, and enjoyed fantastic views in the morning light. Despite the Creek Fire, I could see clearly all the way to Mount Ritter, Banner Peak and the Lyell group. I spent about 25 minutes on the summit, signing the register and taking in the outstanding views in all directions. On the descent, I once again stayed on the crest of the North Ridge, and this time descended the other side of the snowfield (skier's right). It's not clear which option is better. The descent was quick and I was back in camp at 10:12. I made a cup of coffee, ate a cereal bar, packed up camp and set out for the long descent back to Leavitt Meadows at 11:03. At Upper Piute Meadows, I stopped for a lunch of tuna and crackers on the porch of the Piute Cabin - a great spot that I had completely missed on the way up. The miles went by monotonously after that and I settled into a regular pace past Lower Piute Meadows, following the course of the West Walker River, and on toward the trailhead. A little after Roosevelt Lake, I took a pack trail descending steeply to the left toward Leavitt Meadows, leading on the West side of the meadow to the pack station. The river was very low in the late season of a dry year, so I had no trouble crossing it at a wide spot. This shortcut saved me about half a mile on the return, and I reached the car at 17:45. (A 10:03 hour day, 18.4 miles, 3,040 feet of elevation gain).
Trip totals: 17:29 hours, 34 miles, 6,550 feet of elevation gain.