Matterhorn Peak / Whorl Mountain / Virginia Peak
Ascents of Matterhorn Peak (Southeast Slope, class 2), Whorl Mountain (Southeast Face to West Face, variation, class 4) and Virginia Peak (North Ridge, class 2), Yosemite National Park, June 22-25, 2015.
Timeline:
June 22, 2015. I left the trailhead at Twin Lakes at 10:51 and reached camp just below Horse Creek Pass on its southern side at 16:00 (a 5:09 hour day). I felt weak because I did not stop for lunch. There are a couple of discouraging false passes before reaching the Spiller creek drainage. The pass itself is reached on its west side – you actually climb above the pass proper which in this season was clogged with steep snow. I finished dinner at 19:00 and did some reading in the tent.
June 23, 2015. I left camp at 7:25 for an ascent of Matterhorn Peak via its Southeast Slopes. I did not think much of this route, which is mostly class 1 (the top portion, when one gains the South Ridge, is more interesting). The views from the Matterhorn summit, however, are very nice. I reached the summit at 8:55, after 1:30 hours (taking my time). I left the summit at 9:20 and was back in camp at 10:09. I had lunch and rehydrated, and set off to climb Whorl Mountain at 10:42. I had no trouble locating the correct chutes and passages across the various chutes, but after locating the chockstone chute I faced many route finding issues: the chockstone passage was clogged with snow, so I had to find an alternative. My alternative route was to go back to chute #2 and climb it to its apex (class 4). I then did a downward traverse of the West Face of Whorl on some sandy ledges, ultimately finding a chute that led upwards to a snow-filled gap just north of the summit. From slightly below the gap, one can find exposed and insecure right-leaning class 3 ledges to the summit. I reached the summit at 13:55, after 3:17 hours of climbing. I found no summit register, only a Ziploc bag under a rock containing some papers and register entries. I left the summit around 14:10 and was back in camp at 16:16 (camp to camp, it was a 5:34 hour outing).
Reading Secor's book it is apparent I did not gain the summit ridge immediately upon cresting chute #2, as would have been the case had I gone under the chockstone in chute #3. This caused me to have to traverse the West Face, as described above. Overall this is a very interesting route that causes the mountaineer to work hard and to do some creative problem solving. Whorl was the highlight of this trip.
June 24, 2015. I left camp at 8:10 intending to climb Virginia Peak. I did a long diagonally ascending traverse up the West Face of Twin Peaks to reach Twin Peaks Pass. I had a slight bit of trouble finding the correct line, as I stayed too low. It is necessary to stay on grey rock, above some broken cliffs, virtually all the time (if you find yourself on steep slopes of red rock, you are too low or too far south). Eventually I found the way and emerged from a notch slightly above Twin Peaks Pass on its north side. From there it is mostly flat walking on a use trail to the base of Virginia Peak. I was at the base of the North Ridge at 10:30 and on the summit at 10:51. There is a use trail most of the way up the North Ridge, and some class 2 moves. There may have been a class 3 move somewhere near an opening that affords a view of the lake below, but it seems avoidable and barely class 3. I had a nice lunch on the summit. There is a register box of the cylindrical kind, but it has been bashed with rocks and was sealed shut. I tried to pry it open but did not succeed, so I did not sign the register. Bring a crowbar. I left the summit at 11:25, briefly considering an ascent of Twin Peaks. Instead I decided to descend the West Face of Virginia Peak to Spiller Creek and hike up the drainage back to camp. I saw crazy wildflowers, beautiful meadows, and some mosquitos. I scared a mule deer hiding in a tree thicket. I was back in camp at 13:20 (a 5:10 hour outing). I spent the afternoon trying to stay out of the sun, reading a book, and regretting my decision not to go up Twin Peaks.
June 25, 2015. I left camp at 7:58 and headed up Matterhorn Pass to return to Twin Lakes via Burro Pass and Little Slide Canyon. I reached Matterhorn Pass (a fun class 2 scramble) at 8:40. Lots of Sky Pilot (Polemonium Eximium) at the pass. I hiked across the northern end of Matterhorn Canyon, reaching Burro Pass at 10:00. This afforded a grand view of the southern aspect of the Sawtooth range. Descending on the northern side of Burro Pass I found myself in some wet meadows covered in wildflowers, before making a slight ascent toward Mule Pass. I left the trail to join Little Slide Canyon which I proceeded to descend. After lunch under the shade of an overhanging rock near the outlet of Ice Lake, I walked by the Incredible Hulk around 13:00. I could hear climbers and see their tents, but I could not locate them on the face. Then began the steep and arduous hike down Little Slide Canyon, which features a use trail that is easy to lose if one is not constantly on the lookout for cairns. I finally reached the junction with the Robinson Creek trail at 15:40, and was back at my car at Twin Lakes at 16:40 (an 8:42 hour day). I spent the night in Mammoth before returning home the next day.