One of the steepest learning curves when starting with 3D printing is learning how to calibrate all the motors accurately. The good news is that once you know how to calibrate one motor of the printer, the rest are pretty well the same. The following instructable shows you how to accurately calibrate your printer using minimal filament (filament is only needed to calibrate the motor that feeds the filament through the hotend).
Using My Colido 3D DIY Printer With Cura
In Repetier tell your printer to move its X-axis. I like to start with 70mm (assuming you're using a 100x100x100mm printbed). If you choose to move your X-axis further, you should have less margin for error, but you don't want to go too far and over shoot your printers capabilities. Use another piece of tape at the same marker point you used before moving the X-axis. This is where your printer thinks 70mm is. (picture 3) We'll call this measurement the "Desired movement."
This is pretty similar to what we've already done. The only real difference is finding another place to stick your tape to mark how far the Y-axis moves. First home your X,Y&Z-axes. Next move your X-axis over until it lines up with the most outside part of your printer arm(picture1). Place a piece of tape on the Y-axis over a point marked on the X-axis(picture 2). Tell Repetier to move the Y-axis 70mm. Now mark that point with a piece of tape and measure the true distance between those points (picture3). I got 69.8mm, which isn't far enough. With these two measurements and our current M92 value for Y, we can now solve for our New M92 value.
Instead of using the digital calipers for the Z-axis, we'll be using a ruler. First home your XY&Z axes. Next put your ruler perpendicular to your printbed, alongside the printer. Move your eye so it's level with the printer and make note of a particular point of your printer (I like to use the tallest part of the printers arm). Make sure when you take your measurements, your eye is level with the point your measuring. I measured 17.7cm. Now tell your printer to raise 100mm. Take a look at how far your printer has actually moved. Mine moved to about 27.75cm. If we subtract the second measurement from the first (27.75-17.7cm) we get 10.05cm or 100.5mm. So we've slightly overshot our goal of 100mm.
I find this to be very confusing. I have a FLSUN Cube printer. This printer does the X and Y movements by moving the print head left, right, towards, and away and the bed does the Z movements by moving up and down. The instructions talks about picture 2 or picture 4, but none of the pictures are numbered. At what point do I start numbering the pictures. Sorry for asking seemingly stupid questions, but I am one of those that once I get confused, its all uphill from there on. I understand you cannot cover all printers, but there are only a couple of formats to cover. My printer bed is just over 300mm square. Printer supports 260 square. When I run M28 followed by pressing the X Home icon in Repetier-Host V2.1.6, the print head moves to X20 and leaves Y and Z where they are. If I run M501 at this point, it thinks the print head is still at 100 for x,y and z.
Sometimes I just think too much, and it just doesn't end well.
I'm still not exactly sure what you're asking. M501 can't save your home positions, that's why you need your endstops every time you home your printer. Once you turn off and on your printer or if a motor skips steps (from physically stopping your motors from rotating), your printer will get "lost." There are exceptions to this, like with the popular Trinamic drivers that can sense stalling and can pause a print that has skipped a step or use a physical block to act as an endstop.... but even those need to home after losing power.
If you have an opensource printer, and if you want to probe a different location(s) on your print bed you should be able to do that too.... it may add to the confusion.... I believe it would involve flashing your printerboard with modified marlin code.
I can think of 3 ways to calibrate your printer (4 if you have a self calibrating printer). Probably the easiest way is described in my tutorials. The next easiest way would be to do it in the Arduino IDE when you flash your marlin software to your printer (this will take awhile cause you have to flash your printer with every change you make). The most tedious way is to create a sliced file of a print and then manually enter lines of code to do whatever changes you need. I'm not exactly sure what you're asking and if what I just said made you more confused. What kind of printer are you using?
Shot bru! You have no idea how much I struggled. There are lots of Marlin tutorials out there. The very very first thing before you try anything at all with your newly built printer is to calibrate the motors. Mine was Waaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy off. Not knowing what I was doing I incremented the bed size to 475 before it got to the opposite end. Then I realized the motors are only moving half of what the LCD said because the bed is only 220mm. Thanks to your instructable. I managed to fix it. all of the axis-es were moving terribly slow, now they move much quicker to get from point A to B.
Is there any way to change the calibration value without using computer and save it?
The calibration values keep resetting back to default every time I switch the printer off and back on. The printer usb connection is not working properly.
First with your printer unplugged see what COM ports are available to connect to. Then plug in your computer and there should be a new 'COM port' available to connect to. Make sure you select the one that appears only when the printer is plugged in and turned on.
While most basic, beginner-level 3D printers use PLA and ABS filament, more expensive models usually allow you to use a wider range of materials. For instance, you may be able to print with carbon-fiber or wooden filaments, water-soluble support materials, or even glass.
If you want to print with ABS*, you need the right printer. In the past, there were only a few of them, but today the market offers several good printers that produce high-quality print objects with the right printing material (filaments).
Another advantage offered by ABS is a certain protection of the printed object against brittleness. Compared to objects made of other printing materials, objects printed with ABS filament appear smooth, even and solid. In addition to the ABS filament, the printing result depends on other influences, such as the quality of the printer, setting the correct printing temperature, and the settings on the slicer.
The modern Adventurer 3 from Flashforge* works with WLAN, USB, LAN and performs leveling automatically, which is a key advantage of this printer. In addition, this printer works with a real-time camera.
The operation of the printer is quiet. Replacing the extruder is also straightforward. With the built-in surveillance camera and uncomplicated wireless cloud operation, this ABS 3D printer moves with the times and is on a high level of 3D printing technology. Moreover, the printer is already assembled and ready for immediate use. In addition to ABS material, you can also process PLA* and PETG* in this printer. Dimensions: 150 x 150 x 150 mm.
The CoLiDo DIY printer* with its size of 200 x 200 x 170 mm is suitable for printing almost all 3D objects. It is considered simple, stable, practical and reliable and is particularly well received by hobby print artists, such as DIY enthusiasts. But you can also find this printer, year of manufacture 2016, in the commercial, scientific and industrial sectors.
Five printing modes are at your disposal with this innovative printer with a combined oscillating frame. In addition, the filament can be easily replaced. The nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. You work here with a USB connection. In addition, this printer model offers you a display about the length of the consumable, about the print time and other information and works with the software package REPETIER-HOST 0.95F and the operating systems from Windows 7, MAC OS or Linux. Easy 1-click installation is guaranteed. If you print with this printer and ABS filament, you will achieve a smoothly built stable object with low shrinkage.
The size of this 3D-printer with a black metal frame is 48 x 36 x 41 cm, which makes it more suitable for schools and workplaces. But if you like it and you like the features, it might be the right device for your ABS prints as well. This printer is also popular in laboratories.
With the integrated Dremel software and the color touchscreen, you already know what your desired model will look like before printing. This preview increases the anticipation of your print result. The build volume is 25.5 x 15.5 x 17 cm. With its 2-point leveling and WIFI, the printer is especially suitable for advanced 3D model designers. This device works with Print Studio software and supports Windows and Mac operating systems.
The mentioned 3D printers for ABS are mature models that are popular among many users. Each of these printers impresses with certain advantages. But the boom of the 3D printing market has not left many other 3D printing devices untouched.
This printer works with the Cura software and Windows, Mac and Linux operating systems. Via WIFI and a Robo app, the operation of this ABS printer is always guaranteed. The launch of this modern 3D printer is already a few years ago, in the month of 07/2017. Until today, this printer provides reliable services and is one of the most popular 3D printers, especially for private individuals, although this can also be found in one or another business.
But the printer alone does not deliver optimized results. A positive print result is achieved with the right printer, high-quality filaments and other accessories, but primarily from your experience. The printer does what you want it to do when you apply the know-how you have acquired. You can also find out here what is required for optimum ABS printing and what you should bear in mind:
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