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Product description: Save your favorite videos into the digital age: For backup it will be high time. After all, VHS cassettes lose quality after 15 years! So do not go to work! Simply connect this smart video grabber to a video recorder or camera, you can save the treasures on your hard disk. You will be amazed how easy it is! Later on, you can burn your movies by clicking DVD. Also you can save records, tapes and the favorite cassettes of your youth via stereo audio connection to your hard drive! Quickly digitize analogue players, such as VHS, SVHS, Video 8 or Hi8 Easy connection via USB 2.0 Digital picture quality in top quality (PAL / NTSC) Connections: USB 2.0, S-video, AV-Cinch, SCART Compatible with Windows XP / Vista / 7/8 (each 32 and 64 Bit) and 8.1 (32 Bit) Video grabber including scart cable, AV cinch cable, CD with software and English,German,Spanish,ect manual


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The "advanced" audio setting is referring to the Video converter, and the camera to which it is connected is giving the sound but the video converter does not record the sound. I only see the video. The audio indicator does not indicate volume, it is grey.

The camera and the video grabber connection have the same s video input/output (both male/female).

So I bought a cable that has also two same opposite connections (both male/female) to be able to connect the 2 same s video connections of the camera and the grabber.

1 x 250GB Evo 970 NVMe: drive for C: drive backup 1 x 1TB Sabrent NVMe drive for Operating System / Programs only. 1X WD BLACK 1TB internal SATA 7,200rpm hard drives.1 for internal projects, 1 for Library clips/sounds/music/stills./backup of working projects. 1x500GB SSD current project only drive, 2x WD RED 2TB drives for latest footage storage. Total 21TB of 8 external WD drives for backup.

S-video connections carry no audio signal. As @johnebaker wrote above, if you are using a "pure" S-video cable you also need a separate audio cable to connect the audio output of your camera to the audio input of your computer.

A big one is your mobile phone which constantly send out signals when not in use. Even when things are well shielded. That does sound very 'Digital' almost Morse code sound whereas main hum is a constant frequency. Signal can also be induced within the mains if running on the mains power supply and spikes or clicks can be caused by heavy duty mains being switched in from pumps from central heating of hot water systems or freezers / fridges / washing machines and should ideally be plugged into a different loop of the ring mains.Years ago it was not uncommon to see rf chokes fitted to the end of a mouse lead or video cable. Not so common now.

If you only get the noise when running off of the mains it could point to a problem with the mains charger or the socket it is connected to could be sharing the mains loop with another noisy bit of equipment from the list above.

Audio drift can have a couple of causes, dropped frames (which a TBC can help with), and unstable clocks, where the audio isn't recorded at quite the precise rate it should be, causing drift, as Michael correctly pointed out.

Dropped frames caused by tape dropouts are a problem if the device skips a frame, without skipping the corresponding frame of audio. A TBC helps with this, as it will ensure the vertical sync pulse is there for each frame, even if the tape has quality issues - it will ensure your capture device always sees a frame. LOTS of older PC capture devices I tried were impacted by dropped frames. The most reliable method I found was using a dedicated HDD/DVD recorder unit, all the ones I used would always maintain the correct frame rate (without input via TBC), and the audio would always be in sync. I also sometimes used a MiniDV deck to achieve the same, which has no choice but to always record a frame, and therefore keep audio/video in sync.

Doing it via PC, I've only had success with 1 device, a "Dazzle DVD Recorder HD" that I bought in 2011. It came bundled with a copy of Pinnacle Studio HD, and it all runs on an old Windows XP machine I keep for that purpose. I don't know if it is the hardware or the software (or maybe the combination), but this device has worked for me in transferring tapes and keeping things in sync, and I've not had to buy another device since coming across this one.

If you can find a combo VHS/DVD recorder unit (I'm pretty sure they are no longer manufactured), they are usually the most reliable solution to doing this without a lot of effort. A DVD Recorder (with analog inputs) will also do the job, mine had a HDD which you would record to first, and then output those files onto a DVD. I stopped using the unit when the DVD drive eventually failed. Otherwise you are stuck just trying the various analog USB capture devices on the market, which like I've said, I've found to have mixed results, and only come across one device so far that does the job reliably.

No, a TBC won't solve an audio-video sync problem. Most likely the sync problem is coming from a shortcut in the capture device or driver that samples the audio and video with separate and/or unstable clocks. A TBC built into a "prosumer" VTR like the one in your link will give you slightly better video quality. So would using the S-Video out instead of NTSC/PAL composite, if your capture device supports it.

A TBC will definitely solve the audio-video sync problem. I started with cheap Amazon/Ebay sourced transfer devices from China doing countless edits to get the audio right. A Blackmagic Intensity for good colour representation along with a professional quality VCR with inbuilt TBC is the best way to go for a faultless transfer. Been doing this for years with no problems since. 152ee80cbc

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