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This was a piece of luck. Kachi Ram had five bosom friends among theyoung Shoka coolies. In the evenings in camp they often joined in weirdlove-songs, in memory of the fair maids of their hearts whom they hadleft behind, on the other side of the Himahlyas.

We named this camp "Devil's Camp," for diabolical indeed was the windthat shook our tents, not to speak of the snow blown into our sheltersby the raging storm. During the night the wind grew in fury. Neitherwood, dung, nor lichens for fuel could be found. Our tents were pitchedat 16,900 feet above sea-level. To ascend to the summit of the rangewould mean a further climb of two thousand feet. In such weather the[63]difficulties of the ascent were increased tenfold, though for escapingthe notice of the Tibetan watchmen, who were spying our movements, wecould have no better chance than on a stormy night like this. I arrangedwith the doctor that he was to take back to Garbyang all the baggage Ihad discarded and the men who had declined to follow me. He must leaveall our tents pitched until the afternoon of the next day, in order tolet the Tibetans suppose that we were all sheltered under them. Thiswould give me time to make a long forced march before they coulddiscover that I had left my tent, and could get on my track. Hard as itwould be for our little party going forward, we would take no tentexcept the small tente d'abri, which weighed about four pounds. Weshould, in any case, be unable to pitch a tent for several days, forfear of being detected by the Tibetans. As soon as they would discoverthat we had left they would surely start in search of us. We should haveto march long distances at night, keeping mostly on the summit of therange instead of proceeding, like ordinary travellers, along thevalleys. We must get what little sleep we could during the day, when wecould hide in some secluded spot. The thought of making a fire had to beabandoned because, even in the remote chance of finding fuel at thegreat altitudes where we were compelled to camp, every one knows thatthe light of a fire and a column of smoke can be seen from greatdistances, both in the day and at night. We had talked over all thesematters before we made a start, and, moreover, we were fully aware that[64]if the Tibetans could lay their hands upon us, we were too few to fightthem, and we had little chance of escaping with our lives. In fact,taking things all round, we had come to the conclusion that our liveswere worth a mere song from the moment of our leaving Devil's Camp.

The wooden cups or bowls used by the Tibetans are called puku,fruh, or cariel. In them tsamba is eaten after tea has been pouredon it, and the mixture worked into a paste by more or less dirtyfingers. Lumps of butter are mixed with this paste, and even bits of[173]chura (cheese). The richer people (officials) indulge in flour andrice, which they import from India and China, and in kassur, or driedfruit (dates and apricots) of inferior quality. The rice is boiled intoa kind of soup called the tupka, a luxury only indulged in on grandoccasions, when such other cherished delicacies as gimakara (sugar)and shelkara (lump white sugar) are also eaten. The Tibetans are fondof meat, but few can afford to eat it. Wild game, yak, and sheep areconsidered excellent food. The meat and bones are boiled in a cauldronwith lavish quantities of salt and pepper.

Dreary as this period of captivity was, yet it was instructive. As wewent along, I got the soldiers to teach me several Tibetan songs, andfrom the less ill-natured men of our guard I picked up, by judicious[249]questioning, a considerable amount of information. 2351a5e196