Mountain People
There’s a certain spirit among mountain people everywhere around the world. You hit the trails and the air feels a little fresher, the ground feels a little softer, and strangers seem a little kinder. But I don’t think anyone compares to the mountain people of Bulgaria. I don’t mean there’s like this group of roughin’ it mountain people living in the wilderness of the Rhodopes; I just mean that when you step onto a Bulgarian mountain you’re basically jumping head first into some really good vibes.
I should probably mention that Bulgarians aren’t exactly famous for being overly friendly (i.e. on the streets, in shops, or in restaurants). There’s a blunt honesty, especially in Sofia, which leads to an absence of the “American cheeriness” (or more often referred to as fakeness here in BG) that most of us are accustomed to. Waiters aren’t working for tips so there’s no need for over-the-top graciousness and, honestly, there’s just a refreshing truthfulness to people’s everyday energy. If a Bulgarian is chatting away with you, there’s no doubt that they want to be chatting with you. And if they don’t want to chat with you, well, they won’t. It was definitely a bit of a culture shock at first, but now this candor offers me a sense of security.
And it is that precedent of frank sincerity that makes the animated nature of Bulgarian hikers so noteworthy. On my way to Kamen Dell, Cherni Vrah, and the other peaks I’ve reached here, I passed a substantial number of hikers. And no matter how steep the incline, how fast the pace, or how deep the snow, every single one made a point to say, at minimum, a cheerful “Здравейте!” (hello!). Frequently, this hello was followed by a full fledged conversation about topics from trail conditions ranging to “how the family’s doing.” (Keep in mind these are conversations with hikers who were strangers not minutes ago).
This enthusiasm on the trails is mirrored in a widespread Bulgarian pride for their land. The first time I heard of the Rhodope Mountains I was almost brought to tears; My friend’s description of the greenery, the animals, the colors, and the stars was so passionate that if I didn’t have an exact image in my mind, I certainly had a grasp of the love she felt. To understand Bulgaria is to understand the diversity this country holds. From the Black Sea to the Old Mountain, from bustling Sofia to the historic villages. It is a land of culture and history and nature but above all, it is a land which is loved by its people. That is, perhaps, the reason the mountain people of Bulgaria are as charming as I have tried (in vain) to convey: people on those mountains are happy because those mountains are their happy place. And with the kindness I’ve been gifted on those trails, those mountains are my happy place, too.
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