Discovering Vietnamese Cuisine

We had been told that as a travel destination, Vietnam was known for its rich culture, its beautiful natural landscapes, its vibrant cities and its friendly populace; but it was the delicate flavours of its diverse cuisine that left a lasting impression on the visitor. We decided to find out for ourselves through a recent trip to Vietnam.

A Healthy Food Choice

From our preparatory reading, we gathered that Vietnamese cooking, with its fresh and nutritious ingredients and minimal use of oil, is considered one of the healthiest cuisines worldwide. Maintaining a delicate balance of flavours, Vietnamese recipes use lemongrass, ginger, mint, coriander, cinnamon, lime and basil leaves. Apart from herbs and vegetables, meats such as pork, beef and chicken are also used along with freshwater fish, crabs and shrimps. Among the main flavouring agents are fish sauce, shrimp paste and soy sauce.

All this sounded very tempting and tantalizing for our taste buds and on our first day in Vietnam, we set forth to have our first taste of Vietnamese food. Stepping out of our hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, we spotted a board saying: “Vietnamese Restaurant & Vegetarian Food.” Judging from the number of people waiting outside, it appeared to be a popular and well-frequented place, and without a second thought, we joined the others in the queue. After a short wait we were ushered in and escorted to our table.

We were presented with a colourful menu with exotic names in Vietnamese for the various dishes on offer. Fortunately, an explanation was also given on the side in English. After some suggestions from the waitress, we placed our order – and thus began the start of our tryst with Vietnamese food.

For starters we had a combination platter of Nem Ran and Goi Cuon, two variations of the well-loved Vietnamese spring rolls. Nem ran (known in South Vietnam as Cha gio) is made typically with a crispy outer shell of either wheat or rice paper and filled with a mixture of ground meat, thin rice vermicelli noodles and shredded carrots. The meat can also be replaced with a vegetable filling.  The roll is then deep fried until a golden brown and served with a side of lettuce and a sweet and savoury sauce.

Goi cuon is a fresh and perhaps healthier version of the spring roll. The translucent outer wrapping of rice paper is packed with salad greens, a sliver of meat or seafood, rice vermicelli noodles and coriander before being neatly rolled and served with a tangy dipping sauce.

For the main course we were served Cam Rang Trung (egg fried rice) and Tom Xao Hat Dieu (stir fried shrimp with cashew nuts) both of which were delicious. The delicate and subtle flavour of herbs came through nicely with intermittent sips of Tra Lai, the Vietnamese jasmine tea. No traditional Vietnamese meal is complete without Pho and our hostess was surprised that we had not tried it. We explained that we were already quite satiated but promised to return the following day to make up for the omission.

Vietnam’s National Dish

We had been quite taken up by the ambiance of the restaurant and the friendly and attentive waitress and, as promised, we were back the following day. Pho is the national dish of Vietnam and is sold everywhere from chic restaurants to street corners. With minor regional variations, this simple staple consists of a salty broth, fresh rice noodles, slivers of chicken or beef and plenty of fresh and fragrant herbs. We were certainly not disappointed and relished this wholesome dish with its distinctive flavour. We ended our meal with a refreshing Che Thai, a Vietnamese dessert made with coconut milk and a mix of colourful tropical fruits and jellies, served chilled.

Street Food

Found on food carts in traditional open-air markets and make-shift kitchens at street corners, street food is popular with tourists because of its easy accessibility, staggering variety and reasonable price. Sitting at a sidewalk food outlet laid out with plastic tables and stools, we enjoyed Banh Mi, a Vietnamese sandwich made of a short baguette (undoubtedly of French influence), split lengthwise and lined with pate or mayonnaise. It is then filled with a choice of meat (pork, chicken or beef), pickled vegetables, jalapenos, cilantro and chili sauce.

Another mouthwatering specialty is Ban Xeo, a savoury fried pancake or crepe made of rice flour and stuffed with either pork or shrimp, onions, bean sprouts and a garnish of fresh herbs. We cut the pancake into manageable pieces and dipped it into a tangy sauce, wrapping up our meal with a fresh, green papaya salad (Som Tum), a welcome addition to any meal.

As we sat enjoying our outdoor meal, we were struck by the happy co-existence of the old and the new in Hanoi’s old quarter. Side-by-side with smart restaurants, modern cafeterias and branded clothing stores, stood small, family-run businesses, traditional eateries and roadside hawkers. As if to prove a point, along came a woman fruit seller with two baskets balanced on either side of a traditional bamboo shoulder pole known as a quang ganh. We bought some Mangosteen (Măng Cụt) and Rambutan (Chôm Chôm) which she put into a paper bag for later consumption.  

Refreshing Thirst-quenchers

The weather got progressively hotter as we moved southwards towards the Mekong Delta. A specialty of the region is Dua Nuoc, a chilled drink made from water coconut and white jelly-like pieces served usually in plastic cups and topped with plenty of ice. If you like the taste, it’s a great way to beat the heat and stay hydrated. Other popular thirst-quenchers are Chanh Muoi (salted, pickled lime juice) and Nuoc Mia (sugar cane juice).

However, it was the ubiquitous Vietnamese iced coffee (Ca Phe Da) that really took our fancy.  This popular pick-me-up, drunk at all times of the day, is a combination of strong aromatic coffee poured over sweetened condensed milk and chilled with cubes of ice.                                                                                                

The taste of that coffee still lingers on our palates as do the diverse flavours of an incredible range of Vietnamese foods. Return we must, if only to savour the untried and untested culinary delights that still await us.

Photographs by Saeed Ibrahim