The Bow Hand Anchor: How a Simple Addition to Your Arrow Can Revolutionize Your Training in Thumb Draw Archery

by Blake Cole

"Now your technique looks like a Changshan mountain snake: coiled and ready to strike. The arrowhead draws nearer to the handle without any hint of stopping or stuttering."

- Gao Ying, historical archery scholar, as translated in The Way of Archery: A 1637 Chinese Military Training Manual

Introduction

I was first introduced to the bow hand anchor by Justin Ma at the 2018 Chinese Archery Program held in Odum, Georgia at the secluded bamboo farm of generous hosts Jaap and Kay Koppedrayer. Without Justin's teachings and correspondences this article would not exist.

Justin and Jie Tian are the authors of The Way of Archery: A 1637 Chinese Military Training Manual. Together they are responsible for a resurgence in traditional Chinese archery, and by extension, thumb draw archery. If you're new to thumb draw, there's no better place to start than with Justin and Jie's book.

This article is meant to be both a guide for newcomers to thumb draw who are looking to establish form foundations, and a resource for veteran thumb drawers who are looking to evaluate their current process, or are seeking help with challenges like target panic. Though this is not an article primarily about archery form, certain foundational concepts are discussed in service of preparing the archer for the process of developing their bow hand anchor. 

The notes on form are gleaned from The Way of Archery, literature from the Chinese Archery Program, and the one-on-one teaching I've been fortunate enough to receive from Justin, Jie, and their co-instructors at the Program: Duke Bhuphaibool and Jaap and Kay Koppedrayer. I would also like to thank Haydon Fu, Chris Lee, Tony Nguyen, Johnny Au, and Josh Fong, as well the Chinese Archery community at-large, for their always-thoughtful discourse.

Note: If you've only recently been introduced to thumb draw and are looking for help with some of the basics, I recommend first visiting The Way of Archery website's tutorial section, where you can find instruction on how to use a thumb ring, and other useful tips.

Table of Contents

What is a bow hand anchor?

In archery, an anchor is a reference point that signifies full draw. In this article I will be discussing a lesser-known example called the bow hand anchor.

The bow hand anchor is a reference point on the arrow itself. When the archer achieves full draw, the bow hand anchor comes into contact with the bow hand, providing an objective indicator for release. Bow hand anchors come in many variations, which will be discussed later in the article.

The bow hand anchor is an invaluable tool for:

1. Determining, or evaluating, draw length

2. Ensuring full draw is always attained

3. Achieving a clean, expansive release

4. Maximizing bow efficiency and arrow speed

5. Increasing consistency across the board, and therefore accuracy

It can be used to combat negative habits like:

1. Draw hand collapse, also known as creep

2. A poor, or sideways, release, often referred to as plucking

3. Target panic, or the inability to reach full draw

4. A multitude of other unintended form inconsistencies

Historical references to the bow hand anchor

There are references to the bow hand anchor in historical sources. The following passage (translated by Justin Ma and Haydon Fu) appears in "She Jing" (射經) by Wang Ju (王琚), 756 CE (Tang Dynasty):

故曰： 鏃不上指 必無中矢 指不知鏃 同於無目

As the old saying goes: If the back of the arrowhead does not touch the bow hand finger, there is no way the arrow will hit. If the finger does not touch the arrowhead, it is like shooting blind.

(See also Stephen Selby's translation in "Chinese Archery" (Hong Kong University Press, 2000), section 9B6, page 198).

A note about equipment as it relates to the bow hand anchor

Once you start experimenting with a bow hand anchor, it will teach you a lot about the gear you are using. You might realize that your bow's max draw is not long enough and that your arrows are too short; or that a smaller bow might be more efficient.

If it becomes clear that your current setup is not giving you the space you need, there are a handful of companies that offer affordable, quality fiberglass bows with long max draws, and arrows to match them. Manchu, or Qing, bows, for instance, usually draw up to 35-36 inches, and are available in fiberglass form at entry-level prices from companies like Alibow and AF Archery.

There are loads of unique Asiatic bows out there. The key is to eventually find one that will allow for a smooth—and efficient—draw. If you’d like to view an introduction to Asiatic bows, you can watch Justin and Jie’s “Thinking About Getting An Asiatic Bow?” video below.

(Above) Justin Ma and Jie Tian present an introduction to Asiatic bows.

Using the bow hand anchor to determine—or evaluate—your draw length

Step 1: Applying an easily adjustable bow hand anchor

Whether you're pursuing thumb draw as someone with previous Mediterranean experience, or as someone who is altogether new to archery, determining an anchor for thumb draw might seem pretty mysterious at first. On any given day you might see one thumb drawer anchoring at their chin, while another is drawing beyond their head. 

Because thumb draw release locations are so varied, it is necessary to create an objective reference point that is independent of the draw hand altogether. 

This is where the bow hand anchor comes in.

The first step of the the draw length testing process is to apply an easily adjustable bow hand anchor that can be shifted up and down the arrow as needed without distracting you from the task at hand. If you own multiple bows, select the one that is the most comfortable in regards to length and weight, then select the longest arrow you have that is compatible with said bow.

There are a number of household items that can function as your adjustable bow hand anchor. My preferred implement for this step is a cinched rubber band, but you can also use a clothespin, binder clip, twisty tie, or pipe cleaner. A paper clip works, as well, just make sure it is tight enough. 

As a last resort, you can cut out a small square of cardboard. Simply pierce the cardboard with the arrow so that it slides up and down the shaft. Just make sure it doesn’t become flimsy or it will compromise your measurements through accidental shifting. Place your preferred implement at the very end of your arrow shaft, preceding the arrow point.

Note: This arrow is not for shooting. It is a diagnostic tool for the first phase of draw length testing.

Before we begin, a quick note about form. Make sure you maintain a balanced stance with a settled bow shoulder that is neither hunched nor turned, and a relaxed, extended bow arm. Endeavor to squeeze your shoulder blades together and draw down into your back. Adhere to these form foundations whenever experimenting with draw length, as a proper frame is necessary in order to have a consistent baseline. Using a comfortable poundage, initially, will give you the most accurate assessment of your draw.

Using the bow hand anchor to determine—or evaluate—your draw length

Step 2: The preliminary testing phase: finding the sweet spot

Even though we will not be releasing the arrow yet, make sure you are facing a safe target. Nock your modified arrow and empty your head of expectations. Draw the bow slowly while fully expanding your chest. Again, do your best to squeeze your shoulder blades together and access your back muscles. Remember, we are not releasing the arrow during this phase.

If you feel like you've attained full draw and the adjustable bow hand anchor hasn't yet reached your bow hand, let the bow down and adjust it toward you. 

If the adjustable bow hand anchor reaches your bow hand before you feel you've attained full draw, let the bow down and adjust it away from you. 

The goal is to find a sweet spot that feels neither rushed, nor forced. This guess and check process is the first step in determining your ideal draw length.

Note: You should use the same bow throughout the entirety of your draw length testing period as variations in grip and brace height can affect your bow hand anchor location. More on this later.

Remember, during this initial phase of experimentation, it is essential you maintain good form and give yourself plenty of time to experiment. Do not concern yourself with the location of your draw hand.

See the video below for a visual demonstration of this step.

(Above) A visual demonstration of how you can use the bow hand anchor can aid you in determining your ideal draw length.

Note: This step is not intended for long-term training. It is merely a diagnostic phase to prepare you for what comes next. Habitual dry pulling (drawing without firing the bow) can lead to bad habits.

Using the bow hand anchor to determine—or evaluate—your draw length

Step 3: Bow hand contact points for the bow hand anchor

When it comes to which part of your bow hand makes contact with the bow hand anchor, it varies from person to person. This will largely depend on your choice of grip and the anatomy of your hand. In most cases it will be either the interphalangeal, or uppermost joint of the thumb, or the tip of the thumb. You might also choose to use your index finger. In the end, what matters is that you are consistent and safe. Below are a few examples of bow hand anchor contact points. 

Note: More details about bow hand safety will be discussed later in the article.

Using the bow hand anchor to determine—or evaluate—your draw length

Step 4: Applying a semi-permanent bow hand anchor in preparation for release

Once you feel like you've found your sweet spot—a distance that feels neither rushed, nor forced—you are ready to apply a semi-permanent bow hand anchor to your arrow and begin practicing your release. 

Take a new measurement from the valley of the nock of your arrow to your rubber band or similar implement that you are using for your adjustable bow hand anchor. After you have your measurement, go ahead and remove it. 

Now, wrap a piece of tape around the arrow shaft where you made your measurement. You might want to split the tape vertically so it takes up less space on the shaft. Athletic and masking tape work well. Don't overdo the wrap—as long as you have enough to create a tiny shelf on the arrow that provides feedback to your bow hand, you're good to go. Make sure to place the tape on the far side of the measurement. Your bow hand should be coming into contact with the piece of tape at the exact same point it did with the adjustable bow hand anchor. 

Tape is more durable than you think. It should hold up well, even when it is repeatedly penetrating the target. Measure it every so often to make sure it hasn't somehow shifted. If you find it has, simply peel off and reapply at your newest measurement.

Note: Tape also makes for a great permanent bow hand anchor. Other permanent bow hand anchor options will be discussed later in the article.

Using your semi-permanent bow hand anchor to train a clean release

Now that your tape is in place, you are ready to begin practicing your release with the bow hand anchor. First, let's review what constitutes a clean release. In order for the bow hand anchor to be effective, release must occur as soon as the bow hand anchor comes into contact with the bow hand. No hesitation. 

During your draw, the bow hand and draw hand must be constant opposing forces as you expand in a linear and continuous manner. If at any point collapse occurs—where the draw hand reverses direction and travels toward the bow hand prior to release, no matter how minutely—there will be irreparable damage to the release. 

A collapse can present as what is often referred to as plucking, or a sideways release. It will slow your arrow down and cause deviations in flight. When used correctly, the bow hand anchor guarantees an optimal transfer of energy, as well as uninhibited arrow flight. 

Videoing yourself may help you be more objective when it comes to proper frame and alignment and how it relates to your new bow hand anchor. For instance, if your draw elbow is overly high, you might not be accessing the proper back muscles. 

How the bow hand anchor can help with target panic and early release

The bow hand anchor can also help those working through target panic as it gives you an objective marker for reaching the goal of full draw. A comfortable poundage and good form foundations will greatly improve your chances of success. Clear your mind, take a deep breath, and simply focus on making contact with the bow hand anchor.

Spatial location of the draw hand and secondary "anchors" and the bow hand anchor

At this point in the process you might be questioning the spatial location of your draw hand. Remember, the beauty of a bow hand anchor is that it works independently of the draw hand. For this reason, it is inadvisable to dwell on the draw hand while experimenting with your draw length. It will only muddy the process. Instead, focus on expansion and engaging the right muscles. Chances are your draw hand will end up in a comfortable location as an unplanned consequence of a healthy draw, whether it is adjacent to your face, or beyond your head.

If at that point you want to utilize secondary "anchors," that is your choice. But be cautioned—anchors is in quotes because these secondary reference points should not, and cannot, become traps for a static release. It is perfectly fine to have tactile references, like brushing your earlobe, or resting the string on your chest, but this must not interfere with continuous linear expansion toward your bow hand anchor.

The bow hand anchor and microexpansion

To give yourself the best chance of performing a clean release, the bow hand anchor should be placed in a location that allows for microexpansion.

Microexpansion is the final phase of expansion that occurs at the tail end of your draw. Once you've fully settled into your back, continue to gradually expand toward release to ensure collapse never occurs. This requires a controlled, focused state, but will pay dividends in ensuring an ideal release. 

Below is an example of an expansive release using a yellow tape bow hand anchor:

(Above) An expansive release.

If you draw to the bow hand anchor in one quick motion you risk hesitation prior to release, and even the smallest amount of hesitation can cause collapse. 

Below is an example of a collapsing release (also known as draw hand creep, or plucking), using the same yellow tape bow hand anchor:

(Above) A collapsing release.

It takes time for the brain and body to adjust to different draw lengths—no matter how slight the change is. What feels like suitable expansion one day might feel crowded the next. Because of this, it is best to think of your semi-permanent anchor as an entirely new phase of trial and error, especially since you are now actually releasing the arrow.

This step will likely last much longer than the adjustable bow hand anchor phase, and should not be rushed. Remember, it is essential that the bow hand anchor allows you room for microexpansion.

Expanding through release

Make sure you are expanding through release. A sideways release signifies plucking and will dirty your arrow flight. Your draw hand should continue to move straight back at every step of your draw, including through release. This will result in a natural drop of the draw elbow post release, and clean follow through.

Returning to higher poundages after settling on a bow hand anchor

Using a bow with a comfortable poundage is a great way to begin evaluating draw length, as it allows you to relax and experiment without stressing your body. But eventually you'll be moving back up to heavier poundages after determining what you believe to be your ideal draw length. Stay vigilant in your evaluation of your ability to expand through release. One pitfall of using a very light bow is that it can be easy to overdraw it. If your draw length is too long, it won't allow you the space you need for microexpansion and a crisp release. Remember, there is no time limit when it comes to careful evaluation of the bow hand anchor.

The permanent bow hand anchor: ordering custom arrows or cutting your current ones to length

Days, weeks, maybe even months have passed, and you feel confident enough to say you've settled upon a definite measurement for your bow hand anchor. One option at this point in time is to either order custom arrows or cut your current arrows to length so that the back of your point now acts as the bow hand anchor. If you go this route, your previous bow hand anchor measurement—from the valley of the nock to the tape—now translates to: from the valley of the nock to the end of your insert (or outsert if you're using one).

Before we discuss permanent bow hand anchors, don't forget that it is perfectly acceptable to continue to use tape. It holds up better than you might think, and is easy to reapply. You can also use superglue, or epoxy, as a bow hand anchor. Simply place two pieces of tape side by side so that there is a thin negative space where the bow hand anchor occurs. Apply a thin strip of glue in a ring around the shaft, let dry, and then peel the tape. Hobby glue (cyanoacrylate)—which I find to be stronger than the average over-the-counter superglue—works even better. Just be sure to get thick viscosity. 

Note: Glue can work well, but I do consider it the most fragile bow hand anchor variation.

If you're looking for a more organic aesthetic you can use a thread, serving, or sinew wrap that is then strengthened with a very thin coating of adhesive.

Choosing a permanent bow hand anchor 

When it comes to permanent bow hand anchors, there are many great options. The first is a bullet, or bulge, point. These points have a domed transition that provides feedback when coming into contact with your bow hand. The advantage is they are easy to pull from the target, however the range of weights they are available in is somewhat limited. Some examples of bulge points are the X-Spot Black Screw-In Bullet Point and the Gold Tip EZ-Pull Point. 

The next level in feedback comes in the form of points that are slightly bigger than the shaft of the arrow. One example is the Excalibur 11/32" Field Point. These will be slightly harder to pull from the target, but will provide superb feedback. You can also buy arrow weights that come in the form of washers. The washer will be placed between your point and insert, or outsert. One big advantage of the washer bow hand anchor is it will allow you free range when it comes to point selection. If you use a bow hand glove, choose one of the more aggressive feedback options in order to guarantee it registers through the glove.

The permanent bow hand anchor should only be explored once you are extra comfortable with your expansion and draw length. You don't want to get caught in the trap of switching to a permanent bow hand anchor too soon, then resisting the change to a healthier draw length just because you already put money into arrows. If you do run into the situation where your carbon arrow is cut too short, you can try using either an outsert or a longer field point to extend it. Simply reapply the bow hand anchor at the correct measurement.

Note: Whether using a semi-permanent or permanent bow hand anchor, be prepared to adjust its size/thickness in cold weather (which can cause numbness in the bow hand), or if using a bow hand glove. Occasions like these require increased feedback.

A note about safety as it relates to permanent bow hand anchors

Again, only transition to a permanent bow hand anchor if you are extremely comfortable with your draw. You risk serious injury if you don't take a permanent bow hand anchor seriously as you can overdraw and pierce your hand, or damage your bow. 

Heavy poundage and speed shooting and the bow hand anchor

When it comes to heavy poundage, bow hand anchors are not only compatible, they are more advantageous than ever. When training up in weight, it is essential that you are reaching full draw in order to ensure you are training in a consistent manner and using the correct muscle groups. Likewise, a bow hand anchor does not inhibit one's ability to speed shoot. The beauty of the bow hand anchor is that it becomes ingrained in muscle memory and trains you to reach full draw more naturally. When speed shooting, microexpansion will be sped up, but the bow hand anchor will ensure you aren't collapsing.

In the video below I am using a 100# Asiatic war bow while performing controlled speed shooting. I am using yellow tape as a bow hand anchor on each arrow.

(Above) The author speed shooting from the quiver with an Asiatic war bow.

Mounted archery and hunting and the bow hand anchor

Use extra caution if you are on horseback or performing special shots with the bow hand anchor. Shots like the Parthian or Jarmakee have a tendency to confuse your brain when it comes to draw length, due to the atypical positioning of the body. With proper planning and practice, the bow hand anchor can be safely adapted to all of the above, and continue to be vital to your consistency in ensuring you reach full draw and get all the power and range of the bow.

The bow hand anchor can also be used when hunting. You wouldn't want to hinder all the consistency you've built when it matters most: making an ethical, deadly shot. Since you will be using a broadhead, you will need a slightly longer arrow, as it is not safe to use the back of a broadhead as your indicator. If your existing cut arrows are too short, you can also try the outsert suggestion from above.

Warning: Be sure to leave adequate space as not to injure your hand if you accidentally overdraw. This will depend somewhat on the design of the broadhead.

Reevaluating your bow (and arrows) post bow hand anchor

As you experiment with the bow hand anchor over time, it will become clear whether or not your bow is right for you. The dynamic of any bow is such that the more work you get out of the limbs without stressing them, the better it will perform. If you find that your bow's max draw is far longer than your newly-determined draw length, you might want to explore a shorter bow that will be more efficient energy-wise. 

If your bow is struggling to get you to your ideal draw length, whether due to stacking, or to the fact that it simply can't reach that far, you'll need to purchase a new bow when able. The longer you shoot a bow that is incompatible with your draw length, the more likely it is that bad habits will emerge. And be careful to never force a bow too far. It can injure you, or those around you. Investigate new options with an eye toward a max draw that leaves you plenty of room for smooth expansion.

If you do purchase a new bow, make sure to carefully consider what type of bow hand anchor you'll be using before purchasing new arrows.

Is the bow hand anchor a crutch? 

The best way to address this question is to ask: What can I accomplish using a bow hand anchor that I can't accomplish in the absence of one? Without a reference point, it is quite literally impossible for the brain to reach an identical draw length each time you pull the bow back, and we know that a clean release is much less likely if you don't reach full draw with expansion. Because consistency is the foundation for archery, any tool you can use to increase it is going to increase your overall success.

The beauty of the bow hand anchor is that after training with it, it becomes ingrained. The definition of a crutch is that in said crutch's absence, you are hindered. It is the complete opposite in regards to the bow hand anchor. In its absence, you will be more consistent than someone who has never trained with one. This is because the bow hand anchor helps you hone your muscle memory and gives you a far better chance of reaching full draw and achieving a clean release—even if it is not present.

Chinese traditional archery community draw length survey

If at this point in the process you are still having trouble nailing down a draw length, or are just curious about the draw length of other members in the thumb draw community, an analysis was performed by Chinese archery community members Justin Ma, Chris Lee, and Eliza Chung. 

Using data provided by generous volunteers, Justin derived a formula for recommended draw length. Note, however, that this formula applies to archers with a long draw (thumb ring past the ear at full draw), who use a zone-3 anchor (see below picture). If the aforementioned two descriptors don't describe your draw, then the formula should only be used as a very rough guide. It is as follows (measurements are in inches):

W = wingspan (tip of middle finger to tip of middle finger)

S = armspan (from middle of spine to tip of middle finger)

Recommended draw length:

= 0.65 x W - 15 (be within +/- 0.5")

= 1.3 x S - 15 (be within +/- 0.5")

Additional notes

• One other convenient aspect of the bow hand anchor is that the point of contact with the bow hand will almost always be within an inch of the back of the bow, which allows for an easy translation between bow hand anchor and the "draw length" reference most Asiatic bowyers use (the back of the bow). Always check with the bowyer to make sure. Mariner, for instance, uses the belly of the bow as a max draw length reference.

• The use of a bow hand anchor should also make chronograph scores more consistent, as you are eliminating unwanted variables in your draw.

• If you switch bows and encounter a big shift in grip size or brace height, it will affect the bow hand anchor, as the distance from your draw to bow hand will be somewhat altered. In general, the change should be negligible. If you're finding it is crowding your permanent bow hand anchor, or making it harder for you to reach it, you can always try the two options mentioned earlier: an outsert, or longer field points with a thin strip of tape or ring of glue.

Conclusion

Works cited 

• The Way of Archery: A 1637 Chinese Military Training Manual - Tian and Ma - Schiffer Publishing - 2015

• "Reminders on Form and Philosophy": 2018 Chinese Archery Program - Ma, Tian, Bhuphaibool

• “Thinking About Getting An Asiatic Bow?” - Ma and Tian - The "Way of Archery" YouTube channel - 2019

• The Way of Archery website- Ma and Tian - 2019

• Top banner montage image credits: Chris Lee, Haydon Fu, Johnny Au

• All uncredited photos belong to the author.

• All rights of the article reserved to the author.