Figure 1.1 The Funnel Metaphor

Source: Gardetti, Torres 2013

漏斗比喻：为了实现现今时尚市场的可持续问题，可以使用漏斗比喻来表示，假如时尚市场（包括消费者）的消费行为继续以目前的速度增长，它对社会与生态环境的负面影响同时会增加。如此的消费会给时尚市场愈来愈少的时间来处理这些影响 （以漏斗壁的倾斜为标志）。

“The Funnel Metaphor: To visualize the challenge of today’s fashion industry, the funnel metaphor is used to illustrate that if the consumptive behavior of the fashion industry, including consumers, keeps increasing at the current rate, the adverse impacts in society and the ecological environment will also increase. This leads to a progressively limited space for the industry to handle these impacts in the future and to resolve the issues humanity is facing today (symbolized by the sloping walls of the funnel)”( Gardetti, Torres).

如此一来，按照漏斗的比喻，假如不有意碰到漏斗正在缩小的壁，应该重新设计社会中的商业行为（例如时尚市场）。假如可以实现如此的变化 （在时尚市场的商业过程中不会给世界上的环境，人类带来如何危害），恢复到如此的平衡态的可能性很高。

“Using this metaphor we can conclude that if we do not want to ‘hit the narrowing walls of the funnel’, we must redesign the current unstable practices in society, including the fashion industry. This change, if achieved, is likely to result in a gradual equilibrium, where the fashion industry can operate without compromising the health of the Earth and its people” (Gardetti, Torres).

如何使时尚市场变得更可持续？

How Do We Make Fashion Markets More Sustainable?

由于快时尚的全球销量（占全球出口的4%）以及资源密集型的制造过程，如此会造成许多环境方面的问题，例如污染，资源的浪费。由此可见，时尚市场应该如何反对快时尚与计划报废的趋势，而建立一个可持续发展的时尚市场？

“Because of fast fashion’s global consumption (4% of the worlds total exports (Gardetti, Torres), and its resource intensive manufacturing process, this will create a great deal of environmental problems, such as pollution and waste of resources. Thus, how should the fashion industry oppose this trend of fast fashion and planned obsolescence, and instead create a more sustainable fashion industry?”

现今公司如何在解决时尚市场的可持续发展问题？

How are Companies Addressing Sustainability Problems Within the Fashion Market?

供应链管理（SCM）：货物与服务流动的管理，譬如原材料、制品库存、以及成品从起点到消费点的贮存与运输。

Supply Chain Management (SCM): “The management of the flow of goods and services, such as raw materials, product inventory, and finished product storage and transportation from starting point to the point of consumption”(Caniato).

SCM 有两个关键的目标，其一是提升公司的竞争力，其二是追求社会责任。许多国际公司，例如Patagonia 与Northface，本来是举世闻名的，原因在于产品的高度质量。现今，这些公司将高度质量与环保型的概念集合在一起。这意味着它们都通过职业模型与供应链管理的增量变化而变得更环保。

“SCM has two key purposes, the first is to increase the company’s competitiveness, and the second is to pursue social responsibility. Many international companies, such as Patagonia… and Northface, were originally known for their high quality product, however nowadays, they have combined their high quality products with concepts of environmentalism. This means that, through making small changes to their business model and supply chain management, have become more environmental” (Caniato).

举一个例子，90年代时Patagonia决定仅能介绍使用有机棉。

其他的供应链增量变化而变得更环的例子如下：

“For example, in the 90’s Patagonia decided that they would only use organic cotton” (Caniato). Other examples of incremental environmental changes to the supply chain are listed below:

1. 有机纤维的用途 (有机纤维是指培育它来自于的土壤或者动物的标准。另外在种有机纤维过程中亦不能使用有毒的农药，除草剂，或者杀菌剂。此类的纤维囊括有机棉、有机羊毛、木棉、以及丝绸。) 运用上述提出的纤维会减少化工产品的用途、自然资源的匮乏、以及氧化二碳的排放。

“Use of organic fibers（fibers that follow standards that nurture the soil or animal from which they come and do not use toxic insecticides, herbicides or fungicides; examples of organic fibers are organic cotton, organic wool, kapok, and silk) to reduce the collateral effects of chemical products, the scarcity of natural resources, and CO2 emissions” (Caniato).

2. 再利用，再循环旧的材料，例如旧的衣服、生产肥料、瓶子、轮胎等。

“Reuse and recycling of materials such as old clothes, scraps, bottles, and tires” (Caniato).

3. 二手运动

Second hand movement

1. 采用旧的与新的绿色科技、资料

“Use of old and new green technology, information” (Caniato).

1. 绿色认证 ，譬如 Global Organic Textile Standards,、Ecolabel、Global Reporting Initiative (GRI)

“Green Certifications, such as Global Organic Textile Standards、Ecolabel、Global Reporting Initiative (GRI)” (Caniato).

1. 绿色产品与过程设计-应该考虑生产技术、产品特性、以及运用的材料。

“Green product and process design-should consider product design, product characteristics, and materials used” (Caniato).

上述提出的例子与三重底线的概念是一致的。

The examples mentioned above are in line with the concept of the triple bottom line.

三重底线：三重底线的基础是指企业绩效应该被三个主要的角度（经济、环保、以及社会）监测。换句话说，为了采用一个长期计划同时使经济的发展持续社会与环保方面的进步，现今应该制定并实施可持续发展的战略以及深入的了解它对未来人的财富有任何影响。

“The triple bottom line is based on the idea that business performance should be monitored according to three perspectives, namely economic, environmental and social. In other words, to practice sustainable development and address the impact on future generations’ wealth, companies must adopt a long-term horizon and let economic growth sustain social progress and the environment” (Caniato).

有效采用三重底线概念的供应链被称为绿色供应链管理（GSCM）。GSCM意味着在产品设计、材料的来源与选择、制造过程、成品的交付、以及产品使用年后的管理过程中，公司必须采用环保思维。

“The above-mentioned examples are in line with the concept of the triple bottom line. SCMs that effectively use the triple bottom line concept are called green supply chain management (GSCM) 。GSCM means that a company must adopt environmental thinking during the processes of designing, material sourcing and selection, manufacturing, delivering the final product, and management of the product after its useful life” (Caniato).

更深入的分析上述提到的内容：

A More In-depth Analysis of what was Mentioned Above

1. 材料 （某一个组织的减少运用材料与增加运用的再生原料能力)

“Materials (a reporting organization’s ability to reduce material intensity and to use recycled input materials).” (Caniato).

1. 能源 （组织的能源使用，例如直接能耗、能耗来制造外购产品、间接能耗、节约能源、以及制造节能源的产品）

“Energy (organizational energy use, i.e., direct energy consumption to produce products purchased externally, indirect energy consumption, energy saved, and development of energy efficient products)” (Caniato).

1. 水资源 （识别水资源的来源，包括回收与再利用的水，水体如何被组织影响到。此外亦包括组织减少可使用的水量的能力。

“Water, which includes indicators for identifying the water sources (recycled and reused) affected by the organization and reducing the volume of water for available use” (Caniato).

1. 生物多样性 （组织的活动对生物多样性的预防，处理，与修复有任何影响）”Biodiversity (includes indicators related to the prevention, management, and remediation of damage to natural habitats resulting from the organization’s activities) ” (Caniato).

1. 排放物、发射物、废物 （衡量温室气体的直接与间接的排放、排出水的质量与总量、以及废物不同类型的的总量与处理方式）

“Emissions, Effluence, and Waste (includes indicators to measure the level of direct and indirect greenhouse gas emissions, the amount and quality of the water discharged, and the total weight of waste by type and disposal method) ” (Caniato).

产品与服务 （包括评估减少产品与服务对环保负面影响主动性的指标）

“Product and service (includes indicators that assess the existence of initiatives to mitigate the environmental impact of products and services) ” (Caniato).

1. 尊敬条约 （评估不遵守环保法规会造成任何罚款的货币价值以及非货币性制裁）

“Compliance (assesses the monetary value of fines and non-monetary sanctions received for non-compliance with the environmental regulations) ” (Caniato).

1. 交通 （量化物流与配送对环境有任何影响）

“Transportation (quantify the environmental impacts associated with logistics and distribution) ” (Caniato).

1. 业务整合 （包括评价供应商的选择、管理与终止的指标）

“Business Integration (includes indicators that assess policies on supplier selection, management, and termination) ” (Caniato).

Figure 1.3 Timo Rissanan’s No Waste Hoodie

Source: Gardetti, Torres 2013

再循环：升级回收

Reuse: Upcycling

升级回收是指运用旧的材料来制造感知价值、运用、质量等更高的新产品。

“Upcycling is using old materials to create a new product that is perceived to have more value, be more useful, and be of a higher quality” (Villa Todeschini).

BYT (制造升级回收产品的环保型香港时尚品牌)

BYT (ecofriendly Hong Kong Fashion label that that creates upcycled products) (Harilela).

Figure 1.4 BYT Upcycling

Source: Harilela 2017

再利用：Patagonia

在Patagonia的企业模式中有一个三步骤的过程来鼓励消费者再循环或者再利用Patagonia品牌的旧的衣服。此过程如下：

Within Patagonia’s business model, they have incorporated a three-step process to encourage consumers to recycle and reuse old Patagonia clothing. This process is listed below (How Does worn wear work?):

1. 买二手的Patagonia衣服

Buy used Patagonia clothing (How Does worn wear work?)

2.鼓励顾客修被撕破的衣服

Wear it and repair it (How Does worn wear work?)

3.以旧换新: 先在任何Patagonia零售企业区位将旧衣服交换店内的折扣。

“Trade it in: Trade in old clothing at any Patagonia retail location and receive credit to put towards another new or used garment” (How Does worn wear work?).

可持续发展战略的框架：

Framework for Strategic Sustainable Development:

可持续发展战略的框架（FSSD)是指一个特殊的规划工具。（FSSD)的特殊功能是在每个系统中可以使用它来走向可持续发展方向（有使用灵活)。它主要的目标是在

一些会产生复杂问题的方案下可以提供明确性，借鉴，还有结构。

“Framework for Strategic Sustainable Development (FSSD) is a strategic planning tool that can be particularly useful in any given system that aims to move toward sustainability. Its main purpose is to provide clarity, insight and structure in scenarios that present complex problems)” ( Gardetti, Torres).

系统层：在系统层下，多半的慢时尚利益相关者已经被意识到在生态边界内可以进行的操作。许多设计师从事运用有机棉，有机羊毛，木棉，丝绸等环保工作。

此外，在供应链中的各个方面，社会的业务操作意识更强。 一些公司会参与公平贸易倡议、建立合作社以及使用行为守则来善待服装工人。

“Systems Level: In the systems level, most slow fashion stakeholders are already aware of the ecological boundaries in which they can work in. Many designers use organic cotton and wool, modal, silk, and others. There is also a greater social awareness of business operations and their effect on people in all facets of the supply chain. Many companies are having a positive impact by participating in fair trade initiatives, establishing cooperatives, and employing codes of conduct, to secure the fair treatment of fashion workers” (Gardetti, Torres).

成功层: 许多受访者，除了提供可持续发展对他们公司有什么意义之外，也将他们可持续发展的定义跟他们公司的社会与环境目标集合在一起。然而，这些公司没有同样的可持续发展定义，另外也没有任何未来成功的共同愿景。由此而空间，慢时尚运动是一群独立工作的独特项目。

“Success Level: many respondents provided a definition of what sustainability means for their business, and how these definitions incorporated into their environmental and/or social goals. But, the businesses do not share a common definition of sustainability and currently have no common vision of success for the future. Rather, the slow fashion movement is a collection of fragmented initiatives that are working independently” (Gardetti, Torres).

战略层: 因为没有未来共同可持续发展的愿景，因此慢时尚运动不能‘退却’成功。因而很明显慢时尚利益相关者自己与集体的行为无法战略性。此外， 没有证据显示此运动采用一个优先级的方式来确定战略性的行动或者实现可持续发展的长期战略计划。

“Strategy Level: with no shared vision of a sustainable future, the slow fashion movement is not able to ‘backcast’ from success. Consequently, slow fashion players are not being strategic in their individual or collective actions. Additionally, there is no evidence that the movement is using a prioritized approach for determining strategic actions or long-term strategy for attaining sustainability” (Gardetti, Torres).

动作层: 描述由某一个组织或者公司能实际做到的事情来提供全面战略、进而得到成功。时尚品牌与单个设计者已经进行大量的可持续行动：

“Action level: describes what can be tangibly done by one organization or company in a way that supports an overall strategy to attain success. Fashion brands and individual designers are already undertaking numerous sustainability actions:” (Gardetti, Torres).

1.运用环保材料与天然纤维来支持绿色经济。

“Using environmentally friendly materials and natural fibers that support the green economy” (Gardetti, Torres).

2.缩小公司对环境的负面影响，同时管理企业、赚钱。

“Trying to make the smallest impact on the environment while still running a business and making money” (Gardetti, Torres).

3. 提供人与人之间重视时尚的框架来享受它，以及透明地共享在时尚生产与制造过程中的资料。

“Providing a framework and network between people in which fashion is valued and enjoyed and the stories behind the production or manufacturing process are transparent” (Gardetti, Torres).

4.在一个重视公平薪水与灵活工作时间的公司中出品会使人员制造一个质量更高的服装。

“Having garments made in a production house that has fair wages and flexible working hours; this creates a more quality garment” (Gardetti, Torres).

5. 仅应该消费需要的东西，关注每天消费习惯，例如饮食，穿的衣服，卖的产品。这意味着，在某一个公司的日常操作中，应该重视材料，例如植物，办公室用品等的来源。

“The direction everything in our earth needs to go… consuming only what you must, buying what you need, and creating with an awareness that everything we eat, wear, and buy has an impact. In a business, this means being environmentally conscious in all aspects of sourcing, from fabrics, to office supplies, etc. ” (Gardetti, Torres).

工具层： 在时尚设计师与品牌的业务操作中会运用可持续的工具，例如生命周期思想。

Tools Level: designers and brands are using some sustainability tools in their business operations. For example, life-cycle thinking and ecodesign is being used as a tool by a number of designers in the movement” (Gardetti, Torres).