48-Hour Bonding

This is the method we use and have great success with. It is one we highly recommend, although we do understand that others may have success using other methods.

WHY WE RECOMMEND THIS METHOD:

Reduces stress by not forcing the animals to be reintroduced over and over and over again.
Doesn’t force them to start all over in their process, they’re re-establishing themselves every time they are introduced.
Allows them the uninterrupted time to get acquainted rather than separating them in the middle of the process.
WE DO NOT SUPPORT STRESS BONDING

This is not to say that slow and steady, consistent dates, are not successful in bonding. For example, the daily dates, can work but require re-introductions at each meet which can cause these "dates" to last longer than you may have intended, and they should be extended for more time with each meet. For this method of bonding, we suggest having the animals live side-by-side for at least one month prior to introductions to get them familiar with each other's scent and preferably have one shared wall.

BEFORE YOU START...

QUARANTINE:

When bringing any new animal into your home, it is always best to quarantine them for a minimum of 7 days. This allows them time to adjust to a new environment and monitor for any illnesses that could be passed to the other animals in the home. This also gives you time to bond with your new pet

REMINDER: NOT EVERYONE BONDS!

There is a 50% chance that they will not bond. But that does not mean they can or should ever be isolated from others of their species. Some animals just like their space and do best with neighbors rather than cage mates.

BEST PAIRS

BEST DUO FOR CAVIES

Please keep in mind that it is best to introduce a younger pig to an older pig for a higher chance of successful bonding. Older pigs tend to be more territorial or aggressive and harder to find their perfect match. Also keep in mind that once the baby pig reaches maturity, this can also affect their current bond. Unless your pig is sterilized, it is best to keep herds of the same gender. It is not a common practice to sterilized pigs although there are benefits to doing so. This all depends on the individual personalities of the pigs.

BEST DUO FOR RABBITS

Rabbits do not care about breed or size. It all has to do with personality. It’s best to try to pair two that compliment each other, such as one dominant and one docile. This helps reduce aggression and fighting that may occur. It also is often easier to bond a male and a female rather than bonding two of the same gender (unless they are siblings, born and raised together). This is because rabbits are known to “fall in love at first sight” in a sense. All rabbits should be sterilized prior to any bonding, regardless of gender. For successful bonding, it all depends on the individual personalities of the rabbits.

FIVE EASY STEPS

RIOR TO STARTING:

Please be sure to have two appropriately sized enclosures ready in case they do not bond. This is good to have on hand incase their bond breaks or one of them becomes sick and needs to be separated. Allowing both enclosures to be side-by-side can help them still have socialization with one another, and still be neighbors instead of cagemates. Some prefer to have their animals live side by side prior to introducing them, and that is up to you. When looking at adopting an animal, this step may not always be possible because we want to do our best to find their forever home with as little chances of the animal being returned to us due to not bonding.

STEP ONE: NEUTRAL TERRITORY

Create a space, like using a playpen or a different room of the house, to allow them to bond in. Everything in this space should be clean, new, and neutral of any scent. The first 30 mins are the most telling.

STEP TWO: AT LEAST TWO OF EVERYTHING

Provide multiple (at least two) of everything such as hides, hay piles, water bowls, beds, etc. We do not want them fighting over food or shelter.

STEP THREE: LET THEM MEET

Put the two of them into the neutral space. Be sure to have a towel or oven mit ready on hand to use to break up any fights if needed. Do not interfere with them. Many try to pet them or scoot them closer to one another, do your best to be hands off. Let them do this on their own.

STEP FOUR: THE FIRST 24 HOURS

Many can debate about this time set aside to supervise. We like to keep it at 24 hours but the first 48 hours is the best in determining if they are a good match. Always keep an eye on them for the next few days. *It isn’t as common but remember that bonds can still be broken at any time.*

STEP 4.5: INCREASING SPACE (OPTIONAL STEP)

Some choose to start in a smaller space and increase that space as time goes by. This is more recommended for rabbits rather than pigs. The issue with this is that you may increase space too quickly and that can cause them to become territorial. If choosing this route, using an exercise pen that can be easily extended is best. Always allow a few hours to go by before starting to increase their space. Increasing space too quickly often leads to territorial behaviors and fighting.

STEP FIVE: MOVE TO THEIR NEW SPACE

Between 24-48 hours, we transition them to their new clean neutral permanent appropriately sized enclosure. Continue to supervise. Give lots of hay and fresh veggies to help distract them. This is also a good time to start increasing space (typically only adding 1-2 feet more every couple hours). Usually it takes about 1-2 weeks for rabbits to fully be able to free roam after bonding.

NORMAL BONDING BEHAVIORS

Butt sniffing, butt nudging, butt dragging
Chasing
Loud squeaking/cries
Mounting/Humping
Nose face-offs (whoever’s nose is higher wins, one must lower their nose/submit)
Throwing their head back
Rumble strutting (shifting weight from one back leg to the other)
Teeth chattering
Raised hair on the back of the neck/spine
Bites, nipping, hair pulling
Positioning to attack
Head butting
Wide yawning showing teeth
Snorting

signs they're bonded

Grooming one another
Falling asleep together
Eating together
Happy squeaks
Playing together
Mounting without fighting

WHEN TO SEPARATE

The general “rule” we go by, is if blood is shed, separate. When they start fighting with intent to harm (such as tornado fights when they will not release one another), that’s a sign they are not a good match. These balls of fit fights can be very serious. More often than not, people separate too soon which reduces the chances of them bonding. In any relationship, you have to let them have the time to figure things out between themselves. And animals sometimes use (what seems like) aggressive actions to communicate with one another.

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