Buying Guide

a07/06/2020 - AJ Gerrards

Updated: 28/06/2021

If you are in the market for a new warning light there are many many options to choose from.  It all comes down to the vehicle you will be using the beacon with, what kind of brightness output will be required, how much room will be available for installing a beacon, what kind of mounting is preferred and what type of budget you have.

Here is a buying guide I have put together.

The terms "Beacon" and "Beacons" are equally applicable to mini, mid and full-size lightbars throughout this guide unless used to describe a particular product; eg. Britax 320 Series Halogen Rotating Beacon.  For Step 1, the terms "Beacon" and "Beacons" are not applicable for some mid- and all full-size lightbars.

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Step 1, Mounting Type:

Before purchasing a warning light there are factors you will need to address.  The first is how you're mounting preference.  If you are installing a beacon on a sedan, hatchback or wagon then a three bolt fixed or magnetic mount are the most appropriate options not only for design purposes but also for practicality.  Three bolt beacons can be either bolted to a roof rack or directly onto the vehicle's roof.  If you're intending to sell the vehicle in the future without the beacon fitted, then mounting the beacon on a roof rack is the best option so you won't have to repair the roof first.  For a sedan hatchback or wagon, mounting a fixed beacon on a roof rack is still the better option either way.  However, if you're installing a warning light on a utility then you have more options including pole mount.  You can bolt the beacon directly to the vehicle's roof, on a roll bar, mount on a roof rack or purchase a pole mount warning light and install it on the rear of the cab or on a roll bar using an adapter (drilling is still required however).

For vans and SUVs, follow my recommendations for sedans, hatchbacks and wagons.  You can fit pole mount beacons to sedans, hatchbacks, wagons, SUVs and vans, you will just need to purchase a pole mount adapter then install it either on a roof rack or directly onto the roof.  I strongly recommend for these vehicles you purchase roof racks, reason being these roofs were never designed for such mounting of fixed warning lights.  In no way am I stating direct mounting for passenger vehicles is not safe, I just do not recommend it - purely from a re-sale perspective.  For all full-size lightbar installations, I strongly recommend you option the (if available) gutter bracket mounts.  These provide exceptional security without the need to drill (see Step 4 for more information).

If you're installing a warning light on a truck (especially a prime mover) then bolting the beacon directly onto the roof would be the safest option or fitting a fixed beacon onto the door mirror with a suitable adapter.  If you're installing a beacon on a semi-trailer then fixed mount will be the best option.  If there is access to an auxiliary power outlet then a magnetically mounted beacon can be fitted and if there's adequate space then a pole mounted beacon can be fitted with an adapter.  If you're installing a beacon on a tractor than a pole mount beacon would be the best option as most tractors will already have an adapter installed for pole mount beacons.  If you're installing a beacon on construction machinery then all three mounts are a safe option.  You may even install a single bolt beacon if preferred making four possible mountings for construction machinery.  You can purchase adapters for single mount beacons if mounting directly to the vehicle is not possible.

If you choose to purchase a magnetically mounted warning light you will need to decide whether you will leave the beacon on the roof when not required or remove and store inside the vehicle.  Most manufacturers will have tested magnetically mounted beacons to a specific speed (usually 80km/h or 112km/h).  However, there are many manufacturers that state the use of a magnetically mount warning device on a moving vehicle is at the sole responsibility of the user even by manufacturers that have already speed-tested a specific beacon.  Most warning lights without a speed rating can still achieve high speeds such as 100km/h.  The best way to test the strength of the magnet/s and/or vacuum pad of a beacon without a speed rating is to place the beacon on the vehicle's roof (referring to a sedan or hatchback) and gently rock the beacon backwards and forwards without moving the beacon.  If the car rocks with the rocking motion of the beacon then that is a sign the magnet/s and/or vacuum pad have a strong adhesion and most likely be able to achieve speeds above 80km/h.  If the beacon moves around or removes from the roof with small signs of adhering when gently rocking the beacon, precaution should be taken when using the it on a moving vehicle on or above 80km/h.

Step 2, Brightness:

Brightness is a key factor when choosing a warning light.  If you are using the beacon for emergency vehicles or with live traffic (eg. Wide Load Pilot Car) then an SAE J845 Class 1 Approved warning light is the safest option.  SAE J845 Class 1 is the highest brightness rating but with a low standard meaning there are some beacons on the market that exceed the Class 1 specification. 

SAE J845 Class 2 is the second brightest approval.  Class 2 warning lights can be fitted to vehicles operating with live traffic (excluding emergency vehicles).  However, Class 1 is safer if used with live traffic but Class 2 can be a good alternative.  SAE J845 Class 3 should only be used indoors (eg. Inside a factory or warehouse on a forklift). 

SAE J845 Class 3 should never be fitted to a vehicle operating with live traffic (even at night) as you will not be seen safety.  Not every warning light on the market has been SAE J845 approved especially cheaper unbranded products.  Furthermore, a warning light may achieve a certain SAE J845 certified brightness without carrying a certification.  Something to keep in mind is that a manufacturer may offer one model in two brightness variants.  A cheaper Class 2 approved variant and a more expensive Class 1 certified variant.

Step 3, Warning Colour:

This section is based heavily on what type of application you are working for.  This may vary in each state so check with the authorities in your state before purchasing a colour that isn't Amber, White or Amber/White.  When selecting the required colour with an LED Beacon, you may be able to choose from a coloured lens to match the output colour or a clear lens to remain more covert when not in use.  Also - especially common with halogen and xenon beacons - if you work in varying applications, you may purchase one coloured beacon and be able to purchase a different-coloured lens as a spare part.  Furthermore, many manufacturers also offer dual or tri-colour combinations for some of their warning lights.  In some states you may need to obtain an approval to fix warning lights to your vehicle regardless of colour.  In New South Wales the requirements are as follows below:

Published 24 November 2010.

Note: The term 'flashing light(s)' used herein is equally applicable to rotating light(s).

In addition to the information below, the Roads and Traffic Authority (RTA) may approve any type of vehicle to be fitted with a beacon that emits a specified colour.

Blue or Blue and Red:  

• Police Vehicles;

• Ambulances used solely by the Ambulance Service of NSW as defined under the Health Services Act 1997 or a vehicle authorised by the Ambulance Service of NSW under its delegated authority;

• Operational Fire Brigade vehicles and accredited NSW Rural Fire Service vehicles;

• A vehicle used by a Traffic Commander or a Traffic Emergency Patroller appointed or employed by the RTA;

• State Emergency Service vehicles;

• Vehicles used by an accredited rescue unit as defined in the State Emergency and Rescue Management Act 1989.

The use of blue, or blue and red flashing lights is intended to advise other road users that the vehicle displaying them is responding to an emergency situation.  They may only be used when the vehicle is being used for police operational functions or urgent purposes arising from an accident, fire or other emergency.

Red: In addition to the vehicles listed above, red flashing lights must only be fitted to: 

• Red Cross vehicles used for the conveyance of blood for urgent transfusions;

• Mines rescue vehicles;

• Other rescue vehicles;

• Other emergency vehicles not referenced above that are driven by an emergency worker in the course of their duties, where an 'emergency worker' is a person (or one of a class of persons) approved by the RTA.

A red flashing light warns road users of the presence of a vehicle associated with a risk-to-life situation.  It must only be used when the vehicle is being used for urgent purposes arising from an accident, fire or other emergency.

Green: A green flashing light warns road users of the presence of a:

• Stationary operational fire brigade;

• Accredited NSW Rural Fire Service;

• Ambulance or police emergency site command vehicle.

They should not be operated whilst a vehicle is in motion.  These display a red, or red and blue flashing light as applicable whilst in motion (see above).

Magenta/crimson: A magenta/crimson flashing light warns road users of the presence of an:

• RTA enforcement vehicle or a vehicle used by a local council officer engaged in monitoring or measuring the weight of heavy vehicles.

Amber/yellow: An amber or yellow flashing light warns road users of an obstruction to the free flow of traffic.  Amber/yellow flashing lights may be fitted to vehicles which operate in hazardous situations, and must only be used when the vehicle is standing in a hazardous position or in moving in hazardous circumstances.  The light does not have to be removed when the vehicle operates in non-hazardous situations but it must not flash.  Examples of vehicles which can be fitted with amber/yellow flashing lights are:

• Tow trucks.  Motor breakdown service vehicles;

• Public utility service vehicles (eg street sweepers, garbage trucks and elevating platforms);

• Special purpose vehicles, such as mobile cranes which exceed dimension limits;

• Vehicles frequently used to transport loads that exceed maximum length, width or height limits (under permit or notice);

• Escort vehicles for large, over dimension vehicles;

• Milk delivery vehicles required to stop frequently;

• Buses used for the conveyance of children to or from school;

• Private security vehicles;

• Volunteer vehicles not accredited by the State Rescue Board;

• Council Ranger by-law officers;

In addition, street vending vehicles, such as ice cream vans or other food vending vehicles, must display a flashing amber light whilst stopped for the purpose of serving customers.  Audible and visual indicators must be fitted to inform the driver that the light is flashing.  The light must begin to flash within one second of being switched on and continue to flash at a rate not less than 60 times per minute.

There is no need to obtain approval from the RTA to fit amber/yellow flashing lights to vehicles.  The use of amber/yellow flashing lights, does not give any priority over other traffic not does it permit the contravention of the Regulation of the [NSW] Road Rules 2008 (the NSWRR).

Step 4, Type of Warning Light:

This step depends of what kind of vehicle you will be mounting a beacon onto and what type of output you require.  If you're fixing a beacon to a sedan or hatchback then you can choose from the following six different types: Perimeter Light, Dash Light, Beacon, Mini Lightbar, Mid-Size Lightbar and Full-Size Lightbar.  The third and fourth options can be fixed or magnetically mounted.  Some Mid-Size Lightbars are available as a magnetic mount alongside a fixed mount whereas Full-Size Lightbars are available in a range of fixed mount only options and can be either bolted directly onto the vehicle's roof or using gutter clamps.  With gutter clamps there are no speed ratings or cautions you will need to be concerned about, gutter clamps are safe at high speeds and is what's used to mount Full-Size Lightbars on many police cars.

If you prefer to fix covert light/s instead of external beacon/s you can select a Dash Light or Perimeter Light.  All Dash Lights can be mounted either with suction cups to the vehicle's windscreen or fixed directly onto the vehicle's dashboard with screws.  Some Dash Lights (particularly from US brands) feature a magnetic mount option.  Most Perimeter Lights can be fixed with screws or using 3M tape with both mounts considered permanent.  Perimeter Lights can be fixed to the vehicle's front grille or bumper bar, internally in side windows or rear windows (including hatchbacks) or to the inside rim of a vehicle's bootlid.

If you are planning to achieve maximum visibility and/or brightness then you may fix a combination of the six types.  If you're fixing a beacon to an SUV or utility please see above as essentially the same options apply.   If you're fixing a beacon to a truck you can choose from the four types of beacons.  If you are fixing a beacon to a prime mover then you can select from any of the four types (depending on your cab type).  If you have a truck or prime mover fitted with a wind deflector in which the only place to fix a beacon is on the deflector then a Beacon, Mini Lightbar or Mid-Size Lightbar mounted on a bracket will be the safest options.  If you have a flat roofed truck or prime mover or a truck or prime mover fitted with a wind deflector with space in front of the deflector to fix a beacon then you can choose from any of the four types.  Dash Lights and Perimeter Lights can be fitted to trucks (including prime movers) just as easily as a sedans or hatchbacks.  For Dash Lights follow the same procedure for a sedan or hatchback.  Perimeter Lights can be fitted to truck grilles just as easily as passenger cars.  Some tree chipper tipper trucks are fitted with Perimeter Lights.

If you are fixing a beacon to a semi-trailer then a Beacon or Perimeter Light will be the best option.  If you are fixing a beacon to a tractor or construction machinery then a Beacon or Mini Lightbar will be the best option.  However if you require a pole mounted beacon, a Beacon is your only option.  Furthermore, if the tractor or machinery has adequate space on the front and/or rear of the vehicle then you may fix Perimeter Light/s instead of/with a Beacon or Mini Lightbar fixed to the roof to maximise overall visibility.

Step 5, Voltage:

Aside from the output colour, input voltage is the most critical aspect when selecting a warning light.  All passenger cars (sedans, hatchbacks, SUVs, wagons) are fitted with 12 volt auxiliary power outlets (more commonly knows as cigarette lighters).  Most trucks and construction machinery (including prime movers) are fitted with 12 volt auxiliary power outlets.  However, I highly recommend checking your vehicle's auxiliary outlet voltage before purchasing a warning light.  Most beacons (of all types - Halogen (without bulb), LED and Xenon) are 12/24V dual voltage meaning they can be powered off 12 or 24 volts.  Some Xenon beacon can achieve higher voltages than LED or Halogen.  The Xenon Narva Microburst Single Flash Beacon for example, can be powered from anywhere between 12 and 80 volts whereas the LED Narva Microburst Single Flash Beacon can only be powered from between 12 and 48 volts.

Step 6, Output Module/s:

If you are purchasing a warning light without any basic knowledge, you will quickly realise there is more than one type of output module.  The four most common types are; Halogen, Xenon, Incandescent and LED.  Before I put forward some advice for you, I will provide a short briefing on each module type.  Halogen's use for emergency vehicle lighting has been around since the first warning light was introduced around the 1930s making it the oldest output module.  Xenon strobe lights first entered the market in the 1970s with LED strobe lights following in the early 2000s.  Simulated LED rotating warning lights started being introduced from the mid to late-2000s.  Incandescent strobe lights are basically - and sometimes referred to as - halogen strobe lights.

Since its introduction to the emergency vehicle lighting sector, Halogen has remained the best-selling output module for many decades.  Following the rapid development of LED warning lights; halogen, incandescent and xenon modules have since become old technology and are becoming discontinued left, right and centre by some manufacturers.  Federal Signal for example, once a pioneer for their halogen and xenon products, has recently become an LED only brand.

When deciding what output module to purchase, it really comes down to your preference.  Do you want something maintenance-free for the entirety of it's lifespan?  Do you want something mechanical?  Do you want something simulated?  Do you want something that can be seen for miles?  Are you prepared to service it (replace bulbs, transmission belts etc)?  Or do you just want something basic to keep you safe?  All these questions can easily be linked to the correct type of output module.  Let's start at the top and work downwards.

• Do you want a maintenance-free purchase?  Then a simulated or mechanical LED beacon is the perfect solution.  If an LED beacon is not suitable for you, an incandescent or xenon beacon is the next option.  While they are not completely maintenance-free, they require less maintenance over halogen rotating beacons.  But incandescent and xenon beacons are restricted to SAE J845 Class 2 and Class 3 certifications meaning they cannot be used for applications requiring an SAE J845 Class 1 certification.

• Do you want something mechanical?  Then a halogen or LED rotating beacon is what you need.  Many manufacturers do not test halogen rotating beacons to SAE J845 certifications but ones with H1 55W or 70W bulbs can achieve Class 1-like output (refer to Step 7 for more information).  I personally recommend halogen rotating over LED rotating beacons mainly due to the expensive price tags of LED rotators and unquestionable beams of light 12V 55W or 24V 70W halogen rotating beacons provide.  I have conducted a comparison between the two rotators, with the halogen rotator taking out the win.  The majority of LED rotating beacons use magnetic- or direct-driven transmissions making them maintenance-free.  Halogen rotating beacons can cut down on maintenance with the use of worm- or direct-driven transmissions.

• Do you want something simulated?  Then incandescent, xenon or LED beacons are the answer.  Yes, incandescent and xenon strobe beacons are not entirely simulated but they are in terms of operation as they do not require moving parts.  But with the aforementioned restriction to SAE J845 certifications strobe beacons encounter, LED beacons provide the user with more options especially for applications requiring SAE J845 Class 1 certification.  If SAE Class 1 certifications are not required, I would recommend an incandescent or xenon beacon.  I am in no way against LED beacons - they are fantastic in almost every way.  I personally just prefer xenon and halogen beacons and want to encourage buyers to purchase them before the emergency vehicle lighting industry becomes LED only (much like the car industry is becoming automatic transmissions-only).

• Do you want something that can be seen for miles?  Purchase a 12V 55W or 24V 70W halogen rotating beacon.

• Are you prepared to service the beacon you purchase?  If so, purchase a halogen rotating, xenon or incandescent strobe beacon.  Maintenance intervals are largely based on the amount of usage the beacon receives.  This can range from months to years with some parts lasting longer than others.  For halogen rotating beacons with belt-driven transmissions, both the bulb and transmission belt require replacement.  For halogen rotating beacons with worm- or direct-driven transmissions, only the bulb will require replacing.  Xenon and incandescent strobe beacons will only require flashtube or bulb replacement.  I should also mention that some manufacturers install belt-driven transmissions to LED rotating beacons as a cost-saving measure, meaning that not all are entirely maintenance-free.

• Do you just want something basic to keep you safe?  If this matches your description, then purchase a base-model LED beacon and receive the benefits of "fit and forget" technology.  I currently have not tested any base-model LED beacons but I could recommend products such as the LED Autolamps 128 Series SAE J845 Class 2 certified beacon or 144 Series SAE J845 Class 1 certified beacon, Narva Eurotech SAE J845 Class 1 and 2 certified beacons, Narva Guardian beacons, Narva Microburst beacons, ECCO 7460 Profile Series SAE J845 Class 1 certified beacon, Hella RotaLED and RotaLED Compact beacons and Roadvision RB130 Series.  There are tons more I could recommend untested purely based on the manufacturer's reputation for ultra-reliable products.  Most of these products I have recommended will come in at under AUD$250 - a perfect amount to invest in a truly reliable LED beacon.  Plus, if you ask us to guide you on the right track towards your next beacon, I will 110% guarantee you are paying the correct price.

Step 7, Wattage:

Selecting wattage is really only applicable for halogen and xenon beacons.  LED beacons are usually a fixed wattage beacon.  A manufacturer may offer an LED beacon in different wattage outputs to present the customer choice with certain applications.  For halogen and xenon beacons, a lower wattage means a lower level of brightness and a higher wattage means a higher level of brightness.  A 55 watt or 70 watt halogen rotating beacon will produce an SAE J845 Class 1 brightness - with or without an SAE J845 certification.  A 21 watt halogen rotating beacon will produce an output similar to an SAE J845 Class 2 brightness.  Anything lower will produce an output similar to an SAE J845 Class 3 brightness.  Xenon beacons, for example, a two watt beacon is designed for off-road use whilst a six watt beacon is more versatile and can be used for a broader range of applications.  With LED products, a 96 watt beacon can produce the same SAE J845 Class 1 certified brightness as a 25 watt beacon.  For example, the Britax BF900 Series LED Strobe/Rotating Beacons are fitted with 16 six watt LEDs (96 watt total) that produce an SAE J845 Class 1 Certified output while the Britax BF1000 Series LED Rotating Beacons are fitted with one high intensity 25 watt LED which also produces an SAE J845 Class 1 Certified output.

Here are links examples of 21 watt and 55 watt halogen beacons:

12 Volt 21 Watt Halogen Rotating Beacon: 12 Volt 21 Watt 

12 Volt 55 Watt Halogen Rotating Beacon: 12 Volt 55 Watt 

Step 8, Price:

Price plays a vital role in the warning lighting sector.  When purchasing an inexpensive warning light, a lower price usually means less quality.  If the beacon is going to be used infrequently I would still recommend purchasing a branded product.  A good quality long lasting beacon I can recommend is the Narva Optimax.  While utilising Halogen technology, the Optimax is still a robust and long lasting product, available in four mounting options and four colour options.  If LED technology is preferred I can recommend a Narva Pulse.  The Narva Pulse is extremely robust, available in two models, two mounting options* and three colour options.  I would (where possible) try to avoid inexpensive unbranded warning lights found on eBay which come straight from the factory in China.  These beacons are produced by the thousand using inexpensive materials and may last a few months (maybe a year or two) but overtime they will breakdown (particularly the LEDs).

I am not saying spend $1500 on a full-size LED lightbar, I am saying purchase a product that will sustain the test of time.  A Narva Optimax (P/N: 85650A) Three Bolt Mount Amber Halogen Rotating Beacon costs around $80 while a Narva Pulse (P/N: 85246A) Three Bolt Mount Amber LED Strobe/Rotating Beacon costs around $270.

*The Narva Pulse is offered in two models.  A standard two-flash pattern coloured lens model and a high-output eight-flash pattern clear lens model.  The standard model is offered with a magnetic base or a three bolt mount base whilst the high-output model is offered with a three bolt mount base or a DIN pole mount base.  A magnetic mount was available for the high-output model however this option has been discontinued.

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I will caution you with a regard to all Hella LED Products.  Hella do not provide an estimated operational lifespan for any of their LED products and when questioned about it with a 10,000 hour (1.1 year) operational lifespan found on a website they said 10,000 seemed quite fair.  So I caution you not to expect a Hella RotaLED to last as long as a (for example) Roadvision RB165 Series which (as with all Roadvision LED products) has a claimed estimated 100,000 hour (11.4 year) operational lifespan.

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Here are some of my suggested warning lights by type*:

Beacon - Halogen: Narva Optimax, ECCO 5800 Series, Narva Hi Optics 'Baby', Patlite KJB, Sacex Taurus, Hella KL700, LAP LAP223,

Beacon - Xenon: Narva Microburst,

Beacon - Simulated LED: Roadvision RB165 Series,

Beacon - LED Rotating: ECCO EB7800 Series,

Minibar - Halogen: Narva Euromax, Britax 420 Series,

Minibar - Xenon:

Minibar - Simulated LED:

Minibar - LED Rotating:

*Only products that pass StrobeAdvice's reviewing criteria will be added to the suggested list.  If a category is empty, this means no products in that particular category have been tested by StrobeAdvice or a product from that category failed to pass our reviewing criteria.

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