Goechala (March, 2021)

How We Hiked Goechala in Three Days (And How You Could Do It As Well)

‘Goechala’ or  ‘Goecha La' is the only hike in Indian Himalayas that can bring you as close as possible to one of the fourteen eight-thousanders without actually climbing it. No wonder this is one of the most popular hiking trails in India. Although the name of the hike suggests a pass-crossing trail, it has never been so. Previously, people could reach up to the Goecha Pass (4,960m), but now, one can only reach up to Viewpoint 1 (4,500m). The trail starts from the tiny village of Yuksom (1,170m) in West Sikkim, situated at an elevation of 1,780m above sea level, and within 32 kms, the trail leads to Viewpoint 1, nestled in the lap of India's highest peak, Mt. Kanchenjunga (8,586m) – the furthest one can reach these days. 

In this blog, I'll share our story of hiking Goechala in three days. From the beginning, I'd like to share the purpose of this blog. It's not about our achievements; it's about why and how we did it, and how you can also start thinking about doing something similar. Additionally, I will have the opportunity to share my motivation (or madness, whatever you may call it) behind the particular style of hiking I am (or we are) trying, and its benefits to the local people. All the distances and altitudes in this blog are from the GPS-based app maps.me. Sometimes, these measurements are inconsistent with the locals, but I believe them to be more accurate than relying on verbal sources.

Why Goechala ?

After so many unsuccessful attempts at planning a hike to Sandakphu since my college days, I finally got the opportunity to reach there last January. Despite visiting Darjeeling and Gangtok several times, I had never been able to catch a glimpse of the mighty Kanchenjunga until then. It was only on my hiking day to Sandakphu, when I saw it for the first time from just above Dhotrey. The next morning, witnessing the sun rising on the Sleeping Buddha range from Sandakphu, I couldn't shake the desire to see Kanchenjunga from an even closer vantage point.

My Motivation Towards the Kind of Hiking We Did

I have always found solace in the peaceful silence of nature. Exploring places independently fills me with immense joy and a sense of freedom that is unparalleled. I thrive on challenges and embrace adventure wholeheartedly. The idea of having others carry my belongings for my comfort has always made me uncomfortable. In my view, carrying the necessary gear and supplies is an integral part of hiking and mountaineering. I prefer to train myself and build the strength required to conquer the trails, rather than relying on a support team to cater to my comfort. Yes, this approach may have its limitations, but I am willing to accept them. There may be dreams I have to leave untouched if I can't adequately prepare for them, but I find contentment in the path I have chosen to follow.

Preparations

Preparing for the hike was undoubtedly the most crucial aspect of our journey. In my view, studying the routes is just as vital as mental and physical preparations, especially when undertaking an independent hike. Initially, Sourav had crafted a tentative itinerary, but upon scrutinizing the route, I made some modifications and strategically placed our longest day towards the end of the hike. This decision bestowed several advantages upon us. It allowed us more time to acclimatize, ensured that our longest day mostly involved descending, and after the most challenging leg of our hike, we would be able to rest in the comfort of a warm bed in Yuksom instead of settling for a cold sleeping bag in a tea house.

Our physical preparations varied between Sourav and me. Sourav had the opportunity to expose himself to higher elevations regularly, spending around a week at higher altitudes every month. Consequently, he could rely on maintaining or even improving his fitness through long-distance workouts once a week. On the other hand, I had to train entirely at sea level, requiring a more systematic approach. Acclimatization was crucial, as it necessitated increased oxygen supply to our lungs and heart. Red blood cells (RBC) act as carriers of oxygen in our bodies, so increasing the RBC count would aid in acclimatizing faster (although this doesn't entirely eliminate the risk of altitude sickness; it simply provides more chances for successful acclimatization).

Increasing RBC count can be achieved through various methods without resorting to supplementation, but each approach requires a considerable amount of time – usually six to eight months at the very least. Fortunately, I had been training since November, preparing for my first full marathon. Prior to that, I had already completed training for and running a half marathon, so my RBC levels were already on the rise. After addressing this aspect, I focused primarily on event-specific training. Completing the hike within three days required us to descend almost 2800m in a single day after reaching VP1, which would place tremendous stress on my legs. To prepare adequately, I incorporated heavy-weight lunges, squats, and calf workouts (approximately 30 to 35 kg) into my routine twice a week for the remaining two and a half months, in addition to my running, core, and weight training sessions.

Although our initial plan was to complete the hike in four days, both Sourav and I mentally and physically prepared ourselves to finish it in three days. We embraced the challenge and dedicated ourselves to conquering the trail, driven by our passion for adventure and a determination to succeed.

Packing

My packing strategy was relatively simple, focused on ensuring warmth and necessary essentials. I relied primarily on my down jacket for insulation, complemented by a rain/windproof outer layer. Additionally, I packed a few t-shirts and hiking trousers, microspikes for added traction on challenging terrain, a poncho to shield against rain, and essential sleeping gear such as a sleeping bag and mattress.

As we set off early in the season, there was uncertainty regarding the availability of supplies at Thangsing, so I carried enough food for a day. To facilitate cooking and eating, I packed utensils and a butane stove. My rucksack, with two liters of water, weighed approximately 12 kilograms. To divide the load evenly between us, we split common items such as food, utensils, and butane. Sourav carried an additional two kilograms of filming gear to document our journey.

With our minimalist approach to packing, we aimed to strike a balance between carrying necessary equipment and maintaining a manageable weight for a challenging hike like Goechala.

Finally, around 2:15 pm, we reached Tshoka and sat down for a well-deserved lunch. The afternoon provided an opportunity to explore the serene surroundings, as we strolled around the nearby pond, reveling in the beauty of the meadows and indulging in conversations about the wonders of life.

As the evening approached, we had dinner around 7 pm and retired early to rest and rejuvenate for the adventures that lay ahead.

Consulting the map, the trail from Phedong to Kokchurung appeared relatively straightforward with only 150m of elevation gain spread across 6.5 kilometers. Our estimation was that it should not take more than two hours, and we aimed to reach Kokchurung by noon to cook our lunch. However, this section of the hike turned out to be the most challenging and frustrating part of our journey. We encountered continuous uphill sections followed by short downhill stretches on snow patches every 15 minutes, disrupting our rhythm entirely. It took us nearly three hours to reach the Kokchurung river, where we heard the sound of the flowing water before catching a glimpse of the infamous Kokchurung bungalow. We quickly realized that this section would pose the most significant challenge for our descent back to Yuksom/Tshoka on the following day.

Inside the Kokchurung bungalow, we cooked Maggi for our lunch and met a group of kids from Delhi who faced altitude issues and had to abandon their hike to Goechala. The cooking, eating, and cleaning process took about 50 minutes, after which we resumed our journey. The trail passed over a temporary wooden bridge (more aptly described as a 'log') on the Kokchurung river, followed by a 15-minute walk on the riverbed before ascending once again. Although the trail to Thangsing (3,950m) was relatively short, we began to feel the strain of the steep ascent, covering 250m over 2 kilometers, a reminder of the thin air at higher elevations. The new route to Thangsing involved negotiating some small, steep, and loose rocky bouldering sections, and we relied on our guide's assistance.

Finally, around 3:15 pm, we reached Thangsing, where Mt. Pandim (6,691m) was unfortunately obscured by clouds. Nevertheless, we were delighted to hear that the hut had recently opened for fooding, sparing us the need to cook and clean our utensils in the freezing sub-zero temperatures. After our arrival, we savored a cup of hot and sugary tea. With our down jackets on, we gathered near the caretaker's room/kitchen to stay warm by the fire. Later, we were served hot rice, dal, aloo bhaja (potato fry), and papar for dinner around 6 pm, and we proudly devoured two plates each.

Around 6:30 pm, we filled our water bottles and retired early to ensure a good night's sleep before embarking on the longest day of our hike at midnight. Despite not experiencing any altitude-related symptoms throughout the journey, I struggled with sleeping issues. My sleep was disrupted by woodworms at Tshoka the previous night, and tonight was no different. After trying to sleep for an hour, I noticed my heart rate was elevated, measuring 105 bpm. Nervously, I reached out to my doctor partner, Sourav, to discuss the issue. He assured me that he was also experiencing a heart rate of over 100 bpm, though I couldn't be certain if it was genuine concern or just an attempt to comfort me. However, within a couple of hours, our heart rates stabilized at around 80 bpm. Sourav had explained to me earlier how acclimatization works, and I came to understand that my controlled slowdown in heart rate was a sign that my body had begun acclimatizing to the higher altitude ( if any doctor reader finds a flaw in this logic, it's obviously an error on the part of my doctor partner 😎 ). 

As the night progressed, I recalled my previous midnight attempt at Pangarchulla, which I couldn't complete due to lack of sleep. However, I reminded myself that since then, I had made significant improvements in my strength, stamina, and mental toughness. With this reassurance, I finally fell asleep sometime after 10 pm, determined to tackle the challenges that awaited us on the longest day of our hike.

Day 3

We woke up 30 minutes earlier than our scheduled time due to Sourav's mobile alarm buzzing prematurely. I took a brief nap for 30 minutes and finally woke up at 1:30 am. Using our portable butane stove, we prepared hot coffee and milk-cornflakes for breakfast. After finishing our meal, we made more coffee for the journey to VP1. Setting out at 2:40 am with another couple and their guide, we encountered cloudy skies, dampening my hopes of seeing Kanchenjunga. Despite the weather, we proceeded, crossing several streams along the way. During one of the crossings, I slipped, but our guide swiftly rescued me from wet shoes by taking the fall himself. We continued, and at around 3:40 am, we reached Lamuney (4,175m) where the sky cleared, revealing a breathtaking view of Mt. Pandim under the full moon and dazzling stars.

As we moved forward, we encountered the frozen Samiti lake in the dark, which left us awestruck. The adrenaline fueled our progress, although we were well aware of the thin air at these altitudes. Having gained almost 2,600m in the past two days, we still had a 200m climb ahead. The sun began to rise, and the snow-capped peaks revealed themselves at twilight. Reaching VP1 at 5:39 am, we were treated to one of the most magnificent sunrises at Mt. Kanchenjunga, surrounded by other majestic peaks like Kabru range and Mt. Pandim.

After savoring the moment, we began our descent, embarking on the true challenge of the day. We needed to hike back the 32 km trail from Yuksom, which we had accomplished in two days and three hours, all in a single day. Soon, we reached the mesmerizing Samiti lake, which was almost frozen. We took some pictures and continued with our descent. The trek to Thangsing went smoothly, and we reached there around 8 am, ahead of our estimated schedule. We packed our backpacks, had breakfast, and gave away any remaining food to the tea house caretaker to lighten our load.

Moving on at 9:05 am, we arrived at Kokchurung within 40 minutes. The trail between Kokchurung and Phedang proved to be the most challenging part of our hike, particularly for me. I began to feel fatigued, slowing down and losing mental toughness. Occasional snow and rainfall added to the difficulty. After a grueling three hours of hiking, we finally reached Phedang, where I took a 15-minute rest, replenished my water, and had the remaining half of my snicker.

Around 1 pm, we started the descent to Tshoka. Surprisingly, I felt a surge of energy, possibly due to the snack or the belief that we were ahead of our schedule. With renewed vigor, I maintained a steady pace on the downhill trail. Just before reaching Tshoka, I saw Sourav slip, and my mind raced with worry about his previous knee injury. Fortunately, he assured me it was fine. After that, I moved ahead to Tshoka to order food for us.

We left Tshoka at 3 pm, hoping to reach Yuksom by 7 pm. We reached Bakhim within half an hour, but soon I noticed Sourav struggling, especially on the downhill due to his knee injury. As darkness fell, we relied on our headlamps to guide us. Despite the challenging conditions, we remained confident in our guide and the well-marked trail. Eventually, at 8:30 pm, we arrived in Yuksom, one and a half hours later than our estimate. The journey from Tshoka had taken its toll on our tired legs. Thankfully, Hotel Pradhan welcomed us with warm food and comfortable rooms. Finally, we could rest our exhausted legs in a cozy, warm bed, with no worries left behind.

If you would like to watch Sourav's vlog on our hike, then click here.