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"Fix a Delta washerless faucet," you ask? "But they almost never go wrong. And aren't there a whole bunch of doohickeys and thingamajigs in there? I don't want to break anything." Well, yes, Delta faucets are pretty reliable all in all. But if you use them long enough they will start to drip. And yes, there are a few parts inside. But no, there aren't "a whole bunch," and no, you won't break anything. Not if you're careful and follow these instructions.

Tools you will need:

Set of Allen wrenches

Channel lock pliers

Needle nose pliers

Step 1: Turn off the hot and cold water.

The shut-off valves are typically located under the sink. Remember, it's "righty tighty, lefty loose-y."

Step 2: Remove the Red/Blue button.

Your fingernails should suffice.


If you're afraid of damaging your nails or have bitten then down to nubs, try prying the button out with something that has a rigid thin edge. A paring knife perhaps.

Step 3: Loosen the set screw with your Allen wrench.

Loosen the screw, but don't remove it.


The wrench pictured is a 3mm. Most of these faucet assemblies are standardized, so the set screw in yours will probably be a 3mm too.

Step 4: Remove the handle.

Step 5: Remove the cap.

This one doesn't, but some models have a separate adjusting ring that screws into the top of the cap. You could remove each separately if you want, but removing the cap will remove the ring as well.

Step 6: Remove the cam and packing.

The cam is that white thing. The packing is the rubber gasket underneath it.

Step 7: Remove the ball assembly.

You'll notice there's some water inside the faucet assembly. Don't worry about that, it's normal. You're fine as long as water isn't spraying all over the kitchen or wherever you have your faucet.

Step 8: Remove the worn out spring & seat.

Delta calls the rubber cap thingie a "seat." Who knows why.


Most likely the seat you replace will be the one controlling the hot water inlet. The one on the cold water inlet almost never wears out.

Step 9: Obtain a new spring & seat.

Hardware stores such as Ace, Home Depot, Lowe's, or Menards should have them. You probably won't need as many as are in the pictured package unless you're servicing a lot of faucets. If you're servicing a lot of faucets, you probably don't need this guide.

Step 10: Insert the new spring & seat.

Seats can be a little tricky because they're flared slightly at the open end. You may try putting in the spring first, then the seat on top of it, or putting in both together. Doing both together is usually more effective.

Step 11: Replace the ball assembly.

Note the slot on the ball and the pin sticking out of the wall of the faucet housing. You must fit the one to the other or the faucet won't work.

Step 12: Replace the cam & packing.

Note the tooth on the cam and the slot on the faucet housing. The one must fit into the other.

Step 13: Replace the cap.

Tighten it enough so that it is secure, but not so much that the ball assembly won't move.

Step 14: Replace the handle.

Then tighten the set screw, pop in the Red/Blue button, and turn the hot and cold water back on. You're done!



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