Singularity Box Print and Assembly Guide

First up grab the files from the Singularity Games Shop: Coming Soon. In the meantime, patrons can grab the files from the Singularity Games Patron Drive.

There you find five folders, one for the chest, one for the drawer, one for the double drawer, one for the different singularity boxes,and one for accessories.

Printing and Assembling the Chest and Drawers

Printing the Chest and Drawers

Assembling the Chest

Assembling the Drawers

Assembling the Double Drawer

Printing and Assembling the Singularity Boxes

Printing the Singularity Boxes

Printing and Assembling the Chest and Drawers

Printing the Chest and Drawers

Once you've grabbed the files from the Singularity Games Shop, you'll want to open up the folders for the Chest, drawer, and double drawer.

In each folder you will find all of the files needed for each assembly. In parthenogenesis in the file names you'll see listed how many units to print for each part.

Alternatively, you will also find a BambuMaker project file for the plates and connectors in their correct numbers for each assembly.

I've test printed everything in PLA with a standard 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height.

Alternate configurations: click here to see changes in print numbers for alternate configurations of the chest.

Plates and Connectors:

The chest and drawers are all made up of plates and connectors that snap into each with a little nub on the inside of the connectors and a hole in the corners of the plates. Everything should snap together with minimal force and should hold together securely with just a little wiggle.

Some printing tips:

While I haven't tested other materials printing in something with better layer adhesion than PLA could result in a more robust unit.
The files are prepositioned in the correct printing orientation when you import them. Use a brim and make sure you have good bed adhesion. Their orientation limits the need for supports and lets you print more pieces on a single plate.

Printing the Plates

For the plates, you will need to use support material. A brim also helps with bed adhesion. You only need support material on the bottom two corners and the supports should detaches cleanly and easily. The files are designed so that the seam should mostly align in the centers of the plates. If you find that the seam is aligning at the corners of the plates (where they fit into the connectors) you may find that they don't snap into the connectors cleanly.

Printing the Connectors

For the connectors you do NOT need supports. The files are oriented corrector when you import them. For some connectors this means limited contact surface with the bed and as such a brim will help with bed adhesion. You will want to make sure the brim is removed before assembly as it could interfere the the connections.

Assembling the Chest

I tried my best to not need glue, however there are two parts that will need to be glued together.

Otherwise, once you have all of the parts printed it's just a mater of snapping the whole thing together.

Shown here is the default configuration, using the print counts in the file names. For alternate configurations, click here to see changes in print numbers and assembly.

Gluing the back 2-part connectors:

Two of the back connectors will list a "Part one" and a "Part 2" in the file name. For those pieces you will need to first glue the two parts together to create the final connector piece.

The Back Connector 7-Way Part 1 and Part 2 files.

You will also need to glue the he Back Connector 8-Way part together in the same fusion.

You'll see they have a groove that will fit the two parts together and keep them in place when gluing.

Add glue to the groove and place the other piece into it. Let it dry and you're good to go.

Once, you've glued the necessary back connectors, gather all of your printed pieces for the chest.

The whole chest is made up of plates and connectors that snap into each with a little nub on the inside of the connectors and a hole in the corners of the plates. Everything should snap together with minimal force and should hold together securely with just a little wiggle.

Start by assembling the back by snapping the back plates and connectors together. Were going to build the whole thing off of this.

For the standard configuration, the back should end up looking like this when assembled. Notice how the bottom two-thirds are split in half, while the upper third is not.

We will then snap in the floor plates and the wall plates. The floor plates are the larger of the two and represent the "floors (and ceiling)" of the chest when turned upright. Meanwhile the walls are smaller.

Once the first layer of floor and wall plates are in place, it should look like this.

Then we need to add the middles connectors which is where we will snap in the next layer of floor and wall plates.

Then snap on the final layer of floor and wall plates.

Lastly, we will snap on the "front" connectors. You can then lift the whole thing up, rotate it towards you and you have a completed chest.

Assembling the Drawers

The drawers will go together much the same way as the chest, using plates and connectors. The front and back plates have a groove in the top to slide your fingers into and a space to put a label if desired.

Gather all of the printed parts for the drawer.

Assmble the floor plates along with the corner and middle-bottom connectors.

Then snap on the wall plates to the sides and the front and back plates to the front and back. The front and back plate is the same file, but the spot for a label should be facing outward.

Then snap on the remaining upper connectors and Middle-top connectors.

While not strictly pessary, when filled with boxes and game components there is a lot of strain on the middle connectors of the drawers so...

I recommend putting some glue on this connection to make it more robust.

Assembling the Double Drawer

The double drawer is assembled much the same as the chest and drawer.

Be careful not to mix up the "Front and Back Connectors" and the "Wall Connectors." The "Front and Back Connectors" are the longer of the two and the "Wall Connectors" are the shorter.

Start by assembling the floor plates with the appropriate connectors. Again be sure to use the "Front and Back Connectors" at the front and back and the "Wall Connectors" at the sides.

Add the wall, front, and back plates followed by the upper connectors. You'll want to make sure you align the front and back plate "A and B" so that they create the finger groove.

Also be careful not to mix up the "Front and Back Upper Connector" and the "Wall Upper Connector."

Like the drawer, I recommend gluing the upper connectors to give them a little extra strength.

There you go. Now you have a fully assembled double drawer.

Slide it in to the chest and admire a well done job. NOW get to work resembling the three other drawers.

Printing and Assembling the Singularity Boxes

Printing the Singularity Boxes

The design does not require supports to print. The lids are pressure fit and print separately from the base box. This means that no additional hardware is required and there are no tricky mechanisms to print, however it may be worth printing one of the deck boxes first to check your printers tolerances. I typically print the boxes using common "default" settings of 0.2 mm layer height and a 0.4mm nozzle for the nicest finish, however I have also test printed them at a 0.3mm layer height and a 0.6mm nozzle for a faster print.

Page updated

Google Sites

Report abuse